Ken/Alabama
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Posts posted by Ken/Alabama
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16 hours ago, abelincoln said:
Thanks guys, here is the plan. I contacted H&H flatheads who can have Ross make some pistons for the Lincoln V-12, but they are quite costly. A second e-mail from H&H noted that the Hogan NZ heads do not have polished chambers, so I should feel free to grind in the offending area. This sounds good to me. Closer inspection finds a few casting flashings in the the chambers, so I plan to de-burr and polish with increasingly fine sand paper. Mean time, we'll pull the pan. I've got a Moroso dip stick that needs a welded bung, in the lower pan and I suspect the rear main oil drain pipe is loose, leading to low oil pressure. With any luck, will be running again by end of summer.
Abe
So how does the rear main drain pipe affect oil pressure?? My 1940 V8 doesn’t even have one
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Why would you want 12 volts ?🤷♂️
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The only plug that needs to be removed is the one holding the lock cylinder . Replacement plugs are available or some folks thread the hole and install a set screw.
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15 hours ago, Antykas said:
Thanks, what year(s) flathead has the same bolt pattern as the 47 Lincoln transmission & will my input shaft of the transmission fit the flathead. The front mounts are the least of my worry, just looking to make it as painless as I can if I find the right engine. I can always re-drill the crank on the Olds engine I have. Looking at options. It had a 59 Olds, I have a 63 olds.
32-48 is a direct bolt up , input shafts are the same. The later 49-53 flathead will work also if you use the truck or Mercury bell housing and clutch disc.
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Two different tanks
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Even though the glove box pulls and the ash tray pulls look a like the mounting holes are spaced different. The wiper bezel is threaded with a nut on the underside. You’ll need to remove it to get it all back together. The shaft has a spring on it so when you removed the knob the shaft fell through. To remove the door handles simply push in on the door panel at the old escutcheon and it will expose the base of the handle , rotate the handle and you’ll see a pin, drive the pin out with a drift or similar tool and the handle will slide off the square shaft.
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On 3/25/2020 at 11:13 PM, 40ZephSedan said:
Does anyone know of a source for the rubber only on the center crossmember exhaust hanger brackets (#5292-A)? Two new rubber/metal assemblies are fairly expensive; I have the metal if I can just buy the 2 rubber isolators separately.
Thx,
I’ve had NOS ones and they will separate, probably because they are now 80 years old. I put NOS ones on my 39 and they lasted no time before they came apart. I clamped them back together and welded a piece of steel to tie the pieces together. I know it kinda defeats the purpose of the rubber but at least they still holding up. The originals were vulcanized and I know of no one that can redo them. Same with the muffler bracket. Had a nos one and it let go first.
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10 hours ago, Mssr. Bwatoe said:
anyone change one?? some kind of a threaded rod or such....
Skips bearing comes with instructions. I havent done one personally but I’ve seen the instructions. . Not too difficult if you have the torque tube out.
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The center driveshaft bearing for the Lincoln is same as Ford 78-4658. Skip Haney (the coil guy) makes a replacement for that .
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Glad you found it! I see the V12 cover does have the cast in knob. It’s a miracle that the cover didn’t get broken when they pulled the bolts up.
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Done a little investigating. I have an empty V8 block on the engine stand. I placed the idler gear and cover on and the gear should be running in the center. On the V8 , pre 49 blocks, the idler gear will not go on the cover wrong because the cover has a hump cast into it to prevent that. I thought I had a V12 cover laying around but couldn’t find it. Can’t remember if the V12 cover has that cast in hump or not . Maybe someone here has one to look at. The covers are different between the V12 & V8 except for the 36-37 V12. The V12 cover will have a part number with an 86H prefix.
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On 3/24/2020 at 2:52 PM, zephyrdave said:
Before I take the engine out, I took the pump off and looked up the hole. I noticed that the idler gear did not seem to be in the right place, it looks like it is off to one side of the hole towards the rear of the engine. I turned the engine over by hand and the idler gear did not move. Went to the internet of course to research. Found a V8 ford forum where someone had a new rebuild and no oil pressure. They took the engine out and found that the idler gear was installed upside down so no gear engagement. I'm sure that's what's going on here. If you can see in the pic the gear is off to one side. I think ford V8 and lincoln V12 have a similar setup. The idler gear has a "snout" on one side. If it is installed upside down, it puts the gear out of alignment with the other gears.
That looks like it could be your problem. Can you turn the gear with a long screwdriver? That would tell you if it’s engaged with the cam.
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Need to know year of Lincoln. If you’re talking Lincoln Zephyr or Continental they use the same solenoid as Ford for those years. Assuming you’re staying with 6 volt system.
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Be very careful. The last thing you want to do is to break the pin that the pointer attaches to. They are very fragile. I’ve had good luck warming the housing where the cable attaches to free up frozen speedometer heads.
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Body color.
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There will be enough oil slinging up on the cam and lifter to lubricate them. The V8 has no oil galley for the lifters. I’m running adjustable lifters in my V12 also . Plugged off the rear hole and drilled a 1/16” hole in the front down to the cam bearing, that allows oil to flow onto the timing gear. Not really necessary, the 49-53 V8 has no provision in the front for the timing gear, just depends on splash and slinging it up there.
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Yes, They are the same.
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This is the only KR Wilson tool for removing and replacing the valve train in the V12 . The valve bar for the V8 doesn’t work very well because if the weird angles on the V12. I have one and have used it many times.
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Dwell should be at 36 degrees each side and the. Distributor must be synchronized. I have the proper machine to set the distributor up if you need.
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Each set of points fires 6 cylinders but there are three plug wires on each side that cross over. I would try changing condensers first or at least swap sides with them to see if the problem changes. Could be cracked rotor or a bad resister .There is two of them ,one for each side of the coil located under the dash on the firewall. Also check for loose or dirty connections including the cap where the plug wires plug in.
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Those grommets fit the original regulators.
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I’m betting on a bad U Joint. Every Lincoln joint I’ve removed was worn and had slack in it. I put a NOS Ford UJoint in my Zephyr.
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First make sure tacking strips in the body are in good condition or better yet replace them. New ones are available in plastic. I would also re wire the dome light and switch and make sure it’s in good working order. There is also a wire that goes to the trunk light that runs along the right side from the dome light switch location to the trunk light. You don’t want any bad wiring behind your new headliner. Clean and repaint all the headliner bows and keep track of where they come from. If your car still has the old original insulation in the roof that’s held in with the wooden slats, I would strongly recommend removing all the old stuff and use some of the new products available like Dyna- Mat or Fat-Mat with the peel and stick application. The wind lace goes in first around the door openings then the headliner on top of that. Place the bows in the headliner sleeves and slide the headliner towards the middle to expose the ends of the bows then starting with the rear bow attach bows to the body with the screws. Once they are in place start working the headliner towards the ends of the bows side to side to remove wrinkles . The forward most bow is held in with some tabs that bend over it. Then go to the rear blelow the window and pull it down taught and tack it . Keep working back to front , side to side. Do not trim anything until it’s all tacked in place. To hide the edge of the headliner around the door opening there is a hydem strip, it opens up in the middle where the tacks or staples go then it folds shut to hide them and gives it a finished look.
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You will not find that cap in reproduction. It’s made of heavy cast iron and has a 99A prefix on the part number unlike the thin stamped steel Ford version.
V12 Cylinder Wall Thickness
in V12 Lincolns Only
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My V12 is the later version , 46-48 and it’s bored to 2 15/16” + .020 . No heating problems at all, runs well.