Ken/Alabama
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Posts posted by Ken/Alabama
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Sounds like something not correct with the transmission. Fluid level, slipping , bad torque converter .
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Delta Cams in Washington State
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Curious as to what rear axle your using. ?
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My 39 Zephyr Coupe. Seven year project.
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Sounds like a good idea Tom. When you drain it the first time if you see signs of water I would do it a second time to make sure there's no trace of water or antifreeze still floating around in your engine. Got my Zephyr up and running again. Put about 75 miles on it the past two days and it's smooth as silk & still good oil pressure. Third time is charm ! I'm hoping.
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Look like 46-48 Contenintal.
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Chuck, The accelerator pedal for the Zephyr has an arm that fits through a slotted hole in the floorboard and hangs beneath the floor. The arm has a ball on it to accept a linkage that goes up to the bell crank on the firewall. The floor has a clinch nut or a cage but will work also , and accepts a 5/16 bolt that secures it to the floor. Here's a photo of the underside of my floor before I installed the pedal. You can see the clinch nut and beside it an elongated hole. In the other photo of my friends car with the engine out you can see the bell crank on the firewall just above the transmission.
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Don't forget to check the rubber frame isolators. The crossmember that the front and rear springs are mounted to are dependent on them to hold the suspension securely to the frame.
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It's been seven long years but I finally got it finished. Have logged 150 miles on it this past week. Met some friends today for lunch with two other 39 Zephyrs.
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If Your machinist mic'd it he should know if everything is within tolerance . If not regrind it to the next undersized. Usually leaks at the rear main are caused from a worn rear main journal. I always have my crank grinder to leave that rear journal on the full side of the specs. Never a leak.
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Tom it sounds like you ordered hoses from the same vendor that I did. I did actually recieve them along with the wiring harness after 2 months and several calls. The harness was fine but the hoses looked like they were cut from a random hose with an axe plus they had no script. Almost $100 worth of worthless hoses. I called them and they told me no one made the correct hoses for these V12 s but I knew better. I called Chris Herrel and his were perfect.
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Very nice job Vern !
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What year is your coupe? Here's some pictures of mine.
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I just went through this for my 39 Coupe with Lebaron Bonney. The are dimensionally the same. The seat covers and the material that covers the seat carriage varies from 37-39. I sent them some patterns as they had nothing for the 39 but did have the kit for the 37 . They sent me headliner and side panels for the 37 and it fit my 39 really nice.
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He did the ones for my 39 Zephyr a few years back. He told me then he was about to retire. Don't know if anyone picked up the business or not.
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I used a lower door seal from a 48 up ford pickup. Here's the part number in Macs catalog 48-20286-1
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Hi Keith, Just wondering if you've made any progress on the instrument and clock plastic for the 39 Zephyr?
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I feel your pain Tom, my 39 was no different. And my grill is NOS.
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You can get the valve up and knock it sideways to break it then drive the guide down with a punch. Penetrating oil is your friend.
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Remove the four bolts holding the front bearing retainer and slide it from the input shaft. The seal is in the rear of the retainer.
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On January 9, 2017 at 6:44 PM, 19tom40 said:
Ken, is this the Ford part you are talking about
Yes. That's the one
Looks good to me John. The torque tube will take up that space.
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On January 20, 2017 at 11:41 AM, John_Mc said:
Hi folks, anyone have a picture of what the correct oil filter looks like for my 1937 Zephyr?? My car did not have one, but with a rebuilt engine, I most definitely am going to install one and if I'm going to do it, why not get the correct one??? Thanks in advance.
Hi John, You looking for a picture of the filter itself or the filter
3 hours ago, John_Mc said:Thanks once again Ken, I need the whole enchilada, although it looks like now I need a whole engine or just sell the car. My engine man said it needs everything, maybe even the block. :-(
your block cracked??
housing ?
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On January 20, 2017 at 11:41 AM, John_Mc said:
Hi folks, anyone have a picture of what the correct oil filter looks like for my 1937 Zephyr?? My car did not have one, but with a rebuilt engine, I most definitely am going to install one and if I'm going to do it, why not get the correct one??? Thanks in advance.
Hi John, You looking for a picture of the filter itself or the filter
housing ?
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On January 20, 2017 at 11:41 AM, John_Mc said:
Hi folks, anyone have a picture of what the correct oil filter looks like for my 1937 Zephyr?? My car did not have one, but with a rebuilt engine, I most definitely am going to install one and if I'm going to do it, why not get the correct one??? Thanks in advance.
Hi John, You looking for a picture of the filter itself or the filter
housing ?
Starting problem when 41 Continental warm
in V12 Lincolns Only
Posted
What's the condition of your starter?? If the commutator & brushes are dirty or burned it's going to cause a high resistance esp when hot. Also replace the starter solenoid. Make sure grounds are good and all connections are clean and tight.