abelincoln
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Posts posted by abelincoln
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Did the conversion include re-wiring the coils for 12-volts? You can get away with the old one with a 1.2 ohm 50 watt resistor in the ignition circuit. Beware it gets hot. The gauges still like 6 volts, should be a converter circuit somewhere. If now negative ground, need to re-thread the ammeter wire in the opposite direction. Measure voltage at the coil low voltage terminals while running, should be 2.5-3 volts. Watch out for fan! I like your car color.
Abe
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Not so bad if you take out the two large bolts on the bottom of radiator that hold radiator in, access from wheel wells , lower radiator, slip on hoses with clamps , pry radiator back in place, install bolts, then tighten hose clamps. Best of luck.
Abe
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There are several possible methods. You can adapt a hose with PCV to the hole in manifold leading to engine valley, at least on later models, that lets air from engine into air cleaner. You could also drill a hole in web near mounting bolt holes, no water in intake manifold, but avoid exhaust passage. Some use the manifold port for vacuum connection, better if you can add hole to carb near throttle control, or add a spacer plate under carb for carb vacuum to PCV. I found a Chevy 292, 6 cylinder PCV valve fit OK. Haven't yet run to check vacuum though. However, if engine has too much blow-by or if two piece valve guides are leaking, this won't solve problem for long. Time for a rebuild with one piece Ford 8BA guides and valves and newer aluminum pistons with new rings. Then apply PCV valve. Engine will be cleaner inside and will last longer.
Abe
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Ryan:
Old brake fluid really gums up, you may not be able to save all the lines. I had to replace several lines, rod out some with an old speedometer cable, and do my best flushing the top cylinders. I also gave up on the pump under the hood after several attempts, lines were also plugged, and got a '60 pump that fits under rear seat. I now use NAPA tractor hydraulic fluid for top lines. Smells a lot better than auto transmission fluid.
Abe
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Adrian:
Not familiar with flatomatic, but have torn apart several ford automatics. Sounds to me like very low oil level or something in the torque converter isn't getting pressure to the connection. The C4 is generally pretty rugged. If you are adventuresome, get a later model with more gears and adapt to open drive line or fab a torque tube adapter.
Abe
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Dave:
Hard to tell what some previous re-builder has done. I'd think anyone who grinds flathead cams could do the job. Tell him you if you want to keep hydraulic or convert to solid lifters. I used Oregon Camshaft in Vancouver, WA. The hot tip here is to use the 8BA Ford one piece valve guides and valves, retainers, etc. Much less chance of blow-by, combustion products in the oil, and stink out the vent pipe.
You can pick up a few HP by using solid, adjustable lifters and a flathead performance grind. Need to plug rear oil gallery and drill 1/16 holes in the front gallery and in the front to oil timing gear. You can adjust out the typical flathead lifter chatter. Adding a PCV valve helps with vapor control also.
Abe
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Rather ominous hole in the front window.
Abe
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If you don't mind loosing the stock tube type radio, looks like a display would fit nicely where the speaker in the dash currently resides, at least on my 48. Pioneer and others make radio units with backup cameras that look like they would fit. You could put a hinge on the stock speaker cover to shade the screen and also hide the screen when not in use. Of course you'd need speakers in the doors or kick panels. Then you get FM, bluetooth sterio, and navigation system as well.
Someone should make a hinge mirror mount that sticks up higher for the right side. In the mean time I think the Ford truck hinge mirrors look OK. I prefer driving with the top down, lots of visibility then.
Abe
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Congratulations! Yours looks cleaner than mine.
Abe
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Hopefully it wasn't offset ground to increase stroke so you won't need custom rods or pistons. If they didn't remove the oil slinger in the rear, do so and get a Ford seal so it won't leak going up steep hills.
Abe
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Best to find a good schematic diagram so you'll know which wire goes where. The little red service and repair manual has one (ebay has them), and several are available on the web, look for the right year. Make sure the fuse is good as well.
Abe
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As long as we're being rare and exotic, you could use the center plug hole for one of the new fangled direct injection setups. Need 2500 lb fuel pressure though.
Abe
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Cool stuff. Seems like the center spark plug might interfere with the piston top. Would the front cover mount two six cylinder distributors?
Abe
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On car:
1. Check fuse, make sure transmission is not in reverse.
2. Ground relay terminal that goes to governor, should hear relay pick up and solenoid clunk.
3. if no clunk, check wiring to solenoid, and grounds. Make sure relay picks up even if solenoid doesn't.
4. Consider unplugging wires to solenoid, take out bolts, turn solenoid to remove. Have rag or plug handy as fluid will often leak out hole.
Off car, or if still in car
1. Connect big wire to battery, ground case. Should clunk. If not, find a good electric rebuilding shop. Folks who rebuild starters should be able to fix solenoid. The Lincoln solenoid shaft is longer than most other OD units, tough to find a replacement, hopefully yours can be rebuilt. I've used ABE electric in Portland.
Abe
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Give consideration to a Melling M15 high volume oil pump and pickup. You can also get a one piece front seal. I ended up busting most valves. If I did again, I'd just cut the old valve springs. The 8BA valves are much easier. I got a small engine clamp on valve spring compressor, worked pretty good. Some of us regrind cam for adjustable solid lifters. I got a Honda metric tapered piston installer. Worked great! Other options are a full flow oil filter, new aluminum heads and multi-carb manifolds. Hope you are faster than I am.
Abe
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I think you could use a timing light, but first you'd have to find Top Dead Center (TDC) on cylinder no. 1 This is a problem on the flathead as when you pull a spark plug, you'll see valves, not pistons. Best way would be to remove the left head and turn engine to TDC, both valves closed. Then you would need to fabricate a pointer, and add marks on the pulley or damper. You can purchase a tape for this.
If you take your distributor to someone with an old machine, the points can be set right on and you don't need to worry about TDC. I've used Philbin Manufacture AKA "flathead doctor" here in Portland. Philbin also has a solid state points kit for the V-12.
Abe
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I got one of Ken Austin's final production, unless he's re-thought it. (Always possible). Ken was supplying H&H Flatheads, who of course want more money, but they are reputable. Look up Empire on FordBarn or HAMB. I wouldn't touch it with a 10 foot pole.
Abe
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Almost forgot, definitely use 8BA 49-53 Ford one piece valve guides, springs, retainers.
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You'll need to make some decisions on internal mods that no one sees. Consider grinding the rear oil slinger on the crank and use a Ford seal. Solid, adjustable lifters? You'll need cam regrind, a hole drilled in the front pressure relief, and another small hole to lube the front cam gears. Solid one piece front seal? Reds headers and dual exhaust? Aftermarket finned aluminum heads? New intake with multiple carbs or throttle bodies? Eliminate distributor with pick-up and computer? Distributor can also be rebuilt with electronic ignition. Melling M-15 oil pump and oil pickup tube are also recommended. Want to use an external fuel pump? Give serious consideration to a PCV valve, stock engine has no crankcase ventilation. You can also add a full flow oil filter. Will you want power steering and air conditioning? Want a serpentine fan belt? Or if the car sits in a museum and gets trailered to shows, keep everything original.
Abe
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Larry:
Nice ride, what kind of rear view mirrors did you use? I can't see much in mine.
Abe
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Could something be bent or out of alignment? Check camber, castor and toe-in by a reputable shop. I like ones run by old guys that might have seen our kind of suspension before. Don't think rear suspension would cause unless something is really loose or mis-installed.
Abe
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Unhook the torque Tube, remove the nut that holds u-joint to trans shaft, and lift out to the front. Pull the cover and check for worn or chipped gears. If staying in 2d gear is a problem, replace synchros. Look for leaks, might be good idea to replace rear seal.
Abe.
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Cool, should be able to see at 100 yards. Nice tablet too!
Abe
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Might be worth a try to put in a can of STP or some other oil treatment to see if anything changes. You can also squirt a few pumps of oil into each cylinder and recheck compression. If compression goes up, might need rings. If not much improvement, try something to free up the valves in case there is carbon under that won't let close completely, eg Marvin Mystery oil. You pour into carb, and make a big stink.
Abe
Who has a Zephyr road draft tube?????
in Lincoln - Buy/Sell
Posted
John:
I'm not aware of any. Someone stuffed a large hose in my filler tube with a heater hose inside. Still smelled bad. You can get after market breathers that you cut a hole in pan to mount, or better yet, get a PCV setup. Cure is to rebuild with Ford 8BA one piece valve guides and valves, aluminum pistons and good rings.
Abe