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JohnD1956

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Posts posted by JohnD1956

  1. That car is obviously the Gransport model.

    I'd watch out for that 2.8. If it is the original engine, you will most likely be running into bad crankshaft bearings between 125K and up. Of course if it is over 150K chances are the engine was already replaced, and if that can be verified, then you may get lucky with the newer motor.

    There are a lot of nice looking cars around, but what good are they if you can't drive them anywhere?

    Take the advice given. Look for a 91 or newer( actually I'd recommend a 93 to 96 which is what I have) with the 3800. The 93 got the electronic shift transmission, and is a kick ass car. Super performance and exceptional gas milage. But these things are usually way under valued and if you can find one, you can usually get it for an unbelievable price. Our son got a 93 2 door GS Regal, with the 3800, and every option including the power sun roof and high powere factory radio, with 61K original miles, for 3K last summer. It is one beautiful car, and it goes like mad.

    Oh, by the way, that 2.8 requires you to tilt the motor off it's mounts just to put the spark plugs in on the firewall side. That alone is enough reason to by pass the car.

  2. Based upon personal experience, I had a 78 Electra that I would rate as the worst car EVER built. That does not mean I do not like 78 Electras, only that one car.

    In it's defense, I was an idiot to buy it. I saw all the signs saying to run away, but I went through with the deal anyway. I loved it's looks, but it was a mechanical nightmare.

    I also had an 84 electra Wagon. After the 78, I was scared to buy another Buick of this generation, but someone gave me an 85 Lesabre wagon, which he said he beat to death, and with a rebuilt tranny, the car was great. So when my sister was ready to give up her loaded 84 wagon, I took it off her hands. Ugh!!! What a bomb!!!

    Other than that, I have loved every single Buick I have ever owned. The 57 Special convertible, the 56 Roadmaster sedan, the 66 GranSport The 67 Sportwagon, The Somerset T Type, the Skyhawk, and the 69 Electra 4 door. I have only kept the 56 Super 56 R, the 69 Electra 2 Dr Limited, The 69 GS 400 Convertible and the 95 Supercharged Riviera. And my wife loves her 93 Regal Custom, while my oldest boy has loved his vast array of Buicks but maintains his 93 2 door Regal GranSport. My youngest son has no less passion for his 89 Lesabre T Type, although he is heartbroken that he wrecked his first one in a dumb accident.

    For those who had questioned Buicks marketing on the 95-99 Riviera, I wish to say; Buick didn't make any mistake. They built a fine automobile, which is quick, pretty and pure pleasure to drive. It's not their fault that new car buyers of that generation were so weak and didn't recogonize a remarkable car because it didn't have a bunch of numbers and letters all over it. And I, for one, am damn glad that not everyone has one of these babies sitting in their garage.

  3. I would say that you should definetly re polarize your voltage regulator. Since I think you said you hooked up all three wires at the generator to the bat terminal, I would not trust that the voltage regulator is properly polarized any longer.

    Once you re polarize, then following Dan's lead, move the white wire to the battery terminal. On my car, the wire on the battery terminal of the regulator is red. Put only the white wire there. Leave the green wire on the center terminal of the regulator and the pink wire on the last terminal.

    At the generator, leave the yellow wire and the pink wire disconnected, and hook the white wire to the lead off your new alternator.

    If Dan is right, then this should work. But I do have to say I'm not an electrical expert. And look over that pink wire that smoked on you to make sure the insulation is intact.

    Good luck

    John d

  4. This is an interesting problem. Looking at the wiring diagram offered, there are three terminals on the stock voltage regulator. One goes to the field terminal on the generator. The center one has two wires, one going to the Armature terminal on the generator, the other going to the solinoid relay. Chances are the one going to the armature on the generator is the big fat white one. The last terminal is the battery terminal.

    I think Dan indicated he used the fat white wire from the generator to connect to the Alternator. Then at the regulator, he moved the white wire to the battery terminal. No other wires, just the one white one. I'm no electrician but it would seem if you moved BOTH wires which were on the regulator's center terminal to the regulator's battery terminal, then you are sending power to the solenoid relay at all times. The solenoid relay is the link to the carburator starter switch. And this would be the "electrical" protector to prevent the starter from engaging if the engine is running. If you did move the solenoid's wire to the battery terminal on the regulator then you have powered the solenoid full time. It thinks the generator is putting out electricity, and won't let the starter switch work.

    The field wire can be disconnected at both the regulator and the generator, as this one would no longer be needed. But the solinoid's wire must go back to the center terminal on the regulator for the rest of the system to be intact. That third wire at the generator is most likely a ground wire. This can also be left disconnected. Since you lumped everything together, you were probably sending full battery power directly to ground along with the solenoid relay. That's probably why the pink wire started to smoke.

    As I said, I'm no electrician, so follow at your own risk. But look at that diagram closely. It is exactly like the one in my 56 shop manual. I'd check that wire that melted though before going much further. Hopefully it did not melt through any other wires such that it is now an open short circuit.

    Good luck.

  5. I also endorse the gas tank renu process. That stuff stayed on with no ill effect when it leaked. Plus, I had even had dents in my tank ( an embarassing story of lack of common sense) which they were able to press out so you cannot tell the tank was ever damaged. I had a choice of shiney silver, but my car is still undercoated from it's early days, so I went with the black undercoated look. Probably the best money I spent on the old girl.

    cool.gif

  6. Roberta, Has the Michigan clubs ever toured in the Woodward Ave dream cruise as a group?

    My friend has a 70 skylark, and his town was trying to boost support with a family picnic car/show last summer. It seems the local Corvette club showed up en-mass and then complained when he and the other two non Corvettes wanted to take part in the parade. Seems Corvette guys can only be bothered with other Corvettes. Anyway, I'd love to drive to Michigan for this cruise. But I would REALLY love to take part with a bunch of Buicks, and show those Corvette guys a thing or two. grin.gif

  7. My 56 tank did the same thing. 3/4 tank okay, full tank leaking slightly but enough that I couldn't park it in the garage. So I had the tank reconditioned at a local gas tank renu dealer. Beautiful job! Put it back in and filled it up, and it leaked again. Boy, was I ticked off.

    Dropped it a second time and they sloshed the gas around to search for the leak. They found that the two rivits that hold the sending unit together leaked. They debated soddering or expoy. They were concerned that heat from the sodder process would damage the reostat(sp?). So they epoxied and let it dry for a week, and all's well. I can fill it right to the rim of the cap and no problems.

  8. I would like to endorse a 95-99 Riviera. My 95 is a great car, but beware of the repair costs. I bought this car with 48K, 5 years ago, and have put around 1K into it every year since. Anti-lock brake computer, timing chain cover gasket, water pump, brakes, tires, rear shocks and this year the main processor. So you're wondering why I would endorse it? It is surely the sweetest ride I have ever owned. This car is like driving a dream. It just goes, and goes fast when pressed. It rides like glass but hugs corners like a sports car. It glides with minimal road noise and you can cruise with the moon roof open at 65 mph and talk to your friends in a normal voice volume. It gets compliments almost everywhere, but the insurance is not much more than the 93 Regal.

    Every time I drive this car, I feel like a million bucks, and that is priceless to me.

    Oh, by the way, It's supercharged, and I wouldn't want one without it, although if the tranny ever goes, I plan to put in the one from the unsupercharged model. 3.06 final drive ration vs the 2.97. The regal has the 3.06 and it screams off the line. Meanwhile it pulls 31 MPH on the highway. I'd like to feel that tranny with the supercharger.

  9. What a pictorial! Beautiful!

    I traveled in with the Minuteman chapter to the show, and I agree that it was a fablous feeling to be a member of this club and driving among such distinguished cars. Unfortunately, three of us got disassociated from the rest of the Caravan after crossing into Michigan, and we missed the chance to arrive with the rest of the caravan. Your parade onto the show field had to be the most special time. I too wish it was mid july 2003 once again!

    John D

  10. going back to the previous post, I just turned 52. I've had lots of Buicks, and still do, but ironically, I've only bought one brand new, a 93 Regal custom. What a car!!! 3800, and electronic 4 speed automatic with a 3.06 drive ratio. Even with 133K on the clock this car can still snap your neck, as my wife likes to point out.

    Anyways we've always had Buicks, holding onto our 56 Super for 29 years. Our Oldest boy is 28, He loves 69 Electra's, like the one my sister gave to him when he was 16. A nice big 4 door, which we painted and cleaned up ( not a real restoration, but just a VERY pretty driver) and he's still hooked on the 56 and the current 69's I have. He also loved his 88 Park Ave, his 85 Park Ave 2 dr, his 85 Lesabre Wagon, and lastly regrets having to trash his 87 Electra T-Type. But the 93 Regal Grans Sport has won him over. Our youngest son is stuck on his 89 Lesabre T-Type. This boy was a chevy guy, although he always liked and respected the 56 and 69. But then we went to test drive an 87 Lesabre T-Type and that was all she wrote. Now he is in an endless quest to find a low milage 88 or 89 Lesabre T-Type for posterity, and then he will drive his current one till it dies.

    Our middle boy is something of an enigma. He has great admiration for the 56 and the 69's, but will drive anything that gets him from point A to point B.

    Oh well, 2 out of three ain't bad!

    Meanwhile, the beautiful wife will not let me sell the 56, or either of the 69's, She insists I think twice about letting the 95 Riviera go( since I always wanted one of those) and would not let me buy her a local 96 2 DR Regal Grand Sport because she loves that 93 Regal too much. Go figure.

  11. Man oh Man! This is some thread. Sometimes I wonder what all the fuss is about? I drove my 56 Super around town for a few weeks this summer, and lots of young drivers and others made positive comments. The group that seemed to not care was the 30 somethings, who probably wished I would move the old load out of the way of their BMW's.

    I believe the real classic is in ones memory from High School days. That's most likely when you were last free from daily pressures and could really enjoy everything in life. For me that was 1965 to 1970. I certainly have a preference for the same year cars. But back then none of us thought any car of the day was destined to be a classic, and that includes the kids driving 442's, GS' Chevelles, AMx's and Mustangs. They all beat them to death, and today they could care less about them as well.

    I got my first 56 when I was 21 as a matter of opportunity, and then my current one when I was 24. Over the years I thought about selling it numerous times. Now 29 years later, I wouldn't part with the car for a million dollars even though it has not really matured in terms of price. So what's the future hold for us Buick Owners?

    I am sure that kids of today will always appreciate a real classic. There will be a market for our cars and interest in our favored Marquee. There will be people who want cars! Maybe todays cars will not be desired as classic material, but that will largley depend on what vehicles stand the test of time. No matter what car is developed, if the car does not run 20 years from now, people won't buy them. And, just like those of us who bought our cars for $75.00 29 years ago, kids of today will buy cars that stand the test of time when they can afford them, because that will be what's available.

    All this being said, I do hope Buick comes out with a hot desireable Convertible soon, although I probably won't be able to afford it. And I'm not kicking the GS convertible, or the 56 out of the garage for it either.

    JD1956

  12. In the "blown up" picture, not only are the exhaust manifolds blue, but so is the Carb. With the chrome valve covers and spark plug covers, it's obviuos that this blue is an artists rendition.

    However, here's a question related to the original. What color should the air cleaner be? I have seen black satin and the Buick green. Is there a right color for restorations to original manufacture?

    John D

    56 Super 56 R

    69 Electra Limited

    69 GS 400 conv.

    95 Riviera (Supercharged)

  13. What is missing in this thread is a mention of what appeals to the 20's car buyer. A name is a name. When a name changes it is awkward at first, but when it gets familiar, it becomes less objectionable. I don't think Buick has a problem attracting buyers because of the names of the models. I think it's because the model offering ( including Ranier and Rendevous) do not appeal to the group we think they are targeting.

    What Buick looks like a squished Honda with a giant coffee can exhaust tip? None! But thats' what kids are buying today. I, for one, am glad Buick is not producing such a car. But I think they need to revamp their staid 4 door image and get some "sport" back into the showrooms.

    I think a lot of their concept cars ( which were at the Centenial ) were leading in the right direction. I hope they pull this thing together, and build a line that can evoke the strong emotional attachment we all feel with our own cars.

    My 2 cents.. thanks

    John d

  14. Spray water down the carb while the engine is running? This just sounds irreverent. I have heard of dropping kerosene down the carb of a running engine, maybe 4 ounces or so, but not water. It was said this was an old mechanic's trick to clean the carbon out of the combustion chambers. I don't know if it is true, or if it works. I never tried it myself. Meanwhile, The owners manual on my 95 Riv says not to drive the car through standing water because the air intake is routed to a spot just infront of the tire, and splashing water can get sucked into, and wreck, the engine.

    As to the original thread, I agree with everyone else. Drive the car for a while before throwing away original parts. And if your going to alter the thing, go for the gold. Move up to a 401 or 425, with a turbo 400. Once you swap the engine, you might as well hot rod it.

  15. Have you checked for the existance of, and condition of ground straps to the engine? Maybe they are corroded, or broken completely? I owned an MG once, which had a similar eratic starting problem. One day while it wouldn't start I brushed against the carb linkage ( which was a simple metal shielded wire like on old lawnmowers) and got a burn. Then we realized that a previous owner had not put the woven ground straps back in when the engine had been worked on. As a matter of fact, he gave me that car because it wouldn't start. A pair of straps and 10 minutes later it was good as new.

  16. I received mine in Albany NY almost two weeks ago. I loved the articles. I just wish there had been more pictures of all the great cars. It was certainly a teriffic meet. Hats off to Buicktown people and Bick Motor Division for a great time.

    John D: 56 Super, 69 Electra, 95 Riviera, and a brand new 69 GS 400 Convertible.

  17. Yes Steve, you were the fellow who told me about the solid core wires, right? It turns out I had a much bigger problem. It looks like the key to my harmonic balancer carved a section out of the balancer, so that the balance was off key by about 1 1/2 inch. It also cracked the balancer sleeve. I had no idea that this was occurring, but on the way home from Flint, I had to have the water pump replaced because of a slight knock and extra play in the fan and pulley. After I got home, I was still hearing the knock and I was figuring the fuel pump, but later discovered the situation with the balancer.

    I have purchased a rebuilt balance from Damper Doc. He figured the rubber in my original hardened and made a solid unit where there is supposed to be some flex. He didn't think I wound up with internal engine damage as the balancer was so beaten up, and appeared to take the brunt of the pressure. But just in case, I'm putting in a new timing chain and gears.

    This has been some trip. 4 flats, water pump, also three bad wheel bearings, and now the balancer problem. Almost ready to give up. But we had a great time at the show.

    JD

  18. FB,

    Excellent Century Convertible. But can I ask about the wire wheels? Are they original KH 40 spoke's, or are these the remakes as sold by Wheel Vintiques in California? I'm wondering if the remakes are truly tubeless, or will I need to install tubes sooner or later? I bought a set this year and in an unfortunate series of adventures, the wheels leaked during my trip to Flint. I had tubes installed while on the road, but sent the wheels back recently to have them resealed. I'm ust wondering what everyones experience dictates? Reinstall the tubes or go tubeless? <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

  19. I just got this car. It has a 4 wheel drum system, with manual brakes ( no power brakes). tongue.gif

    I had to replace the main line from the distribution block to the rear flex hose. After installing the new line and bleeding the rear brakes, the parking brake light stays on all the time. The brakes are working very good, but that pesky light won't go off.

    After the line broke, and before replacement,the parking brake light worked with the parking brake on, and then when stomping the brakes hard to stop, it would flash, but it always went off when the brakes were released.

    There does not appear to be a reset button on the distribution block. However there is an electrical line attached under a rubber boot on the block. Might this be the reset button, and if so, should it just push in? Or is there some trick to resetting it?

    If not, does anyone know how to shut that light off without disconnecting it? confused.gif

  20. How about a parts car, which has a great frame, and motor. I had the entire suspension replaced 6 years ago, front and back, plus the car has factory Duals, and disc brakes. I even have a set of the disc brake road wheels.

    The body is in okay condition, straight except for a slight dent in the front fender. And it needs a drivers door which I already have waiting for installation ( which came from Arizona. But it needs a paint job and a good interior. The ONLY reason I even consider selling this car is because just bought a skylark convertible, and now something needs to go.

    If interested please contact me off line at jld1972@empireone.net . I think you'd find the price is right and your car and mine would make one nice car.

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