decembro

Too bad you don't want a 73 Centurion convertible. It's currently my daily driver and it's for sale. Has some rust.

The fuel pump on this thing just has an o-ring on the shaft that goes into the block. No gasket. These things leaked oil from everywhere. Valve cover gaskets, intake gaskets, distributor o-ring, rear main etc. Check around the distributor. As far as the power steering, there should be a nut on the back side that slides, the bolt at the top that slides, and the bottom bolt where the thing pivots, if I remember correctly.

I would recommend the R44S. These are common. We stock them at our garage, so they are a current plug, readily available and they'll cut down on radio interference.

Let's see, that means my rusty 73 ought to be worth about $4500!!! It's light blue with two red doors! That makes it a one-of-a-kind collectible, RIGHT??

This was my first time and just loved it. My only complaint was we need more vendors of 88 parts!! I just can't help it. I love my 66 Dynamic convertible, but it needs a few items to be nice. Thanks for a great time. Met some wonderful people there.

I have a 73 Centurion convertible that will soon be up for sale, unfortunately. It needs some work as far as body rust and floors are concerned, but it runs great (as a Buick 350 should!) It's mostly primer right now, but there is enough there to make a fairly nice cruiser. Reasonable offers entertained. I have replaced the carb (incorrect), fuel tank, radiator, all brake and fuel lines, calipers, wheel cylinders. Turbo 350 was rebuilt a couple months ago. Currently it's a reliable daily driver. Top and dash are good, have parade boot. All there but the chrome is all pitted, front seats ripped. Everything but the top works, but I'm working on getting a relay for it.

Sometimes you can clean the little resister-looking thing (technical term) inside the MAF with brakekleen and achieve similar results without spending the cash. They get dirty in normal driving, but I suspect there may be more stuff in the air at the track??!! This would account for your decreased times each time. I suspect you will see a similar problem from the new one over time as it gets dirty again. A P0336 Crank sensor code probably means you have a cracked one, or it shook loose, or the crank sensor or PCM was replaced without relearning the PCM. Is the SES light on still? Try letting the engine idle until the light flashes, or if it doesn't flash, raise the idle to 3000 and hold it. The light should start to flash and then go out after 30 seconds (if you no longer have misfires).

You haven't said if you tried to adjust the mixture screws on this carb. Are there still plugs over the mixture screws? Usually with a code 54, if the mc solenoid is good, the carb needs adjusting.

Seems familiar, possibly 72ish 98 wheel covers?

I'm trying to figure out a place to keep a third convertible!!! I just bought a 66 Dynamic 88 last weekend. I want the 61, but I have to find a place for it.

I sent you an email about the '66. I just bought a Dynamic convertible. I don't even know yet what I need!

I just ran into this exact problem. I bought a 66 Dynamic 88 convertible over the weekend. It has 235/75R 15's on it. No wonder the speedo is off. I know it takes 8.55/14, but I can't figure out what that is in the metric size. I guess we are all talking about the same size tire here? I looked at 225/70R 14's yesterday. Maybe that's the best fit?

Hey if you find two sets let me know!! I have a 73 Centurion convert. I need floor pans for too. It's a Michigan car. They're SUPPOSED to rust out! !

You might try www.convertibleparts.com

Right on Reatta Man! You took the words right out of my mouth. I couldn't have said it better!! It's just like the old commercial, "You can pay me now, or you can pay me later." Steve

try www.shermanparts.com

Thanks Adam, I appreciate it.

Seriously? Nobody has or can suggest where to get a dipstick tube, oil pan or convertible top motor for my 73 Centurion??

Would you post pics, price, and location please?

I'd take it in a heartbeat. Just don't have the cash, unless I steal it from Mom!!

You have one of two things. You either have a bad ground at the dash or the lights themselves, or possibly the wrong bulbs (6 volt?) Pardon my ignorance, but are they dual filament bulbs? Is the correct filament illuminating? Turn signals and brake lights are brighter than parking lights or tail lights. If the wrong filament is lighting you've found the location of your bad ground/ broken wire.

All the plugs are accessible on your engine without any jacking of the engine. You should be able to have it done at a reasonable price. (This is not a Jag or some other high priced tuneup).HOWEVER, what is reasonable to you, and what is reasonable based on the market may be two different things. I recommend that you make sure you are comparing apples to apples (definition of a tuneup varies depending on who you talk to and what your needs are). Shop around. Get a quote from a local independent garage with a GOOD reputation (see me if you're in Michigan!) and compare it to the dealer and maybe just for grins price a tuneup shop (but don't go there for the work, just the quote). Armed with that, choose the place you want to do business. It doesn't hurt if you have an ASE certified technician/mechanic do the work. Good luck to you. Steve Lentz

When you said "see you in Batavia next year" did you mean Batavia, Illinois? I went to the website but I couldn't find anywhere where it said where next year's would be. Steve

Sorry guys, but nobody gets a 50/50 split anymore, and 60/40 is pretty rare. Out of the $23 the dealership made, the technician probably got about$6-7. The washer bottle IS a bear to get to. The car either has to go up in the air (which takes time) or the tech has to slide under it with a creeper and work with dirt, road salt, etc falling in his eyes. Rarely can you leave a dealership (or any repair facility) THESE days for under $100. By the way, did you ever think the screws could be loose from the factory? Sometimes it takes awhile for things to rattle completely loose. Maybe another job was done at another time when the screws weren't tightened properly. In the last 30 years I've been working on cars, I've seen a lot of weird stuff happen.

First thought that comes to mind is maybe you have a bad ground on the voltage regulator. Just for grins, hook a jumper wire from the mounting screw of the regulator to the negative post of the battery and recheck the voltage. 15.5 volts is the absolute maximum for something of this vintage. Another possibility is that your battery is fried now from having boiled and the new regulator won't help it because it's too late. Have the battery tested. Might be sulfated. You really want 13.8 to 14.8 volts. 14.2 is ideal. Find out what amperage you're getting out of the generator too. Might be the generator is frying your regulator. Steve