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Posts posted by Aaron65

  1. The seized carburetor is going to be your #1 issue.  I'd pull it off the car and start soaking the throttle shaft with PB Blaster or Kroil or something.  Be patient, and start to gently work it back and forth if it starts to free up.  You may end up having to get another carb, but don't worry about that quite yet.  If you can free it up, it's worth putting a carb kit in it, with a new needle and seat and gaskets, mainly so you can clean any accumulated dirt out of it.  This is where reading a shop manual several times will come in handy.  Take your time; it's not complex.


    Next, the points are certainly covered with a coating of corrosion, hence your lack of spark.  It MAY be something else, but that's the most likely.  A doubled up piece of emery paper or a points file (that your dad might have) should clean them up.  Check the gap by rotating the engine so the points open all the way (at the peak of a point cam lobe, doesn't matter which one).  A gap of .016 should be sufficient to get it going.  


    Good luck!

  2. Easy...'65 Catalina Ventura HT, yellow, 389, totally rust free...$3500 negotiable back in 2000.  I was finishing up college and looking for a winter driver so I wouldn't have to drive my '65 Mustang in the salt that winter.  It was far too nice to subject to salt, and I didn't have money for another toy.  That one still haunts me.


    Almost as bad...an almost rust free '70 Chevelle HT, blue with black vinyl top, 307, nice paint and interior...$3900.  This was back in 2003.  I could have afforded it then, but the Chevelle has never been one of my favorites.  Now I wonder what the heck I was thinking.  

  3. I usually use a Q-Tip to dab in touch up paint.  Build it up coat by coat until it's roughly even or a little higher than the rest of the panel.  Then you can use fine sandpaper on something like a popsicle stick to sand it even with the rest of the panel.  I'd start with no rougher than 800 grit and work my way down to 1500 or so.  Then you can use a compound to shine up the repair.  


    I'm sure others will have ideas too, and I normally stop after adding the paint (I'm not much of a perfectionist), but this has worked out for me in the past.

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  4. I get most of my parts for my '53 from Bob's Automobilia in California.




    Kanter and Cars, Inc. are other options, but Kanter sells mostly mechanical parts.  Other than that, I use eBay, Egge machine (for engine stuff), and wherever I can find what I need!  I'm sure you're used to spotty parts availability with your Chrysler, so you know what I'm talking about.  Good luck!  Nice car!

  5. I don't think there's any passage between the coolant temp sensor and any oil passages, but I'd like someone else to back me up on that.  


    At this point, I think it might be worth renting a cooling system pressure tester to pressurize the cooling system and see where the breach is.  If you have a borescope for your smartphone (or just a borescope), you can look in all the cylinders to see if any are leaking.  It seems like you'll probably be doing the head again, this time with a few friends or an engine hoist.  I'm wondering if you damaged the head gasket sliding the head around to get it into position.  It's really heavy!


    If you DO have to remove the head, check the bottoms of all your new lifters for wear.  All of that cranking with no compression (and no oil splash!) isn't good on cams/lifters that are trying to get used to each other.  Good luck!

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