West Peterson
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Posts posted by West Peterson
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Good idea, abot the restoration college. Another restoration college, perhaps the best known, is McPherson College in McPherson Kansas.
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What body style is yours? Steve Snyder had one exactly like mine that he sold recently, and it had the "blond" plastic.
I'm still curious about postwar V12 Lincolns. Did they go to hydraulic windows? or were you referring to later-model Lincolns in your previous post?
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I think standard on the 180 is the light "blond" color, and the darker brown color was an option.
I have the darker color on my car, but I'm not partial either way. I think they both look good. My car is loaded with options, including factory air, overdrive, upholstery, mouton carpeting, radio, deluxe heater.
I have some photos on my computer, but they seem to be way to large in order to attach.
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Randall,
You need a scissors mechanism to lift the windows, two solonoids for each motor (one for up and one for down), and some heavy duty cable. We learned that if you run all the power directly to the switch, then to the motor, the results are not that good (slow). We suggesst running the heavy duty cable to the solonoid. Regular wire from the switch to the solonoids.
You'll need to trim the inner door panel (behind the upholstery) slightly in order to get the new motor and lifting mechanism to fit, but other that, it's fairly easy (and gets covered up by upholstered door panel). Again, 1955 Lincoln (I'm not sure how long Lincoln used the 6-volt electric window motors, but any year that they did would work... 1954 and 1955, I think... while your taking the motors take the window lift (scissors) mechanism). The last time we performed this job, we had a set of NOS motors.
I'm not sure I agree with the statement that the hydraulic system was NEVER any good. But with limited use today, the hydraulics end up not lasting very long. Again, after several restorations of the system, where it worked just fine at first then lunched out, we saw no alternative but to convert to electric.
V12 Lincoln.
We have a 1942 Lincoln Continental, and its power windows are run on vacuum. Did Lincoln change the system to hydraulic after the war?
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Yesterdays Radio
The dash set, for cars equipped with radio, will run you almost $2,000.
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I just responded to a similar question in another thread (Question), giving my personal experience as a commercial magazine editor for 20 years...
Someone tell me to shut up (Terry) if I shouldn't be saying this, but I'd feel fairly confident that even if you wrote a credit line like, "Used WITHOUT permission from xxxxxx" (I've actually seen a publication do such a thing) that you wouldn't have any problems. Small club publications, in my experience, are practically imune to the copywrite laws only because your circulation is so small. Legally, you are not imune. I think that if you just write, "reprinted from xxx issue of xxxx", no commercial magazine would have a problem with what you've done. Do not make a habit of reprinting complete feature stories, though.
Now... if the AACA legal department is demanding that you get permission first, then that you must do.
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I don't mean to tell you to do something that might be wrong, but here's my experience when I was with commercial publications.
When I would be contacted by local or regional type club publications, it was more of a bother than anything else to respond to a request like that. I doubt if any commercial publication would mind, especially with proper credit, if a small newsletter of hardly more than 50-100 copies used a portian of their material. This does not mean that you should reprint a complete feature story, but even then, I wouldn't have paid it much attention. If, however, it was pointed out to me that the club publication was making a huge habit of doing such, I'd write a letter asking them to stop (I never had to write a letter like that). I really wouldn't sweat it.
Just my two-cents
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If you plan on having the car judged, the chrome wire wheels should not be installed, nor radial tires. Chrome plating the items in which you stated will also take points away.
With Packard, they seemed to do anything the customer wanted. But, for AACA judging, if you alter to anything other than "normal," you need to have proof that it came from the factory that way, and chrome headlights, taillights, leather interior are definately not normal for that car. I think you'd find that most people would think the extra chrome was guady.
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To answer your question: Every state has its own rules.
Question regarding your country's restrictions:
I'm curious: do you have special license plates for your classic cars? And if so, are you restricted because your car has the "classic" plates, or is the car restricted because of its age?
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A photo would help, but it sounds like the aftermarket lights that were popular on hot rods.
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I've been trying to get my 1940 180 Touring Sedan on the road this summer, and have run into some problems. It has been in storage since 1960, and it seems to need a lot of little things to make it a reliable tour car.
When I first got it, the Overdrive was working like a charm. Now I notice that the ammeter is slightly in the negative. Filing the Regulator points did nothing. New ground strap did nothing (although it desperately needed replacing). The car starts immediately when the battery is charged (without jumper cables), so I'm pretty sure the cable to the starter is okay. I guess I need to find someone to check my generator and regulator, but now the overdrive doesn't work, nor does the light on the dash come on anymore. Is that because I'm not getting enough voltage to it? I hate the thought that somehow I ruined the overdrive.
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The longest production car, I believe, was the 1940-42 Packard 180 Touring Sedan. Somewhere around 19 feet. I'll look it up when I get home.
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Scott,
I did a pretty detailed history of Crane and Simplex in Car & Parts a couple of years ago. They probably have back issues available. If not, I may be able to find my copy, and could possibly answer some specific questions.
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Studebaker had a bumper very similar to that around 1927. And Chevrolet, but I'm pretty sure it's not Chevrolet.
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Bill,
You've got me sitting on the edge of my chair...
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My mother owns Mrs. P.K. Wrigley's 1942 Continental coupe. At the time we purchased it (1972), it had a Cadillac V8 in it that Andy Granitelli installed in his speed shop in Chicago. It was bolted to the standard Lincoln 3-speed transmission, but I don't recall if there was any sort of adapter. It has since been restored with the authentic V12. (Nowhere near as fun as when the Cadillac V8 was in it. When I was 15 years old, I got my first speeding ticket in that car with the V8, doing 65mph in a 55 zone near Tomah, Wisconsin. It was very hard holding that car down to 65 even.)
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If anyone knows the person who ends up purchasing this car, I'd love to have a "barn find" story for Antique Automobile. Get photos of the car as it's found, coming out of the barn.
Thanks.
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Bill Tilden (not the tennis star, but co-author of the Kaiser Bible, "The Last Onslaught on Detroit") lives in Atlanta. Give him a call. I believe he's in the book.
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Good save! A photo from the front might be of help in identifying it.
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I can't give you an idea of value, but I highly suggest that he doesn't do ANYTHING to the car. Do not clean it... NOTHING. There may be some important information there hidden under the dirt, dust, etc. that could be removed if not cleaned carefully. It's been sitting since 1935, it could be a benchmark car for those who restore this type of vehicle.
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Bob Bahre (pronounced "bear"), Oxford, Maine, owns the 1940 Buick with the Brewster towncar body now. He got it from the Noel Thompson estate. Bob owns one of the finest collections of Classic Automobiles in the world.
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John,
Nice find!. You need to join the AACA and show it at the meet in Denver in July. I'd love to feature it in Antique Automobile (you must be a member to have a car featured).
Let me know if this interests you.
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Don't forget to change the oil again after adding anything like that to the oil. There are some over the counter detergents (mostly kerosene, I believe) that are available to loosen the gunk out as well. I used that on my Packard.
I could not drop the pan because the front motor mount needs to be replaced.
The order in which I conducted the job:
1. drained the oil.
(Just for kicks, after I drained the oil, I ran a wire rod through the drain plug hole and scraped the bottom of the pan and listened. It sounded clean, except for the area immediately surrounding the drain plug.)
2. added cheap oil plus the kerosene
3. ran the car at idle for a few minutes
4. Changed the oil again
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"Smoke like a zoo chimp"
John, I love it!!!!
It would be a good idea to not just change the oil, but if you can, drop the oil pan and scrape any sludge that may have accumulated at the bottom. You don't want that sludge working its way back through the engine.
Looking for a good restoration shop in Ohio
in General Discussion
Posted
What part of Ohio are you thinking of?
D&D Classic is just north of Dayton and have produced Pebble Beach winning automobiles.
http://www.ddclassic.com/
I might be able to get you closer to Cleveland if you'd rather be "in the north."