sleeve-valve

The shop manual has more details and specs, but basically to test the output of the generator on the 39 buick, hook up a jumper wire between the Field terminal on the regulator (which comes from Field on generator) and ground. This stops the regulator from functioning. Then connect a voltmeter between the Gen contact on the regulator (which comes from the armiture on the gen) and a ground and run the engine. If the gen is putting out, it should show on the voltmeter.

I do not polarize the gen after battery disconnect and reconnect. I always disconnect the battery when the car is in the garage (39 Buick) and have never had to polarize. I polarize after replacing a generator, not usually needed after replacing the regulator. If a car is not charging, I'll polarize the generator as part of the diagnosis procedure after checking the gen for output.

Hello Gary: Here's 2 pictures. The flat side goes into the crank, facing the front of the car, the dished side to the rear. It measures about 1 5/8 diameter with a 9/16 hole and is about .050 thick. Hope this helps. Dave

Wanted: Delco Generator #1102670 6 volt, for 1948 GMC 248 1.5 ton.

Hello Gary: I just happen to have my 39 Special engine apart for a rebuild. Here's a picture of the crank end with the pilot bearing just removed. I measure right on 1 3/32" with a good scale that goess down to 64ths. I don't have anything more accurate than the scale so I can't get down to thousanths but it looks right on 1 3/32 to me. Hope this helps. Dave

Where are you located?

Thanks for the reply. That's a little too low, PM sent.

Make reasonable offer if interested. I'd like to see this car go to someone who will preserve it!

Make reasonable offer if interested. I'd like to see this car go to someone who will preserve it!

** SOLD ** 3.8 V6 automatic. Runs great and drives very well, everything works except power antenna. Well maintained since new. Only 51,300 original miles. Black with Red velour interior. Interior in excellent original condition. Has been in my family since new, all elderly owners which is why there are low miles. Have original invoice for $21,800. The car was partially repainted years ago due to the GM bad paint recall, only the top surfaces were repainted, not the sides, so there are still a few areas on the sides where the paint is worn. The car has never been hit or damaged, it is very solid and straight, the only rust being very minor on the bottom of the front doors. Has power windows, power door locks, power driver’s seat, remote trunk release, anti-lock brakes. Has the climate control system which works fine, the A/C has been retrofit and blows cold. Has original AM/FM/Cassette, overhead console, center console, tilt and cruise. Tires are excellent, brakes are excellent. Just inspected, RI inspection sticker good until 6/2014. There don’t seem to be many 88 Electra T-types around. Located in Northern RI. $3000. Email for more pictures or information. buick2@cox.net

** SOLD ** 3.8 V6 automatic. Runs great and drives very well, everything works except power antenna. Well maintained since new. Only 51,300 original miles. Black with Red velour interior. Interior in excellent original condition. Has been in my family since new, all elderly owners which is why there are low miles. Have original invoice for $21,800. The car was partially repainted years ago due to the GM bad paint recall, only the top surfaces were repainted, not the sides, so there are still a few areas on the sides where the paint is worn. The car has never been hit or damaged, it is very solid and straight, the only rust being very minor on the bottom of the front doors. Has power windows, power door locks, power driver’s seat, remote trunk release, anti-lock brakes. Has the climate control system which works fine, the A/C has been retrofit and blows cold. Has original AM/FM/Cassette, overhead console, center console, tilt and cruise. Tires are excellent, brakes are excellent. Just inspected, RI inspection sticker good until 6/2014. There don’t seem to be many 88 Electra T-types around. Located in Northern RI. $3000. Email for more pictures or information. buick2@cox.net

I already have good, correct drums (thanks for the safety suggestion). I'm just finishing a complete brake job including sleeved original Delco master and wheel cyls, new shoes all around, and adjustment by the manual. The brakes seem to be real good now, for 1939 anyway! At this point I'd like to ID this drum and get it to someone who can use it.

This brake drum was on a rear wheel of my 1939 Buick Special but it is not correct for it. It is for 12 inch x 1 3/4 inch shoes like the 39 Special but the end that goes inwards towards the car has a different flange (see photo). It would only work on the 39 Special with a spacer between the drum and the axle else the drum would rub against the backing plate. The bolt holes and the 2 piece construction are the same as the 39 Special, the only difference being the shape of that flange on the inward side. What is it from?

This brake drum was on a rear wheel of my 1939 Buick Special but it is not correct for it. It is for 12 inch x 1 3/4 inch shoes like the 39 Special but the end that goes inwards towards the car has a different flange (see photo). It would only work on the 39 Special with a spacer between the drum and the axle else the drum would rub against the backing plate. The bolt holes and the 2 piece construction are the same as the 39 Special, the only difference being the shape of that flange on the inward side. What is it from?

My Dad bought a new 78 Pontiac Phoenix with the 6cyl automatic. Every day on his way home from work it would stall out going up the same hill. The dealer could not fix it. A neighbor had a 78 Phoenix with the V-8 that had no problems. Dad had bought strictly GM since the 1950s but he never bought GM again after that 78.

I have one marked 2103F on the left rear of the car that seems to work fine and doesnt leak, the one on the right rear leaks and is unmarked so I don't know what it is. I have a used 2103A and 2103B that are not on the car and I dont know how good they are, so I'm thinking I can either rebuild A and B or look for a E and rebuild it. If I knew one pair was better I'd go that route, otherwise I'll just rebuild A/B and have an original matched pair.

My parts book lists them as 2103A and 2103B. Other places like Apple Hydraulics website lists them as 2103E and 2103F. An older post says the E and F are replacement Delco numbers. What is the difference between the A/B and E/F? Is one pair considered better to use than the other? Thanks.

Frank: Here are the flywheel specs for the 1939 40 servies from my 39 service manual: Weight with ring: 36 lbs. Inside dia. of flywheel ring: 13.293"-13.297" Diameter of flywheel at ring: 13.301"-13.304" Number of teeth on flywheel: 146 Flywhl. teeth pitch diametral: 10 My flywheel is on my work bench, easy to see all the details, since my engine is disassembled and I'm prepping it for rebuild. I would be glad to chat with you if would like to get more details about it, send me a PM and I can give you my phone #. Dave

The flywheel ring on my 1939 40 series has 146 teeth. Sorry, nothing for sale here.

We are in Northwest RI and we just got all our utilities back after 4 days without power, telephone or internet. Not everyone in this area has power back yet. No damage to our old vehicles. Thanks for thinking of us!

Thanks all for the info!

My parts book goes up to 1941 and it doesnt match any in there.

I have a crankshaft that I would like to make sure is right for my 1939 40 series. The number cast on the crank is 1307660. This number does not match the part number in my parts catalog for 1939 or any other year. Is that the right one for the 39 Special?

That is a very good suggestion for most vehicles, but surprisingly my 21 Stearns-Knight owner's manual does not mention anything about tire pressure. Not sure if that was common practice at the time or not. See Universal's tire catalog at http://www.universaltire.com/pdf/uvt-catalog.pdf, it has a section 'High Pressure Tire Inflation & Load Scale' which shows recommended pressure based on tire width and load for these high pressure tires. I still would not exceed the max on the side of the tires or if the tire has no max on it, I would not exceed the max rating of the new tires of the same size.

My 1922 Dyke's Manual says to run them at 70-75 psi. The new 34 x 4.5 BF Goodrich cords being sold by Coker say load capacity 1250 lbs at 65 psi on the Coker website. Check to see if there is a max load rating on your tires and be sure not to exceed that. My tires are getting old and don't have any max ratings on them. I run mine at 65 psi with good results.