bradsan
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Posts posted by bradsan
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Victoria
Newsletter was definitely the wrong choice of words! I have seen many comments that the magazine is a top notch publication and it was a slip to refer to it as a newsletter. Just chose the wrong word on a tired Friday afternoon.
I belong to another marque club that produces a nice magazine too. I just don't want another stack of magazines to make a decision over since I seem to have a hard time tossing any written material.
I thought it would be easier for me and maybe others (not to mention cheaper for all ) if I was able to opt out of the printed copy.
Even if its not an option , I'll still consider membership , I just thought there might be others like me who needed a bit more of an incentive what with some of the comments about a potential service fee to use the forum. The comments did make me pause and think about the freebee I'm receiving. Probably should have PM'd the club but thought others might have the same question so I thought I'd post it here in case the club wanted to provide a public response.
Appreciate the feedback!
Brad
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In light of the recent dust up with the posting relevance and the poll that was recently posted I looked into membership.
I'm a longtime non-member user of the forum and am already a member of 2 or 3 other clubs so I'm kind of feeling the 'death by fees' situation.
However, I spend more enjoyable time reading and even contributing to posts on this forum than I do with any other of the clubs I belong to. So
In other words , I'm feeling a little guilty and I really would like to become a member and support what I have been enjoying for free for the past 10+ years.
Which brings me to the following observations / questions:
I live outside the US in Canada so presumably my membership is "Foreign" and $10USD more. I'm guessing that is to cover additional postage for the newsletter.
The US membership fee is $40 and that presumably covers printing and mailing the 6 newsletters.
I wouldn't mind reading the magazine but I have no desire to start another newsletter collection as I''m already surrounded by paper newsletters I have no use for but can't seem to bring myself throw out.Is there any consideration for a cheaper membership option to receive or just have access to an electronic version of the news letter? I did belong to a club that did that and the fee for electronic membership was about 50% of the mailed membership. They did not have the same scale of economy as the AACA operates on so the print/mail savings probably are not on the same scale and likely less then 50%.
While I would like to have an emailed PDF copy, I can also see where emailing the newsletter might lead to too much 'sharing'.
For my purposes , just being able to access an online version would be fine.
So as a suggestion, maybe a E-membership that includes an emailed PDF version of the newsletter for $30USD or maybe the E-access newsletter for $25USD?
The only downside I could see to E-access is that you would presumably lose access to the newsletters if your membership lapsed. ( unless someone was going to do a lot of programming!)
I did check under membership but didn't find these options offered, my apologies if I overlooked them.
Thanks
Brad
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Matt
This is great news! I really appreciated reading about your previous attempts, even though its clear they came at no small personal cost to you.
As others have mentioned, Its no small feat to both do the work and then post about it and ,on top of it , post in such a clear well written manner.
You've already provided a great idea and received from great feedback on the 'Evapo- Pump' that others including myself might benefit from. If I have a criticism, posts like this are why I spend way too much time on this forum!
Hoping Part III has a happy ending and thanks for inviting us all on the ride again.
Keep it coming please!
Brad
BTW I don't know how anyone who has read your content and followed your participation on this forum could wish you ill will because you are a vintage car dealer. I think you happen to be one of the best ambassadors/ spokesmen that business could have.
I'd buy a car from you in heart beat.....if only my wife would let me😁
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Hugh
Wow, what you come up with never ceases to amaze.
What a great idea and thanks for sharing as usual!
Brad
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Anthony
As if we were not all jealous enough about the car (which is amazing) what about the beautiful garage? That building is beautiful in and of itself!. Do you have a separate workshop because that looks way to nice to work in!
The car looks very much at home in it!
Are those three cars we see the other McLaughlins you were speaking about?
Brad
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Anthony
What a great car!
We have a McLaughlin 25-25 that needs a lot more work than that one!
What other McLaughlins do you have?
Brad
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Well, the ride control and two speed rear end selectors on the dash say 1932 but it could be an 'updated' 1931. Couldn't read the engine number or see if it had the Startix to confirm year.
Still looks pretty nice although that engine's appearance really isn't in keeping with the rest of the car. Hmmm.
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Hugh
Was reading another post with a link to https://patents.google.com/
Went down the rabbit hole thinking I might find a drawing of the part searching for AC Speedometer.
Best I could do was this one showing the side profile and then an improvement filed in in 1928.
https://patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/8d/c0/3a/cf864c590d8774/US1812510.pdf
https://patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/e4/4c/22/9b2e3660971d77/US1690355.pdf
Interesting site to say the least!
Brad
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Hugh
Our speedo was rebuilt 6 years ago by either Bob's or Bill's ( can't remember now!). It came with no warranty as the pot metal disintegration process never really stops . I am definitely interested in this part. I can't tell you which of the two options we need as the speedo is assembled and I don't want to take it apart until it isn't working! Likely get one of each!
Why not just scan it and create a file to work from? Gary Ash on this forum seems to have a lot of knowledge and sources on 3D printing.
Any thoughts on doing the speedo body as well ? They are made of the same 'crummy' material and I can already see problems around the shaft input threads on ours.
'Why not just have it lost wax cast ? Far less expensive and it can be made from bronze or aluminum. '
As I recall , the piece interlocks with the body with some pretty tight tolerances which is one of the reasons they crack when they swell. The sample part is already distorted from the cracking and swelling so you would have to fix the dimensions before you did any casting ( I think I just answered my scanning question! Maybe scan first and then adjust the scanned drawing to fix any distortion? ) Plus, its a tiny part and you'd have to account for shrinkage and distortion etc. Maybe not a problem to cast but the project seems perfectly suited to the new technology available .
Brad
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WSP and Hugh
I'm in the same boat as Hugh except that I am still confused!
Is the visor part of the top or separate and, if separate , where does it go when the top is down?
Brad
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Tom van Meeteren had a contact that was rebuilding/rewinding 20's Buick coils. Maybe he can help? PM'd you his email
Brad
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Here are the shocks I have . One body has the same number as Sagefind's , the other is 20997,; they are clearly a right and a left. They are also stamped G1 and G5 but I suspect those are simply casting numbers as they do not match up with any of the part numbers provided so far.
Arm length is about 7" from the centre of the lever shaft to the tip of the arm where the snubber material hangs over.
On the back side , the shaft centre is offset between the bolt holes, being 1.75" rear of the centre of the front bolt.
Not sure what the neutral position is for these is. Given they only work one direction , they may not rest in the horizontal position.
Hopefully, that is enough information to tell you whether these arms will locate properly above the front axle. Should be able to get a good idea of axle location using a level and a plumb line referenced from the frame bolt holes.
Both of the arms on these shocks don't move. with hand pressure or even a bit more persuasion. I did not open them up to inspect why.
PM me if you are interested.
Brad
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Not sure if you have this or not from the United Services Manual. Looks like the shocks are shared by both Master and Standard and are model dependent . I would suggest that the are the same body with different arm lengths from front to rear and likely different valving where a model calls for a different shock at the same location (IE different shock for rears for some models. )
I have a set labelled 1928 , not sure if they are front or rears . I'll post you some pictures after I pay Mom a visit today!
They are surplus to my needs for the 1925!
Brad
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Which is why, as per Frank, the last thing you want failing on your Model T is the rear end: even excessively worn pinions and bearings can disengage and leave you brakeless except for the handbrake which won't help you much if you have any speed or grade..
Favorite accessory for the Model T was, and still, is the Rocky Mountain brake which is a set of externally contracting brakes. They are a definite must with any Ruxstell ( 2speed) rear end or Wardford (overdrive) aux transmission since missing a shift leaves you in the same position as the first point and your brakes become 1) a favourable change in grade , 2)your foot until the shoe wears out, or 3) whatever you end up running into.
Brad
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After 1925, nothing but a name tag and maybe some interior and exterior colour options.
Before that it mostly varied in upgraded trim options with the same drive train and body.
Before the two names, when they were just McLaughlin, totally different story
Not sure about the Robertson screws, everything was slotted on our '25.
Brad
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Hugh
Looks amazing I still haven't figured out how you had the time to work on the car and compile all of the amazing and detailed posts on how it all goes together; not to mention your responses to to others on the forum. I have a hard time just keeping up with the reading!
Is there a starting date? Looks pretty close. I'm thinking it looks pretty good for tour as is , you know, speed trials , that sort of thing. The bigger tires are probably good for another 5mph. There is a calculation in there somewhere.
Brad
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I stand corrected, thought we were talking about the window garnish moldings which are steel and wood grained. Agree the larger moiuldings that run front to back are, indeed plastice
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EOB
Try the parts wiki link I sent you . I'd like to say they are likely the same vent window across the passenger car lineup but you already caught me out on the interior door handles!
Here is the link to the front door parts diagram http://www.gmpartswiki.com/getpage?pageid=121887
Here is the link to the front ventalator assembly group 10.650 http://www.gmpartswiki.com/getpage?pageid=121903
I'm not quite sure why the 52 wagon right side has its own part number!
I don't see any truck parts listed.
Brad
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Hugh
Wow, you are making great progress!
I would use the the 'tar strips' anywhere painted sheet metal surfaces attach. I think they commonly call it 'anti-squeak' for a reason although I'm not sure that you will be able hear the squeaking over the road noise of an open car!
Plus you wouldn't want all the hard work of getting the paint on the metal to be undone.
I use roofing felt available from Home Depot. A $30 roll will do about 100 cars . The stuff I have in my shop right now is .045" so you could double it up if you wanted to duplicate what you have.
I ordered an anti squeak kit for my 52 Chev and in some places the new product had the same 2" guideline markings on it that you find on the roll of roofing felt!
3M feather spray contact adhesive to hold it in place while you put it together.
Brad
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Those rear-ends are getting harder to find for the reason! I know you can retrofit them to 1947.
Definitely easier on the engine if you are venturing onto the highway.
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Like Greg says.
The only reason I ship to a US address is to avoid paying at least twice the shipping fee. The heavier and bigger it gets, the bigger the price differential. An hour of my time can easily be worth $100 if I'm shipping multiple items.
Don't mess with Customs, to avoid taxes, it just isn't worth it. Buddy of mine had 3 forgotten limes in his car and was on the US CBP watch list for a year. They have longer memories when it comes to taxes.
Interestingly, RockAuto has figured out a way to ship parts to me in Canada for about the same price as the the cost to get it to Washington. Using Fedex no less. And no dastardly brokerage fees. Something about bulk broker fees? Or maybe they just carry a lot of clout in the shipping world.
Brad
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This is what I'm talking about !
Brad
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EOB
Grew up riding in the back of a 51 Chev Businessman's coupe. Not sure what your current power set up is but I think the options for 1951 were either the 216 with the manual or the 235 with the auto. ( they were for 1952)
To me , the 216 whining through the gears is magical , not to mention very dependable and roadworthy. The 235 gives you full pressure oiling to the rods and is pretty much bullet proof. You can even tune it ;likely a lot cheaper than modifying the car for a V8.
I'm with Marty, not offended but you are depriving yourself of a true old car experience if you throw the V8 in there.
Brakes are your call . You can order new brake parts at Rock Auto and stainless lines from either Chevs of the 40's or National Chevy Association. Run DOT 5 silicone in it and you will likely never have to touch it again. ( I know , I know , others will disagree!) .
Other comments
I'm with you on the seat belts, Just make sure you find good anchors for them
Nice photos , green is my colour of choice.
Door panels are tough as they were formed in a press to get the compound curve and I've heard are hard to duplicate.
As for the interior tailgate handle. yep .unobatanium. Are you actually missing the lock mechanism itself? Double check that as there is a pot metal cam inside the lock that breaks and duplicates your symptom. You can carefully disassemble the lock and get a machine shop to duplicate the cam (or spent some time with some scrap aluminum and a file!) . This I know !
I think you will file that the interior trim is wood grained metal, not plastic . Only plastic on the car are the interior knobs.
Door handles and possible interchange?? Try GM Parts wiki. I don't know who posted this stuff but is is amazing . I have a heck of a time searching it but if you are patient, you can usually find what you need.
From the 1954 parts manual:
http://www.gmpartswiki.com/getpage?pageid=121311
Door illustration showing handle group ID 10.512:
http://www.gmpartswiki.com/getpage?pageid=121888
Wish I had your third seat!!!!
Brad
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Shop manual can be found here although a paper copy is nice to thumb through in the shop . That site also has some valuable info in the 49 Fisher SW body manual which is the same body as yours. If your wagon is rust free you are lucky; rocker panels , floors , quarters, taillgate. I can send you pictures of what not to buy!!
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/
Brad
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Correct mid 20's Buick rear window detail
in Buick - Pre War
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Hugh
Pretty impressive!
I think some TIG welding should make an invisible joint after grinding and polishing.
Brad