sleeve-valve

If you are an odd ball, then I am too. My daughter was looking for a particular late model Subaru. She did a lot of online research but I insisted we go in person. The first one we looked at, that she was ready to buy from online only research, looked good but on the test drive the suspension and drivetrain felt very loose, maybe a lot of off road use. The next one was tight, felt like it was never abused. She bought the second one and is still happy with it 2 years later.

This is how I browse the forums, maybe this will help some, maybe just confuse things more, but here goes: I am on a windows PC using Chrome browser, this probably works on many other machines and browsers, probably not on some. I go to the main forum page and scroll down to the sub forum I want to see. Then do a right mouse click, open in new tab. For example right click, open in new tab on 'Not Mine Automobiles for Sale'. I then click on that tab that just opened, and view individual threads of interest in the same way, by right click, open in new tab. When

I think that is just outside Bryce Canyon NP, across from Best Western Ruby's Inn.

Update: These books have been taken and are no longer available. Lot of Early 1920's Books: Everyman's Guide to Motor Efficiency 1922, Questions and Answers relating to Modern Automobile Design and Construction Driving and Repair Victor Page 1921, Gasoline Automobiles Moyer 1921, Brookes Automobile Handbook 1921, Hallock's Starting and Lighting Systems of Automobiles 1921, Audels Automobile Guide 1922, Gasoline Automobiles 1922 Floyd Clymer reprint, Motor Vehicle laws 1921 CT, Motor Vehicle Laws 1921 RI. All free shipped as one lot via USPS Media Mail.

You could post it on the stovebolt forums, there may be interest there: https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm

Here is a picture of my 1959 Ford Custom 300 dash and 1939 Buick Special dash.

This manual has over 500 pages of detailed electrical information, including wiring diagrams, for american cars and trucks of 1920 and 1921. Copyright 1922. The book is complete and intact. Critters have chewed the edge of the back cover and back few pages but no information was eaten. $40 + $5.00 media mail shipping in the continental US.

Thanks for all the replies!

It is 16.5 inches long, the hex opening turns a 3/4 inch nut or bolt head. There are no markings. Is it a rim and tire tool? Is it specific to certain years/makes/models? Thanks.

I made a bracket today, it's installed and woking fine. Thanks again!

Perfect. Thank you!!

I am missing the front bracket for the Transmission Selector Shaft Lever Spring. This is for the front spring, at the transmission, it looks like it mounts on the driver's side lower bell housing to transmission bolt. According to my part book, it is group 4.121 Bracket, Transmission Selector Shaft Lever Spring part 1309663 1939-40 (LHD) Front left. See attached image of figure 7-10 from the shop manual. Does anyone have any good pictures of one, with dimensions, so I can make one? Or even better, have a spare to sell?

Thanks for all the replies. I heard about it quite a few years ago from a local older gent. Maybe it was something he did or learned about years ago when there was actually a different underlying cause of blocks cracking. As stated above, another myth disproven.

I have heard that some solid motor mounts should be left a little loose on some early cars because the frame can flex, causing the block to possibly crack. Is this correct and if so, what are the specific recommendations? For example which years does this generally apply to, how many motor mount bolts should be loose, and how much should they be loose?

I had the same question a few years ago. See the replies to this thread: When I was in there I greased them just to be sure, installed new outer seals, and left the old inner seals thinking a little leaking from the inners can't hurt. It's been ok for 5 years so far.