bradsan
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Posts posted by bradsan
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Hugh
Brilliant handle !
Wow , what a fast solution.
Hugh , how did you end up with two of the correct SG units but 2 wrong pinion gears? Were they correct for the earlier years that the D283 fit?
BTW Engine is looking great!
Brad
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The Buick Master Parts list for 1932 lists the casting number for the cylinder block assembly 1930 Ser 50-60 as 228257 so I would say you are on the right track.
Brad
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Hugh
I noticed the same thing!
I'm thinking the low speeds of these cars made it so the only real concerns with an out of balance wheel assembly would be on the steering axle as it would get transferred to the steering wheel and the operator woiuldn't be happy with the sensation.
Rear wheels not so much.
Brad
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Hugh
You certainly got my interest so I had a look at this guy's video which puts your 13 gram variance into perspective. Wow. But then you'll never hit 5000-6000 rpm with the Buick...I hope!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QLpiF0E0EJU
For our Buicks and the small ends, what about reducing weight by replacing the wrist pin bolt with a low profile head instead of the Buick high head bolt? Couple of grams
How does one account for any piston weight difference or is dealt with separately?
Will you be porting and polishing the head too??
Brad
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How does one remove porcelain from manifolds?
Not that I have one to do but I have been trying to source a specific used wood stove that, more often than not, is porcelain coated and the finish is usually damaged in some fashion or another. I would be happy with at traditional black stove polish finish if I could get the porcelain off.
Apparently it is not easily removed. The only process I could find online was a molten salt bath which I daresay is not for the DIY faint of heart with a operating temp of 900F and then likely a disposal problem after you are done.
Kind of off topic but still relevant i think!
Brad
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On 9/6/2018 at 11:30 PM, Tinindian said:
In Canadian provinces most of the cars with serial numbers were registered using that number. There may have been exceptions but I have never seen one. Ford of course was one exception as the Model T only had an engine number.
Interesting, I have heard otherwise but have no source for that. I do know the 1932 registration I have shows model number , engine number and reg number on the first line. Serial number on the second line after body number but i can't say with certainty that they are listed in order of importance.
Of course none of these are identified as such, so in today's world, you only know what they mean if you are familiar with your marque. I don't think the person who responded to my request had any idea what the number on the registration meant other than the registration number itself.
I guess my point could better be stated that back then , engine number was at least as important in registering and identifying the car as the serial number was and appears to have been required to register the car . I suspect ( and have heard ) that it was because it was a lot harder to change an engine number (Model T's excepted !) than a serial number plate attached to frame or a floor board. That appear to be the case in BC anyway. Out of curiosity, do you have the original SK reg for your Pontiac and does it have the engine number on it?
Since he is missing the firewall data plate , If Harry gives either BC or AB registrar the engine number , he might find a match that leads back to his serial number. That was how it worked for one of my other cars.
Brad
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Harry
The Alberta plate is an interesting find.
Do you know anything about the history of the car? Do you have a title or registration?
I'm not sure about Alberta but in BC, ICBC acts as the registrar of motor vehicles and has records going back to the 1900's
If you have a bill of sale showing you own the car and want to spend $25 on a notary, you can submit a request for a registration search.
Most cars back in the 20'and 30's were registered by engine number so you'll want to include all available ID numbers. ( frame , engine , etc ) .
If they find your car , there are steps you can take to have the vehicle registration put into your name instead of applying for a 'builders registration'
If you want some more details, send me a PM.
20's Buicks are lots of fun and a bit of a challenge because there are no real parts suppliers other than the good people that you'll meet on this forum.
Brad
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Maybe the Cadillac is this one? I doubt there is more than one 58 convertible on the Island.
One of my favourite threads
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For those who don't want to take their horn button apart ( and I would not advise it)
Here is a photo I forgot I took of the exploded horn button and the exploded parts that go with it!
The rivets are set/cast into the button bakelite and then the brass disc/body assembly is riveted to it so replacing the rivets is pretty much impossible! The body can be recreated from a piece of 1" Delrin rod although it gets pretty intricate.
Brad
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Hugh
Yes it is riveted together. Ours was , you guessed it, broken.
Not only was the button cracked in half but the bakelite holder of all the contact parts was broken too .
If you have a source for a replacement , I'm all ears as I never found one.
I ended up having my retired machinist fiddle with making a new button and a new contact holder out of Delrin. Replaced the rivets with screws so, you know , I could service it .
The parts inside are simple
Brad
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Hugh
Question for you on the rivet tool.
Is there any reason why you went with the star tool instead of just a regular tubular rivet tool.
Was this as per Buick or some other reason.Was it the recommendation of IBS? I'm thinking something to do with how it grabs the woven material.
Brad
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Yep, received the same email and presumed it was not from Terry,. Straight to Trash
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Here is a link to a good discussion on similar issue.
Maybe there is something to the latest epoxy Curt is trying?
Brad
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I polished both pieces and left them that way. Spider too!
I'm almost positive that is the way McLaughlin did it. ( I triple dog dare anyone to prove me wrong)
If you do the same , your car will almost be as nice as a McLaughlin?
Brad
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Ours were like Larry's. Some sort of layered fiber material.
Exposure to the elements had them mostly falling apart.
Had my favourite retired machinist turn a full circle of material out of plastic ( Delrin?) with inner step on the ID and then I just cut out sections as needed. One circle will do about 2 cars. You'll see what I mean if you look at it!
With the plastic , I don't think you need any lubrication.
Brad
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Quote
and what will Walt do in two years when Tesla goes out of business? He wont be able to machine new parts?
LOL
Use his Tesla 3D home printer to make a new one?
And yet here we have a whole group of people who invest time and money in cars from companies that have already gone out of business!
QuoteA Veteran, 96 years old, still kicking, he can drive what ever he feels like. This country should pay for his charge/gas.
Not to mention a 96 year old is willing to take on the challenge of learning to drive something completely different . I have sometimes have problems with using my 'smart' phone and I'm a long ways from 96.
I'm not sold on the Model 3 'display' dash and I think its too distracting for drivers but then some might think a brass cars multitude of levers and pedals are equally distracting.
So if a 96 year old can master a Model 3 then shame on me.
Brad
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Curt
That sucks.
How did the rest of the engine check out when magnafluxed? If the deck and valve seats were okay and since the engine is all already all apart, what do you have to loose by trying the concrete repair?
The cost of materials is pretty cheap ,
You'd likely want to sleeve the cylinders which ever way you went. but the rest of it would just bolt back together.
The problem with a new block is that it might still have the same problem or another one entirely ( like the common cracks from the head bolt holes to the valve seats)
Brad
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Ronnie
How long are you going to keep us in suspense?
I'm anxiously waiting to decide if we should continue with ( restart?) our restoration or start on another car?
Brad
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As per Mercer09, in the Chevy world , the Tin Woody refers to 49-54 cars. I've never thought of the 60's and 70's versions as Tin Woodys but there is no reason why not I guess.
49- 52 retained some vestigial real wood in the interior, mainly the mahogany door panels and oak(ash?) window sills. Beware cars without original interior panels as it is almost impossible to recreate the factory forming process to get the right compound curves in the mahogany plywood.
Grog's example looks to be a reproduction attempt as the originals were dark mahogany
The exterior 'wood' was originally a Dinoc decal and you can still get a similar product with colours that are pretty close. Installation is not much more complicated than window film...so I'm told. I prefer the original two-tone look over the monotone look in the ad Grog found
They are very dependable cars and dead simple to work on mechanically.
Like most of the cars of that era, they are prone to rust in the rockers, floor boards and tailgate and that does get expensive. See both Bloo's pink Olds ad and Grog's ad and you can see what I mean. The good news is that Chev , Pontiac and Olds shared the same rear body so you can scavenge donor parts.from all three makes if they are not already suffering the same issues. There are also lots of re-pop panels but that only makes part of the job easy !
They have just enough chrome to make it painful and it usually needs to be done as the quality of the original chrome apparently suffered from the Korean War effort..
They are also very collectible ( look online and you will see many examples treated to a less than stock restoration ) Prices for a nicely restored version are about what you are going to sink into a fun $2500 car if you want to restore itSee Brass is Best's post for the best advice , which I have studiously ignored and therefore have multiple cars, no money and only one driver .
Styling cues and details are quirky enough to give you sense of something unique when you are driving it around and go for the three speed so you have something to do and can listen to that marvelous Chevy whine.
I happen to like their styling but then my cousin and I own one that was passed on as a family heirloom. It's waiting its turn in line having suffered from being undercoated ( a really bad idea as ,where the undercoating of the day failed , it became a moisture trap with predictable results.). I was 17 when we took over the car . Had a lot of fun learning how not to do things but got it running and stopping in spite of my efforts and the family's skepticism.
So to Brass is Best's advice I would add, if you buy it to have fun , don't ever forget why you bought it and do not start taking it apart once you have it running!!!
See this one
https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/chevrolet/styleline/2097967.html
Dave A , I'm going to have to disagree and suggest that your post belongs under under a Plastic Woody thread . I believe the pecking order is real woody , tin woody and then plastic woody ?
Brad
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Definitely a 1947 , 1950 was a totally different body style.
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Kyle
All I can say is whatever you've got, you've got it bad! I think you are almost at dealership status with these cars.
I kept looking ad Frank's car , not only is it unique but it is also driveable . Unfortunately , it is the money/space issue for me .
Awesome purchase and I'm really glad to see someone 'rescue' Frank's car.
Brad
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As per Carl's advice on brakes, most everything is available except some of the brass junction blocks be careful with those.. You can get a pre-bent stainless line set for the car that will fit right in and it will be the last set of lines you need.
One thing that does do wrong with the rear brakes is actually a driveline issue. If you rear end is too full of oil and weeping out at the axle seals , it could be your u-joint yoke seal. when they go, they allow the transmission oil to run down the torque tube and into the rear end. This is not good for rear brakes and really not good for your transmission. for this reason,keep an eye on the transmission oil as it can disappear without any external signs of drips. There is a replacement driveshaft bearing and seal available from vendors like Chevs of the 40's and the job is pretty easy if you buy or rent the special tool. Do not try it without the tool as you will not succeed, you will just run out of bad words to say.
Brad
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36 minutes ago, Rusty_OToole said:
Thanks Carl it is nice to know you are appreciated. Some of these questions take some working out but it is all in fun isn't it.
Antique from your pictures it appears you have the original engine. They had a tin pan on the right side that ran all the way up the head, newer models had a shorter one that didn't cover the head. For confirmation look at the serial number stamped in the block, just behind the oil dip stick.
Here is a page on identifying your motor by number.http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/models/engine.htm
Keep in mind that anything can be fixed on your car. It is one of the most popular old models, all parts are available and they are often cheaper than for newer cars.
Ah yes , the tin pan on the side with the wonderful slotted flat head 'stovebolts' ( if only Mr Robertson had won the fastener battle, the world would be a better place) There is one behind the distributor that can be done without removing said distributor but you will need a 90 degree flat head 'wrench' of just the right size and an ample supply of swear words.
Brad
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Hugh
I'll take a set!
Brad
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Starter Generator clash with the sliding gear -pre 1925
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
I'll second that.
And this !!
There are a great group of guys with 1925 Buicks busy writing a restoration manual for me! One day I'll catch up.
Brad