abelincoln
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Posts posted by abelincoln
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I just finished pulling a set of Pertronix 7mm wires through the conduits, and didn't really have much trouble. I put the tubes on a couple of boxes with the ends hanging over, set a stool by the boxes so I could sit down, and looked at the terminal plates to tell me which wire should go where. No. 11, and 12 are the longest and cross over to the other side in the bridge conduit. I worked from the back, just pushing wires to the terminal plates. I then put the tubes on the engine to adjust the plug end, and took the tubes with wires back to the boxes and cut the wires, put on end terminals which I had to shorten, and pulgged in to the terminal plates. Don't forget to label each wire as you push through. The Pertronix wires are supposed to be good for 45,000 volts, and should handle a dual MSD set up with Blaster coils even with the metal conduits. I bought an 8 cylinder universal set and ordered four extra leads.
I still need to pull wires for the generator, points, and temp gage sender, so I can't tell how well it will work, but it looks good so far.
Abe
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Sounds like 6 of 12 cylinders to me also. Remember, each set of points fires cylinders on both banks, so you many have pulled two plug wires from the same set of points. You can measure the voltage at the points, just look out for the fan. Should be 3-4 volts on each set when engine is running. You may need to remove distributor to check points. If points are fine, check coil, and make sure brushes are touching.
Abe
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I've seen the stock coils rebuilt for 12 volts, but not for the 3-400 volts MSD puts out. Search the Lincoln forums for "coil adapter plate" for info and source. Should be able to hide new coils down low somewhere where they are not obvious.
Abe
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I haven't done any of this yet, but on my list is:
- A melling oil pump (maybe someone knows model)
- new aluminum pistons and rings to replace iron pistons
- one piece valve guides from an 8BA flathead motor
- PCV Valve for blowby control
- Coil replacement with a plate, see archives. Then use 7mm Pertronix wires and MSD 6A ignition (need two) with Blaster coils. All Ford flatheads benefit from hotter spark. You may need a 6-12 volt converter to run.
Beyond this you can get headers from Red's Headers (I have a pair, looks nice), new 4 bbl intake, go wild, use a FAST no program fuel injection that fits 4 bbl intake. The cam can be reground for solid lifters, but you'll need to remove intake to adjust. Set distributor for max advance. Distributorless ignition is possible, but quite involved. Maybe you could talk SCAT into making a stroker crankshaft. Aluminum heads are available, but pricey. Maybe someone knows what the optimum amount for milling the heads is.
Abe
Abe
- A melling oil pump (maybe someone knows model)
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You can measure the voltage at the points when the engine is running, just look out for the fan! If they are not similar, 3 volts or so, one set of points is stuck open or closed. I had a NOS distributor, and one set was stuck. My local auto parts dealer had a small points file which solved the problem.
Abe
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I've always heard that the PCV should be hooked up to carburetor vacuum, not manifold vacuum. You want the crankcase gasses to enter the intake at higher engine speeds, not at idle. But if its working, why change?
Abe
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Seems like gas evaporates over time and returns to crude oil. Mine smelled evil as well. Fortunately, I found an older radiator shop in Portland willing to tackle the tank. They said it took them several passes with their cleanser stuff. Hopefully you can just blow out the lines with air.
Abe
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I usually use Vaseline to keep the rollers in place. Sticky stuff that easily dissolves in trans oil later.
Abe
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My NAPA dealer has tractor fluid by the gallon. No problems so far in the Lincoln, spills are less messy too.
Abe
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I've puzzled about the firing order as well. The engine is 75 degrees between cylinder banks, so it must be an odd fire. However, the distributor rotors are evenly spaced. The crankshaft is cleverly constructed so that each set of points directs spark to three cylinders on one bank and three cylinders on the other bank. So, what we have is two even fire V-6's on the same crank, offset by 75degrees. Is this correct?
Abe
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I've had good luck just replacing the synchro rings to solve popping our of second when decelerating. However, if the edges of the gears are worn, this won't solve the problem either. If you have to replace the cluster gear, might think about just living with the problem. Don't know why pre war gears would be better than post-war.
Abe
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Unless you need an original part no. for show purposes, most cities of any size will have commercial hydraulic hose companies who will make up a hose, just take your old one in for size and fittings. I've used three of them in Portland.
Abe
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I've taken apart several later model BW OD's, and there was a pawl that moved into place when the transmission was shifted into reverse that prevents overdrive use. I put in a switch to bypass the governor so I could avoid free wheeling at low speeds, but then the tranny wouldn't shift into reverse with the switch on. I have been in Low - OD, but the engine really revs. Haven't had the early OD apart yet, but I suppose the day will come...
Abe
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There really isn't a lock-out switch. Lock-out is accomplished by a lever attached by cable to a dash mounted pull out. You can get a Ford -Lincoln-Mercury repair manual on e-bay or several document sources. The manual has a diagram for the overdrive. I recall seeing a button on the top with two wires on mine that might be an interlock you don't need. There is also a governor that won't let the OD engage until about 20-25 mph, and a kick down solenoid for shifting.
Abe
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Thanks, guys. Now I know what to shop for, and a source of where to shop! This forum is great!
Abe
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My V-12 plug wires are looking pretty sad, although the engine ran remarkably well for the condition of the wires. I'm assuming I'll need to buy a bulk length and make up individual wires with new terminals to replace. Anyone know the approximate total length to buy for all 12 wires? Kind of looks like we have two offset, even fire V-6's on a common crankshaft for an odd fire V-12.
Thanks
Abe
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Several years ago I got a tube of "steering gear grease" from the Ford dealer, used in late 60's manual boxes. Seemed to work fine in my old 65 Mustang with a leaky box. (long gone.)
Abe
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Seems like you would need to add a hole and hose connection in the carburetor spacer. Connect the hose to the suction side of a PCV valve. You could then use the pipe between the manifold and the oil bath air cleaner to hook up the crankcase end of a PCV valve.
The question I have, is with 12 tiny pistons, is there more or less vacuum than with 8 larger ones of an approximately 292 V-8? This would help with selection of the proper size PCV valve.
Sludge seems to be a problem with the V-12. I get a lot of blowby out the oil fill tube, smells bad too. A proper PCV valve should relieve these problems. One of the new replacement 4-barrel manifolds would make it easier, as you could find a stock late model spacer set up for a PCV connection.
Abe
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Well, I finally did it. The only way I could come up with for both an air conditioning pump and a power steering pump for the 48 V-12 was to add a serpentine belt. I had Auto Specialties in Texas (877-928-8678) make new crankshaft and water pump pulleys. I then had Flying Dutchman pumps in Grants Pass, OR (541-597-4057) rebuild the water pumps with reversed impellers and the new pulleys. I welded up a 3/8" X 1" bar with various ears to mount the accessories, tensioner, and idler pulley from a mid 90's GM van. The bar is mounted to the front cover with support bars from both motor mount bolts. I trial and error fit the belt with help from the local NAPA dealer.
Won't know how well it all works until I do a bunch more wiring and plumbing. Turns over by hand OK, hopefully the belt will stay on. If someone is keeping up Rolf's archive of weird V-12's, I'll pull the engine and paint everything when I'm satisfied the mechanicals are working the way I'd like them. For the 6 volt contingency, I'll think about a stealth alt-gen, and a three hole top battery.
Abe
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I just took mine to my local hydraulic supply shop and had them make a hose which I then cut to put an in-line filter to catch any crud left in the old line. Seems to work great.
Abe
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If you can't find new or used Ford clips, I recall seeing older Chevy trucks 30's - 50's with similar clips that probably could be made to work, and may be easier to find.
Abe
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Harry:
When I ordered the headers, they asked if I wanted a flange, and I said "yes, for a 2 inch pipe please" so that is what I got. Apparently they will make them as you request.
Abe
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If the brake fluid has sat a long time, it gets solid and won't flush. I had to use wires and a broken speedometer cable to clear lines and cylinders. I'm using tractor hydraulic fluid from NAPA, doesn't smell as bad when you spill on the carpet. My lines from the dash were impossible, so I found a '60 lincoln pump to go under the back seat.
Abe
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I found a regulator circuit at vintage-planet.com. However, use a separate e-mail account, they send advertisements forever. You can get most of the components at Fry's electronics.
If you want to keep the 6-Volt battery but upgrade the ignition for hotter spark, several of the ignition manufactures make up-verters to 12 volts.
Abe
Plug Wire Installation
in Lincoln & Zephyr
Posted
Paul:
The Pertronix plug wires were stiff enough that I was able to just push them from the individual plug hole toward the front without a fish wire, and use a pair of long nose pliers to take the cross-over wires out through the cross-over opening. I did spray a bit of silicone lubricant on a couple of the wires as I felt more resistance as the wire tubes began to fill. I thought about going to an electrical supply store and purchasing some commercial wire pulling goo, but managed without it. If you are having difficulty, that might help. I may need to resort to a stiff fish wire for the smaller distributor, generator, and temp. sending unit wires. The old insulation on these wires is missing in parts, so I'll have to replace these wires as well. Don't want to scratch the plug wires though, so it would pay to put tape on the fish wire.
Abe