abelincoln
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Posts posted by abelincoln
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The 42-48 Service Manual shows front tread of 59 inches for the Lincoln and 58 for the Ford. I'd think your 41 would be similar. You'd think some aftermarket place would make them to order, try google. Otherwise, maybe a metalsmith?
Abe
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I think my hubcaps are OK, but does anyone reproduce the "Lincoln" script for 48? New clips that rivet on the wheel would be nice too.
Abe
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I seem to have created some discontent by suggesting that the V-12 distributor might be eliminated. I think I have figured out a way to do it, but unless you have more money than sense it might not be worth the effort. The key component is a MoTeC ECU computer that has a programmable table that can set spark delay to accommodate the 75 degree V engine design. You also need a 12 magnet (or toothed wheel) harmonic balancer with an extra magnet so the computer knows where TDC is. Component list:
M4 Sequential Engine Management System ECU
M4 Communication Cable and Wiring Harness
MoTeC Ignition Expander and Seal kit (2)
4 output coil packs and terminations(3)
Bar MAP sensor and termination kit
Hall Effect Magnetic Trigger, termination kit
Harmonic Balancer with custom magnets
The cost for components is over $4,200. You need to fab brackets, terminate plugs and install. You also need a laptop to make the initial settings. The system could also be used for direct fuel injection if desired.
While being put off by the cost, I happened to think that you really don't need to remove the period work of art distributor to mount belt driven accessories. The water pumps have nice pulleys, and a water pump can be rebuilt with a longer shaft to mount additional pulleys, you just need to lightly tighten the added belts to minimize strain on the pump shaft. Hope this information is useful to someone.
Abe
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Thanks for the comments guys. I'll play with the 6 volt distributer for a while. Mean time, I'll price alternatives. I think you could easily double the voltage at the spark plug and get better mileage and instant starting. Plugs could be gapped at .050 instead of .025. However, the price could scare me off. Mean time, I'm enjoying the technical challenge of figuring out how to do it. The engine is odd fire, since no. one and no two cylinders are 75 degrees apart. The computer would have to have a table to delay every other plug firing. Another reason for using distributorless ignition would be if someone wanted to mount additional belt driven accessories. My wife complains about no power steering.
This gets to Rolf's earlier posts about how much modification to do. In this case, saving the original parts would let you put them all back on before taking the car to a show.
Abe
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Well, I took off the distributer (yet again!) and filed the points. This time started up with authority and ran well for a couple of blocks before running out of gas. Thanks again for the right on advice. Still misses a little, so I'm giving consideration to a MoTeC computer with a Chevy crankshaft damper with a 12 tooth timing wheel and pick-up for individual cylinder coils. Should solve all weak spark problems (and make the purists mad) Next problem is something goes thump in the left front as I drive.
Abe
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The 48 LC came alive today after 30 years rest (and an accumulation of bees nests). Hurray! With the help of a little starter fluid, got it started, and after lots of smoke an noise (you could throw a cat through the hole in the crossover pipe) the car seems to idle OK. But the car had not much power, tough time getting out of driveway (brakes worked however, much to my amazement). I went back and charged the battery, now have more power, but still misses a lot. The coil terminals have 3.4 Volts at idle on the right side, and 5.7 volts on the left (drivers) side. Seems like they should be the same?
I'm using a NOS distributer, new fuel pump, rebuilt carb, flushed fuel tank, new plugs, etc. I'm currently running the ignition with a 12 volt battery through a 1.2 ohm resistor ahead of the stock resistor. What do you think? Maybe one set of points isn't conducting? Did I miss something? Haven't changed plug wires yet.
Abe
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Not that I hope I need to know anytime soon, but whats the best way to remove the metal cover from the Continental spare? The tire is kinda flat too. I got the license plate holder to fold down while trying to get at the license plate bulb.
Abe
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Rolf:
I think a lot of us wrestle with original vs modify. Points to several camps in our Continental army. (OK its July 4) Some of us just trailer the car to shows and collect trophies, which is fine for those folks, and I'm happy to look at them. I'm in the other camp, I like to drive mine. However, a restored 46 LC Cab just went for $114,660. in my end of the woods last Weekend, so if mine is not restorable to original, it would loose future value should some of my heirs try to take the car to Pebble Beach. (Won't be me.) So for me, any modification that will add performance, safety, and reliability is fine, long as someone can unbolt it in the future. For example, if someone puts on disk brakes, its fine for a diver car, and a future owner could put the drums back on if they really wanted to. Welding in a Chevrolet frame would compromise the originality and reduce future value. There were less than 500 of my 48 LC Cabriolets made, so its not like a fiberglass Ford you can assemble from scratch.
I've even thought of replacing the lower grill with a 54 Corvette unit. Would save a protect my genuine original from careless parking lot drivers. Lots of flathead Ford hop up tricks can be applied to V-12 motors as well. Crank triggers, computers, fuel injection, even supercharges are all possible. I haven't done any of this stuff yet, but like to think about it.
Abe
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Several folks make spindles for disk brakes that fit Ford and Lincoln. The best I've found uses a Ford truck disk and the original 5 1/2 bolt circle. However, if you're going to change the rear end as well a smaller bolt circle will work for you.
Suggestion: Hot rod a flathead V-12 and adapt a four - five speed automatic. Would make a much more unique car! If you have to have an OHV, get a BMW, Ferrari, or Mercedes V-12 engine.
Abe
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I got a new Chinese puller from an e-bay store. Works great for less $. Just remember to put the nut on the end of the axle as the drum comes off with a bang! Chrysler - Plymouth pullers work too.
abe
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I've heard of people using tractor hydraulic fluid. I buy by the gallon from NAPA for my tractor, but haven't converted the Lincoln yet. Should be easier on the hoses.
Abe
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My 48 LC comes equipped with a period extra, a vacuum pump on the upper firewall. Is this necessary? What is supposed to be there? I'm replacing all lines. Mine starts at the manifold with about a 1/4 inch steel line which is plugged into a 3/8 line going to a canister in the passenger's side wheel well. Coming out of the canister is a 1/4 inch line to the pump. Pump has a separate red knob under the dash hooked to the ignition circuit. Lots of loose lines under the dash, looks like at one time there was a vacuum antenna.
Seems like 12 pistons and a small carburator should give lots of vacuum to run wipers and power brakes, especially with a storage canister. Is the pump a clutch for poor lines or bad wiper motor?
The engine does run despite the vacuum leaks after a lot of fiddling, but the car won't be mobile until I finish replacing most all brake lines, fix a bunch of wiring, etc.
Abe
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Rolf:
There are a couple easier solutions for flathead V-8. MSD and Philbin Mfg, Portland, OR make solid state breakerless ignitions that replace the V-8 crab style. I've seen the Philbin, I think its called "Flatheads Forever". You friend could also use an 8BA font cover and an aftermarket dual point or solid state regular distributer that fits 49-53 Ford. If you could somehow mount a Lincoln V-12 distributer on a V-8 (I'll be surprised if the holes line up, You'll need to move one set of points, as the Lincoln is 74 degree separation between cylinder banks, and the V-8 is 90 degrees. Naturally, you'd also need a four point rotor and two 4 hole distributer caps. If your friend wants any accessory pullies for power steering, AC, etc, the Lincoln distributer could be in the way.
So far, I haven't seen any similar solutions for the Lincoln V-12. I've theorized that one might take two 8BA covers and weld them together for the 74 degree engine, and use two seperate 6 cylinder distributers. However, that would also put a bunch of wires up front for all to see.
Abe
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Is the 292 V-12 balanced internally, or externally with the flywheel and front damper? Anyone know the exact diameter of the crankshaft snout? I'm thinking as long as the front end is apart, maybe a modern ATI or similar crankshaft damper would be an improvement and perhaps make the internals last longer. Would facilitate if anyone wanted to mount more pullies as well.
Abe
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This is a cool idea to solve ignition problems. While your at it, I'd think about a dual MSD 6A
capacitor discharge system and a modern set of 8 mm plug wires. Great for cars that have to sit
a while between useages, and points last much longer. Looks like you have a GM alternator.
I've been toying with the idea of two ignition trigger pickups but haven't figured how to mount yet.
Abe
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Gdcont:
I found a bracket to mount GM one wire alternators on e-bay. Ford unit works fine on Lincolns. After much trepidation, I found converting to 12V negative ground isn't too much of a hassle. Had to make a voltage drop circuit for the instruments and use a few resistors. Haven't tackled the radio yet, but looks like changing a few capacitors would do the trick.
Abe. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />
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If you happen to have AAA insurance, the'll send someone to attempt to unlock for free. Don't know if the hacksaw blade with a hook ground in might work, but its worth a try.
Abe
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Its easy, or at least I've done it more than once, to get the distributer in 180 degrees off. I finally figured out to check continuity to the coil with no. 1 pulg wire, on the driver's side unlike the Ford flathead V-8.
Abe
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Been fighting a crankcase vent oil leak on one of my other projects, a Ford Y-Block, and made me think of the 48 Lincoln V-12. The only apparent vent is a small tube that comes from the intake manifold to the air filter. Would this be a good place for a PCV valve? Is there a better solution? The engine did have a lot of sludge in it.
Thanks
Abe <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />
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You can use valves and rams from at least through 1960. Later cars used a smaller valve. New seal kits are also available. Some folks replace the works with Granada linkage.
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My 56 312 has a breather filter on the side of the block. I was loosing valve cover gaskets, so I replaced the filter, now the draft tube continually drips oil. I cleaned the drainback tube, but still get a puddle when the car stops. Did I do something wrong?
Abe
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My 48 pump doesn't want to pump either. I've been thinking of locating a later model
late 50's or 60's pump in a disctete location so casual observers won't notice.
Abe
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If you really want a modern Zepher, Terry Cook (Former Hot Rod Editor) has a company that makes them from scratch, to your specifications. No original tin is cut. Pretty pricy though.
Abe
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I'm attempting to restovate a 48 LC hydraulic system so the top and windows can be operated. I disassembled the pump and cleaned 30 yrs of crud from inside and freed up the regulator valve. Got the pump motor to run without too much arching by sanding the brushes. But, can't get any fluid to come out. I tried priming both sides with dexron II, even took out the regulator valve and spring. Still no fluid. Am I missing something? Every time I take the pump apart, I get transmission fluid on the floor.
Thanks
Abe
Need a Crying Towel
in Lincoln & Zephyr
Posted
I'd run a few more tests before I pulled the engine. My old mechanic buddies tell me to squirt a little oil in the cylinder and try the compression check again. This will give you an idea of is the problem with the valves or with the rings. Also, was the engine hot or cold when checked? May be OK when warm. If you overheated, might just have a head gasket problem. The cylinder heads just unbolt, and you can check the cylinder wall wear while you're there. Also look at the vacuum with a gage. Should be steady, if not may have valve problems. Also, don't overlook possible ignition problems. Ford and Lincoln flathead engines are pretty forgiving.
Surely you can do better than a Chevy. The Chevrolet engine and transmission won't bolt to the torque tube, so you'd need new motor mounts, new drive shaft, rear end, suspension, and a lot of extra costs to adapt that could be put into engine refurbishment.
Abe