Chuck Richardson

Thanks for the replies. The axles are where I thought, but the Hotchkiss rear had me concerned. We're looking forward to getting the G home and perhaps we'll get it out to the Trek in a couple of years.

California has had a no cell phone while driving law on the books for a year now to no effect. I believe I see more people driving/talking now.

Very cool. I doubt it is original.

While this post probably should be in "Garage, Trailer & Towing," I thought the specific qualities of Franklin suspensions dictated asking it here. I'm going to be trailering a 1906 G touring and a 1917 cloverleaf. How is the best way to tie down the cars. I am concerned about strapping to the axles; I don't want to pull foward and back too much. Strapping to the top of the springs would seem to invite a bounce and then slack and jerk on the cars. Am I overthinking this? Or not thinking enough? Thanks

There is information on my site, which you can tag below. Also, join the Mawell-Briscoe discussion group on Yahoo.

Bill Just a guess, but you probably wouldn't go too far off course if you follow the Ford Model T tightening regime: clean with a tap all of the bolt holes; tighten bolts in order from the center out; tighten in two or three rounds of increasing torque; tighten to about 50 lbs; retighten after running the engine.

The Maxwell-Briscoe Motor Company, founded June 1904, acquired by the United States Motor Company in 1909, first bankrupt in January 1913, purchased by the Standard Motor Company, renamed The Maxwell Motor Company, taking over the Flanders Motor Company and the Chalmers Motor Company, becoming the Maxwell Motor Corporation, and operating until 1925 when it reorganized as The Chrysler Company, entered bankruptcy again, April 30, 2009. Demonstrating, in the automobile business, that there is nothing new under the sun.

From Wikipedia: "An engine is a mechanical device that produces some form of output from a given input. An engine whose purpose is to produce kinetic energy output from a fuel source is called a prime mover; alternatively, a motor is a device which produces kinetic energy from other forms of energy (such as electricity, a flow of hydraulic fluid or compressed air). A motor car (automobile) has a starter motor and motors to drive pumps (fuel, power steering, etc) – but the power plant that propels the car is called an engine. The term 'motor' was originally used to distinguish the new internal combustion engine -powered vehicles from earlier vehicles powered by a steam engine (as in steam roller and motor roller). Military engines included siege engines, large catapults, trebuchets and battering rams."

.001-2 is what I run on my Mascotte with essentially the same lubrication system.

I found the attached in my 1915 <span style="font-style: italic">Audels</span>.

According to James Zordich's article in the HCCG, the 1910 AA was red. 1910 paint was often lacquer, which ages and changes color. So the original tone is likely to be the best protected from the elements, but not necessarily. Also, Maxwells were sometimes special painted. You can find a pdf of Maxwell specs on my site, www. maxwell-messenger.info, along with other information. Good luck with your reassembly.

I have heard of using exhaust to pressurize fuel systems, often in Model T's. It requires sealing the tank--usually the vent on the cap, and putting a flame blocker in the line from the the exhaust and the tank. I don't think there was anything much more to it than that. As I understand it, the vapor density in the gas tank is too high to be explosive. Gasoline has to be at a pretty specific air/fuel mixture to explode. Also, exhaust has no oxygen, which should inhibit explosions and fires.

My Series 9 has two oiling fittings on top, this one has a single grease fitting, so Series 10? I don't know when Franklin adopted the Gemmer boxes or what pre-Series 9 looks like.

Looks like my Series 9 (1916-21) steering gear. Others can tell if it is earlier, later or both.

Have you tried Olson's? http://www.olsonsgaskets.com

The best I can find, Benny never owned a Maxwell.

Howard--A couple thoughts. The band linings on Model T's is flexible and slightly loosely woven. It is cut longer than the bands, then installed by riveting from the ends to the center, while compressing the lining to fit. I don't know if you can do that with your brake material. When a rigid material like wood is used on the bands, it is installed with countersunk rivets, tines out, heads in. My guess is that the orientation of the rivets is going to depend upon the brake band material.

There were nearly 100 Franklin's of all vintages (1903-1934) at this year's Trek in Cazenovia. Most of the cars toured for the entire week (a 1910 Model G did over 400 miles). Some of the cars were driven to the Trek from their homes. Last year a 1930 Pursuit Phaeton was driven from Seattle and back. The cars make fine drivers. And, if you're not in a hurry, the mid-series cars, (9, 10, 11) are comfortable and easy to drive. As for parts, they are not particularly difficult to find, especially with the resources of the club available. Parts for my Maxwells are far scarcer in my experience.

That is my understanding too. 28x3 means 22" rim. That is what I measure on my AB. BTW, Maxwells used the same size wheels front and rear for each model.

For 1910, the model: AA 28x3 Q series 30x3½ E & G 34x4

Go to my site, www.maxwell-messenger.info, and then click on "What's New." On the July 1 update you will find a pdf of a copy of the Co-operator with an article by Benj. Briscoe that contains production numbers for early Maxwells.

Also he car ought to be 12 volt, so the coil is probably overloaded (unless someone put a resistor in series to lower the voltage).

For an early 9A: 1. Left front axle yoke pin oil reservoir (drawing #22902) 2. Steering connection ball (#20988) 3. Two (2) Knuckle tie rod socket dust covers and springs (#84829) 4. Either a Sparton or Newtone (#21282) electric horn (that fits in engine compartment) 5. Electric Horn push button (#20064) 6. Two (2) 9A headlight glass retainers (#25853) (for the early 8 3/4" glass) 7. 51-tooth crankshaft sprocket (#21298) 8. 78-link starter chain

Two more parts needed: 7. 51-tooth crankshaft sprocket (#21298) 8. 78-link starter chain

Needed for 1917 Series 9 Cloverleaf Roadster: 1. Left front axle yoke pin oil reservoir (drawing #22902) 2. Steering connection ball (#20988) 3. Two (2) Knuckle tie rod socket dust covers and springs (#84829) 4. Either a Sparton or Newtone (#21282) electric horn (that fits in engine compartment) 5. Electric Horn push button (#20064) 6. Two (2) 9A headlight glass retainers (#25853) (for the early 8 3/4" glass)