Chuck Richardson

The gear remains attached to the starter/generator. I don't know how the Dodge procedure worked. I believe you have to remove the front gear case cover to manage the chain.

In my limited experience, there are no established or reliable sources of Maxwell parts. Some collectors have resources they have gathered. Otherwise, it is make it from scratch, find it at a swap meet, or use a parts car. If someone has better information, I would welcome it. Other owners can be helpful, and connecting with them using internet resources such as these forums seems to work.

As Mark says, the smaller (10) gauge allows you to do long runs. If you used 12-14g on a long run, the resistance losses might not meet the design parameters of the controller and the brakes.

Steve--I'm not sure what your question is, but 10g wire has a larger current capacity than the 12-14, and thus would not be the weak link. If the controller was properly engineered, the 12-14g wire would be adequate. I don't know how long the new wiring is, but a smaller gauge would mean that you could wire for a longer distance with less resistance.

Steve, Harold Sharon suggested using wine corks glued together with superglue. Cheap and fun to make.

Scott--The Early Maxwell's without planetary transmissions used a single pedal for both clutch and brake. Push the pedal down half way, it would disengage the clutch; push it all the way, it applies the brake. The parking brake was similarly arranged. Often, as on my 1912 Mascotte, owners would separate the two functions and add a brake pedal.

My 1917 Series 9 Franklin has a 3 brush Dyneto starter-generator without a cutout. The system charges the battery at speeds greater than 10mph. The current output follows a curve maxing at 21mph. The starting switch has a "Neutral" position which is used for "country driving and long trips." Operating instructions say switch from "Start" to "Neutral" after 30 minutes of allowing the battery to recharge from starting in order to avoid cooking the battery. Since the starter-generator operates as a motor below 10mph, the switch is left in "Start" position for "city driving, except in congested traffic, when switch should be at 'Neutral' to avoid undue discharge of battery." There are no instructions for what to do at night with the lights on.

Might be an '08 HC or '09 HD.

The lowest serial number for AA's in the registry is AA1705, the highest, AA 10026. That implies a little more than 8,000 AA's were made. The <span style="text-decoration: underline">Standard Catalog of American Cars</span> notes that 20,500 Maxwells were made in 1910, meaning AA's represented about 40% of production.

Howard--I know that variations of the "pie wagon" commercial body were used on Model T's thruout their run (until '27).

I believe Northern Ash was a common choice for wood on car bodies. As for a restoration plan, I would attack the running gear first. It is good that the engine turns easily. However, without opening it up, you have no idea of how good the bearing are, what the clearances are, the condition of the rings. You should check the compression. There could be a lot of old oil and crud in the pan that should be cleaned out. Also, if the coolant ports have been open, it is entirely possible a small animal has made a home in them at some time and they are blocked. Bearing babbit can get old and fall apart. The valves are likely stuck and need to be freed up and then cleaned and maybe ground. There was probably a reason the car was laid up, and part of the restoring process is finding it. My AB was on stands for 30 years because of a bad front wheel spindle. I thought fixing that would mean a drivable car. Then I started looking, to get to know the machine, and have since discovered that the 50 year-old restoration was getting a little ragged. Do you have the magneto? I see it is missing. That will need checking and possibly recharging. The oil sight glass is missing. The carburetor is wrong. All of this can happen concurrent with body work.

According to James Zordich's survey of Maxwells (published in the HCCA Gazette, v.38 n.6, Nov-Dec, 1976) the Q-3 was painted dark blue, as were the Q-1 and Q-2. The Registry lists several other Q models, some unrestored. You might contact those owners for more information or try the Maxwell-Briscoe Yahoo bulletin board.

I purchased a T for my first brass car, precisely for the reasons given: lots of parts, lower cost, good clubs. The only drawback is learning to drive in a whole new way, those pedals will confuse your old habits quickly. The second car is an '11 Maxwell AB. A great car, easy to drive, fairly easy to repair. Only problems, it's a two seater, you can't take friends and family out, and it isn't the most powerful car on the road. That was fixed with a '12 Maxwell Mascotte: a touring car. Touring is relative, tho. No freeways, the car is comfortable at 35-40 mph. The brakes are, well, 1912 brakes. Our latest is a '17 Series 9 Franklin. It isn't running yet, but should make a great touring car. The club is great, parts are available, the costs are not stratopheric like Cadillacs, Pierces, and Packards, there is a lot of help from other owners, and the air-cooled car has a lot of interesting engineering. It isn't brass (it's nickle), but there are earlier brass Franklins.

Scott A high tension magneto generates a high voltage spark which is used for ignition. The low tension magneto generates a low voltage AC current which is used to energize a separate high-tension spark coil, which in turn is used for ignition. Most magnetos (excluding the Ford T) by 1912 were high tension magnetos, often dual systems that included using a battery for current for starting the car. There should be a switch on your dash offering a choice between battery (, magneto (M) and off (O), or at least an off/on switch to ground the magneto so you can stop the engine when necessary. The battery start was sometimes necessary because hand-cranking would not generate enough spin to throw a good spark using the magneto alone. When you try to start it, remember to retard the spark. You don't want to break a wrist. Good luck

Scott There are more than a dozen Paiges (dated 1910-1916) listed in the Horseless Carriage Club of America's roster, including several in California. Also, there are local chapters in SoCal (www.hccsc.info), San Diego, Orange and La Jolla. There are dozens of resources available locally, including machinists, parts suppliers, upholstery, babbiting, etc.

Just for comparison, the unrestored, 1912 Franklin Model G, reputedly stored since 1917 only went for $20,900.

As a fresh Franklin owner, I too find this forum to be of great value.

You can try Westach (www.westach.com). They make airplane instrumentation including resistance floats which might work for you.

Many good radiator shops can and will do honeycomb work, but it isn't cheap. Before you say okay, check out their work. For parts, some just are not available, so finding a good machinist is a must. Local car groups of the HCCA or Olds should be able to help you too.

Hello--I have some material relevant to the Model 25 Maxwell's posted on my site, www.maxwell-messenger.info.

By coincidence, I just read an article in the Sept. 1961 "Antique Automobile" magazine about a barn find 1906 Haynes with just such a top. The article was by Walter P. Fuchs who restored the car.

I have posted on my Maxwell Messenger site PDF's of the J.D. Maxwell and Benjamin Briscoe articles which Phil provided. Also posted are photos of the differential and engine of his #245, which illustrate early characteristics.

Not to mention the anti-rust coating provided to all the iron underparts of the cars.

Willie--The following is information from the 1910 Model Book: Oiling--Force-feed, multi-delivery. Single sight feed located on dash in view of operator: automatically oils motor and clutch. Tank Capacity: oil, 2 quarts. From the 1911 Instruction Book: Mounted on the dash underneath the hood will be found an aluminum oil tank. This should be filled to the top of the filling plug with a good grade of cylinder oil... The oil from this tank is forced by a pump thru the single sight feed located on the dashboard.... All the oil used by the engine passes through this single sight feed oiler in a constant stream when the motor is running. Leaving the ... sight glass the oil is fed into the first compartment of the crank case ... the constant flow successively filling the base of each compartment in its course to ... the fourth compartment, where it is pumped back. By means of spoon-like splash blades the oil is picked up from the basin at the bottom of each compartment and vaporized, affording ample and effective lubrication of all necessary parts. If you're getting smoke, I assume it is from oil sucking up past the rings. They may be gummed up. Especially if the car hasn't run for a while. Perhaps some Marvin's Mystery Oil will free them???

Thanks for the tip, Howard.