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sleeve-valve

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Everything posted by sleeve-valve

  1. The left front hubcap on my 1959 Ford would often fly off. A few years ago it was run over by a car going the other way. I thought it would be a pancake but it really didn't look damaged. It was tight getting back on but has not fallen off since!
  2. I searched Google Images for all combinations of the years and makes that the lens fit and could not find anything close. I found this picture, I think it is a Daniels Submarine Speedster or Roadster from the early 1920s. The headlights look like a possible match, with different lenses of course. What do you think?
  3. Each headlight is 11 inches diameter, 6 1/2 inches deep, mounts on forks that are 9 1/4 inches apart OC. The rim is held on to the bucket with 2 pins. The reflector has holes for 2 bulbs. On the lens: 'Brown Stabilite Head Lamp Fixed Focus The John W. Brown MFG Co Columbus OHIO USA' also 'Designed for Mazda No. 1110 I.G.C. Pat Applied for. A-12 Made in USA 8 11/16 x 9 7/16 444 CB 1721'. Thanks.
  4. If you are an odd ball, then I am too. My daughter was looking for a particular late model Subaru. She did a lot of online research but I insisted we go in person. The first one we looked at, that she was ready to buy from online only research, looked good but on the test drive the suspension and drivetrain felt very loose, maybe a lot of off road use. The next one was tight, felt like it was never abused. She bought the second one and is still happy with it 2 years later.
  5. This is how I browse the forums, maybe this will help some, maybe just confuse things more, but here goes: I am on a windows PC using Chrome browser, this probably works on many other machines and browsers, probably not on some. I go to the main forum page and scroll down to the sub forum I want to see. Then do a right mouse click, open in new tab. For example right click, open in new tab on 'Not Mine Automobiles for Sale'. I then click on that tab that just opened, and view individual threads of interest in the same way, by right click, open in new tab. When done with a thread or sub category I close it's tab, but always leave the original tab open, the main forum page that shows all the sub forums. This leaves the original main page in place that I can go back to at any time to open more sub forums. This way I always work off the main page, for example view the 'Not Mine Automobiles for Sale' in new tab, look at a few, close it. Then go back to the main page, page down, right click on 'Buick - Pre War', view it in new tab, close it, back for more off the forum home page. And do the same for all sub forums of interest. This works for me, maybe will help others. Does anyone else have an orderly 'system' they use for browsing this forum? Similar to covering swap meets in an orderly fashion instead of random rows ☺️
  6. I think that is just outside Bryce Canyon NP, across from Best Western Ruby's Inn.
  7. Update: These books have been taken and are no longer available. Lot of Early 1920's Books: Everyman's Guide to Motor Efficiency 1922, Questions and Answers relating to Modern Automobile Design and Construction Driving and Repair Victor Page 1921, Gasoline Automobiles Moyer 1921, Brookes Automobile Handbook 1921, Hallock's Starting and Lighting Systems of Automobiles 1921, Audels Automobile Guide 1922, Gasoline Automobiles 1922 Floyd Clymer reprint, Motor Vehicle laws 1921 CT, Motor Vehicle Laws 1921 RI. All free shipped as one lot via USPS Media Mail.
  8. You could post it on the stovebolt forums, there may be interest there: https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm
  9. Here is a picture of my 1959 Ford Custom 300 dash and 1939 Buick Special dash.
  10. This manual has over 500 pages of detailed electrical information, including wiring diagrams, for american cars and trucks of 1920 and 1921. Copyright 1922. The book is complete and intact. Critters have chewed the edge of the back cover and back few pages but no information was eaten. $40 + $5.00 media mail shipping in the continental US.
  11. Thanks for all the replies!
  12. It is 16.5 inches long, the hex opening turns a 3/4 inch nut or bolt head. There are no markings. Is it a rim and tire tool? Is it specific to certain years/makes/models? Thanks.
  13. I made a bracket today, it's installed and woking fine. Thanks again!
  14. I am missing the front bracket for the Transmission Selector Shaft Lever Spring. This is for the front spring, at the transmission, it looks like it mounts on the driver's side lower bell housing to transmission bolt. According to my part book, it is group 4.121 Bracket, Transmission Selector Shaft Lever Spring part 1309663 1939-40 (LHD) Front left. See attached image of figure 7-10 from the shop manual. Does anyone have any good pictures of one, with dimensions, so I can make one? Or even better, have a spare to sell?
  15. Thanks for all the replies. I heard about it quite a few years ago from a local older gent. Maybe it was something he did or learned about years ago when there was actually a different underlying cause of blocks cracking. As stated above, another myth disproven.
  16. I have heard that some solid motor mounts should be left a little loose on some early cars because the frame can flex, causing the block to possibly crack. Is this correct and if so, what are the specific recommendations? For example which years does this generally apply to, how many motor mount bolts should be loose, and how much should they be loose?
  17. I had the same question a few years ago. See the replies to this thread: When I was in there I greased them just to be sure, installed new outer seals, and left the old inner seals thinking a little leaking from the inners can't hurt. It's been ok for 5 years so far.
  18. Harley Davidson had an F head engine thru 1929. Here is a pic of my 1928 JD with the 74 ci F head engine.
  19. 2carb40: I believe the rebuilt torque cups from Bobs go in dry. I hope so anyway because I think that's how I did it!
  20. Bob: I did not record the thickness I ended up using. I think I ended up using all the shims that came in the repro shim kit plus one or two of the originals I removed. The more I put in there the more unsure I became but it turned out ok. Dave
  21. Bob: I replaced the torque ball on my 39 Special a few years ago. I used a rebuilt one from Bob's that was coated in rubber, not an NOS fabric one, I'm sure either is fine. I initially set it up with the same thickness of shims that was in there before disassembly, reasoning being that was likely what was put in at the factory. It seemed way too tight to me, by hand I could not move it at all. I just kept putting in more shims until I got what seemed like a snug fit with no play but with effort I could move the pieces relative to each other. I figured it was because the rubber coated torque ball came out thicker than original but who knows for sure. I think the snug but moveable fit is ok because it has been over 3 years now and it seems fine to me. PM me and I can send you my phone number if you would like to chat. Dave
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