auburnseeker

I have an NOS RH front fender for a 1972 Chevy Full size car still in the GM box I would like to get $350 for and a beautiful rechromed front bumper that was never installed for a 1948-1949 Cadillac I'm looking to get $500 for. I would trade either or both for other NOS car parts for Fomoco Mopar GM or older indepnedents (smaller parts though) I'm headed to the Fall Hershey meet so I can deliver the parts there at no charge.

I'm always looking to add something different to my collection. Just sold off my 1948 Cadillac so I have space and means at the moment. Anyone out there liquidating any of there cars. I like all kinds of cars 1930-1960's Wagons are nice I haven't had one of those yet that was usable. A convertible would be nice as well. Cars needing a little work are fine. I've learned to avoid those needing total resurrection. The more unusual the car the better. Current stable includes a 57 Tbird, 56 Olds hardtop, 36 Chrysler roadster, and a pair of 32 Fords. All drivable except the 36 Chrysler, Getting there though. maybe a few more weeks.

The prime to paint times varied as on all my projects. Some things were painted within an hour others had atleast a few days. I try to paint outside when possible to avoid messing up everything else in my shop. I didn't use any sealer over the primer. As I mentioned before everything was done the way I had been doing it with no problems for the last 3 years. Blast, Clean, Prime, Paint, Clear. I followed all the directions on the cans allowing atleast the minimum amout of cure time suggested before top coating. The part I put about ignoring the cautions was purely on teh Mother's Aluminum polish. I have been using that stuff for 20 years and swear by it for almost everything. Hands down the best polish for the money available everywhere. The red Oxide was duplicolors brand and I allowed the proper dry time on that. Infact 2 mouldings were done without the red oxide primer and they have the same problem as the rest so I'm positive it isn't a problem with the red oxide. Rustoleum I have been using on my Chassis and black engine components only. I actually know a few Good body men who love the stuff. It goes on well dries hard and beats alot of other stuff I have tried. Probably not as deadly as half the stuff they have out there now. Again the only parts I have had a problem with were those coated with the etching primer after that date. There is such a vast difference in the times between blasting priming and painting that the only constant is the primer. Leads me to look there first. I know companies are always changing stuff around to try to meet ever more stringent VOC's. I think something may have been done along those lines but that's just a suspicion. I'm not a novice to painting. Not a pro either but I'v done enough to know what not to do. When in doubt I ask my friends who have shops and they are all leaning on teh primer problem. Who know's. Wish I did and would have before the job. That's alot of work to throw away not to mention the material cost. I appreciate the input though. I'm always eager to listen so my projetcs will come out better than before.

I thought like you did with a humdity problem but the parts were all coated over the course of a month on sunny days outside and I was careful to not prime on real humid days. I believe it still falls on teh primer as only primered parts developed the problem. Not a single unprimed part shows any problem. For the woodgraining I blasted everything to bare clean steel. I cleaned with prepsol degreaser just to be sure my hands didn't leave any trace of oils. I primed with teh Duplicolor primer. (use a different primer) I then reprimed with a like color primer to my basecoat as it took alot of paint to cover the gren tinted primer. I skim filled and sanded out pits then reprimed until I was satisfied I had a smooth surface. I then resanded smooth wiped it down and applied my bas paint coat i picked from the Grainit color chart. I picked my plate and used the mahogany ink printing the image on the parts. I did screw up and had to redo a few spots I wasn't happy with. I then let the ink dry. It took over a week. I eventually had to put it in my wifes truck and let it bake in the sun. Once it was dry I had to do the smear coat with the "toner" they provided. This gives the grain the rich color and goes on just like a wood stain. They suggest VIVA paper towels and be sure to use them as the other brands are courser and will actually take your graining off if you're not careful. Again I had to bake this in teh sun for a few days. After that was done I applied the Upol #1 Clear they suggested. Goes on well but do it in the shade. It sets fast and you can get tiny are bubbles that don't blend well if it dries to fast. I actually applied a few coats of this until I was happy I had a heavy build. This takes awhile to get hard but sets up fast. I then wet sanded and buffed everything with 1500 grit paper working my way to 3000 grit for an easier time buffing. I used 3M perfect it but honestly I've used mother's polish for mag and aluminum buffing and it works pretty slick. Ignore the cautions on the can I use it on everything. The finish is waht you see in the photos. Most is suggested by the grainit people on their website. The smaller kits aren't real expensive. As I mentioned before it took more paint than suggested. But red oxide primer is really close to the brown orange color I used on my base so it took very little to cover that. Overall I was real happy with the project just not the rust problem from the primer. It does take alot of time though. That's why it's so expensive to have done.

I just wanted to add. I got a bunch of new cans to prime my dash. The wheels I primed were done from cans of primer I already had. New batch new problem.

I did everything I was suppose to including sandblast all the parts to bare metal, prepsol the surface then coated with Duplicolor self etching primer. Various days at various temperatures over the course of a month (that I think was the mistake) I had used the product faithfully for the last few years and really liked it's results. I believe they may have changed the product or supplier. I have been in contact with them and they think it must be a different problem. All I know is everything I did after say April 1of 2010 has developed tiny rust pimples under the primer. Everywhere not just in spots. Everything before that date is still fine. I have even asked several Body shop friends and they said seems like the product. (I Don't know if there is a moisture contamination in the product or if there may have been a change in the formlua that causes it to suck moisture out of the air when it's sprayed or? It is aerosol based so it's not an issue with contaminated air supply. It didn't seem to matter what I topcoated it with wether it be all the products sold by the wood graining company or plain old black rustoleum with an eastwood clear everything done after that date with the primer failed. Surprisingly everything done with no primer. Engine brackets and what not are all fine. I got a run around from the tech advisor at duplicolor. I don't believe he understood what the problem was. He didn't get to see the the problem in person. They did offer to refund the $60 I paid for the primer. I was actually looking for the answer to my problem not a refund of the money on the primer. I have over $100 in clear coat one everything not to count the base colors. I even used a similar filler primer in red oxide by duplicolor to help my paint go further as the green self etching primer was hard to cover. The tech representative thought I wasn't getting enough primer coverage. I want to state I did not use the primer sold by Grainit. I now wish I would have. I really like their products and am completely happy with the kit. Again I think the problem lies in the primer I used and I would suggest using a different kind of primer as this one didn't work for me. Possibly use grainit's primer if you use the rest of their product just to insure compatability. I know I was furious to discover this problem 2 months ago after just getting everything installed back in the car. The clear and top paints would insure that the surface is sealed so I still believe the problem is somehow related to the primer. Just my opinnion though. If anyone else has had this problem let me know. I know the rims I painted just before this on my car with the same primer look like they were sprayed yesterday, along with everything else done prior to that date.

:DI just thought I would add the photos of my woodgraining I mentioned back in the beginning of this thread. Unfortunately I have a problem with my primer so I will have to strip and redo it all but This is how it looks now all back in the car. The car is a 1936 Chrysler Airstream roadster. I know the pattern isn't correct for my car but I picked what I wanted. A tigered maple grain in mahogany tones.

The guy that won the Cadillac looks pretty happy. Must have done better than the others to score a Caddy!.

I believe these were used on Harley Davidson motorcycles or service cars in the 40's-50's. With a clear lense they were used as GM optional backup lights in the 1940's. There are some on Ebay right now with the real descriptiona and application. but I think I'm pretty close.

I did Come up with the original part number of 382998. It also fits Desoto 6 1936. It was used as well on the 8 cylinder 1936 Chrysler. Still looking for one though. I checked a few sources and no luck yet.

Looking to buy NEw Old Stock, Reproduction or NORS front motor mount for 1936 Chrysler 6 cylinder C7 Airstream. If anyone can help me out or point me in the right direction that would be very appreciated.

I bought the full professional kit and did my 1936 Chrysler airstream roadster. (intended to do a few friends cars as well) Overall I was pretty impressed with the results. Dry times for the inks seemed to take much longer than stated. It was suppose to take 2 days I think. It was 70 plus degrees for 2 days and the ink didn't want to dry. It eventually took a week to dry and I had to stick it in my wives truck with the windows rolled up in the sun for 2 days to get it to fully cure. The clear coat they recommend dries fast but takes atlest a week or 2 to really cure hard. You can leave finger prints in it even after a few days of curing if you press hard. Took alot more base coat paint than they recommended as well. It took 3 cans to do a roadster, After I switched to like color primer. Still a good product, I would recommend.

I have a 1956 Olds 88 2 door hardtop delete everything except backup lights. I've had for 19 years with a factory Column shift 3 speed. My first old car and I still have it.

That didn't come through with the address completely correct but if you google that you should come up with it.

I found this site some time ago for identifying radio delete plates but it's got wonderful dashboard shots of all makes from the 1930's on up. Sorry nothing on it in the 1920's but still an awesome reference site. Deletes - Identifying Instrument Panels, Clusters & Gauges

I think I may have things almost figured out now. I did notice it cooled best when I had the thermostat in it. Not just the gutted one but the 160 degree one. I actually think the water is flowing through the system (radiator too fast) I have heard of this before. I put the 160 back in and it ran cooler. It got very warm but didn't overheat. I ran it for almost 50 minutes at the shop at idle almost the entire time. I did notice the radiator temperature to be cooler now at the bottom than it was before. I even got daring and drove it about 12 continuous miles today. 55 miles an hour almost all the time up a one mile long hill and although it did run about 200 or so at the hottest point it didn't boil over. I'm running only water at the moment so I know it didn't break 210. I think the next step is to restrict the water flow a little more with another stat and see if I can get it into a more favorable range. I did advance the timing as well but it's now where it was to begin with. I do appreciate the help and advice. It gave me alot of things to rule out. Hopefully I'm on the down hill side of the problem, Randy

I did mess with the timing today. My manual says to just set timing at the IGN line on the damper. Which I did do. It was actually advanced the way it was. Factory setting seemed to retard it some. Does anyone have anything better for a number to set it at. Shouldn't it be a few degress off? I did take my vacuum advance off and check that. It is working and not seized, I also checked my engine numbers and the engine is matching numbers so it is what came in the car new, Not a surplus tank engine. I still have to advance the timing ahead more than the factory setting and see if that makes a difference. I did check to see if it was automatically advancing when the engine is revved and it does. I do appreciate all the ideas. I'm willing to try just about anything at this point. Oh still overheating. Thanks again, Randy

I appreciate the responses. The radiator does flow out the bottom as fast as I can fill it and that's with a high pressure hose on full action. I did examine all the cores I can see and 2 have blockage that even rodding(I was able to get a control cable from an air vent down them will not loosen) I can actually see about 75 percent of the cores through the thermostat hole in the back of the top radiator tank. Even with those 2 the radiator cores not flowing it still flows very fast and actually sucks the water out like a good clean drain when it is just about empty. In my area the work I did on the radiator surpasses what any of the local shops will do. Every time I have taken stuff to them to fix I have to redo it myself. All they do is a quick boil and bad paint job. I did check the radiator cap size out early in the game. It is running the correct RC1 7 pound cap. The rubber is still intact and seals but I may replce it just as a matter of course to eliminate one other factor. I did not run the engine number to see if it is the original cars engine. I will check the timing. Who knows. The only other thing I can think of is the guy I bought it from said he thought his brother did a valve job. Maybe he put one of the head gaskets on wrong and plugged a water hole. (I have new head gaskets already coming) Again thanks for all the ideas. I'll get it back together and do a little more diagnostic.

I forgot to mention I also pulled the thermostat back out and punched the center out then reinstalled it. Still no difference. The engine will cool slightly when going down a real long hill. It takes about 25 minutes at idle to heat all the way to the boiling point. You can't seem to get the temperature to drop at all when standing still even with the engine at say 1500 or so Rpms. It just consistantly slowly goes up and doesn't come down. No bubbles in the radiator or steam /white smoke from the tail pipe. Seems to have plenty of power and pickup on the highway.

I have a 1948 Cadillac Series 62 with the original flathead Cadillac engine. Supposably turnkey when I bought it. I even Checked it out and listened to it run. It was raining when I looked at it so I decided not to take it for a test drive. ( Never buy a car in the Rain) After buying it and Getting it home. I checked everything over. Let it run for 15 minutes or so then took it for a short test drive. After about a 3-4 mile run at 55 MPH ( I took it slower at first) It began getting warm. I decided to turn around and head back to the shop. It started boiling over just as I pulled back in the shop. I shut it down. I moved it a few minutes later( still hot) and it started right up. I drained the radiator and found no Thermostat. ( It must have overheated for the past owner as well which he conveniently neglected to mention. I pulled the Radiator and thuroughly cleaned it. I drained and flushed the block and all the heaters. Then put all new hoses on it. Put a new 160 Thermostat in it. Left it with just water and ran it. Same problem. I got engine flush and ran that through it. Then Removed the hoses and ran water through everything until the water flowed clear with the bottom radiator hose off. Excellent flow in the radiator and left side of the block. Not quite as good on the right. Put it all back together and same problem. I even checked the engine with a pin point digital Heat gun in several locations at a temperature of 175 and everything was within 5 degrees. No hot spots. I Pulled the water pump and it looks like new with no damage to the impellor. I even backflushed through the waterpump hole. I did a Compression check as well and have 100 lbs on every cylinder. What should I do next? Any ideas would be welcome. Thanks in adavnce, Randy :confused:

I didn't think Iwould have missed the plugs when I looked everything over but after getting the lights apart the plugs had actually been pushed in past the edge of the bucket so it looked like the wires actually went right to the sockets. I did see the plugs when I got the headlights apart but I'm pretty sure atleast one of them wouldn't have come out to get apart without gutting the buckets. That would have made it alot easier If they had been visible. I need to take everything apart and replace the rubber seals to the grille shell anyways. Might as well do it right while I'm in there. Thanks for the input though. Everyday seems to be a learning experience on this one. Does anyone know where to get hubcap skins for a 1936 Chrysler C7? Randy

I have an NOS one in the GM box I just listed on Ebay. It's listed as item number 400136326351 You can bid or if you need it sooner we can work something out. Randy

That did the trick. It took a little persuasion but I got them apart. You have to use a screw driver as well to gently pry the lense from the gasket as it was pretty stuck. Nice Auburn by the way. That's what I was looking for when I settled for the Chrysler. Well I guess I atleast get the Auburn Experience with the headlights. Thanks again. It was a life saver. Randy

Thanks for the help. That sounds like it might do the trick. I'll try it tommorrow morning when I go to the shop. Thanks again, Randy

You can also narrow your search by putting the title of the item you are searching in quotations like "1991 Reatta" I had the same problem on ebay and after contacting their useless help links I finally got that answer from an email response they sent me. Hope it helps you out, Randy