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Posts posted by Aaron65

  1. I would definitely replace those lifters.  If you do, make sure to do a cam break-in just like if you were replacing the camshaft.  Get it started immediately (no excessive cranking, time it precisely the first time), and run it up to 2000 rpm or so for at least 20 minutes.  


    The problem here if you're on a budget?  New hydraulic lifters for a 263 are very expensive.  The ones in your hand, however, are toast.  Are they all like that?  You could get away with just replacing the bad ones (and breaking them in correctly).



  2. I just had a similar problem in my '65 Skylark, but it was intermittent.  I finally pulled the lid, removed the primary venturi cluster (it's an AFB), blew out all passages, and put everything back together with the same gaskets.  Problem solved (for now anyway).  I'd make sure I had some gaskets on hand, but it doesn't take too long to partially disassemble the likely suspects and clean them up.  Heck, you might get away with blowing a little compressed air through the idle needle port in the carb.

  3. There were no "'64 1/2" fastbacks, and as mentioned above, all Mustangs were titled as '65s anyway.  However, two of the main differences between what Mustang enthusiasts call a '64 1/2 and a '65 are the alternator-equipped charging system and some engine changes (no more 260, no more 170, etc.).  The fastback came out later in the model year, and they all had alternators.


    At any rate, the car pictured above is a '65, having a '65 gas cap and '65 wheel covers.

  4. It looks like the 330 is an FE/FT engine, so it would be in the same basic family as a 352/360/390 Ford.  I know there are some differences in the car and truck engines, so I'd head over to ford-trucks.com and ask them what engines would be easiest to swap.  I'd be surprised if you couldn't find a decent running engine without too much difficulty.


    Here's one link I found...



  5. The key to happiness in the old car hobby is lowered expectations.  I'll probably never own the '41 Continental of my dreams, but I have more than a garage load of cool stuff, and other than my '53 Buick ($6500), the most I paid upfront was $4084 (on eBay).  Of course, that's just the beginning of the money spent, but I like working on cars (as frustrating as it can sometimes be).  


    If you're not going to be happy unless you have a mint '69 Camaro or a concours '53 Skylark, of course you're going to feel like the hobby has turned its back on you.  If you keep an open mind and truly just like old cars, you'll find something to suit you.  And if you're worried that the cruise-in crowd is going to bash your business, you're hanging out at the wrong places...  My Dart wagon, which I bought from a salvage yard, draws more admirers than almost anything else I own.  It's a weird old beater and people love it.  


    I cruise craigslist and eBay weekly, and there's always something to trip my breaker.  Last week, I was drooling over a '61 MG Midget online; it was only bid up to $3800.  At a car show/swap meet last week, I saw the coolest '77 Suburban in the world with almost no rust...$5500.  Auburn seeker posts good deals on here all the time.  None of them are LS6 Chevelles, but they look fun nonetheless.  Lowered expectations, friends... :)

    • Like 2

  6. All this talk about stoich is almost certainly accurate, but I do want to verify that stoich on your O2 guage will be 14.7 no matter what gas you're running...it's lambda, or 1.  They set lambda to read 14.7 on the gauge at the factory, so if you're running E10, your gauge will still read 14.7 at stoich.


    Like NTX said, however, you'll find that tuning the car to run the best usually works the best, but the gauge is great for telling you how far out of the game you are, and it takes a lot of guesswork out of choosing jets/idle feed restrictor/air bleed sizes.

  7. https://www.amazon.com/Innovate-Motorsports-MTX-L-Wideband-Ratio/dp/B004MDT8MW


    This is the one I use.  You can buy an "extension cord" and tailpipe clip to transfer it among vehicles if need be; otherwise, you'll have to have a bung welded into your exhaust system.  I check 40-50 mph cruise, 70 mph cruise, and full throttle AFRs, and it will also verify if that sag or bog you're feeling is lean or rich (and how much).  I do not generally use it to set idle (I use vacuum).


    One thing I learned is that you should not try to tune for a specific AFR number.  My Mustang gets nervous when it's leaner than stoich and my Firebird runs just fine.  


    By the way, on these gauges, 14.7 is stoich, no matter what gas you're running.  I called Innovate to check on that.  Therefore, it doesn't matter (according to them) if you are running straight gas, E10, or E85; stoich will show up as 14.7 (because they program that as lambda).  Good luck either way...you can't really tune using plugs for a street car anymore because of the way modern gas burns.  My Firebird's plugs are almost spotlessly clean, and it runs 15.0 on the gauge on the highway with no surging (which is a totally acceptable number).

    • Like 1

  8. 18 minutes ago, carbking said:

    Both of the carburetors above are calibrated from smog engines, and are not compatible with the non-smog 1964 engine.




    I'm running a NOS late-'70s 1945 on my '65 Dart right now, and it runs a lot better than any of the other carbs I've tried.  Granted, my engine is a 225 from a '74 Charger, but someone had disabled the EGR system before I bought the engine, and my car doesn't have a carbon canister or anything.  I checked the AFR with my wideband, and it cruises at around 15:1 and runs maybe 13.7:1 under power (which is a little lean).  As far as driveability is concerned, it runs really well, with no hesitations.  


    I did convert the Dart to an orange box electronic ignition with the distributor from the '74 engine, but that shouldn't make much of a difference over a points ignition.  Just putting an option out there that I've used successfully.  YMMV, as always.  Cars are fickle sometimes.


    Another thing you may want to check: the later carbs are set up for cable throttle linkages.  Someone converted mine at some point in the past, but if yours doesn't use a cable, that could be a problem.  

  9. Here are a couple of seemingly good options for you.  Buy a rebuild kit just in case you need a part along your way (or just go through them and check everything just in case).  The first one is new and the second one is a Holley remanufactured one.  I'd probably go with the NOS, even though the shipping is stupidly expensive.  They both seem to equal about the same price.  There aren't any guarantees in old carbs, but NOS means nobody's messed with it!





    • Like 1

  10. This is one (somewhat older) thread about parts store remanufactured carbs from slant six.org.




    The guy named "Slant Six Dan" is EXTREMELY knowledgeable about all things slant six; he's a really bright guy with a long-time love for these cars, so take his advice seriously when you see it.  I've never heard or read about anyone using the Daytona carb.  It might be worth a call to ask them what it's all about since you don't have much time to play around with getting a carb that works.  One thing I noticed in the thread I linked: many of the people who posted have been through several carbs before they found one that worked well for them.  It seems like a common theme among people who like these engines.

  11. I attended Motor Muster yesterday...what a sad state of affairs.  The car count was down at LEAST half, probably more like two-thirds.  We're usually there for hours, but I think we only made one loop through the show field this time.  Even the crowd was down; I found a parking spot easily, whereas normally there are people parking on the grass and anywhere they can find an opening.  Every president, CEO, and Board of Directors throughout history have found a need to put their stamp on things through change.  Sometimes it's good and sometimes it's bad, but humanity is progress-minded, even when it seems like lateral or backwards progress to many of us.  This one certainly hasn't worked out for car people who enjoyed the show.  My wife buys me a membership every year, largely because of MM and OCF; therefore, if the current trend becomes policy, she can save her money for car parts for me. :)


    I guess I shouldn't be surprised by an organization that changes the name of its prime institution to "The Henry Ford Museum of American Innovation"; never mind that many of the fantastic displays within were not concocted on our shores.  

  12. Don't worry about the main jet being worn; they generally don't wear out unless someone strips the threads or damages them in some way. 


    Have you checked for vacuum leaks at the intake manifold runners (just to rule that out)?  Did you check the number on the main metering jet?  It should be in the 57-58 range.  If it's smaller than that, the jet could be too lean.   


    None of that will cause you squealing, however, so it's possible that your mechanic used an incorrect carburetor base gasket or something.  There are two base gaskets for slant sixes: one has a little hole in it for a vacuum port and the other does not.  Yours should.  If it doesn't, you won't get any vacuum at (I believe) the vacuum advance.  Have you checked the choke pulloff diaphragm to make sure it holds vacuum?  If not, that could cause a major vacuum leak.  


    Your 1920 looks like it's a later emissions carburetor (from the 1970s), just in case you were trying to determine that.

  13. 1 hour ago, Rusty_OToole said:

    I've never had a reman carb that didn't work but have not bought one in 25 years. I can't believe you guys are getting 3 or 4 bad ones in a row. A rebuilt carb should be as good as new if it is done right.


    If the carb was in decent shape to start with, you put the right parts in and adjust everything to factory specs it should work like new. Unfortunately people go getting ideas of their own, or go by the instruction sheet that comes with the carb kit which is incomplete and filled with errors. If you get the factory specs (car factory or carb factory) and put it together exactly as original it should work as original.


    I didn't have that many bad remans in a row; I just had a lot of old carburetors with a lot of problems.  I'm a member of the slantsix.org and forabodiesonly.com forums, and the general consensus on both forums is that remanufactured carburetors for slant sixes are best avoided.  The available carbs were built cheaply, and if you get 50 years of mechanics overtightening things, all mixed up with worn throttle shafts (which they all seem to have by now), it's not as simple as just throwing a kit in it and putting everything back to specs.  The remanufacturers seem to throw them together "close enough" and ship them out the door, which is not "done right," and that's the problem.


    Finally, Holley 1920s are notorious for clogged metering blocks, and they're nearly impossible to clean for the average hobbyist.   Additionally, the fuel bowl and cover warp and are very hard to seal up, which is why I kind of gave up on them.

  14. Slant sixes came with Holley 1920s and 1945s, Carter BBSs, and even Strombergs (for a couple of years).  My '65 Dart came with a remanufactured 1920 on it, and it was garbage.  I finally found a NOS Holley 1945 on eBay and installed it "as-is" and it works great.  It was even in its original box; I just hosed it off with some carb cleaner and it's been running well for over a year now.  


    The unfortunate thing is that there are no really great single-barrel options for the slant six, so you just have to take what you can find and make it work.  I would not go with a reman unless I absolutely had to.  With that being said, it took me about four tries to get a carb I liked; the rest were just flat worn out.  


    If you like Carters, watch out for past mechanics overtightening the carb lid on them; they are very easy to warp and then they leak.  I've tried everything but a Stromberg on mine, and the 1945 was best (but none of them are really all that impressive).  Good luck!



  15. Look at the car very carefully.  If you know old cars, and your name leads me to believe you do, you are part way there...BUT, Corvairs are a bit of a different animal.  Plus, they're pretty easy to find (and comparatively cheap to buy), so it's usually a good idea to find a good one (unless you like working on cars a lot, and there's nothing wrong with that).




    This may be helpful!