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Posts posted by Aaron65

  1. I would also head over to 65gs.com and V8buick.com to talk to them.  The price on anything is largely based on condition, and that is always subject to the whims and caprices of the buyer and often not fully apparent in pictures, for good or for bad. 


    The pictures show that your car is as you said, tired but complete.  It may or may not have a lot of filler in it, but the door gaps look decent, so it's probably structurally solid.  GS convertibles are always popular, so somebody will want it if you decide to sell, as long as you aren't unrealistic in your expectations.  Buicks rarely bring the money of comparable Chevelles and GTOs.  Good luck!

  2. 2 hours ago, Laughing Coyote said:

    I love the lines on that body style T bird. Nice color too.

    The color did it for me, too...as near as I can tell, it's Acapulco Blue, which is a '62 color.  It was originally Diamond Blue, which is very, very light; I can see evidence of that and one other color in various spots around the car, and the current color is by far my favorite of the three.  :)


    • Like 2

  3. Thank you Steve,

    I kind of wondered about that myself; when I posted over there, I just figured that maybe someone would be able to help me with a question or two as their experience dictates, but I probably went overboard for a first post.  I'll check out Squarebirds and start with the most pressing question.  



  4. Thanks, Keiser!


    I guess there isn't a popular T-Bird forum out there; that's kind of unexpected.  All of my cars except this one have at least one robust forum, and it's the T-Bird that doesn't?  :)  Oh well, time to start digging through those shop manuals...if man made it, I can break fix it.

  5. I just bought a '63 T-Bird, and I have a few model specific questions about things like the power steering system, power seats, swing away wheel, and whatnot.  It looks like most of the T-Bird forums are a bit dead...anyone know of a good one that's reasonably well-populated?


    I'll attach a picture of the car; it's pretty awesome.  :)

    '63 T-Bird 1.JPG

    • Like 2

  6. My steering gear leaks all over the place, and has probably 65 years of use under its belt without being touched.  I'd like to take it apart and replace the seals and gaskets at least, and maybe any bearings if I can.  Anyone found a good source of those parts?  I'd send it out for a rebuild but I'm getting to the point where I trust myself more than I trust anyone else (cynical, I know).  I can screw things up for free.  :)  



  7. You'll use many tanks of gas no matter how much you drive it, because if it's anything like mine, the gas mileage is nothing to crow about.  :)


    It's worth it though.  Like I tell people when they want to talk about the car (which is always), it's slow but at least it gets 10 miles to the gallon.  None of that matters, however, because it looks great and smells great and is great.  Congratulations on getting it going.

  8. As car people, we tend to want to save everything...but we eventually find out that we shouldn't save everything.  That's why walking around an old junkyard is so interesting but so sad.  Like John said, it's a good parts car for a more solid example if you like the car.  You can use the parts you need and pass on the rest to someone else who might use them.  At $200, you can't lose.  

    • Like 1

  9. I picked up an old Sun oscilloscope from a local dealer for $50 a few years ago, and I'm able to check dwell variation pretty easily.  My Dart's old distributor had something like 6% dwell variation, compared to 2% for the used Chrysler electronic distributor that came with a used engine I bought.  


    Either way, as mentioned above, a dwell check is also in order as points plates can wear out, distributor cams can wear, etc., etc...

    • Like 1

  10. Quote
    7 hours ago, 50jetback said:

    I did ask about distributor wear and he said it was worn on the shaft/bushings. I had thought this wear would have resulted in a more generalised misfire across both cylinder banks but Aaron 65 information indicates it may be more noticeable on the left hand bank and I would be interested in further thoughts re this - Willy??




    My thought on this (and I don't own anything with a Nailhead) is that the points' opening and closing is a game of thousandths of an inch.  If the bushings are worn and the shaft wobbles to one side of the distributor based on cam gear load, it's possible that the distributor cam doesn't engage the points as far on the opposite side of the distributor.  A good test might be to tighten up the points a few thousandths to see if it gets better (and afterward loosen them, because I suppose the opposite could be true, that they're opening too much on one side).

    • Like 1

  11. I've done this, and I did have to jack the engine up.  I followed the manual's instructions and it went fine.  It didn't take more than a few minutes to get it unbolted, jacked up, and resting on the motor mount through bolts.


    If you have a jack and a wood block, you do have the means to raise the engine enough to do the job.  The key is to spread out the weight with a reasonably sized wood block so you don't crush the pan.

  12. The 263 has blind head bolt holes, so the head bolts shouldn't need sealer.  You can double check by sticking a pick (or maybe an air attachment hooked to your air compressor) down in the bolt holes just to verify (and who knows if the engine is original?).  At any rate, when I reinstalled the head on mine back when I first got it, I did some research and found that 248s and 320s have open head bolt holes on the driver's side, but 263s did not.  


    On another note, Permatex #2 and #3 (which is the bottle you show) are my go to sealers for all kinds of jobs.  Either will work fine on threads going into oil or water.

  13. Run whatever cap came with the car originally, which was PROBABLY a 15 lb. cap.  As others have mentioned, a higher pressure cap will do nothing more than find a weak heater core or hose fitting.  


    You say that the radiator is half empty.  Is your cap on the left or right side of the radiator?  If so, it's a crossflow radiator and the tank under the cap will probably look like the water is roughly 4-6 inches down from the cap.  This is fine.  If you add more antifreeze, it will puke it out if it is too high, as you have found.  Now if it is truly half empty, you will be adding a gallon of antifreeze mix each time.  If you are doing THAT, then you have another problem.

  14. I wonder if someone at some point used some gorilla snot (weatherstrip adhesive) or something to seal those plugs.  Maybe (carefully!) try a little heat around the edges to help get everything pliable again if nothing else works.


    Did you try pushing them in with a large socket on the inside (one that just fits inside the flange)?  Don't worry about driving them in; you can retrieve them easily from the water jacket.

  15. I absolutely love my '53 Special; however, I would suggest buying a V8 car.  The speed limit on one of my local freeways was just increased to 75 mph, and people regularly drive 85.  Others have disagreed with me, but it is my opinion that running over 70 mph in one of the old straight 8 cars is asking for trouble; the car just doesn't feel comfortable at that speed.  It will do it for sure, but a V8 car was built for that kind of driving.  Like Rusty said, there's a BIG difference between a '53 model and a '57 model almost anything.  


    When I drive on the freeway, I judge a car's "freewayworthiness" by my speed when I'm not paying attention to the speedometer.  If it sometimes creeps up to 80, it's a good freeway car.  If I end up at 55-60, it's not.  My '53 is not.  

  16. I don't think I'd trust an average counterperson to match up a plug to another model these days...maybe one of the older guys if I really trusted him.  A couple of the guys at my local Auto Value could.  Either way, an NGK "4" MAY be a bit hot for an engine that originally used an AC 46, but chances are you don't drive the car very hard anyway.