Brian_Heil
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Posts posted by Brian_Heil
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Agree.
Open up that right side rear mount that also has a gear set and small one-way clutch in there and clean things out. Mine was full of nasty old hard grease.
Also the small arm on the passenger side end of the cross car shaft starter linkage has a set screw to adjust when the small arm engages the SG. You can change this position to see if that helps.
Also make sure the bull nosed large pin ~1 inch diameter that goes in and out of the SG that lifts the brushes can stick if not lubed.
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Is your starter motoring (spinning slowly) before you attempt to push down when you flip on the ignition?
If not motoring, the gears won’t line up and engage and the pedal won’t go down
Most common cause is worn brushes causing S/G not to motor and often not show a charge either when running. The three small brushes on the smaller diameter commutator. Next is weak springs holding these brushes against the commutator or a dirty commutator. Commutator should be bright copper.
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Scratch that.
Not sure why and it makes no sense but both designs have the same part number.
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Is Part Number 33754 (the second impeller) in any of the parts books indicating is was released for production?
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There is delta P Terry W or there would be no flow.
Don’t confuse system pressure as in a closed system with delta pressure created by the pump which in turn creates flow.
I spent half of 1983 designing and testing impellers for the Buick 3.0L which carried over into the 3800. The impeller looked very similar to the top drawing you shared.
Has anyone seen an impeller in a Buick like the second drawing? I have not. Perhaps it was a drawing for a prototype tested and then rejected?
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I have a dash light available also. Missing the hood but the rest is there.
PM me if interested.
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On any NOS set of points you are thinking of buying, do a careful inspection of the fiber rubbing block and small rivets.
Every set I looked at, at Hershey a year ago were cracked and the fiber material was breaking down due to age in this area. You almost need a jewelers loupe.
This was the failure mode of my points 20+ years ago. I built up the sides of the fiber rubbing block with JB weld. Still doing fine all these years and 40,000+ miles later.
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1 hour ago, jscheib said:
The whole float system takes a beating on a trailer ride when the bowl is dry and the float and pin have nothing to dampen the ride.
Brian, As they say, Buicks were meant for driving, as you know.
John
JohnBelieve you were around for part of my 1485 mile road trip around Lake Michigan. My 1923 Buick never missed a beat.
I do own a trailer for my 1911.
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1 hour ago, dibarlaw said:
Ed:
I agree with the above having redone my 1925 Buick Marvel Carb floats with Nitrophyl materials. Cork coated as the above photos show make it much heavier. In many cases the coating of airplane "Dope" is much thinner and did not impact the weight much.
New nitrophyl float on the right.
When the previous owner of my 1925 Master tried to redo the gas gage float this is what he did.
Coated a larger cork and held it on with a NM wire cable staple. It weighed 3X as much as what the original cork example on the left. It sank like a stone!
The nitrophyl replacement I used. Snyders Ford parts. Only a couple of dollars and matched the original size.
!00% Agree with Larry D and did the exact same just this summer to my 1923 Marvel Back to running perfect.
Watch for the float rubbing / hanging up on the wall of the bowl.
The whole float system takes a beating on a trailer ride when the bowl is dry and the float and pin have nothing to dampen the ride.
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Ha, we're all from the same Gang.
When I got my car years ago the SW speedo came in a cigar box, in pieces. I spent many a night that Winter with a TV table tray in my lap to catch parts figuring out how it went together. Made three stripped gear teeth and a big chunk of the body out of JB Weld. It still works. Not very quiet. The dog leash that runs it is a hoot.
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I did an identical installation as Hugh 24 years ago in my 1923 Model 45.
Is it perfect. No.
But I will take the deceleration provided by a seatbelt bolted to a wood body with backing plate reinforcements to zero deceleration and energy absorption/dissipation of air.
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On 10/11/2020 at 8:40 AM, Larry Schramm said:
I would agree with the '20-'21 model year. It is a 6 cylinder model 45.
Not enough hood louvers to be a Model 45 / 6 cylinder. Therefore Model 35 4 cylinder.
Agree on year 21 or 22. Not a 23 based on headlamp bucket. Drum headlights in 23 which these are not.
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Per the book 70 Years of Buick, your car was $1175 new and weighs 2575#
7004 produced
Note that very few 1923 6 cylinder Buick parts fit the 4 cylinder models or vice versa. The parts may look close but it’s like everything on your car is 70% the size of the part on the six. Body, chassis etc.
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Double the second number and subtract that from the first to get rim diameter
31 - 8 = 23 inch rims
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With the higher coolant operating temperatures allowed by the Evans I would be concerned with the resultant higher operating temperature of the engine oil and as a result, the reduced oil film operating thicknesses and some high stress/load area failing within the engine . I would also be concerned with fuel management issues of vapor lock and or fuel boiling in the carburetor or fuel delivery system near the hotter engine.
Mercury boils at 674F ( I had to look that up). There are applications in research where it is actually used as a coolant is why I mention it.
But one I did not have to look up is the boiling point of gasoline at atmospheric pressure. 185F.
Good luck.
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If the brushes are worn too far the brush arm can contact the other commutator and cause a short. Also check for cracked and or missing round insulator on the brush arm fork. Common issue as the insulator material breaks down with age.
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Assume the cutting fluid being mentioned is the water soluble type.
What is it’s boiling point of the solution and at what mixture percentages?
Does the water just boil off at 212F?
Does the cutting fluid boil off at a lower temperature?
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I found that the trunk lid seal from a modern car makes a great windshield to cowl seal. It even has the feature to clamp on the proud edge of the cowl on my 1923.
$2 at the bone yard.
Trim length to fit. Nice fat bulb cross section.
Been running mine for 20+ years.
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Nytrophyl and be done.
Carbking is the first person I have heard say he had an issue.
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From the 1923 Sales Book for all 1923 Models.
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Easier to find a miss the closer you are to the ‘event’. After the muffler, it’s more difficult.
Was it used? I doubt it. The plug is near impossible to remove after a very short time of use. I find a miss shorting out cylinders and finding the cylinder where shorting it makes no change.
You mention above ‘factory option’. Doesn't the factory install factory options and the dealer install dealer options? And, I thought all closed cars came standard with the rear in floor exhaust heater. I read that somewhere too.
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From my 1923 Reference Book (Owners Manual).
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23 Buick Starter pedal
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
The starter pedal itself can need lube as it goes through a collar near the floor and the cross shaft has two pillow blocks that need lube too.