Aaron65
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Posts posted by Aaron65
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That's the one I used. It comes with everything you need. You just will need to clean and install your pickup.
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Worn main, rod, and cam bearing clearances can cause low oil pressure, as can a worn out oil pump. Since you're going to take the pan off, I'd install a new oil pump, and I would definitely verify my oil pressure with another gauge. The other day, I was checking my fuel pressure: one gauge read 3 psi and the other read over 4 psi, which is a big difference in the world of mechanical fuel pumps (in my opinion).
The service manual says that oil pressure should be 40 psi at 1600 rpm (I assume that's with the oil warmed up). After you finish the oil pan/pump, you may want to go up one step on your oil weight. If you're at 10W30 now, maybe try 15W40. I'd have a hard time personally justifying tearing an engine apart for new bearings over 5 psi oil pressure, especially if you don't beat on the car very hard, but that's just my opinion.
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That is the mount I used. It's not a straight up swap, because the original doesn't have the stud on the bottom. The stud sits right between the two original holes on the crossmember, so I just cut a slot in between with an angle grinder. I tried to drill out the back hole to give it more room, but it wasn't enough. Getting the crossmember out is a little more of a pain that I liked, as the bolts holding it to the frame are a little out of the way, and if you add 60 years of grease, it's a miserable job. I did, however, get it done in about two hours in the driveway after work, and it greatly reduced a terrible vibration I had in my seat. The old mount was almost unrecognizable as a transmission mount.
I didn't disconnect the "kickdown" rod at the frame, but I did have it disconnected at the carburetor, because the heads were off at the time. I also had the distributor cap off, so you may want to do that (not pull the heads, but the distributor cap).
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Mine were the Anchor brand. I also used an Anchor transmission mount for a '78 Riviera 403 (after looking at old posts around here - I think RivNut suggested it?), and slotted the transmission crossmember to make it work, thereby saving over 100 dollars. The old one was SHOT, so you may want to look at yours.
My old motor mounts were totally separated...
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I used the Rock Auto mounts on the Riviera and they fit fine. Time will tell if they hold up.
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I jacked it up under "a" with a block of wood between the jack and the pan. Once it was jacked up high enough, I used wood to block up the engine at the motor mounts. Be careful!
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I recently replaced the oil pump and cleaned the pan on my '63 Riviera with the engine in the car. Follow the instructions on the website that Electra63 posted and you should be fine.
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19 minutes ago, jensenracing77 said:
Wow! Mine is nowhere near that bad. At that point, I may have got new foil and made new traces.
Yeah, I should have probably just found another one, but it was winter and the car was going to be sitting anyway, and I had a bunch of tool wire hanging around, so I decided to give it a go.
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In case anyone ever looks at this topic again, I PM'ed Pete about it. After a short trip at higher engine speed, he said that the upper rocker arm orifice on his engine was oiling as it should. I haven't pulled my valve cover to check yet, but I imagine mine will be fine, too.
Thanks to Pete for posting this and getting back to me. -
I'll be 46 in a couple weeks, but I got my first Riviera last October. I've been working on it ever since.
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I just repaired the board in my Riviera. Unfortunately, half of the circuits were damaged! Still, a few hours of work and everything works.
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Pete, did you ever figure this out? I just reassembled the heads/valvetrain on my '63 401, and after running it for about 10 minutes at fast idle, I had a ton of oil coming out the bottom of the rockers and only about half of the rockers had oil seeping out the top oil port. The shafts are definitely oriented correctly with the oil holes pointed down (I assembled them myself with new shafts). My guess is that not a lot of oil is supposed to get to the end of the valve because they didn't use seals (until 1966), and that when the engine is at higher speeds, oil finally gets flung from that upper port to lube the valve tips.
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I stitched a crack in my '53 Buick's block using a kit from Lock N Stitch...The crack was about four inches long and the kit cost about $200 shipped. I have pins and sealer left over, too, and they were very helpful when I had questions.
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This may or may not be your problem, but the major engine gasket sets seem to come with a gasket for the lower oil pump "plate." My machinist installed the gasket, and it increased the clearance between the plate and gears to something like 4.5-5 thousandths, which was out of spec. I had low oil pressure from day one. It took me a few weeks to figure it out, but I pulled the pan, inspected the pump, and found the gasket. After removing it, my oil pressure returned to a normal value on the car's gauge (hot idle oil pressure with my service gauge was no higher than 7 psi before). If your engine was rebuilt, perhaps the rebuilder did the same thing.
My car's a '53, but I believe your oil pump is similar. It might be worth a look when you disassemble it.
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The owner's manual says that they're just auxiliary air outlets for the air conditioner (probably in case your feet are hot)!
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I'm in Michigan and I got mine a few days ago.
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I have been using Google. The closest size sleeve I can find is an SKF 99200, but it seems like it might be a touch too tall. None of the parts websites seem to have a sleeve listed for the 401, and the local employees at the parts stores will likely be little help.
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Does anyone have the part number for the correct speedi sleeve? Thanks!
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12 hours ago, Edwin The Kid said:
I replaced the floor dimmer switch and rebuilt the headlight switch. Dash light and dash dimmer work, still no headlights or power to floor switch wires.
My new-to-me '63 Riviera wasn't turning on the dash lights, so I took the switch apart and made sure the contacts were clean. When I reinstalled it? Nothing. A new switch fixed it. It might be worth popping a known-good switch in there to check (other cars probably used the same switch as the '65 Skylark). Or, you might try running a heavy jumper wire in between the two terminals that lead to the switch to test the rest of the circuit.
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2 hours ago, JanZverina said:
An update on Wix air filter 42092 for a '63 401 Riv w/the OEM air filter housing: Just checked my AMZ orders and still no ETA. I ordered it January 4 so I'm now well into 3-4 week window.
I ordered one from Amazon, too. Still waiting...
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I'm basing my question on this post by Tom Telesco last year, and judging by the sludge I found in the rear of the head/top of the block in this location, it makes sense:
"They are liked because they have a slightly better tendency to stop oil leaks where the oil is feed into the rocker assemblies as they have a SLIGHTLY better sealing in this area as the Felpro gaskets & others as they are a multi layer gasket & oil has a tendency to leak between the layers of gasket material. It's mostly important where the rear hole dead heads at the block in the rear. There is an easy solution to this, BLOCK off the oil hole. IF you measure the length of this hole you will find it's about 2" long. One end starts at the oil hole by the rocker stand the other ends at the head bolt. IF you use a #7 drill to enlarge this hole slightly it can now be tapped for a 1/4" Allen head set screw. Be careful as since this hole is at a slight angle a little material needs to be removed from the opposite end where the stand bolts to the head so the drill goes straight into the hole. Only drill down about 1 1/2". Tap & Install & tighten the set screw. NOW oil can NEVER leak out this hole as it's permanently sealed."
It's not really machine work; I'd just be drilling and tapping a hole to install a set screw, which should be a 20-minute job.
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8 hours ago, XframeFX said:
Why alter oil delivery? Stay with solid pushrods.
I'm not changing the oiling, I'd just be drilling in tapping for a set screw to plug the unneeded rocker shaft oil passage (in the rear of the respective heads) that leads to nowhere at the back of the block (based on some Tom Telesco posts in the past). Since the heads are off, now would be the time to do it.
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Hi everyone,
I found two damaged rocker arms on my 401, and they damaged the valve tips, so I had my machinist do a valve job and replace those two valves (it also needed those two guides). I've been reading about leaking Felpro head gaskets as I prepare to reassemble everything. I previously bought a set of Felpros and a set of Victors, which turned out to be repackaged Felpros.
Anyway, is it worth buying steel head gaskets, or is drilling, tapping, and plugging the rear oil passage in the heads a better bet? I'm not too concerned about the compression loss...I'm not much of a hot rodder. I just want to avoid problems down the road as well as I can.
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I don't believe there's a fuse for the headlights, Jim...it's a circuit breaker in the switch (I believe). Edwin, most of the time when I've had headlight issues, it's been an issue at the dimmer switch, so you may want to get out your test light and check for voltage at the various wires there. If that's not it, I'd start looking at the headlight switch. Do you have a Power Probe at your school? You can use it to power up various circuits to verify that the wiring from one place to another is good. Good luck!
EDIT: Oops, I just noticed that you don't have power to the taillights. That probably rules out the dimmer switch...I'd start at the headlight switch at this point. Do the taillights work when the parking lights are on?
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For Sale: 1964 BUICK LeSabre 4dr Sedan - $7,700 - Latrobe, PA - Not Mine - Still Available, Major Price Reduction to $3,500: 4-24-2023: Screaming Deal Alert!!!
in "Not Mine" Automobiles For Sale
Posted
This car is getting quite a hard time over an air cleaner. I've used open air cleaners on some of my cars for a variety of reasons. Currently, my '63 Riviera has one because you can't buy an air filter for the original air cleaner anywhere I can find. Second, not all carburetors use the same air cleaner base; if this owner is using a newer Edelbrock carburetor instead of the original Rochester or Carter, the original air cleaner won't fit the carburetor. Not everyone is interested in being completely original; they just want to keep their car on the road so they can enjoy it.
It does appear to be missing a transmission dipstick, and the heater control valve is disconnected, so it probably needs a rebuild. But this is a heck of a deal and it should sell soon at that price. It should have the aluminum headed 300, which is a good engine as long as it's made it this long.