abelincoln
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Posts posted by abelincoln
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Did she tell you what the dyno results were? 200 HP? Interesting parts collection.
Abe
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I've done this for a couple of OD equipped vehicles (Fords). You just wire a switch in parallel with the governor. Beware of trap. With the switch on, car will stay in overdrive, and you won't be able to shift into reverse. I also made a momentary switch to kickdown OD, but you need two sets of contacts for all the wires. I used a double pole relay for one, that worked but took a lot of wiring.
Abe
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I've had entire new leaf springs made for other vehicles, look for a "spring company" locally.
Abe
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I took mine off years ago, and haven't looked back. Roads nowdays are better than in 30's and 40's. Much better view of engine without them
Abe
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Wanta sell? My Lincoln mounts came off in two pieces.
Thanks, Abe 503-709-9123
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We pray for your prompt recovery and retention of ability to drive Lincolns. Good luck with the overdrive.
Abe
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Don't know if will work, but some early pick-ups and Volkswagens use hinge mount mirrors that poke up taller. I can't see my 48 LC right mirror no matter which way I bend. Maybe two cameras, one on the rear, and one on the RH mirror could work. Mounting a screen would also be a challenge. Maybe you could hinge the radio grill to flip up and reveal a screen. I'd like to see someone fab a goose neck to mount on the hinge and bend up to where you might actually see the mirror. Would look more like original.
Abe
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Can't see why it would make a difference in alignment, but your ride to the line-up-shop will be a lot nicer,
Abe
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The majority of problems are with electrical, go find a good schematic. Gear noise is more worrisome. Have you checked gear oil level in both transmission and in the overdrive? Does the noise happen when you manually lockout with the lever under the dash? If you short out the governor at the fire wall, you should hear a clunk when the solenoid engages. Is your fuse blown?
Abe
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Use a 2 Lb residual valve to the line to the front brakes if your car has disk brakes, to keep pads close to rotor, especially since the master cylinder is low under the floor. If you have original drum brakes, don't worry about it.
Abe
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I've used Tony Neisz, "Flathead Doctor", Flatheads Forever, N Russell St. in Portland, OR. Really knows Lincoln distributors, and even makes electronic ignition conversions. www.philbingroup.com.
Abe
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Most auto parts stores will have a kit to check for exhaust gas in water. I got mine from NAPA. Do you see bubbles? Is there any water in the oil? Good Luck.
Abe
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Did you check vacuum? fluctuating could indicate bad valve. I've "fixed" similar noise in flathead 6 with a can of STP. Ran for quite a while after.
Abe
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If your test meter is like mine, you'll find a couple ohms resistance in the leads. Never gets to zero.
Abe
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You can pull the fill plug on the passenger's side of the tranny. If oil doesn't run out, put you finger in the hole to feel if wet. If not, add 80-90 gear oil. Better check the seperate OD fill plug on the tailshaft while you are at it.
Abe
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There was a 32 ford with Lincoln engine in Hot Rod a few years ago, had fuel injection in throttle bodies and a crank trigger, no distributer needed. Depending on which computer you use, you could put an engine position sensor where the distributer used to be. Should get a much hotter spark with no cross fire on terminal plates.
Abe
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Yes, for positie ground, connect + side of DC volt meter to ground, - side to one of the low voltage terminals where wires from OD relay and capacitor are connected, start engine, read voltage. Since the points go between open circuit, 6 volts, and ground when closed the average will be a bit under 3 volts if everything is working. Repeat for other side.
Abe
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Solenoid won't care about polarity, positive or negative ground will work OK. The later 56 on 12 solenoids won't fit, they have a shorter shaft, I tried. The 42-48 solenoids seem to be a special unit, and hard to find, so be careful with yours. The later 12 volt OD relays don't have the extra kickdown relays that you need to light the lamp in the speedometer when the OD is in. I suppose you could use an external relay to switch the light.
Abe
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Check the running voltage at the coil input. (Be carefule of fingers in the fan). Should be a bit less than three volts. If one side is 6 volts, or 0 volts, you have a problem on that side. Check all the above. I had a broken spring on one set of points did the same thing.
Abe
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The Ford push button looks about the same if you need a new one. Also check the wire between the solonoid and the pb.
Abe
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I took the solonoid apart and seperated the holding coil from the larger pick-up coil. My logic was that the pick-up coil is heavy enough and is only operated for a short period of time and should handle 12 volts just fine. I'm using a resistor with the holding coil to limit current. I also put a resistor on the relay on the fire wall, but I'm not sure if this is necessary. Governor and kick down switches should handle 12 volts just fine. Haven't got it running yet, but I think this should work.
Abe
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OK, I think I figured it out. If you plot the firing angles as vectors, you will see that there is a 75 degree spread between 1 and 2, 3 and 4, etc. Wonder how long it took the Lincoln engine folks to come up with this. pretty ingenious I think.
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After more than a year of re-assembly, I'm now looking at how the 48 V-12 fires. The engine is 75 degrees between banks, and the crankshaft throws connect rods common from both sides. In the owner's manual, firing order is 1-4-9-8-5-2-11-10-3-6-7-12. The dual point distributor has points that look to be 90 degrees apart. So the right, even numbered bank would be delayed by 45 crankshaft degrees. The distributor has a cam that connects two coils each with three cylinders, a timing break due to unequal spacing for the next three. Thus each side of the distributor fires three plugs on one side, then three on the other side.
I've been told firing angles are 0-45-120-165-240-285-360-405-480-525-600-645 degrees. So cylinder one fires at 0, no. 4 at 45 deg, no. 9 at 75 deg later, etc. So it seems to me that cylinder no 2 should fire at some multiple of 75 degrees, but seems to be 15 degrees early. What am I missing? Those Leyland engineers who came when Ford purchased Lincoln were pretty cleaver in 1935.
Thanks
Abe
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If you should happen to have a block that is dry inside, (mine was quite oily and gritty), I'd give consideration to using a cutting torch on springs and valves. You can find a couple YouTube videos on how to do it for flathead Fords.
Abe
V-12 od wiring to manual
in V12 Lincolns Only
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You might want to just lock out with handle for show, judges won't drive. You need a schematic to chase wires and check voltages. There is a Borg Warner manual which I don't have. But I found a repro Ford, Lincoln, Mercury Service Manual 1942-1948 on e-bay that has a schematic. If you put 6 volts on the solenoid, use a big wire. The main coil takes lots of current, but drops out right a way and a holding coil takes over. Make sure both trans and OD have gear oil.
Abe