abelincoln
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Posts posted by abelincoln
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No burnt valves, engine compartment looks remarkably clean. I suggest some form of crankcase ventilation when you put it back.
Best of luck
Abe
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I had pretty good luck with vanpeltsales.com. They had all the parts I needed. Finding a manual will help with disassembly, and more importantly assembly. I had a local shop press bearings and rear seal.
Abe
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Oliver
I did have to cut a hole in the cross member behind the new master cylinder for the MC to fit behind the booster, Just line the Booster up with the stock rod that connects to the pedal assembly at the stock height. I used two coupling nuts to connect, see above picture. Perhaps someone local to you has a 7 in dual booster that would work. Must be an auto parts store somewhere nearby. Show them a picture. Good luck!
Abe
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I got some cool Hogan New Zealand Heads from the SCAT crankshaft company in California. Has two water outlets on each head so they can be symmetrical, and revised spark plug locations.
Abe
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Oliver:
The 7 inch dual booster fits just fine. Some firewall mounted boosters are much larger. We used new bolts to secure the pedal assembly through the frame with nuts on the engine side of the frame. Had to cut holes in the adapter plate to cover the bolt heads. You mount the booster so the rod on the booster front will connect to the Lincoln rod with the cotter pin using a couple of coupling nuts with a short piece of threaded rod inbetween. This also gives you a place to adjust the length of the combined rod to adjust pedal height.
Hope this helps
Abe
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Oliver:
You should be able to make the parts work, You'll still need to make or buy an adapter plate. Here is mine bolted to booster. I used a steel plate, but aluminum might be easier to drill. I used a coupling nut to tie old rod to new booster input shaft. Had to drill holes in frame for long bolts and for booster bolt heads. Holes in plate cover bolt heads that secure the stock pedal assembly. The master cylinder bolts on the back of the booster, so a separate bracket is not needed, but I did have to notch the cross member behind the master cylinder to make room. Seems like you might find some local parts as they make quite a few nice cars in Germany.
Abe
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Oliver:
Yes, (Yaah) I ordered mine from an outfit that was close to my location, but is no longer in business. The master cylinder quit on me, so I got a replacement from Master Power, www.mpbrakes.com. So far, so good, If I had to do it again, I usually get great service from Speedway Motors. They should have everything you need. They are also good with advice. I think Summit Racing also has pretty much everything. Check out Jegs as well. I'm going to replace the cheap hoses from the fenderwell mount remote fill to the master cylinder soon.
You need: dual master cylinder, small size to fit in small space ( had to notch the crossmember to make it fit, got a spare Corvette MC that wouldn't fit)
Remote fill kit with tops for master cylinder, hoses, and reservoir for fender well.
Dual diaphragm booster, 7 inch size.
Adapt stock brake pedal assembly to booster (I used a 3/8 inch plate and cut holes, easier to just buy an aftermarket assembly)
1/2 inch hose and T to splice vacuum line to booster
For disk brakes: Speedway kit with custom bracket, new wheel bearings and races with Ford truck 5 on 5 1/2 lug rotors, Chevy calipers, You need to shrink an adapter ring on stock spindle. Also, need adjustable proportioning valve to equalize pressure front and back, 2 lb residual valve for front brakes, and a bunch of brake tubing and adapters for the master cylinder, proportioning valve, and front disks. Lincoln has 1/4 inch lines, disk calipers and proportioning valve take 3/16 line.
Hope this helps
Abe
Abe
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Please don't start with 40 year old gas. If you are lucky, you can blow out the gas line. Drain the gas. I had to remove tank, and take to radiator shop to clean. Foul smelling gunk in there.
Abe
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i found a soft plastic rope on e-bay. I'm using John Deer Corn Head grease, comes in a tube. Went together fine, but we haven't got the rest of the car together to see if it leaks when run. Look for Ford seal.
Abe
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Mike:
Someone in the past put an aftermarket 6 volt vacuum booster on my firewall, pretty ugly but seemed to work. Might check if the vacuum tank in the right front fender is there, or if it might have a leak. If the tank holds vacuum, and the hoses aren't cracked and leaking, your original vacuum motor should work, unless it too has a leak or worn parts. Should also be able to find a replacement if necessary.
Abe
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Bill:
The low buck plan would be to just get a new aftermarket setup, Jegs, Speedway, Summit, etc. You may already have switches in the door you can re-use. I think the original switches for the hydraulic cylinders could be also used, might need a couple of relays. With a little digging, might even find one that works on 6 volts. If you went for the battery in the trunk, maybe an upverter would charge a 12 volt battery even if it wouldn't run the window motors directly. Keep us posted, our 48 LCC windows don't go up either.
Abe
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Bill:
I suspect you'll find a bunch of plugged and corroded hydraulic lines that made the previous owner put in electrics. You could attempt to rod out lines and check for leaks and find new hydraulic cylinders to restore, or consider 12 volt, negative ground conversion. You can get stealth 12 volt batteries with three fill holes in top, and alternators that look like a generator. Might also try taking old window motors to an electrical rebuild shop to see if they might be made to work on 6 volts. I suspect they would be slow. With electric, you could operate windows with engine off.
Abe
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Mine takes 6 quarts, but seems like you should have some pressure. The hot tip seems to be use a Melling M-15 high volume pump. Takes a different pick-up tube and screen from Mac's or others.
Abe
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Booster in fender looks cool. I replaced master cylinder with dual diaphragm 7 inch booster. But you need a remote fill kit as hole in floor no longer lines up with the MC. I also rebuilt everything and replaced bad lines. Stopped as well as my non-power 56 Ford, but not as well as our later cars with disks. Speedway has a great kit for Ford pickup disks. Get it when they are offering free shipping. In addition to the master cylinder, you'll need a 2 lb residual valve in the front lines, and a proportioning valve for the rear.
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Lots of options here. You can get a generator that looks like a generator and works with positive ground and 6 volts, or you can convert to 12 volts negative ground, get a Ford adapter and bolt in a GM 100 amp one wire alternator and eliminate the regulator on the fire wall. Latter option won't look stock, but will spin starter faster.
Abe
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If you can rotate the crank to the position where most of the throws are up, especially in front, you'll have a easier time getting pan off.
Abe
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PS: With head off, did you mike the cylinders to check for wear and out of round?
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LM:
This can be frustrating. If you have the V-12 running, you should check the vacuum. If you get a tick every so often, could be a stuck or burnt valve. I had two of them. If vacuum is smooth, try adding oil in the cylinders, and re-check compression. If you get a significant increase, worn rings or cylinder walls is suspect. Better if you can put water in before running. Is the oil level indicator rising? low cylinders could be letting gas in. I had this and discovered when oil-gas mix came out rear non-seal. Not a safe operation either. Good thing nobody smokes here. Do you get noxious blow-by out the oil fill tube? With head off, can you feel a large ridge at top of bore? Maybe you'll get lucky and a can of STP or equivalent will solve the problem.
Abe
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Will make a big difference if a leak or malfunction should occur, With a dual cylinder you still have two wheels to brake. The piston diameter in the new master cylinder will impact the braking effort. I put a 7-inch dual vacuum power break unit in front of the new master cylinder, which does help braking quite a bit. Of course, the new master cylinder does no longer line up with the fill hole in the floor, so I had to get a remote fill kit with a reservoir on the inner fender. Next step is to use a Speedway kit for Ford truck disks in front with a proportioning valve to balance front and rear and a 2 lb. residual valve to keep front disks in place.
Abe
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I suspect you mean what we'd call a dual master cylinder. You can buy an aftermarket kit for Ford with or without power assist. I had to make an adapter plate for mine to use original pedal. I suppose Speedway Motors would ship to Germany. You'll then need to do some plumbing and bleeding.
Abe
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This is highly subjective, but my review of material available on Lincoln history has the 41 as a project of Edsel Ford, and the front end is both restrained and elegant with the thin waterfall bars. The 42-48's received a more garish and heavily chromed grill to compete with the Cadillac egg crate grills. But it can't be bad since I am the proud owner of a 48 as well.
However, I have pondered how to update, but not degrade the character of the car. Perhaps if the horizontal bars in the lower grill were pained out black, making the vertical bars stand out. Or if the grill surround were painted body color. Wonder if a set of Corvette teeth would fit in the lower grill space, or if that would violate the sanctity of Lincoln design? Might not then have to pay so much for re-chroming.
Abe
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OD in gear lamp is in the speedometer. Looks like another high beam indicator. A wire from the OD relay on the engine side of the fire wall runs the lamp. Check to see if yours is plugged in.
Abe
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After more than one shock, man that smarts, I took an old spark plug, connected high voltage plug wire to top, and clipped the base to ground. Start engine, and observe spark from safe distance. Also, if you have a clip-on timing light, you can see if each wire will make the timing light flash.
Abe
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Just thinking, perhaps you could fab a plate or slot the hole in the frame to attach motor mount to engine so the engine would be 1 inch further back? Maybe you could sneak the rear end forward a bit? Are you using a column shift, or a floor shift? Don't recall ever seeing a BW overdrive with a floor shift located forward like stock. If the engine is moved rearward, might interfere with column shift levers. A good driveshaft shop should be able to replace propeller shaft with a longer shaft and weld a piece to lengthen torque tube. Maybe you have a Ford transmission? Converting to open driveshaft is also a possibility. I'm recalling that 1947 Ford trucks were open driveshaft.
Abe
Camshaft question
in V12 Lincolns Only
Posted
The front mounted distributor is bolted to the front cover, and limits cam walk to the front. I understand the gear cut also helps.
Abe