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Aaron65

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Posts posted by Aaron65

  1. Yeah, I figure it will be a savings of several hundred dollars at least when everything's added up; but perhaps more importantly, I think it will drive a lot nicer with radials.  It's the only car I own with bias ply tires, and while I'm certainly used to it and don't mind it, it might be nice if the car didn't have such a mind of its own on grooved highways and over ruts left by Michigan's heavily loaded trucks.

  2. They are bias-ply tires...The car certainly sits a fair share throughout the year, but I drive it enough that the tires don't flat spot.  The Coker website recommends the same thing as the other suppliers/manufacturers, to replace tires every 10 years.  Just for education's sake, why would a bias ply last longer?

     

    Thanks for the link to the trim rings!

  3. My beloved '53 Special (not the one shown below) will probably need new tires next year, as its Coker Classics are 10 years old. I drive the car at least 750 miles a year, so I was thinking of saving the $750 or so and just going with some blackwall radials, and I was thinking about doing something along the lines of a car I saw on v8Buick.com (pictured below). Mine sits at stock height, but I'm considering some dog dish hubcaps with either the "Buick" script or wide spaced block lettering and some trim rings. It looks like CARS, Inc. sells a reproduction set, but they're $400. My car is quite nice, but not 100% perfect, so if anyone has a nice driver quality set they'd be willing to part with, I'm in the market. Thanks for listening!

    '53 Special trim rings 2.jpg

  4. 2 hours ago, auburnseeker said:

    Probably doesn't help they took Votech/ shop class out of schools,  so guys don't know a thing about mechanical work or even how to wet their feet for those that aren't born into a Mechanical family.  It's easier for the counselors to push college degrees in liberal arts than to see the value in teaching a trade. 

     

    I'm a high school liberal arts teacher, and you're mostly right, but most schools are pushing STEM degrees (science, technology, engineering, math), at least in Michigan.  Unfortunately, few of these students (at my school anyway) are truly interested in anything mechanical.  Those who want to be engineers seem to go into it, to some extent, due to the perception of a comfortable lifestyle more than any burning interest in how things work (not that I blame them).  The medical field seems really popular right now.  Times change...  Cars are more reliable, so you don't have to get to know them by working on them on a regular basis.  Most schools don't have auto shop (which is partially a chicken and egg deal), so they're not exposed to cars there.  I think quite a few kids like the modern stuff, some like older stuff, but it's never going to be like it was when my dad was a kid, or even when I was a kid, when 5.0 Mustangs were really popular.   

     

    This year's graduating class had a refreshing number of kids going into the trades, like welding and construction.  Few mechanics.  I'd still say it was under 10 percent.  I hope things get better in the future; I try to sell the trades to interested students whenever I can.

    • Like 3
  5. I too am using Remflex gaskets on my '53, and Matt is correct in saying that they are a huge improvement over anything else (at least in my experience).  I think the main reason they're so good on the straight 8 is that they're thick enough to allow movement but not break the seal.  The top layers of my gaskets are a little scrunched up, but they don't leak.  

  6. A lot of condensation builds up in a crankcase, especially with a road draft system.  If your road draft tube has any rust in it, which it probably does, thanks to the aforementioned condensation, the water that drips from it will look like oil.  If you're truly concerned that it could be antifreeze, the first thing I'd do is rent a radiator pressure tester from a parts store, follow the instructions, and see what you come up with.  If it's running well and not running hot, then you probably just need to take a longer drive to get the oil really hot.  15 minutes around town won't do it.  

     

    Regarding engine vacuum: If you connected your gauge to the port for the vacuum advance, there's a good chance it's a timed port, meaning it doesn't see vacuum until the throttle is cracked open.  

    • Like 2
  7. There isn't one!  I found this out the hard way when I had the rear end refreshed; the pumpkin gasket kept leaking as a result of the pressure.  I solved the problem by replacing one of the back cover bolts (up high) with a large brake bleeder screw, which I connected to a long hose and a fuel filter (to keep dirt out) and tied up somewhere under the car.  It didn't help that the pumpkin gasket folded funny when the shop reinstalled it.  Needless to say, I used RTV and sealed it up, and it hasn't leaked since.  

     

    The only conclusion anyone I've ever talked to (including myself) could come up with was that the old axle seals were not lip seals, they were felt, and they must have allowed some pressure in/out.  

  8. On 2/27/2019 at 7:13 PM, John Byrd said:

    Pomeroy, we had a black Taurus MT 5, and I still have never seen another one.  Folks usually look blank when I mention it, but I really liked that car. It was an 86 I think.  Do you know anything about that model ?  That is a great story you have posted, thanks for telling it !  Naturally the only pic I have of it has a smear on the side where the emblem was.  I was trying to make a different looking center grille plate for the car when I took this pic... didn't turn out too well, ha !

    86 taurus.jpg

     

    I had a friend in high school whose family drove a medium red MT5 wagon!  There couldn't have been many of those...I think I rode in it once, and it was a bit weird to see a "modern" wagon with a manual transmission.

    • Like 1
  9. Of course, your results may vary (i.e. don't blame me if something goes wrong), but I think you'll be OK if you used the Remflex gaskets (as long as everything lined up when you installed it).  Do a vacuum test...if the engine pulls 18" or more steadily, it's probably fine.

    • Thanks 1
  10. I can't help you on the brakes, but if your carburetor is in decent shape, I would rebuild it rather than replace it.  You will have to tune any new carburetor to suit your engine, AND you will have to ensure all the linkage adapts properly.  On the other hand, your Riviera likely has the original Carter AFB on it, which was tuned to your specific engine (the carb number is usually on the passenger side front of the carb if you want to check).  If it's in good shape, no new carburetor will likely work any better than that one.  Original AFBs are great carbs.  Even if you have to send it out to a trusted rebuilder (if you are at all mechanical, it's a fairly easy job doing it yourself), you will probably save money, too.

     

    Another thing...1963 Rivieras use Dynaflow transmissions, not Powerglides...totally different transmission.

     

     

  11. Excuse my ignorance, but why does the later torque tube have a rear u-joint?  Is the tube itself angled to clear the floor?  I've looked at Bernie's picture of a disassembled torque tube, but I think I'm still missing the point...My '53 only has one at the front.

  12. I've got a call or two out, but in case those don't pan out...does anyone have a good source for individual pieces of beltline window fuzzies?  The ones with the stainless strip at the top?  I need a 4-foot piece for the door panel on my '63 Thunderbird, and I remember having an easier time the last time I searched for it.  Maybe my memory is flawed.  Anyway, any suggestions are appreciated.  Thanks!

     

    Aaron

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