hursst
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Posts posted by hursst
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Hello,
I have a MOPAR exterior moulding of some sort that I got in an NOS parts stash. Unfortunately, it has no part number. It did come in a paper wrapper that says Chrysler, copyright 1973. I will assume that maybe it would fit a car back to 1965, but the part appears to have been made in 1973 (and would fit many 1974 MOPARS as well). An ideas on what it fits? Thanks for any help!
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Hello,
I have a MOPAR exterior moulding of some sort that I got in an NOS parts stash. Unfortunately, it has no part number. It did come in a paper wrapper that says Chrysler, copyright 1973. I will assume that maybe it would fit a car back to 1965, but the part appears to have been made in 1973 (and would fit many 1974 MOPARS as well). An ideas on what it fits? Thanks for any help.
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Any ideas? Someone must have a car with this on it!
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Hello,
I have an NOS header panel of some sort, appears to be a radiator core upper support panel, but could be a lower valance support panel as well. Appears to be GM 1961 to maybe 1975, appears to be full size, and was found in a Chevrolet NOS part stash, so probably is Chevy. Any ideas on what this fits? Appears similar to many other panels I can find online, but I can't get a match. No part number and stickers/tags have fallen off or are unreadable. Thanks!
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Today, I continued on the leading in the trunk and it's now just about complete. There are a few other small spots I may hit, but I think the heavy lifting is complete with the leading (Photo 1). Boy is that trunk ugly. Filled in a few more holes here and there and did some more grinding of the weld stalagmites in the tough to reach areas.
I took a little break and finished rough sanding of the back panel. Turned out okay (Photo 2). Will need some more sanding with some finer sandpaper before it's ready for high build primer.
Next, I wanted to move this project along and get away from this trunk that's bogged me down for a long time now. So, I got the two rear fender front splash guards, which I can now install as a rough fit. The driver's side one is rusty at the bottom, so I'm attempting to weld up the holes to a point good enough for some leading or filler. This will be seen if you look in the fender well, so want to make it presentable at least. Here it is right before welding, with a copper piece stuck to the back for support under the holes (Photo 3). Will have a lot of grinding and re-welding to do I think. Here's the passenger side one on the car (Photo 4). These do not attach to the fenders, they will have a rubber splash guard fastened to the edge to make a flexible barrier. Finally putting a part back on the body!
Still a lot of work to do on the trunk, but I think I'm over the hump now.
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Oops, somehow I overlooked another number on the bottom edge. 5932761. This is a 1942-1948 Chevrolet License Plate Lamps Lens.
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Hello, found an old license plate lamp lens in an NOS parts stash. Can't find any info on it yet. It is labelled "L-12." Any ideas? Thanks! -Chris
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I had the same problem with my 30U. Mine was worn thru the metal completely. Had to lift the door up to close it. I would suggest trying to weld or have someone weld on more metal, then grind it back in to shape; that was suggested to me and I would think that would be a fairly easy solution.
Not that it helps you at this moment, but I have seen these both used and NOS on ebay from time to time, so you may want to look around. I lucked out completely, I found an NOS one at Hershey in 2018 at the bottom of a big box labelled "MOPAR," so they are out there, they are just never labeled or obvious.
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Looking forward to seeing this thing fixed up!
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Pushing forward with the MGA. Today I accomplished more leading and welding. First, I welded up the rust holes at the right front corner of the trunk. This worked fairly well with the copper backing plate behind it. Got it reasonable with minimal pinholes, so I'll use some filler to clean up this area after I grind it to something acceptable. Next, I leaded the right hand side area where I welded in the largest patch panel in the front of the trunk. This area didn't have too many problems, so it went well. Next, I moved to the outside of the trunk, welded in a few pinholes and put filler over some problematic spots where I had filled in rust holes earlier. I'll sand these out and have them ready to filler primer during the next phase. The back external panel area is quite a mess with numerous dings, dents, bends, and rust-outs. Not much protection from the "bumper."
Last, cleaned up and replaced some washers that will be behind the rivets on the spare tire cover when it's riveted on long from now. Soon, I'll have to finish drilling holes in the spare tire aperture in the trunk and get that finished before it's ready for high-build primer.
The next challenge will be the left hand side of the large patch I welded in. The valley towards the back of the trunk had a lot of holes and I've been unable to weld them up, so I will probably have to craft a medium size patch panel to fix this area, the metal is just not good enough. Once I fix this area and finish leading in the back patch area, that's about it for the primary part of the trunk. There is still a lot to do at the rear of the trunk and there are still some holes and bad spots that need attention or more grinding and cleanup to look presentable around the sides of the trunk. Looking good to make my schedule of having all the main metalwork accomplished by spring. Will be very happy when the trunk is complete, this has not been fun or at least satisfying work, it's just burdensome.
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Mike,
Yes, I wear the 3M mask with the charcoal filters always. I will only file lead, never sand or grind it. I try to be very safe when dealing with these things. I'll have to do a thorough clean up in the trunk with all the various metal and lead filings each time I work on it.
-Chris
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Big day today. Great weather, too. Was able to save that other section by welding up the larger holes. I got it good enough to use some filler, so I cleaned it all up and applied more filler.
This went pretty well and got done fairly fast, so I move on to the leading. I broke open the box and first watched the supplied DVD. I followed the instructions succinctly and started leading on the Frankenstein part of the trunk. Amazingly to me, it worked quite well! Here's a few photos of how it went (Photos 1 & 2). I did a few rounds of trying to get it clean enough, as my welding was not a smooth surface of metal, it was quite a mess with plenty of pits and junk. The thorough cleaning and tinning appeared to work, as it all appeared to stick (at least so far). It was actually fairly easy, I'm surprised more people don't do it, it's way better than plastic filler (assuming you have a relatively flat surface that you can attach with a file to shape it properly), so plastic filler still has a place. I also did a portion of the side of the trunk on the upper ledge, which you can see on the far left on photo 3.
I did a little filing as a test and some more sanding or the filler and that went well. Here's a shot of the entire progress so far (Photo 3). Still a lot of work to do, but I think the tide is finally turning on this trunk/boot.
I'd like to thank Mike McCartney for the recommendation; I think this is my ticket out of this most challenging portion of the restoration.
As a post script, I also got the pressboard "gasket" stapled onto the spare tire cover, as original. IT looks like I may have to do some slight trimming and I broke the thing again, at the joint I had previously glued. I stapled it and I'll re-glue it, plus it will not be seen, so not too concerned with it.
A salute to those soldiers and airmen we lost this week. Let's remember them on Veterans Day and Remembrance Day!
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Today I was able to weld in the new patch with just a little trouble. It was much easier with the better metal to work with, although I had a little trouble with the back end, where the metal is thin again. Cleaned it all up and put some filler in there (Photos 1 & 2). Tomorrow, I'm going to try to clean up the patch to the right of the one I just did and see if I can make it work. There are still quite a number of holes that need to be filled. If I can save it, I'll do the same thing, clean it up and put some filler in there to smooth it out. If I have time and interest, I'll try to sand out these areas to a reasonable level before I move on to the rear part of the trunk and start trying some leading.
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Martin, I appreciate the advice, as always, however, that would not be correct for the car and would not quite look right with a rough appearance. I'm going to have to tough it out and get my sanding muscles in order.
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Today got out of work a little early and we have a stretch of perfect weather for the next week.
I got my leading kit in the mail, so that's ready to go. In the meantime, earlier in the week, I cleaned up one of the bad areas and got it to the point where there were just a few pinholes and it looked reasonable, so I filled it with Rage Gold body filler (Photo 2). Still has a little finish sanding to do, but looks reasonable. Today, I decided to cut out one of the other areas that I just couldn't get to work. Metal was just too thin, could not get the holes filled in without creating more and making a messy patchwork of garbage. Cut the whole area out and tried to get into some better metal (Photo 1). Next, I cut out some new metal and shaped it to match the contours of the hole I made (Photo 3). Fits pretty well. Tomorrow, I'll clean up the metal around it and get it welded in properly, I hope. I'll probably have a few problems, but nothing like before. Next to that new patch is another area I've been working. I've gotten it to a reasonable level, with minimal pinholes. I'll do a little more grinding an I may start with some leading here, since it's fairly good already. Maybe fill some of the pinholes and see if I can get the leading to work. Probably an easy area to experiment with the leading process.
Once I complete these three areas in the middle of the floor, I'll start cleaning up the upper portion and leading it in, if I can get it to work. After that, I have quite a few areas in the corners of the trunk that need work. Most should just need a small amount of filler, but some will need some leading. Last, the far rear area of the trunk is a mess. I'll probably cut a large part of it out and try to get in a nice new strip of metal, but not too concerned as this area can't really be seen. Hoping to continue to make progress and get out of this slow rut I've been in for a few months working on this trunk. At the very end, the whole trunk will need a skim coat of filler due to pitting throughout.
Cheers
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Yes, I've been going to both a lot over the last 4 years. Those sites are the only way I could get this restoration completed. Thanks!
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...I then used the knife, saw, and a dremel grinding tool to shape the inside curves. OF COURSE, once I got to the last curve, I broke the piece. I was able to use some wood glue to get it back together. It should be fine, I will place a staple across the break area when I attach it to the spare tire cover as well, plus, this piece won't be seen as it will be sandwiched between the trunk aperture metal and the carpeting. Combined with the riveting and other staples, it should be fine.
Last, I did some more grinding to even out the trunk and get it prepared for one more round of welding before I try to lead the pinholes.
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Today, I recreated the pressboard backing to the spare tire cover. I found some pressboard at Lowes, which was the closest thing to original. Came in giant 4' x 8" sheets, so I had to break it up into 3 pieces to get it in the car.
Anyway, Here's the pressboard along with what's left of the original piece (Photo 1). I traced the pattern onto the new pressboard and cut it out (Photo 2). I used a swiss army knife saw to cut the piece out (it wasn't easy!), then I used a bench grinder to round the corners to shape. I then used a combo of a sharp knife and the saw again to rough cut out the middle (Photo 3)...
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...I was able to clean it up fairly well, it is actually in fairly good shape, it just had 50 years of filth on it. Here it is after a few rounds of clean up (Photo 1). I'm keep trying to improve it as I go. It will need some of the stitching repaired, and it will need a new pressboard surround, which is the portion I need to match up the holes to the trunk aperture. I'll hand-stitch the repair, but I'm searching for a suitable material to replace the pressboard-like material (you can see a piece of it on my previous post).
In the meantime, I bought an air grinder with various smaller bits and grinding/cutoff wheels, so I can get into some of the nooks and crannies. I also bought a leading kit, which I'll use to fill in the pinholes I cannot seem to fix in the thin metal areas, although size I cannot grind/sand the lead-based filler, I'll have to keep it out of the corners where I can't reach with a file. I'm hoping this is a solution to my trunk woes, I'm ready to move on and working this trunk area is no longer fun or very productive, it's become an albatross. I'm going to grind the bottom of the trunk, then another round inside the trunk, try to fill any large holes, then prep it for leading, once I get the kit. Hoping it works out!
Thanks for all the inputs from the rest of the AACA forum viewers, your tips and suggestions are very helpful and are slowly getting me better educated and improving my abilities, as well as allowing me to slowly move this project along.
Happy Halloween!
-Chris
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Now that I have the spare tire aperture in the trunk repaired, I need to drill some missing holes for the attachment rivets. In order to do that, I have to get the spare tire cover assembly in shape so I can get the proper measurements. This was one of the few remaining pieces that have not been restored or replaced. Here it is after digging it out of storage (Photo 1). It's a rubber/vinyl fabric surrounding the tire, then it's stitched to black carpeting, as this portion goes thru the trunk aperture and into the passenger compartment a little. This was done to provide at least some trunk space...
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Will do, Mike, thanks!
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I am going to try cleaning the metal better and I'm going to try some solder filler and see if that gets me anywhere. Thank you for the tips and comments. I think I've done about the best I can with trying to weld up that thin metal. I think I can make this work eventually.
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Last, I tried plugging more pinholes and larger holes in the trunk, but did not make much progress. Here's where I stand currently (Photo 1). Some areas haven't been ground down yet. It looks fairly reasonable from this photo, but if you get underneath the car and look up to the light on the ceiling, it looks like someone shot it with a shotgun blast, hundreds of holes. Some areas are getting closed up, while in other areas, I create as many holes as I fill, due to the thin metal. I will probably decide to do more surgery on it and cut out more of the metal, mainly at the top center, where it is now just a patchwork of welds, there really isn't any solid metal left between the patch I made (in grey primer) and the thin trunk metal. back to the raised circular piece.
There is also a patch I made on the driver's side rear corner of the trunk that also looks terrible, so I will probably cut it all out, this time a larger area so I can try to get to good metal, and try again. Upon thinking about this, getting a new tip for my welder, and talking to a friend, I think more of the problem is with the thin metal than with my welding. My welding is bad, but I think this is becoming a bridge too far. I'll keep plugging away at it, my goal is still to be finished by Spring; I'll call it Apr 15th, so I have plenty of time for redoing some of it.
I'm also going to buy a smaller air grinder, so I can get into the tighter spots to grind out the big globs of metal buildup I create, as trying to use the Dremel Tool is taking way too long.
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GM Part #2010713 (old 688727) Header Panel???
in What is it?
Posted
Another part I got in an NOS stash. This one is part #2010713 (old 688727) Header Panel for a GM. Researched it, but only found the part numbers and that they were discontinued. Any ideas on what it fits, or even really what it is?