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abelincoln

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Posts posted by abelincoln

  1. I got a fuse box from a boat supply place, has a nice cover and fits up on the inside of the driver's cowl area. Then I found an ignition switch from a 60's Econoline that could be matched to the Lincoln door key. However, reconnecting the accessories means adding to the stock harness, and unless you are careful leads to a mess of wires.

    Abe

  2. I recall that you are correct, some of the kits available let you get your own rotors from a Ford truck. Check with Speedway Motors, Jegs, Summit Racing, etc, or just google kits for Ford car. You'll need a two chamber master cylinder with an under floor power booster, and likely a proportioning valve between front and back. Again, Ford stuff should work. If you do the installation, let us know.

    Abe

    Hi:I believe that the front disc brake spindle from approx. the 70s ford P/U should fit the Lincoln.I think have seen that somewhere on here!They even have the same bolt pattern and I did check the part number for the king pins is the same for the early 70s ford P/u and the 48 Lincoln!Any body that has done this conversion I know there is a conversion but have seen a price far out of my budget these spindles are common in most junk yards!Any ideas??Thanks!
  3. Well, I'm finally pulling the 48 LC V-12 engine for R&R and need to dissect the transmission too, to locate the source of the piece of synchro ring found in the bottom when changing fluid.

    Can the engine and OD trannie be pulled as one unit, or would it be better to remove and later install separately?

    Any other advice?

    Thanks

    Abe

  4. The stock starter solenoid, at least on my 48, picks up when you put a ground on the terminal, as from the starter button. If you got a newer Ford solenoid, they work by putting voltage on the solenoid small terminal. Is your wiring good between the stater switch and the solenoid, does the starter switch connect to ground, and is your solenoid a grounding one or a voltage one? I used a small relay to activate the newer Ford solenoid. Is yours for 12 volts?

    Abe

  5. If you have the time, but not the money, a trip to the local U-Pull-It might yield a back seat of similar dimensions you could take the springs from and put in the Lincoln seat frame. If you are having an upholster do the job, he could fix the springs while he is at it.

    Abe

  6. I was looking at a model A conversion to a BW 5 speed the other day. They just bought an adapter to the Ford bellhousing, (Lincoln is the same as Ford), made a couple brackets to connect new radius rods from the rear to the frame cross-member, put in an adapter on the rear end for open driveshaft, and everything works fine. I see no reason why you couldn't use any transmission desired that an aftermarket adapter will fit, 5-6 speed auto if you want. New radius rods shouldn't be difficult to buy or fabricate for Lincoln. Ididit and others make steering columns with auto shift if you don't want a floor shifter. Depending on the transmission chosen, you can locate a rear mount on a bracket also connected to the frame crossover.

    Abe

  7. I don't know much about the old blocks, except that they were heavy. However, a competent engine shop should have some sort of sonic tester, or maybe you could rent one. This should give you an idea of how thick walls are, and how much machining they could take.

    Abe

  8. You didn't say, but one would suspect the transmission was changed as well, and that you now have an open driveshaft and different rear end with parallel springs. Keep an eye for basket case chassis for parts.

    Abe

  9. If at all possible, fuss with it until it runs, even if poorly. You'll be inspired to finish the project, and have an idea of some of things needed. I'd wager you need a distributor rebuild, carb and fuel pump rebuild, all new fluids, and gas tank and line flush.

    Abe

  10. Don't know if it would fit the hole, but 56 Ford was the one year where 12 volt gauges were used before they went to the vibrating voltage reducer in 57 on. 56 sensors were kinda large if I remember. The sensor is basically a variable resistor, maybe you'll be lucky and the 12 volt gauge will read with a 6 volt sensor.

    The stock gauge will work fine at 12 volt if you use a voltage reducer. The later model 57 on sensors had a smaller thread, so you might also find a plumbing adapter to fit the Lincoln hole.

    Abe

    Thanks!

    I should have mentioned (and yes I am kicking myself at times like this) that my system was upgraded to 12V. Is there a 12V version of the sensor? My gauges are now 12V.

    Thanks,

    Scott

  11. I converted 6 volts to 12 volts for electronic ignition, 12 volt top motor, and other accessories and found a schematic online at vintageoutogarage.com for a voltage regulator which I built with components from Fry's electronics. Works fine on the gauges, but I think a 57-up mechanical regulator would also work fine. If you get the vintageauto schematic, use an e-mail address you don't mind getting lots of junk e-mail to.

    Worst problem was threading the wire through the ammeter the other way for the negative ground. I'm keeping the original harness, wires are heaver gauge than found in 12 volt cars. You also need to reverse the capacitors in the radio for negative ground and put a resistor in series. I also put a resistor in series with the overdrive hold coil, but am not sure this is required.

    Abe

  12. I was thinking I could offer you the garage my wife's car is in if you wanted to stop overnight in Portland, OR, but she says get a car cover. You could tie the cords of the cover with a cable and lock. Some of the downtown hotels (Hilton) have underground valet parking that should be secure. I've left all manner of vintage iron out overnight in my residential driveway away from the street without incident, and you are welcome to use.

    Abe

  13. Looks like you have two states to try, maybe one is more cooperative than the other? If you managed to register properly in one state, you could transfer to the other. You might also be concerned as to what number is on your insurance policy. I can't recommend any, but there are a few companies that will make a classic title for you as well.

    Since you have gone 20 years, you could probably drive another 20 years without hassle from the authorities. Or if you decide to sell, let the next guy worry about it.

    Abe

  14. Harry:

    If you can't find the floor sheet metal, someone with modest tin bending skills could fabricate a replacement, its mostly flat.

    I put Red's Headers on my V-12, and had a local muffler shop bend the pipes. Leave room for clutch travel. I used turbo mufflers in the stock location behind the X member, but you could use quieter ones and not be louder than stock. Mine sound fine, even though I only have 10 good cylinders.

    Abe

  15. Pulled the 48 LC out of the garage for the first time this season. Lots of bumps from 30 year old tires, but it starts and runs smooth. Speedometer jumps around like crazy, I assume it needs a re-lube.

    Simple question: Does the cable pull from the conduit from the top, or from the bottom? (I'm assuming it will come out.)

    Thanks,

    Abe

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