abelincoln
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Posts posted by abelincoln
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Not familiar with Blue Flame. In our Hogan aluminum heads, the stock 1/2" reach spark plugs were recessed into the head, so I tried the Edelbrock Ford flathead recommended plugs with 3/4: reach which then were hit by the intake valves. So I found some 1/8 spacers to use under the plugs so they wouldn't hit but still extend some into the chamber. Check yours, preferably before installation.
Abe
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Got rear bearing cap off, looks like lots of oil was getting to it. I'll check the rest, We did plastigage the mains, all were in spec. However, we did find a suspicious bung someone had welded about 1/3 way down the front part of the pan, likely for a breather or maybe a dip stick. I've ground it pretty close to flush, hopefully won't hit a crank throw. Also been polishing chambers in aluminum heads.
The Melling M-15 pump is also out, will look over but seems OK at first look. The rear oil slingers have been replaced with a Ford seal, so I don't anticipate the need for a drain pipe in the big hole on the rear cap that now leads to the Ford seal chamber. A smaller hole in the bearing cap leads to the rear main to drain oil that goes that way. Drain pipe was in the way of Melling pump pick up tube.
Still need to scrape the old head gaskets off the block, tedious job as head studs won't come out. Going to try a neoprene edge seal on the rear lip of the pan that hits the rear bearing cap.
Abe
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It does get worse. You'll need new, reversed capacitors in the radio input circuit for negative ground. Then you need to pull the wire out of the ammeter and put through the opposite way so charge and discharge will read correctly. I built an electronic voltage reducer, but you can also use a 57 Ford vibrating instrument regulator. I connected a separate wire for the holding coil inside the OD solenoid with a resistor in the circuit to maintain 6 volts. Main solenoid works fine on 12 volts. Before I replaced the coils, I used a large resistor in the coil circuit, got really hot, but it did run. Then I found a nice 100 amp 12 volt alternator. Needed all this for electric fans, 1960 Lincoln top pump, and engine control computer. The starter loves 12 volts, spins nicely. But realize 12 volt conversion is not for everyone.
Abe
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Don't know about 39, but someone in the dim past put 820-15 Denmans on our 48 LC, fits, looks and drives fine. Haven't tried skirts though. Early 60's Ford pickups had 16 inch rims with 5 X 5 1/2 bolt spacing. Don't know about back spacing. No hubcap clips either.
Abe
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Thanks guys, here is the plan. I contacted H&H flatheads who can have Ross make some pistons for the Lincoln V-12, but they are quite costly. A second e-mail from H&H noted that the Hogan NZ heads do not have polished chambers, so I should feel free to grind in the offending area. This sounds good to me. Closer inspection finds a few casting flashings in the the chambers, so I plan to de-burr and polish with increasingly fine sand paper. Mean time, we'll pull the pan. I've got a Moroso dip stick that needs a welded bung, in the lower pan and I suspect the rear main oil drain pipe is loose, leading to low oil pressure. With any luck, will be running again by end of summer.
Abe
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Piston no. 3 shown below. Seems that edge comes slightly above desk. Valve guide clips seem firmly in place. I had trouble earlier with keepers falling out when I went to adjust valves, and they now seem to go up and down without drama when engine is turned with the starter. I suppose if one piston hits, the rest must be close.
Thanks
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I think Tom was right, the Egge V-12 pistons hit the roof of the cylinder head chamber. No, 3 has a mark on the swirl ridge in chamber, see below. So What to do?
1. Who makes pistons that are not Egge?
2. Would it be advisable to cut top of pistons?
3. I hate to touch the Hogan heads, but one could machine or even die grind the swirl ridge?
4. Might thicker head gaskets be available?
I suppose one should make a trial fit with some play-do, grease, or foil on top of the piston, but the aluminum heads are difficult to get on and out, and the head studs are stuck really good.
Thanks
Abe
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The plot thickens. Knock seems worse in lower parts of motor, but is pretty loud everywhere. Noise occurs with fan belt on or off, but not wen cranking with the starter with ignition off. Compression is quite low in cylinder no. 8. I'm suspecting something serious. Bore is 0.060 over. Hmmm.
Abe
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Our 48 V-12 finally started, something good for the stay at home order. However, it sounds terrible. https://soundcloud.com/user-17353757/20200408-102737a. Sine the recording, I fixed a couple mis-firing spark plugs and installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge, and put in fresh oil. Helped a bit, but there is still a knock about each revolution.
Engine was rebuilt with solid, adjustable lifters on re-ground camshaft. Used a Melling M-15 oil pump. Put a pipe plug in the rear oil spring chamber, and thinking that some oil was still needed for the lifters drilled 1/16 holes in the plug and through the bottom of the front spring chamber as well as in the front plug so the timing chain would get some oil. Also put in a full flow oil filter by drilling a return hole in the rear of the engine and putting a plug between the filter out and filter in lines.
Pressure gauge reads about 20 lbs, I think it should be more. Seems to be good volume of oil flow. Still does not run well, idles too fast. Any suggestions before we pull the pan?
Abe
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Do you have the correct pickup tube and screen for the M-15? Not the same as the original. I got mine from Mac's.
Abe
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Wish we could purchase at the original parts list. Thanks for the wish list.
Abe
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Uriel:
I also think a good place to start is the distributor. When you take it off, you'll notice what a mechanical marvel it is. There are two sets of points, each fires plugs on both sides of the engine. look for broken springs on points, or frozen points. A way to test is to measure voltage at the points at the back of the coil, distributor assembly. Should be 2.5-3 volts each while running. (Watch out for the fan!) If the distributor is removed, note that one end of the tang is slightly larger, corresponding to the slot in the camshaft. It is possible to install backwards, don't ask me how I know.
If you find the need to replace parts, might find someone with an old distributor machine, or send out. I've had good luck with Philbin Manufacture AKA flathead doctor in Portland. I suspect the coil is OK, but they can be rebuilt or replaced with two standard coils. Plug wires might also be bad after a long time sitting.
Abe
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Anybody have a diagram of how oil flow works in the V-12? Looks like the pump sends oil to filter, rear main, and to lifter gallery. In the valley, I put the 1/8 pipe plug in the rear regulator, and drilled a 1/16" hole in the bottom of the front regulator to accommodate solid, adjustable lifters. By some miracle the engine started after a looong time of re-assembly, but was shut off due to excessive mechanical noise. So I took off the intake manifold to re-adjust the loose valves Problem was that re-ground camshaft has lifters lower in the boss in the block, and you have to lift valve and spring assembly to adjust.
Anyway, after a few minutes of operation, I'm not seeing oil in the gallery, looks pretty dry, seems like there should be some oil present. I'm now concerned that not enough oil is getting to the lifters. Should I drill out the front hole bigger, or is everything OK the way it is?
Advice to those considering similar mods: if the cam if is reground, also grind about 1/8 off the top of the lifter bosses to make lifter adjustment easier..
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Check the aftermarket suppliers for pulleys, ebay, amazon also. I've seen them at swap meets. I got one from Grainger, but needed to modify mounting boss to make it work. Then I converted the whole operation to serpentine belt. When the input capacitors fail on the radio, you may experience more static. They are likely bad anyway after 70 years.
Abe
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You should consider replacing the input capacitors on the radio, and reverse the polarity. Worst problem is pulling the wire out of the ammeter and reversing direction so will read charge and discharge correctly. for the instruments, you can either build a solid state voltage reducer or use a 57 Ford vibrating regulator. 100 amp GM alternator with one wire works well with an adapter bracket for Ford you can also find on e-bay.
then you don't need the regulator on the firewall. Abe
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Try measuring voltage on the low side of the coil with the engine running, (being careful of the fan!) Should be 2-3 volts on each side. I had a NOS distributor that had a bad spring on the points, took a long time to figure out. Try to find someone with an old test set that can dial in the distributor, check vacuum advance too. I've also had sparking at the terminal plate where the wires hook up. Really messy.
Abe
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I tried hydraulic jack oil in the shock. First warm unit with light torch to get old oil out. Works better now.
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I got someone to answer the phone a few months ago, said business was tied up by state wanting taxes, and the survivors were trying to re-incorporate in Delaware. They have always been good to me. I hope they make it.
Abe
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Doesn't sound good. But there are a couple things to try. Jack up at least one rear wheel, put tranny in neutral, and try to spin wheel by hand. While in the air, you can also block front wheel, run engine in gear (I'd try second) and see if you can notice any thing out of ordinary. If a bearing is bad, it usually gets warm when run. Good Luck
Abe
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Cool, we have a 48 in that color. Along with various Fords and Lincolns, I also have a tractor. So I put in hydraulic tractor fluid from NAPA. Works well, and does not smell like ATF or ancient brake fluid. Easier to clean up too.
Abe
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I'd look for a parts book, and a body book, nice drawings and dimensions. Probably better would be to find an intact Lincoln of your model and take lots of pictures.
Abe
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My understanding is the Lincoln starter dive is a bit different than the Ford. A competent auto-electric place will rebuild your Lincoln starter. I use ABE in Portland, OR
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Not a Lincoln, but the 56 Fords in my collection headlight switches are held in with a bezel from the front. There is a button the top of the switch which releases the shaft of the switch so you can get at the bezel. Hope this helps
Abe
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Does the engine turn over? I put a mixture of WD-40, Marvel oil, and auto trans fluid in each cylinder to soak for a few days, removed the starter, and gently pried on flywheel teeth to free. After a few more days, it worked. Be careful, if you break a flywheel tooth, its a bunch more work. 12-V should spin starter, but I had to get mine re-built to spin engine.
Good Luck
Abe
Lincoln brakes and lines.
in V12 Lincolns Only
Posted
I've had fair luck with a parts store suction tool. I finally found an old master cylinder lid and plumbed it with an air fitting to force 10-15 lbs pressure, get a nice flow at bleeder screws. Much easier.
Abe