bradsan
-
Posts
258 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by bradsan
-
-
This is a great 'thread'. Thanks again to Dave and all who take the time to post info like this.
-
2
-
1
-
-
Sorry , not clear enough!
Agreed, 1924 was the first year for a Ford cab which I referred to as 'factory' . I believe the steel cabs were still an option and standard was a bare chassis to hone your DYI cab skills up until the end of TT production. I'll probably be corrected on that since I'm going off of memory! Mine is a wooden cab as well . Locally made no doubt.
From the MTFCI site library:
http://www.cimorelli.com/mtdl/1924/1924univtruckad.pdf
If you look at the stake bed option, you'll see just how much room there is in that cab!
-
That rear wheel screams TT to me and looks just like the one attached to my TT in the garage.
Great vehicle to start on; firewall forward parts are readily available as most of them are shared with the cars. Biggest difference is frame and rear end. There are some repro TT rear end parts available but not like the car selection.
I don't believe that is a factory cab which makes your job easier as most of the wooden cabs put on the 'chassis only' TT's were not done by fancy coachbuilders but by local 'artists'. Basic woodworking skills should see you through.
Having been there , here are some thoughts:
- if you are over 5'10" or long legged or 'stocky', you might want to check how the cab dimensions work for you before you duplicate it . Mine has an 8' factory stake bed and a C-cab and it is tight fit behind the wheel. You might want to customize to give yourself some room if you can still work the dump box in behind.
- they are geared way, way down from the cars. How else do you move a ton of stuff with the same 20HP motor?
- Be forewarned, they are slow and noisy in the cab. I hope you have access to some country roads ( I wish I did!) because they are heart-stopping in modern city traffic.
- If you want additional speed ( because you are not planning to haul a ton of stuff) an auxillary transmssion ( IE Warford) is available.
- The Ruxstell 2 speed rear-end for for the TT works the opposite of the car Ruxstell and makes it slower. I know.... we tried!
- If you get the auxillary transmission, you'll really, really want to consider Rocky Mountain Brakes ( external contracting) if they are not already on the truck. You'll have no brakes if the transmission gets stuck between shifts for what ever reason. ( the cab and controls are tight fitting and you might not mean to shift it! ) The parking brake might keep you parked but it won't stop you once you are moving.
They are a lot of fun and it will make you and others smile when it runs.
The MTFCI and MTFCA sites are both great resources; both with great forums, lots of good advice and lots of opinions!
Brad
-
1
-
-
Its made of the same crappy pot metal as the speedometer.! Usually it swells and seizes in the bore which usually results in someone forcing the spark lever until the lever or the gears at the bottom of the steering column break. Or both!! It will run if the spark was set right when it froze.....until it crumbles! Which it will !
You can replace it with a later cast iron unit . Hugh has info on that of course!
Don't force the spark or throttle levers, those are not as easy to find replacements for .
-
1
-
-
Is that wiring just for the heater or is it for the entire dash?
Looking good either way .Not sure if you are concerned about the appearance of the 'shiny' tape ( at least that is how in looks in the photos) but a final wrap with black 'hockey' tape will give it a period look. Might be called athletic tape south of the border.
-
Sorry , perhaps I wasn't clear enough.
Picture I attached shows the new part in stainless JB Welded into the old part. Anything not shiny is the old part!
You need to have one fabbed if you don't have the tools. If you have a metal brake , make sure it is sturdy enough to handle;
stainless is not fun to form, add a couple of gauge sizes to your brake's capacity for stainless. I had the basic piece formed at a local metal shop and then added the holes and closed the end myself.
Bigger holes are 1/2" and smaller are 3/8"
Here is some pictures of the two separate pieces.
-
2
-
-
Was wondering where my post went and realised you've got two going!
See my 2nd response under Our Cars. I don't think there is anything super technical about the plate it so long as you get some water moving to the back of the block. I was thinking of making a flat plate and drilling 38 holes to match the cover but those covers can already be impossible to leakproof and I didn't want to add another gasket and compound the problem!
The other issue that comes with running without the plate is the the full force of the pump is directed at the gap between two cylinders which , at least in my case, accelerates the wear on the cast iron in that specific location .There is a noticeable difference on my engine in the block deterioration at that location. Could also be caused/contributed by the cavitation effects of running straight water ( or so I've heard)
Brad
-
Common issue with this vintage of auto and the casting opening they had to leave .
Auburns have the same issue.
I found an old article in the ACD culb newsletter that had a photo of an original distribution plate.
Not sure about Nash, but Auburn has the water inlet centered in the jacket cover. In the photo below, the front of the engine is to the left
This means that the coolant doesn't serve the rear cylinders very well without the plate
Some interesting findings from the original photo:
1) The front is pinched off, the rear is open
2) the holes are not all the same size, smaller holes where the inlet tube is
3 Holes line up with the gaps between the cylinders
4) the holes are set towards the bottom.
I made my replacement out of stainless using the same gauge as the cover. with flanges the same depth as the cover
I JB Welded it in , that is probably a mistake. The originals were likely tack welded but I already had the cover painted and glyptaled when I found out about this!. So far it hasn't been a problem, likely because I haven't got it running yet!
Brad
-
1
-
-
I have the heater in my 52 wagon and didn't realise, until you asked the question, that it was an accessory.
Did the Deluxes and Belairs come with these factory equipped ?
Or were these were done by dealers given the separate directions and lack of discussion in the shop manual?
I'm trying to imagine the poor schmuck at the dealership that had to install one of these every couple of days!
-
A bit late but here is a link to the start of the relevant portion of the accessories manual . Wiring gets addressed if you keep clicking to the next page! Lots of detail on how the entire system was to be installed.
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/accessories/1951am/51aim27.htm
This is a great website, I keep waiting for it to fall into neglect when something happens to its owner.
Brad
-
I remember being faced with the same problem when I did mine . Was terrified of trying to peen the edges of the shaft over. Was also thinking about 'what if I have to take it apart again ' because that is how my brain works despite the reality of the situation which is the car has to go back together and be in use before you actually have to take it apart again!
My 'tractor mechanic solution ' ( tractor mechanics being a hot topic on the AACA these days). was as follows:
- instead of the brass shaft, use some stainless welding rod. I believe the shaft diameter is 1/8"
- Cut the shaft about 3/16 " longer than the width needed.
- buy the correct size of Circlip for shaft dia ( hope I'm using the right term here, you know , the ones with three raised internal bosses as shown. You can even get them in stainless if you wish!
- get some thin cut off discs for your Dremel
- use what ever combination of motorised apparatus you can find to create a redneck lathe ( presuming you don't have a real one) I clamped the Dremel in the vise and chucked the new shaft in the cordless drill
- cut a groove in each end of the shaft to accept the circlip
- assemble
Hope that makes sense.
I haven't tested it yet but the vacuum pump is on the shelf , hopefully ready to go!
I also gave in and bought the repro lid because i didn't trust the threads for the banjo fitting in the old top.
Brad
-
7
-
-
Ernie
They are pretty much the same design as the earlier 1925 part.
Hugh Leidlein did his usual technical masterpiece on how to make a modified one which you can find here:
Likely the only key difference to look out for is the shaft length as that does vary model to model and year to year.
Only word of caution is that the eight screw holes for mounting the fan blades to the hub are 'clocked' and not symmetrical . One hole is offset; on 1925- 26 anyway!
You can probably get it fabricated if the wallet is willing! I was fortunate to find a retired machinist who worked for a token wage. the biggest expenas was the chunk of aluminum and the stainless for the shaft . THe sealed bearings are cheap and plentiful.
-
1
-
-
Kris Arenson is the guy that can do repros of mats .
He mills them out of stock and then finishes them with a uv resistant urethane .
The more intricate they are , the pricier they get!
http://www.runningboardrubber.com/Specialty_Rubber_Parts.html
I've seen his work and was impressed.
-
Thanks for the info.
I've had my eye on their kits for some time .
I asked about because I recently tried to get rid of two buckets of used parts washer solvent at our local municipal recycling facility and boy , did that turn into an exercise!
- the municipal guys would take it as long as it is was in a 1 gallon container. My pails ( purchased retail at our version of Harbor Freight) were 5 gallon pails.
- 5 gallon pails are considered commercial . No, you can't just put it in a 1 gallon oil jug as it has to be marked with the original label.
- Was advised to call the recycling line, very helpful lady gave me several numbers of commercial disposal places.
- called several, only one would take it for a small fee of $90CDN per bucket! which was about twice what I paid for it.
- Eventually made friends( or just plain wore him out) with the guy at the municipal facility who listened to my whining and turned his back while the buckets went in the bin.
Point is, just make sure you can dispose of the stuff you are getting at a price you will be happy with!
The Caswell kits aren't cheap. and the disposal costs might surprise you.
I'd make a comment here about how does government best encourage the right behavior when it comes to disposing of goods and materials but that might turn into a political discussion so I won't!
-
1
-
-
According to the website, you can chrome plate as well.
I'd love to try it but ......
Biggest question for me, which I didn't see addressed on the Caswell website, is disposal.
Plating companies are noted for having some of the most contaminated sites. They are a heavily regulated industry from an EPA point of view and cleaning up their sites is a nightmare. That is one reason plating has become expensive.
How safe are these to use at home and what does one do with solutions when you are done? I imagine parts have to be rinsed off between processes. How does one do that without sending product down the drain? I typed in 'disposal' in the search field on the Caswell site and got back crickets.
The manual might address it but it costs $30 . If anyone has info on the enviro affects, please post some thoughts.
I accept that our hobby is 'messy' and I try not to feel too guilty about the VOC's i send out the door since I am a small contributor to the global output but metals are a whole different ball game.
If you are going to use this product please keep in mind the downstream users of your waste ( physically and temporally ) and do so responsibly.
-
I think the tip translates to if you are reaching for the box wrench to add to the flathead screwdriver you are using on the carb think again..and then think again.....and if you still have the box wrench in your hand hit yourself on the head with it because it will still be cheaper than getting someone to fix the problem you are about to create..
I was fortunate that Mark was still rebuilding carbs when I had to send him my 'problem'. The number of people with the skills, abilities and, most importantly, inclination to manufacture small parts is dwindling rapidly
Heat is good until you have a fine thread fastener then the situation can become quite galling!
Great tip. Especially the patience to let things cool down
-
1
-
1
-
-
I'll defer to AB-buff on the rod issue since he actually owns one and sticking with 'as designed' is never a bad idea! After all, 'Ask the man who owns one' isn't just an advertising slogan
That said, there was a lot of 'polite' discussion about poured vs insert babbitt durability back when Herm was posting . Herm had some pretty strong feelings on that front.
I'm not certain if the 'industry's switch to inserts was the higher compression 'pounding' issue or an ease of manufacture/convenience of repair issue.
Before I completely derail Matt's post by resurrecting that discussion, there are many good posts to search if you want to see if a bearing engineer ever weighed in on the issue!
Now if this were a tractor and I was its mechanic......
-
Matt
Pretty sure the bronze main shells can be be rebabbitted, Maybe these guys can help?
https://theoldmotor.com/?p=47859
or
https://www.kohnkerebabbittingservice.com/recent-jobs.html
See the 28 Hupp. I know Herm passed away, hopefully son John is still doing the same quality of work
No big deal to babbitt the rods if you have to IMHO. Even the inserts run on babbitt, you just don't get the convenience of a quick bearing service!
Ross Pistons doesn't seem to have any problem providing rings for their custom pistons.
Brad
-
2
-
-
FWIW, Here's a short interesting ( to me anyway) read in answer to the emissions question , first study I've seen from one of the Big Three ( as they used to be known) .
I've not read the actual study and can offer no further criticism or support. I'm sure there are flies to pick on methodology and assumptions if one was to spend the time doing so. The website I've pulled it from is obviously pro-EV.
Brad
-
Followed Ply33's instructions.
Donor gauge at LPS was about $25.
Works great
-
2
-
-
GM parts wiki. It's mostly Chevrolet, It is awkward as heck and takes bit of fiddling around but it can be your friend . Not sure if the part numbers are specific to Chevrolet or if GM but if you find a Caddilac part number for your regulator, you could try searching one of the manuals shown.
-
I can't vouch for their product as I haven't purchased anything but if you look at their store, they do firewall pads for other makes, like Auburn and Dodge.
If you go into an individual items description does say they are made out of ABS plastic so maybe they are the fiberglass one you are speaking of.
Maybe they can help or others can weigh in on their services.
https://www.pontiacparts.net/about/
https://www.ebay.com/str/californiapontiacrestoration
Brad
-
A really engaging topic near and dear to my heart.
An unfortunate consequence of too many years spent working in the claims side of the auto insurance world is that one must be careful to define what is meant by the word 'use'.
Here in the soon to be Great White North ( which will soon have me pining for the formerly known as Wet Coast when i have to shovel snow; apparently on Christmas no less! ) our courts have decided that removing the bent steering bracket from your vintage vehicle and taking it into the backyard to beat it into shape with a hammer on your concrete back steps with such vigor that it flies up and hits your overly inquisitive neighbour in the head is, in fact , 'a use to which a vehicle is normally put'.
Or , as Inigo Montoya so aptly put it, 'I do not think that word means what you think it means'
My point in all of this , as any one who owns a vintage commercial vehicle of the flat deck persuasion knows, is that once they are parked in the garage that flat level 5'x8' space behind the cab just becomes too attractive and is soon put to 'use' storing parts for the rest of the projects
I submit to you that my commercial vehicle is ALWAYS in use.😇
Merry Christmas everyone.
-
2
-
1
-
7
-
-
And this is the Pre-War forum. Got lost in the bytes🤯
1921 Oldsmobile Model 46 - I ask myself, Why?
in Our Cars & Restoration Projects
Posted
Teflon tape is fine for household plumbing....... unless you have a hydronic system with pumps. In which case, just like engines, it is not!
Brand new system installed by others , failed in the middle of Xmas holidays ( that's when they are designed to fail...right!) . Cause of failure? PTFE tape from upstream threaded joints was wrapped around the pump vane shaft. Keep PTFE tape away from any mechanical system. I hardly use the tape anymore and just grab the sealant instead; it seems to work better as well!