Brian_Heil
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Posts posted by Brian_Heil
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Not mine
Was asked to post
Low miles
https://raucherbrothersauctioneers.hibid.com/catalog/303403/cernak-buick-online-liquidation-auction/
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Only one version of 6 cylinder offered in 1923.
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Happy Birthday Mabel!
I found an envelope with a name and address on it in my 1923 with an early 1980s post mark
I contacted the person early in my ownership ~1997 and they sent a large envelope of pictures of the car unrestored in the late 1970s he had taken. He and the car were in the Boston area then. He owned it for a short period
Who did the cosmetic restoration after him is a mystery. He had no info on who he sold it to or bought it from.
The car ended up in a Kruse auction cosmetically restored and the gentleman I bought it from in New Hampshire got it at the auction or from a flipper who got it at the auction. Anyway, Kruse said they woukd not do searches of auction history.
The car still sports it’s unique radiator ornament and a Manhattan NY Buick dealer etched plate with 4 digit phone numbers and contact information on the front passenger toe board. I believe the plate to be original to the car.
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On 8/3/2021 at 8:30 PM, gward1211 said:
Perhaps I didn't explain it well. Double shuffling going up a hill is fine and I can generally do it without a crash. However, already travelling slow in top gear, by the time I double shuffle into 2nd, the forward motion has almost stopped and is too slow for second (a pretty steep hill). This is not a flywheel problem.
The other situation I encounter is when going up a not so steep hill at higher revs in a low gear, when the time comes and you think you can change up, in waiting for the engine to slow down to get into a higher gear, a lot of the speed has washed off and becomes too slow for the higher gear. This is the flywheel problem I had in mind when I asked about lightening the flywheel.
Kind regards
Geoff
Anticipate the vehicle’s response and downshift sooner. Problem solved.
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On the list I plan to give them.
Thx
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Helping a friend of a friend’s widow.
Gentleman in Nebraska sent his S/G out for a rebuild and then passed away.
Family looking for leads as to shops he may have sent it to, to track it down.
Any and all names of shops that he may have sent it to appreciated. The family will do the leg work if they have the business names.
By any chance if someone has a 1916 S/G available, they would be interested in that also.
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A modern electric starter and ring gear is possible on the 165 cu in engine with 2 spd trans
Here are pics of the setup on my 1911 Model 33 which is the same powertrain as your Model 10.
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21 hours ago, Dj59 said:
Are there any mechanical adjustments to the brush linkage?
Just the axial position of the large diameter tapered nose lift pin.
3rd brush position rationally for amount of charge desired.
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I'm here, been on vacation.
Correct, silent clutch new for 1923, no sprag to click
Does it charge when running is first question?
Most often when there is an issue with no motoring, it is a problem with the charging brushes or dirty commutator. And as such it won't motor nor will it charge, hence my question.
If not charging when running also, push down on the brushes with a pencil or similar device to increase brush contact pressure and note change in charging rate if any. If it increases, you have worn brushes that are too short to allow the spring to apply enough pressure or dirty commutator.
If no change, check for dirty contacts on the back of the combination switch as noted above.
Commutator and switch contact points should all be bright.
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When the Wife catches you using the dining room table for a work bench, you won’t have to buy any hides, she’ll tan yours.
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Is the starter motoring, in the case of a 1920, clicking, when you turn on the ignition but before you depress the starter pedal?
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Someone got a nice car.
Jim, please pass along my contact info to the new owner.
Happy to help.
Thx!
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A safe practice every Spring before first run is to ‘tunk’ all the tops of rocker valve ends with a nylon hammer to make sure none of the valves froze on you over the off season.
I’m not sure why, but caged valve Buick’s have a propensity to seize after prolonged storage.
When you do your valve job, add lifesaver sized felt washers to each valve stem. Buick did this from the factory the last year for caged valves, 1923. McMaster Carr carries an assortment. You will have to soak them in oil to get them to stretch over the stem. Lube them often.
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The foot section cut off a pair of the wife’s old pantyhose captured by the clamp in the upper radiator hose is a cheap easy way to capture junk. Easy and effective. You will be amazed what’s traveling around in your system. They sell an expensive filter that has too large a mesh. Try this.
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Do a compression check before you tear things down. It’s a very durable engine. You may not find all that much out of order.
Clean the pan and oil pump, rebuild the valve cages, inspect and set the bearings and you could be good to go.
Watch, count and record your shims on the main and rod caps.
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I went online just now and read all the current BOD bio candidate articles. Funny thing, election promises….
39+ years of working with the finest men and women you could imagine at Buick Product Engineering. That’s my datum and that’s my Buick expectation.
This one did make me chuckle. Be careful what you wish for as my Mother used to say.
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You are all set.
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Put your coping saw with a fresh blade in your vice and hold the material in your hand.
If you have a small hobby band saw better yet.
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Nitrophyl is the material.
Carves up, files and sands very easy. It’s a high tech closed cell dense foam impervious to modern fuels.
All your favorite old car parts houses sell it in a block ready for you to whittle away. ~$6.
I did my 1923 2 years ago and probably 20 years too late. Great results.
Give yourself enough clearance to the carb bowl wall. On my first attempt mine was hanging up.
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Gunk = Trummer
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My first thought is are we distantly related? Ha.
My expertise ends at 1923 but there are others here who are very knowledgeable.
My only suggestion while you are waiting is to backwards flush the radiator and also backwards flush the block and see what comes out. Do the flushing separately so you don’t send gunk from one to the other. Here in the US we use a garden hose. Assume you have the same available?
Once both are flushed and hopefully you get lots of gunk out and before you reconnect the hoses. Plug the bottom radiator outlet with a rag and fill the radiator with water to the top. Leave the cap off.
Remove the plugging rag. You should get a very large exit stream as big as the outlet and maybe a 1/4 meter long flowing out. If so, this would suggest the radiator is not plugged up and all the tubes in it or at least most are flowing. A good thing.
Please keep us posted.
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Jeeps used a canister for decades after WWII. All of the major Jeep outlets carry a nice one with the filter cartridge still readily available
https://walcks4wd.com/search.asp?keyword=Oil+filter+
I’ve dealt with Walck’s for years. Good folks. They sell the decals for the filter housing also.
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Is the timing advancing with RPM? As in are the advance weights free and lubed, springs hooked up and everything under the breaker plate is doing its job?
Jazz the throttle with the timing light hooked up and confirm it advances ~30 degrees and returns.
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1922 Model 37 @ Auction - Massachusetts
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
Lots of dealer type items in the same auction.