Ken/Alabama
-
Posts
425 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by Ken/Alabama
-
-
Sounds like this car has probably been sitting for a while. If so, tires are going to be a big issue. If a tire comes apart it's likely to do major damage to a fender and who knows what else. Since your going long distance I would either try to get a trailer or hire a transport to move the car for me. There's a lot of unknowns here.
-
What year Zephyr?
-
My first thoughts would be are the tires good? Has the car been sitting for ages or does it run?Check the oil in the differential. Might also check rear wheel bearings to make sure they have grease. The other concern is the small roller bearing located in the rear of the transmission input shaft. When your towing the driveline will be turning but the transmission input will not. That bearing will be getting a workout and since the cluster gear will not be turning there will be no oil being thrown up to lube this bearing. I've seen guys tow for long distance before using a dolly and they would pull over and start the engine to spin the transmission for a few minutes. If the car has no engine make sure the transmission has oil in it , put the transmission in high gear and tow it all day. If it has an engine but doesn't run it might be risky to do any long distance towing.
-
1
-
-
I don't understand why they would tell you that it would need to be welded to prevent blowing a head gasket. If it's cracked from the valve seat to the cylinder , none of that is under the gasket. Even if it was , I still don't see a problem. Every flathead V8 I've built always have cracks between a head stud and water hole. Never , ever had an issue. The crack being in the valve seat I would want it stitched though to prevent further cracking. That method works very well.
-
It goes all the way down . On the end where it's under the stainless trim , I peeled back the welt and cut the core so it wouldn't create a hump under the trim. Also , the welt gets painted body color.
-
Don Eash in South Carolina recast mine. Very satisfied .
-
I usually leave the mounts bolted to the frame and remove the bolts from the mount to the block. Yes they can be a pain but they will come out .
-
This is the piece that goes on first.
-
The oblong sheetmetal piece fits over the shift tower first. Then it has a foam rubber seal that sits on top of it . For the seal I used a readily available 78-7012130 seal that fits 37-39 Fords. Then the transmission cover goes over that. There is no boot involved.
-
Examine your sockets really good. The socket well has a spring inside that keeps the contacts against the bulb . Make sure that it's moves . Should be able to check by pulling on the wires. Make sure the three pins aren't froze up either.
-
59 minutes ago, jord said:
Thanks Ken and Mack,I now have the picture and the light makes sense up top and the holes line up. My old switch was to large and installed in a weird way. Will find a new smaller switch . Not sure how to answer without adding a new reply ,prefer your way Ken
Thanks again
I took the photos of my friends 39 Zephyr sedan and it's not been tampered with so I'm sure this is how it came from the factory.
-
On November 6, 2018 at 3:43 PM, jord said:
Can anyone send me pics of the trunk area of a 1939 sedan? I am trying to locate the position of the light and switch.
Thanks
The light socket is mounted on the right upper corner of the trunk via two screws that's screwed into the X brace behind the carboard trunk liner. The switch is mounted on the left side spare tire stop. You'll see two screw holes there that matches up with the holes in the switch.
-
Check with some of the Early Ford suppliers such as Macs . They sell the fittings and the driver to install those fittings.
-
Are you sure your looking at splines or could it be your seeing the rollers in the caged roller bearing ?
-
Should be a grease fitting to grease the roller bearing in the upper end of the torque tube.
-
3 hours ago, jord said:
Ken, did yours come with the carb ball fitting or can I buy the end online somewhere. The spring loaded ball connector at the end of the cable
No they did not. What I did was cut the ball connector off of a rod then drilled a hole in the end to fit the wire cable in and crimped it on .
-
1
-
-
I've got two 39 Zephyrs here and both have cables for the choke and throttle.
-
Got mine from Allan Wheilihan , fit and functions perfect. Look for him under sources menu on this site.
-
16 hours ago, larry butcher said:
Could it possibly be the float body itself is dragging on the side of the opening in the pan tray. This is the insert that snaps into the pan edge.
Once the oil slushes around and gets hot , the float body breaks free and acts normal. I know you want to check everything before dropping
that pan to inspect that float!
What's puzzling is when you drive it then park, the float is normal. Go back an check it the next day and it reads zero.
-
My 39 Zephyr oil float reads zero when cold and it has oil in it. After I drive it and the engine is hot it reads correctly. Next day when it's cold it's reading zero again. It's not binding, I've checked for that. Got me puzzled.
-
46-48 Ford passenger rear fender brace. Looks like left side.
-
On my 39 Coupe
-
3
-
-
I'm headed down there today. Will be there for a week, would like to visit again.
-
Hi Jord, What year car? On my 39 coupe , I bought some felt material and glued it to the inside of the metal guides .it worked great on mine. I've got enough left over . I can send you some.
Ken
1942 305 cu in Zephyr
in Lincoln & Zephyr
Posted
My 292 is bored .060 over 2 7/8". That's only .0025 from 2 15/16". I have no heating issues.