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Posts posted by Aaron65

  1. The best way is to mount the manifold like the factory did.  I've cut the modern gaskets up to just use the intake portions and used the graphite mix recommended in the shop manual on the exhaust.  The exhaust surface of my heads is not good enough, however, to continue to do this, so I've switched to Remflex gaskets.  They are expensive, but they've lasted through two driving seasons, and I never got more than one season out of any other type of gasket.  




    I wouldn't even bother using the ones you have; they will almost certainly start leaking sooner or later, probably sooner.  One note with the Remflex gaskets: the heat riser gasket did not fit; it wasn't even close, but you can use any gasket there.  I always coat both sides with High Temp RTV (not the Remflex gaskets, but the regular ones for the heat riser).


    To sum up: factory method is best, Remflex is next (IMO).  

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  2. If you plan to retorque the head, do it one bolt at a time in the order suggested by the shop manual, and break each bolt loose first (in order, one at a time).  If you try to simply tighten each bolt, you will have to overcome its breakaway torque value, which could give you a false reading.  The danger of retorquing in your case is that you may disturb the sealer on the driver's bank of bolts, but it sounds like you don't have much to lose by trying it.  Good luck!

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  3. Those tools were used to retorque the head after the engine had been run for a bit...I bent my own that worked OK, but if you plan to remove the head, you'll definitely want to remove the rocker shaft first.  It's not hard, and you won't have to fight the pushrods that way.  You will need an engine hoist or two pals to help you lift that head off; it's a monster.  

  4. A rebuilt engine shouldn't really ever smoke, regardless of the ring type.  It might use some oil, but if it's smoking profusely, something is wrong.  If the engine is knocking back by the transmission, I'd be first checking my flexplate for cracks, looseness, or something else that has gone awry in that area.  If the knocking is getting worse, I would stop driving it until you figure out the problem.  Good luck!

  5. You may want to run over to V8buick.com for more details, but you should have no problems with the motor mounts or transmission bellhousing pattern.  I'm not sure what the inlet/outlet situation is, but you may even be able to get away with using the Regal's radiator.  If you don't have any smog worries, and you aren't looking for 12 second quarter miles, why not?  One note of caution: the 300 has very few aftermarket parts, so if you're looking to hop it up, you need to be creative, and may want to consider another engine.  If you're just looking to cruise, it should be an easy swap.  Good luck.  

  6. If the above information is correct, and the pistons are the only difference between a Special 322 and a Roadmaster/Super 322, I'd have no reservations about using an engine from a Special.  I doubt you'd notice the difference in power, and you may even be able to get away with less expensive gas; however, I'd really go over this thread and do my homework, because it sounds like Buick changed a lot of parts over the course of a couple of model years.  I'd want to truly make sure everything you have will fit together.  Good luck...I enjoy getting a mothballed car running again, even though the process is often rife with frustration.  

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  7. Jim is correct on the access to the middle, but it is better than scissor lifts that give no access to the middle of the car.  You could still drop a transmission, for example.  I had the two sides of the lift reversed for some reason in the picture I attached above, so you can't seem them, but there are locks that keep the lifts from falling should the hydraulic cylinders fail for any reason.  Once you have the car up in the air, the whole thing is stable, plus it seems like the car's weight is distributed over a larger area than it would be on jack stands.  

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  8. I would also head over to 65gs.com and V8buick.com to talk to them.  The price on anything is largely based on condition, and that is always subject to the whims and caprices of the buyer and often not fully apparent in pictures, for good or for bad. 


    The pictures show that your car is as you said, tired but complete.  It may or may not have a lot of filler in it, but the door gaps look decent, so it's probably structurally solid.  GS convertibles are always popular, so somebody will want it if you decide to sell, as long as you aren't unrealistic in your expectations.  Buicks rarely bring the money of comparable Chevelles and GTOs.  Good luck!

  9. 2 hours ago, Laughing Coyote said:

    I love the lines on that body style T bird. Nice color too.

    The color did it for me, too...as near as I can tell, it's Acapulco Blue, which is a '62 color.  It was originally Diamond Blue, which is very, very light; I can see evidence of that and one other color in various spots around the car, and the current color is by far my favorite of the three.  :)


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  10. Thank you Steve,

    I kind of wondered about that myself; when I posted over there, I just figured that maybe someone would be able to help me with a question or two as their experience dictates, but I probably went overboard for a first post.  I'll check out Squarebirds and start with the most pressing question.  



  11. Thanks, Keiser!


    I guess there isn't a popular T-Bird forum out there; that's kind of unexpected.  All of my cars except this one have at least one robust forum, and it's the T-Bird that doesn't?  :)  Oh well, time to start digging through those shop manuals...if man made it, I can break fix it.

  12. I just bought a '63 T-Bird, and I have a few model specific questions about things like the power steering system, power seats, swing away wheel, and whatnot.  It looks like most of the T-Bird forums are a bit dead...anyone know of a good one that's reasonably well-populated?


    I'll attach a picture of the car; it's pretty awesome.  :)

    '63 T-Bird 1.JPG

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  13. My steering gear leaks all over the place, and has probably 65 years of use under its belt without being touched.  I'd like to take it apart and replace the seals and gaskets at least, and maybe any bearings if I can.  Anyone found a good source of those parts?  I'd send it out for a rebuild but I'm getting to the point where I trust myself more than I trust anyone else (cynical, I know).  I can screw things up for free.  :)  



  14. You'll use many tanks of gas no matter how much you drive it, because if it's anything like mine, the gas mileage is nothing to crow about.  :)


    It's worth it though.  Like I tell people when they want to talk about the car (which is always), it's slow but at least it gets 10 miles to the gallon.  None of that matters, however, because it looks great and smells great and is great.  Congratulations on getting it going.

  15. As car people, we tend to want to save everything...but we eventually find out that we shouldn't save everything.  That's why walking around an old junkyard is so interesting but so sad.  Like John said, it's a good parts car for a more solid example if you like the car.  You can use the parts you need and pass on the rest to someone else who might use them.  At $200, you can't lose.  

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