bradsan
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Posts posted by bradsan
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I like the double tripod engine stand for the guy doing bearing work.
Can anyone figure out how they have that attached to the block?
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Kyle
I really like your slotted workbench! Was that a custom bench?
In regards to Hugh's post , the levers and gears are both aluminum I think. they tend to be okay unless the steering column tubes get seized with old grease or the distributor freezes. Then they break!
They do polish up very nicely on a buffing wheel. These are for a '26 and looked like Hugh's before I started.
I did them early on before I found out they were not correct for 1925. Anybody need a set?
Brad
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Kyle
The original distributor is made of pot metal which swells when it eventually goes bad. And it will eventually go bad! After that happens, you are usually breaking the distributor to remove it.
The distributor can be replaced with a later cast Iron one ( or earlier; I ended up converting a 1923-24 4cyl distributor ). See if your current distributor holds a magnet which should tell us whether someone has already replaced it .
The original distributor caps used 9MM plug wires.Some people use a much newer distributor that will take a later standard 6cyl GM cap and standard 7MM plug wires.
Careful hitting on the distributor , the cast iron end of the SG unit that holds the distributor can break and that part can be harder to find than the distributor !
I once thought it would be interesting to try and get the distributors re-popped in aluminum. Maybe your CNC skills can come up with something?!!! The downside to that is that you would end up back at the hard to find caps and wires.
Brad
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Curt
Thanks for posting an update on this.
I was wondering if Locknstitch could get in there too. Now I know!
I'm curious if you were able to diagnose exactly what the problem was when they grooved it prior to repair. Was it a crack or was it a bunch of pinholes? Any concerns about what was left for the weld to hang onto?
Brad
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Ron
I almost missed the part where it started and ran! Even if you had to hand crank it, I think that is pretty exciting and encouraging .
Are you happy with how it ran? Had to be better than the 5 cylinder engine you had before.
Maybe a video of a running engine is in order!
Just another thought, was the SG output as expected when the engine was running?
Brad
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Ron
I tried to check check each post carefully but you have manged to collect 8 pages of help here , so apologies for either repeating someone or stating the obvious but i did do search of the thread and
1) got no hits for polarity, so I'll throw it out there for consideration.
Buick is negative ground so it shouldn't be an issue for you but I got to thinking about it as a lot of vehicles back then were positive ground. Battery terminals and cable ends can get worn.
Just another thing to double check back at the battery if you haven't already.
Put another way, is the SG spinning the right direction?
2) there have been several suggestions to do a torque test on the SG but I'm thinking the other way round. We've discarded the idea of the mechanical gear/linkage issue but could you test that by disconnecting the battery , depressing the starter pedal and trying to manually turn the starter gear itself and see if it 'feels' right ? Would have to disconnect the WP shaft I guess. Or perhaps try hand cranking from the front of the car with starter out and then again with starter pedal pressed down ( battery disconnected of course!). Is there a difference?
Brad
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David
Here is a link to the previous discussion on gas caps.
Apparently , Cadillacs still used them as oil filler caps in the 30's and repros are available from Cadillac parts suppliers at Cadillac prices
Brad
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Curt
Attached is the schematic for the 31 Auburn. Amazingly, the guys at Bijur Delimon will still provide you with this free of charge!
See the chart on the right about halfway down showing LSA was superseded by CSA at some point in time
I was missing most of the copper lines on my chassis not to mention some fittings and was worried about what might have fallen in the open ends of the fittings . So, even after I soaked them in some thinner with plans for reuse, I still ended up just replacing them all! I might have an old LSA 0 if you like!
Fluidline Systems has most of the parts in stock. The copper line is pretty pricey but is not commonly available.
The only thing not available are the three and four way fittings. Classic and Exotic has new ones available. Classic can also rebuild the vacuum pump as well.
Brad
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9 hours ago, poci1957 said:
Wayne, do we think all engines were built in Detroit and shipped to the branches?
Pretty sure that Canada had it own engine plant which is why our 24 Model TT engine was cast with MADE IN CANADA on the side of the block. There are several other parts that are stamped Made in Canada
Likely cheaper for Ford to set up another plant to comply with applicable trade restrictions. I'm pretty sure most other parts of the car were USA made . Protectionism ran pretty fierce back then . Some things never change!
Brad
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Kyle and Terry
The fellow at Doorsills LLC is Don Kuehn. really nice fellow and does a very nice job.
They are made to order and involve etching so how much likely depends on if he already has a pattern he can use. I bought a set for another marque's cabriolet about a year ago so I would expect that If he has the pattern, you are looking at around $250.
Brad
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Slingermachine
Here is a heater in a McLaughlin 25-45A .These were considered closed cars as they had the touring hard top. Not quite sure how you would get this in a roadster. I think the heaters were restricted to 4 seat cars that had a passenger compartment
If you want more specifics on what else is needed to install them in a Master, send a pm to Garnetkid ( Leon ) on the is website.
I can't see why you wouldn't put one in a open car and certainly a lot safer that a closed car considering you are actually pumping carbon monoxide through the passenger compartment and any leakage would be more hazardous in a sealed up closed car!!
I think there is good reason why they changed to using engine coolant for interior heater!
Brad
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Slingermachine
That was standard equipment on the 1925 McLaughlin Buick Special cars ( same as Standard in the US). I'm not sure f they were fitted to the Masters. I think the Masters used a heater with a square grill that was flush to the floor.
The heater you have looks correct for 1925 McLaughlin closed models 21 25A, 26 27 and 28. You need the floor control shown ( 163725) and the valve assembly (not shown) that clamps to the exhaust pipe ( its pretty rudimentary!) You also need another tailpipe unless you want the heat on all of the time!
I have one off of a Model 21 that I was thinking off putting in our Model 25 open car only for the reason that dual pipes on a 1925 six cylinder would look really cool!
The Master's might have used a larger diameter exhaust and tailpipe so I'm not sure if the parts are transferable.
Brad
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Hugh
There is a spring company local to me that will make all manner of custom springs. I had them make me a set of push-rod springs for the '25. Usually about $20 for the set-up and $3-5 for each after that. CDN pesos of course.
I can inquire if you want .
Brad
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Sligermachine
Gregg Lange has already made some !
That is what Larry started with in his original post
$30 postage paid .
Great fellow to deal with , mine just arrived today
Contact him as follows:
glange0@charter.net
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Jerry
Buick thought one needed 6 of 108579 5/16" lock washers to make the engine operate correctly but I take your point. Times have changed and the evidence is clearly against split 'lock' washers.
Your suggestions for an alternative for this application?
1) Just the bolt?
-2) bolt + loctite?
-3) bolt + internal or external toothed lock washer?
-4) bolt + above lock washer + loctite?
-5) bolt + lock wire ( Hugh has a lot more patience than I do !!!)
I'm thinking 3) as the Loctite would be a bit of overkill .
If your post had more info, could you provide a link?
Brad
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Leif
That sure looks nice.
The Master bumper mounting is sure a lot more aesthetically pleasing thats' for sure.
Brad
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Leon
Nice photo and the car looks fantastic as always.
South Okanagan in BC , not sure which road but it is some stunning scenery
For the rest of you who don't know Leon's car, and can't find the Bugle article, here is a link to an article on the restoration including the before photo .
www.vccc.com/1925-buick-restoration-by-leon-rumpf/
That photo is a good reminder that 1) anything is possible and 2) there is always somebody who starts with something worse than what you have!
Leif
I think McLaughlin used the same bumper style on both the Master and Standard as the bumpers or our 25 Std are identical down to the diamond badge in the middle. I suspect the Master might be wider.
The brackets shown have numbers on them right out of the McLaughlin 1925 parts book.
The front bracket is not the most attractive piece of industrial design and requires defiling your nicely finished splash apron.
The rear is actually quite well done and bolts up to the spare tire carrier mounting holes. If only I could find the other half of my right one! I'll wait and see what Leon posts for the Master.
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Bob
How 'round' is the worn rod bearing hole?
If you file the spacers down, then you will only be reducing the diameter in one direction and might still have .004 wear in the other.
That's a lot for a 2" rod bearing ( i'm guessing here!)
Not familiar with early Buicks but I'm guessing the D45 isn't a pressure fed oil system so it might not be critical like it is with pressure fed bearings.
Brad
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Hugh
Split lock washers are an interesting subject. Lots of information out there on their use.The science appears to run contrary to our faith based application.
The literature out there all comes to the conclusion that they do nothing to prevent loosening. Once the bolt is tightened, and the washer flattened you are simply relying on the friction on the bolt threads to prevent loosening.
Here's one of the many links:
That said, I still look at them and reinstall them with the thought that they will prevent loosening .Just can't shake it!
On a related note, When I removed the clamp bolt, some of the bolts were damaged by the wrist pin groove being out of alignment . ( my bad, probably should have stopped when the bolt removal got tough and re centered the wrist pin.
In doing so, I damaged some of the threads. No problem I figured, I'll just chase them with a appropriate die . I know there are restoring taps and dies but I've never had a problem with using regular dies for this...until now. There is something about those bolts that just do not lend themselves to this kind of operation. Its not like I'm simply cutting too much metal, its more like everything is binding during the operation. Afterwards, the threads don't look so much recut as squished around.
I'm wondering if there was either a special steel for those bolts or a different thread depth. The diameter and pitch appear to be standard 5/16" NF.
I'm thinking of using Grade 8 bolt, , lockwasher and high temp Loctite if I ever get it back toigether
Brad
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Tinindian
I was thinking along the lines of what you were suggesting until read their somewhat stern warning about a special file.
I should know better than not to Google before I speak just kinda figured it would be more obscure that 632,000 results! Looks like the primary purpose of the special tool was to provide a 'table ' to keep the ends of the rings perpendicular to the tangent of the curve , if that even makes sense.
Brad
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Not to hijack Larry's thread but since Larry , Hugh and Ron are all in the middle of rebuilding their engines faster than I ever will, I thought I'd post what I got from Ross Pistons.
Can't really provide an endorsement as I have no idea how they will work but I was pleased with what they provided. The order was from 8 ( yes , 8) years ago so I'm not sure if anything has changed.
They supply rings and wrist pins so when you are considering cost, you should factor that in. I went oversize to avoid sleeving costs but after boring over size , the shop did say that theere was some discolouration of the cylinder walls that might just be casting issue or might be some corrosion issues. Worst case is I will have to resleeve if things don't work out.
Lots of details in the instructions , they provide a spec sheet so you can reorder if something bad happens . Their instructions are somewhat amusing as they include details for nitrous and blown engines.
I basically trusted Ross to provide what they thought was best given that piston technology has changed pretty dramatically in 90 years. They will make them anyway you want. So aside from the weight difference, which is pretty astounding, here is what else changed.
Ring thickness: rings are a custom job from Total Seal. The old compression rings were .125" the new ones are about half that. Interestingly, the oil rings are actually thicker on the new pistons. Good instructions with the rings with specific instructions on setting end gap. Apparently , you are supposed to use a specific ring file for this job. Anyone know what that looks like?
Wrist pins were supplied. Interestingly , the pins run right in the aluminum pistons. The old pistons were bushed . I can't quite get my head around that but Ross said not to to worry. So far wear hasn't been a problem!!
Only minor complaint is that they did not mill the clamp bolt groove. The pins are tough and the retired machinist complained. In case you are wondering, the ID is tapered to be thicker in the middle. I sort of freaked out when I first saw the outer wall thickness and the groove I had to cut but I think they will be okay.
The other tricky bit is the lack of a slot to rotate the wrist pin and line up the clamp bolt. I foresee some bad words when doing that .
Appearances are deceiving, the new piston is, in fact, 0.040" over.
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Lastly, skirt length. Ross whacked about 1/2" off of that. Can't say what that will mean. Increased piston slap noise? I know the aluminum pistons in the Model T are way quieter than stock. I went with their advice just in case I ever add the nitrous and the blower!
If you want any more info, let me know.
Brad
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Hugh
I think you are correct on the piston slap issue, that was more of a cast iron piston problem and I expect that will not be as big an issue with the aluminum pistons.
I was originally going to comment that the rods , and crank would all be the same ( same stroke for 25, 26 and 27) but thought I'd fact check before you caught me out!
Sure enough, the master parts book shows 1925 all by itself on those two items. Could be small differences, such as the crank which for '26 went to a roller pilot bearing instead of the plain bushing for 1925 or perhaps even eliminating the 'arrow" on the connecting rod.
You know there was a camshaft attached to the timing gear if you need it! I don't think it needs anything besides a regrind. Could send it via Delta Camshaft who already have the profile in stock . I got their name from the 27 Buick Yahoo group and they seemed to do a nice job on mine.
Brad
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Larry
The offset piston pin bore has come up before on the AACA forums. I'm not sure if I've talked to you about it before . I've posted in the past to try and find out definitive answers as to
1) why Buick and others did it in the first place.
2) if is was such a good idea, why did they stop and
3) all things being equal what difference would it make if one eliminated the offset. ( I'm thinking the only variables that could really start making a difference are pin bore vertical location in piston, connecting rod journal to wrist pin developed length and crankshaft centreline to cylinder bore centreline)
I've never really been given a satisfactory answer to any of those questions.
When I had Ross make new pistons, they gave me the option of doing them either way without any cost difference. Their opinion was that it really wouldn't make a difference and I went with zero offset. Unfortunately, given how slow my project is going, I am of no use as a guinea pig for anyone currently doing a rebuild!
If I'm reading your comment correctly, the 1926 was a different engine and easier to rebuild, Not sure if that was due to the external accessory configuration or internal parts availability. Not sure what the internal differences were besides the 1/8" increase in the bore.. The '26 engine I have sitting in the shop looks pretty much identical except for the reconfiguration of the starter /generator /waterpump on the right and revised carb /heat /manifold piping on the left. 26 accessories are a much more familiar 'modern' configuration in all respects.
Anyone know if 1926 had the offset pistons ( i could find out but it is a lot of work!) or have any answers to 1,2 or 3?
Brad
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Interesting thread , especially about the water jacket crack. Auburn Lycoming straight 8's have the same problem in the same area for the same reasons I think. I'm wondering if LockNStitch wouldn't have been a better alternative or did you consider and reject that option? Pretty hard area to get to. Right now, I'm trying Irontite on the Auburn but I'll need a Plan B!
Brad
1947 Chevy Fleetline
in General Discussion
Posted
Welcome to the world of 47 Chevs.
I have a 47 Stylemaster 4dr which is the same as the Fleetline but stylier??? ( actually a misnomer because the Styleline is the base model and the Fleetline is the dressed up version which has always seems counter-intuitive to me)
Here is a great link to your shop manual and all other sorts of GM manuals and literature. Only wish other marques had the same fantastic resource!!!
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1942_47/index.htm
Just a few comments:
The 216 was the only available engine and has only dipper lubrication on the connecting rods so be nice to your motor. Keep it in the designed operating parameters of the day and it will be fine.
Speaking of which, it has a pretty tall ratio rear end for easy city driving. so 50-55MPH is about the end of the world for it. I wouldn't go past that and stay below that if you motor is old and tired.
In light of the above , the two most frequent upgrades are the 50 -52 Power Glide rear end ( lower ratio rear end and pretty much a direct bolt in) and the full pressure 235 engine. ( motor mounts need to be resolved.)
One specific item I would check is the generator pulley. The originals were two halves riveted together. Check the rivets closely or even weld the inside groove together. Preferably before you re-core/replace your radiator and set out on an extended journey. Ask me how I know.
Brad