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Posts posted by hursst
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Could it be some type of grounding tab?
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Small update for today. Completed the restoration of all the body fastening hardware, turned out great.
Also started on cleaning up all the sloppy welding and leading, applying some new leading, and applying rust inhibitor to the areas that are still bare metal where I've welded and/or leaded. Starting to look a little better, slowly. Will easily be ready for final primer in the spring time now, I think.
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Haha, fair point.
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Jon,
Fantastic! That answers all the questions, 1958 325 LD2-L and Coronet. Greatly appreciate all the help, hope I can return the favor with other folks' questions in the future. I also know where to go when I need carburetor rebuilds now, too.
Chris
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pkhammer, thanks for the info, but not sure how to read this. It shows a large amount of other carb numbers besides just 3-164. Does 3-164 have a specific application, or will 3-164 and all the other model numbers listed fit all the 1956-59 applications listed? Not sure if you know either, you may just be passing on what you have.
-Chris
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Carb and Roy, thank you very much for your posts. The "top of the float bowl" was the tip I needed. Had to use a magnifying glass, but was able to find it with a little more effort; numbers are there. It is a 3-164.
There is one on ebay that says it is for a 1958 Dodge truck. Another ad says 1956-1959 Dodge Coronet D66, 67, 70, 71, 72 LD2
1956-1959 Dodge D-63-1 Red Ram
1956-1959 Dodge D-62-2-3 Super Red RamWould anyone know if there are other applications? Thanks again!
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Thanks again, yes I read this, but again, this is too vague. Specifically where on the airhorn? I see no numbers anywhere on mine, but I could be overlooking it, or there may be no number at all, which is most likely the case. If I know exactly where to look, I can confirm whether or not have have a number on mine or not. I do appreciate the effort to assist.
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I greatly appreciate the response, but this is not helpful. I need to find out where the code number may be on the carb, other than the "WW." If it may have been just a tag that was affixed to the carb, then it is missing from it, so I won't be able to tell, unless someone else can identify the specific model of the carb. Thanks.
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Hello,
I saved a Stromburg Model WW from the junkyard recycle pile (see photo). I can clearly see "Stromburg WW" and the Bendix logo near all the patent numbers, but I can't fine the specific part number that will tell me what it fits. I did some preliminary research, and I think there may have been a tag attached (it is missing) with it, but I see no other numbers on the carb.
Does anyone know what car(s) this fits and/or can someone tell me where the part number may be, if there is one? Thanks!
-Chris
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Today: More boring photos of bad welds!
Today is a big day, as I am calling the major welding/rust hole repair complete! I leaded in some small holes on the front of the rocker (Photo 1) and I patched a quarter-sized (10p-sized for our UK friends) sized hole in the bottom of the trunk underneath that messy area in the bottom driver's side corner of the trunk (Photo 2). As you can clearly see, there is still a lot of work to do in correcting things like the atrocious spot welds on the front of the rocker, and grind all the giant welding stalactites in the second photo. I'll probably have a lot of pinholes and some touch-up welds to do, as you can see a few gaps in the photo. Most of the trunk photo area will be on top of the rear chassis member, so I'm not that concerned with perfect looks, but it's an absolute mess right now. I'm embarrassed to show it, but I want to show other folks that even amateurs can at least make this work, continue their projects, gain better skills over time, and still have a good restoration at the end. My free labor and sloppy work is way better than great work at $150/hr, in my opinion.
I'll keep on with the detail work until mid-Feb, when I'll have some car friends over to help me test fit the body and panels on the chassis, to see what other work I'll have to do. I'm hoping everything lines up well.
Last, I am almost finished restoring all the chassis bolts. That's been a good side project in taking me away from lying on my back doing sloppy welds underneath the car from time to time.
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Thanks for the feedback, that makes sense. I bet these were faster than computers for the guys who used them. Cards never broke down of froze.
Chris
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Hello,
Some buddies and I just bought a large stash of MOPAR dealership parts ordering cards. They were about to be destroyed. Attached is a photo of one of them. There must be a few thousand! They appear to have come out of a dealership. Each one has a part name, part number, how many per car, unit prices, and which cars they fit. In the example I show, it covers model years 1935-46. It also has a lot of fields you can fill out for orders, receipts, inventories, etc.
Does anyone know the exact use of these? Do they have any use or value to anyone? It seems like incredibly valuable information, but it also seems redundant with a factory parts interchange/master parts book.
Any thoughts or insight are appreciated.
-Chris
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Hello,
Some buddies and I just bought a large stash of MOPAR dealership parts ordering cards. They were about to be destroyed. Attached is a photo of one of them. There must be a few thousand! They appear to have come out of a dealership. Each one has a part name, part number, how many per car, unit prices, and which cars they fit. In the example I show, it covers model years 1935-46. It also has a lot of fields you can fill out for orders, receipts, inventories, etc.
Does anyone know the exact use of these? Do they have any use or value to anyone? It seems like incredibly valuable information, but it also seems redundant with a factory parts interchange/master parts book.
Any thoughts or insight are appreciated.
-Chris
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Hello,
Some buddies and I just bought a large stash of MOPAR dealership parts ordering cards. There3 were about to be destroyed. Attached is a photo of one of them. There must be a few thousand. They appear to have come out of a dealership. Each one has a part name, part number, how many per car, unit prices, and which cars they fit. In the example I show, it covers model years 1935-46. It also has a lot of fields you can fill out for orders, receipts, inventories, etc.
Does anyone know the exact use of these? Do they have any use or value to anyone? It seems like incredibly valuable information, but it also seems redundant with a factory parts interchange/master parts book.
Any thoughts or insight are appreciated.
-Chris
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Looks like I'm your neighbor in 22193. I'm headed to a yard in Culpepper tomorrow, I'll see if they have any.
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Ernie, just started reading your post today. Welcome back! I look forward to your further posts.
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Looking forward to seeing the restoration.
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Just a quick update for today. Fixed some problem spot welds on the front part of the rocker panels that I didn't get to earlier. Also, continued on the body bolts. Didn't get to the small hole in the trunk this weekend. Maybe next weekend.
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Don't know if this is actually what the person is claiming, but here's one on ebay now: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-1960-1962-1964-1965-1967-69-Cadillac-Buick-Power-Steering-Gear-Box-5687962/233500290996?hash=item365db3afb4:g:TPYAAOSwfL1eTXZb
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If you can take a more focused photo of it, we'll be able to see the part number. This is most likely a generic temperature gauge that is not related to a production car.
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Some progress from last week and today. Got the small patch panel welded in last week and fixed some other very small problem areas around it (Photo 1). Next, I continued to grind and clean up this general area, including work on the other side of this mess, on the outside of the body. I got it to a reasonable point, then leaded in some of the areas that had some remaining pin holes (Photo 2). Overall, very pleased with the progress, but still have more detailing work to do. I'll probably do a little more grinding on the sloppy welding, then use some plastic filler to give it a smoother look. There are still two nice holes underneath the horizontal support bracket where I put in the patch, so still a lot more work to do in the this area, but making good progress. There's also a lot of minor grinding and finishing work to do under the trunk in these problem areas. Will hit it again tomorrow.
Also continued with the body bolt restoration, now over half way finished with that.
I should be ready to test-fit the body and various panels to the chassis in February. I've lined up another car friend to assist. I should have the main metal work on the body mostly complete by then. Don't want to get too far with the body if I discover that certain things are way off and need surgery. If the test fit goes well, I should be on track to be ready for final high-build primer in spring, spend the first part of the summer sanding, then try to set up a paint booth situation in my garage (after a THOROUGH cleaning), and with some help from friends who paint their cars at home, then at the very least, get the undersides and areas of the car that won't be seen painted before the end of summer. It will probably be easier to paint those areas first, then attach the body to the chassis, then paint the rest of the car on the chassis after blocking off everything that doesn't need paint. If I can make these milestones, maybe I can have the rest of the car painted in the fall, then it will just be assembly of all the other parts, which are 99% finished. I think a completion date may be Spring, 2022 at this point. Ugh, that will be almost a 6-year restoration.
Chris
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A little more progress this weekend, but most of my time was spent catching up on other projects. This weekend, I was able to finish welding up the many small gaps I left in the large patch panel I put in the trunk. Turned out nicely, I think my welder is dialed in for this type of work and I've progressed to maybe a D+ in my welding skills. I have tad bit more grinding to do, then I'll cover it with a little plastic filler to blend it in better underneath. Will probably do the same on the top of the weld, doesn't need any leading. That's it for the heavy welding on the car, now it will just be cleanup and a few small patches here and there.
Next, I kept working on the mess that is the back driver's side corner of the trunk. I smoothed out the horizontal surface fairly well. This will get some lead and should look okay. The vertical portion is getting better, but is still a mess and will need more grinding and more welding of the holes I will end up making by getting it to look reasonable. I think I can make it work out, rather than starting over again with it. There was a small rust out area that I hadn't worked with yet (Photo 1). I cut more of the bad area out back to reasonable metal and made a patch panel, which is just placed in there for a test fit (Photo 2). Before I weld it in, I took the patch out and hit the area under it with some rust inhibitor, and there will be an air pocket underneath that ridge line. I'll then hit it with some weld-thru primer, as well as the patch piece itself, to help with future rust as well. Should be an easy job.
Last, I continued on cleaning up the body fasteners. I have bolt assemblies taped up and labelled with things like "rear under, driver," which are not very helpful notes I left for myself 3+ years ago, but since they are all body bolts, they can only be in so many places, so figured it out and it's going well as a side project. I'll put all the bolts loosely in their respective positions as to not lose them and keep them where they will end up in the end.
Feel like I've crested the mountain and things will be downhill now, the work should be a little easier from here on out, and hopefully faster.
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Just seeing this post now. Incredible work! Very impressive to see quality work done like this. Can't wait to see the finished car.
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Wrapped up the three day weekend with a little more time in the garage. Got the patch piece welded in. Turned out so-so. Has a few small holes in it, so will need some more work to get it better. May have to put a little leading in it to fill in some pin holes before it's complete (Photo 1). Only worked on it for about and hour and a half, as welding and grinding above you whilst laying on your back puts a lot of strain on the neck, so had to stop. Hope to hit it again next weekend and clean it up, then apply some rust inhibitor to keep the flash rust off. Will need to make another patch for the interior far end support, close to the end of this patch, but it will only be about 1" x 1/2".
With my sore neck, I decided to move back to the body mount hardware. I soaked the first set in Evaporust for a couple days first, then used a wire wheel to clean them up. I tried zinc plating them, but some of them still had a little bit of pitting that didn't clean up 100%, so decided to just use some etching primer, then I'll hit it with some steel or zinc spray paint to get it close to the original plating (Photo 2).
Neck feels better now, a few hours later.
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Fuel Pump Identification
in What is it?
Posted
Hello,
I have 3 old fuel pumps I saved from the scrap pile. I can't find any obvious part numbers on these, only "Made in the USA."
Any ideas on identification of these, or where to look for part numbers that I may have missed?
Thanks,
-Chris