Sgt Art

" I have a problem about the hydraulic valve lifters because it stocks-up" I'm not sure what you mean by this. I will say that anytime an engine is allowed to sit for that length of time without being run, you can expect lots of problems. At the very least you should change the oil and replace with regular oil and one quart of transmission fluid or Mystery oil. Run the engine 20 minutes or so at high idle and then drain. This may help degunk and clean/free things up. Before cranking, I would remove the spark plugs and squirt a little Mystery Oil in the cylinders in case the rings or cylinders have rusted. Then spin the engine with the starter motor LEAVE THE PLUGS OUT while doing this. After spinning over, you'll see oil spurting out of the spark plug holes, and you're certain there's no liquid (oil of coolant) in the cylinders, then go ahead replace the plugs and crank her up. Chances are there's also congealed gasoline in the carb bowl, so it might like a good cleaning along with a new gas filter. In fact, if there's any old gas in the tank, drain it. Five year old gas is not good.

Sounds like it wasn't properly installed, it should last a little while. I was able to replace the rear main seal on a 455 Olds engine with a 460 Ford seal. This is the neoprene (sp?) two piece type that is more commonly used. Worked great. I don't know if there is a similiar one that will work with your 371, though.

Year CID hp/rpm tor/rpm carb 1965 401 325/4400 445/2800 4 V 1965 425 460/4400 465/2800 2x4 V 1966 401 325/4400 445/2800 4 V 1967 340 260/4200 365/2800 4 V 1967 400 340/5000 440/3200 4 V 1968 350 280/4600 375/2800 4 V 1968 400 340/5000 440/3200 4 V 1969 350 280/4600 375/2800 4 V 1969 400 340/5000 440/3200 4 V 1969 400 stage 1 350/5000 440/3200 4 V 1970 350 285/4600 375/2800 2x4 V 1970 455 350/4600 510/2600 4 V 1970 455 stage 1 360/5000 510/2600 4 V 1971 350 260/4600 360/3200 4 V 1971 455 315/4600 450/2600 4 V 1971 455 stage 1 345/5000 460/3000 4 V 1972 455 260/4400 380/2800 4 V 1972 455 stage 1 270/4400 390/3000 4 V Compression ratio was probably no more than 10.25:1 on the higher performance version.

Scotty, Need to check that vin. There should be some letters also. Here's something I found: All 1971 442's VINs started with 344 Read through this, it has more VIN info: http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/of442.htm#442%201971

Glen, what's the advantage of running ported vacuum advance (if any) over just running manifold vac adv all the time? It's an area that's confused me. As I understand it, vac adv is primarily a fuel economy issue.

I think the various car magazines foster this stuff in an effort to sell their advertisers' products. The first time a rode in a lowered small pick up truck, I swear every expansion groove in the road was stabbing me in the a$$. In some places, the cops will give you a hard time too. I believe if much of the aftermarket add on stuff was all that good, the makers would use it. I know car makers care mostly about the bottom line, but like Ackman said, the original stuff lasted 30 years and by then you'll have moved on to other things.

The polygraphite bushings create a firmer ride or so I'm told, I've never used them. Firmer might actually be harsher. Good for handling like a sports car but maybe not what you want for a cruiser. My own experiences have been stay stock with stuff like that. I'm not a big of fan of lowering and customizing old cars like yours. I think they look best as they left the factory. Upgrades such as HEI or at least a Pertronix ignition are generally a good idea. An Edelbrock manifold and carb are good too if your not wanting to stay 100 % stock. Other areas are often a disappointment though. I work for a car dealership and usually once you get away from OEM, your actually lose value even if the stuff you put in the car is better quality or an improvment, that goes for sound equipment too! Go figure. Just my two pennies.

"I have a 305 chevy engine. I have confirmed it. 307 distributor was on the radiator side, and my car's distributor is on the firewall side towards the windshield. It is definitely a 305, and the engine number checks out." The 307ci Olds engine has it's distributor in the rear also (all Olds engines do) just like a 305 or any other Chevy engine. You can't go by that alone. The Chevy engine's distributor goes through the intake manifold, the Olds distributor goes into the block behind the intake manifold. Both, however, are by the firewall, neither is mounted in the front of the engine. In GM cars only Buick and Cadillac engines do that. The quickest way for you to know for sure is check which side the starter motor is on. The battery is probably on that side too. Chevy on the passenger side, Olds on the driver side. Now assuming we're talking Chevy engines here (and it doesn't matter if they are Chevy or Olds) why in the world would you want to put heads from a small CID engine on one that is larger. Both 305 Chev and 307 Olds heads have awful performance when compared to earlier 350 (either maker) heads? To answer your question, yes, you can bolt up the heads and swap other parts. The accessories, p/s pump, water pump, a/c compressor, alternator should all mount up in either case. In 86 or 87, Chevy changed the angle of the cylinder heads and intake manifold mating surfaces, so an older intake will not mate up properly with the newer head design. My advise, is get 350 heads for a 350 engine. The small cid engine heads may not flow worth a hoot. The Chevy engine and Olds (Buick, Olds, Pontiac aka BOP) use a different bolt pattern mounting for the transmission. Therefore, you can't just drop a 350 Olds in where a 305 Chevy engine was and bolt up to the tranny. Again, if you have a Chevy engine in there, replace it with a Chevy, if it's an Olds, put an Olds in there. Chevy was selling newly made 1985 and back 350 four bolt main truck engines in the crate for $1250.00 (USD) awhile back. I bought one for my truck, and one for an 87 TransAm (it had a 305 Chev in it). They're long blocks so basically you just take the accessories off your old engine and mount them on the new engine and drop it in. It was a very easy job. You can't hardly build an engine for less than that.

I pretty sure all standard production Olds engines were two bolt mains. It's said Chevy went to four bolt on some of their engines because the castings are mush. Olds castings are supposed to have greater nickel content and stronger. It is possible to swap 307 olds heads, intake manifold and other parts (not pistons) with a 350...but why would you want to? Performance will suck. Also, you may have a 305 Chevy engine in your car. If you do, the two engines would have nothing in common. See the thread about engine I.D. and find out which engine you have. If the engine in your car is in fact a 305 Chevy, an easier swap might be a 350 Chevy rather than the Olds. For one thing the starter on a Chevy is on the passenger side, Olds is on the driver side. That's not a big thing to over come, but your accessories may well be. Think about it.

Filler tubes are easily changed and really shouldn't be what you use to date and I.D. the engine block. In fact, a big block filler tube could be used in a small block and vice versa - don't use it exclusivly to I.D. a block. Use the number as described on the block. Heads are pretty easy to swap as well. Possibly someone put a later head on the block due to it having hardened valve inserts. Don't worry about the filler tube matching the engine. They're all the same and are force fit into the block. They can be removed and replaced pretty easy. Usually, just wrapping a rag and twist-pulling with large channel locks will remove them. Tap them in with a rubber mallet. The 5 heads are 68-69, 350 CID 64cc. Here's the best engine info site I've found yet: http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/oldsfaq.htm

The block would appear to be 68 - 70 350 CID the heads look like they are 1971, 350 with 64cc. Here's how to identify small blocks: 1968-later V-8 Engine Have the last six digits of the VIN number, the year of the block, and the assembly plant stamped on the driver's side of the block below the cylinder head. A 2-letter code on the oil filler tube identified the engine. You can use the VIN derivative number to ID the year. For 1968 and up blocks, this number is located on a pad just below the cylinder head on the front left side of the engine. This number will be stamped on a machined pad on the front driver's side of the block, just below the deck surface. Typically it will be covered with a power steering bracket or something, below the number one spark plug location. This number should take the form of "35Mxxxxxx" where: 3 = Oldsmobile division. 5 = year of manufacture (8=68, 9=69, 0=70, ..., 4=74, 5=75, 6=76, etc.). M = location of manufacture (M = Lansing, B=Baltimore, X = Kansas City, Z = Fremont, CA, etc). xxxxxx = last six digits of VIN of car that motor originally came in (original car's sequential production number). The letter indicating factory must match the letter in the sixth position of the car's VIN (it should also, of course, match the factory indication on the body data plate - in other words, for a Lansing-built car, the sixth place in the VIN would be an "M", the body data plate should indicate "LAN", and the third place in the engine ID should also be an "M"). The oil filler tube is stamped with a number that indicates the year and engine unit number. So, 2724927 would break down as follows: 2 = 1972. 724927 = engine unit number.

I found replacing all the bearings in the rear axel and differential made a vibration problem like you have go away for me. Perhaps it was overkill, but the mechanic showed me two of the axel bearings and they had been noisy and had signs of impending failure. I told him while he was in there, do them all. All vibration and noise was gone. About two months later, a young gal blew off a stop sign and the car was a total loss.

I think the only thing you'll need to do is get any 350/403 cast iron intake manifold for the conversion. I don't think there were any EGR provisions in 71, on that engine, so see if you can find an early one, it will make it easier for you. I'm not real sure about the timing, I guess you can experiment a bit there. Early 70's is a bit of pain due to most engines were still running leaded gas. Eventually, you may need to have the heads gone over mainly to have hardened inserts put in the valve seats. I think 70 or 71 was the year compression ratios dropped down to the 8.5:1 range on most engines they also retarded valve and ignition timing somewhat too. Your car should run fine on 87 octane gas and if you want to bump the timing a bit, go to 89.

Years ago I had trouble with a posi-traction rear end in my 69 Corvette. A mechanic recommended a gear lubricant for Posi rears that worked great. The company was called Frankland. I don't know if they're still around, but the product really quieted down all that popping and snapping.

If memory serves, two wires connect to the positive side. One is a full 12 volts when cranking the other is less as there should be either a special resistor wire or ballast resistor in that circuit. If your hitting the points with a full 12 + volts (could go as high as 14.5) they will burn out PDQ. The whole reason for going to electronic ignitions was for that very reason. They needed higher voltage but points couldn't handle it. You may want to get a volt meter (digital is best) and measure the voltage on each wire. Do this with the engine being cranked and with the key in the "ON" positon. One sugguestion would be to go to an electronic system eliminating points all together. Pertonix makes a replacement (drop in) unit that does that. It's very easy to install, bolts right in where the points and condensor were using a Hall effect magnetic pick up. The Pertronix II (and the other one) both use 12 volts, no need for resistor wire. The Pertronix II and appropriate coil, will give you higher voltage at the plug similiar to HEI. Use the existing distributor. No more points, one less thing to mess with. I just did this with a 72 Lincoln Mark IV, works great. The Pertronix unit and Blaster coil (you need both) cost about a $125 from Jeg's. If you don't want to do that, get an Olds HEI type distributor and drop it in. It's an easy swap. Either way, you'll be happier with the performance. Good luck.

Might be too low idle speed. I just took my truck over to Advance Auto and had them check the charging system for me. They provide this service free of charge; I've bought some batteries from them, but it's not necessary to do so. They can check the charging rate, diodes and battery voltage both at rest and with the engine working. Saves a lot of time fooling around with that stuff.

I used the Edelbrock AFB square bore carb (650cfm) on my 455 Olds with and adapter plate as the Edelbrock Performer is set up for a spread bore and was real happy with it. I was getting about 15 MPG with a TH350 trans and 2.73 rear. Performance was great. I liked it so much, that I stripped it and the manifold off the engine when the car was wrecked.

I don't think the HP will drop all that much if everything else remains the same. As someone else has already noted, replacement head gaskets these days are generally thicker than the older stock ones. Therefore, you will lose a little bit more compression than .35:1 by going to 9.9 from 10.25:1 pistons. However, in looking at the factory specs of 1968 Pontiac 350 engines: The same engine going from 10.5:1 to 9.2:1 loses 55 HP or 42.31 hp per 1 point drop. You're only dropping .35 of a point which if my math holds up would be about 15 HP. I'm not certain if my thinking is correct, but it seems reasonable. The big drops in HP came when all makers dropped from 10.x:1 to 8.5:1. That was 1.5 to 2 full points of compression ratio loss coupled with retarded valve timing, really killed the hi po engines of the 60's. 1968 Pontiac Engine 350 and 350 H.O. V-8 Engines. The thrifty 350-cubic-inch, 2-BBL, regular-fuel engine is standard on Firebird 350 and optional at extra cost on Tempest, Tempest Custom, Le Mans and Tempest Safari. It has compression ration of 9.2:1 and rated brake horsepower of 265 at 4500 rpm. Engine torque is 355 pound-feet at 2800 rpm. The more powerful 350-cubic-inch "high-output" engine utilizes a 4-BBL Quadra-jet carburetor and premium fuel. This engine, standard on Firebird H.O., is available at extra cost on Tempest, Tempest Custom (except Station Wagon) and Le Mans. Having a compression ratio of 10.5:1, the engine's rated brake horsepower is 320 at 5100 rpm and the torque is 380 pound-feet at 3200 rpm. (See pages M-1, M-2 and M-3 for features and specifications, and "Power Train" sub-section for power team combinations.)

Maybe you were running a little on the lean side, that would cause your engine to run hotter. The CFM isn't so much the culprit as are the jets. 600 CFM should be adquate for a 350 cid engine - I ran a 650 CFM on a 455cid and it worked fine. However, if the carb is not jetted properly for your application, then your engine could get a fuel mixture that is too rich or lean. Too rich is easy to spot, nasty smelling exhaust, sooty spark plugs and bogging down depending on how bad it is. Too lean, is like when a cutting torch has the oxygen added, it makes a very hot flame.

Jetaway model and code numbers are stamped on the servo cover located at the right hand side of the tranmission. Some 1965 Jetaways have a green metal plate attached to the right side of the transmission. These numbers and letters appear as "YY" "XX" NNN", where YY is the last two digits of the model year, XX is the ID (found below), and NNN is the day the transmission was built. Olds Jetaway ID's: ID Year(s) Application LJ '65-'?? V-6 F-85 (33300, 33500 series) MJ '65-'?? LC 330 F-85 (33400, 33600 series), Cutlass F-85 Station Wagon (33800 series) MK '65-'?? HC 330 Cutlass F-85 (33800 series), F-85 w/L-74 MT '65-'?? LC, HC 330 Jetstar 88 (35200 series) MU '65-'?? HC 330 Jetstar 88 (35200 series) (L-74, L-76)

When you say rebuild kit, what parts are you wanting to replace? Obviously gaskets or a gasket kit would be necessary. Are you going to bore the cylinders? Then you need a set of piston's and rings. If you're doing the lower part of the engine, oil pump, rod and main bearings. If you're going to replace the cam and lifters, then you should be looking at replacing the cam bearings too. I think you should make a list of what parts you want. There are good parts vendors on the the internet, just run a search, but I prefer to deal with local vendors. It may cost a bit more, but I can still remember getting a set of 350 Chev rings for an old 283 I was building and then having to send them back to the mail order firm I bought them from. However, you may want to check some of the Hot Rod mags, a couple of big reasonable priced vendors advertise in them.

It's been a long time since I did shocks on a car that far back, but as I recall they were not too hard. I think the worse thing is you'll be fighting a lot of crude and rust from the years they've been on. Give them a shot of PB Blaster or other penetrating fluid (on the nuts you want to remove) for the week preceeding "D" Day. It will make a difference.

You may also be experiencing a lean surge. When you go to WOT, it dumps a bunch of gas into the intake temporarily eliminating that. Try making the fuel mixture a bit richer by simply adjusting the butterfly choke a little bit. Check your plugs before and after. They should be light tan if the fuel mix is correct. Also, I prefer full manifold vacuum for the the vacuum advance as opposed to ported vacuum. See if that helps any.

Most of the time the "check engine" light is a pollution control related problem. Generally, they are not serious in nature, just annoying. It can be anything from a sensor gone bad to a poor ground. But, you probably should have a shop run a diagnostic if you want the problem solved.

Are the pistons flat tops or dished? If dished, they are low compression, probably somewhere in the 8.5:1 ratio. If they're flat tops you may indeed have a high comp engine. However, the Ga heads were for 1972 W30 engines ( Ga '72 455 80 409100 W-30's, manual 442's used big valves see Olds FAQ site) and all comp ratios were down to 8.5:1 by then. No question that HP is made in the cylinder heads, but I guess it all depends on what you want to do. The O/D auto will improve your gas mileage and the 700R have a low 1st gear. However, the cost is about double a good TH350 or even Th400 - which one do you have now? It's your decision, but like I said before, I didn't see all that much improvement with the C castings. I have to wonder what porting would really do for you. I think most of those tricks are worthwhile for racing where a tenth of a second makes a difference. But, for everyday driving, you'll be happier with a smooth idle, good acceleration (better than probably 90 % of what's on the road these days) and decent MPG. Have fun.