Sgt Art

I bought one for my Lincoln Mark VIII. It's not bad for the money, it has pretty good graphics and instructions. It's better than most of the Chilton and Haynes manuals I've seen. I got mine on Ebay as well.

Sight unseen I have no way to tell. The car is worth what you are willing to pay for it. If it's what you want and you can afford it, buy it. Offer the seller a little less, don't insult him, just tell him that's all you can afford. One neat trick I saw once, was the buyer pulls out a cashier's check for x amount of money stating this was all he felt like he wanted to pay and was ready to do business then and there. The seller felt it was a bit too low, so the buyer whips out a couple hundred more stating "that's all I've got, you cleaned me out!" This was all done good naturedly. Both guys laughed and did the deal. I was the seller.

If the engine is in the car, it's a job. If's out on a stand, it's a breeze - kinda. No, it's not necessary to remove the oil pan for a cam swap. You will have to remove the intake manifold so that the lifters can be removed. Normally you replace the lifters when putting in a new cam with a special break in grease (usually supplied) so the lifters and cam break in together. But, even if you don't, they must be out of the lifter bores or you'll never get the new cam in. You must remove the belt driven accessories, alt, a/c compr, air pump, water pump and power steering pump as these brackets usually bolt up to the water pump and timing chain cover. If the engine is in the car, the radiator and a/c condensor (radiator looking thing that sits in front of the radiator) have to removed. A note about a/c systems. Always assume there is pressure in the system. The system should be checked with guages, which I bet you don't have, and purged if freon is still present. This can be real dangerous, let someone who knows how to do this handle it. The crankshaft pully and balancer can be removed, this takes a special tool as the balancer is installed very tightly. A puller exerts equal pressure on all sides of it. If you try to pry it or pound it off, you'll just damage it. Once the above is done, remove the timing chain cover and you now see a two sprockets and a chain. The big one on top has three bolts holding it to the cam, remove the bolts, remove the sprocket and the cam then can be pulled out. Really, you should remove the old cam bearings and install new ones which also requires a special tool. These things have a way of growing and growing. You could use the old bearings, but I think if you've gone this far, do the job right. Sound easy? Hint: Get a book like Chilton or Haynes on rebuilding that engine and study on it awhile. If you've never done this job, it's not a good one to start on without some help. BTW, replace the timing chain too, they're not that expensive and will make a difference on that old 455.

Do a search for Mondello, he's the high performance Olds guru. There is no where near the aftermarket for Olds performance parts as there is Chevy, but there's enough. Olds blocks simply put are stronger regardless of what Chevy lovers will tell you (I've messed around with both for quite awhile). Get a Jeg's catalog and you'll find a pretty decent collection of hi po parts. Here's a good site for a formula to building up a 350 or other Olds engine: http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/oldsfaq.htm

I think Dextron or Dextron II would be okay for your transmission (it's for GM products) Mercron is a Ford product, I think. However, it's the only place you would use it. Brakes should be any decent DOT 3 fluid and power steering has it's own fluid (I think any commercial brand would be acceptable). For motor oil, I'd probably go with 10W40 that was pretty much the standard back in those days. The rear is probably a 90 weight, but check with a shop on that, they would know.

Will they need hardened valve seat inserts? I had that done on a set of late 60's heads to cope with unleaded gas.

Check your oil for gas contamination. I've seen some pumps leak fuel back into the block when they failed.

I know it's after the fact, but it's always a good idea to make a sketch or if you have a digital camera, take a bunch of pics. I seem to recall there is an L shape bracket that attaches to the lower a/c bracket (held on with a nut and bolt) and to the a/c compressor. If it's the one I'm thinking of, it has a square 1/2" hole that's used for tensioning with a 1/2" breaker bar. A long bolt passes through the L shape piece, right through the a/c compressor usually there is a spacer in there too. Sound about right?

The air pump doesn't pump air into the cylinders, it pumps some air into the exhaust gas as it leaves the engine. The idea is to obtain complete combustion of the air/fuel mixture so as not to pollute the atmosphere with hydro-carbons. So, by blowing some fresh air into the exhaust, you are helping the burning mixture burn more completely. This is really important at higher RPM ranges due to the exhaust coming out still burning. It's like blowing on a glowing ember to make it flame. Further own stream in the exhaust pipe is the catalytic convertor which is nothing more than an afterburner that also assists in burning unburned fuel. You would think it all burns in the cylinder, but it doesn't. Get behind a rich burning car and you'll smell the unburned fuel mix. The air pump drains very little (if any) HP from your engine. If you turn one by hand, you'll see what I mean. The biggest problems with lost HP is the restrictive heads, exhaust manifolds and pipes that slow the flow. That and retarded timing (I'm over simplifying here, because I don't fully understand it all and books can be written on this subject) and lowered compression ratios are what really pulled HP down on most engines. I would not recommend removing it if you car is EFI, it will play heck with your fuel mixture. If your state inspects for emmissions, you'll also be in a bind. As previously mentioned, removing it will not help your HP any.

Make sure your choke is opening all the way. Check the position of it when cold and when the engine is up to operating temp. The choke should be open when warm. If not, the engine will be sluggish (as in too rich) and hard to start. I also suspect the gas filter. There's been a lot of rain where I live and if any moisture gets into that little paper element filter, it's like death.

Yep about the push rods. Put them in before lowering the engine into the engine bay of your car. I ran into this problem when I changed my cylinder heads. I bolted and torqued the heads and began to assemble the valve train. I got to number 8 cylinder and couldn't clear the area for the vent fan that protrudes from the firewall. It's made of plastic, so after some deliberation, I drilled 1/2 inch holes into to it so I could then get the push rods in place. I taped over the holes with duct tape. The Vacuum booster was not a problem on my car (85 LeSabre) but if it had been, I'd have had to pull the heads off again.

Ok, you got me....what is a 4GCs... ?

I used black RTV on both sides of the water inlets on the valley pan per the instructions (they included the RTV with the valley pan). I used Permatex High Tack (it's a paint greenish brown snot sealant) on the intake ports. Between the ridge (that crushes when you torque) and all that other stuff, my Edelbrock Performer intake manifold .

Wow! Looks good and the price is reasonable. I might have some business for him. Thanks for the info.

I agree about Holley carbs. Simple, easy to tune but they have their fair share of problems. Either pick up a good Quad, they're out there and not all that expensive or check into what Edelbrock has as a replacement. I'm using an Edelbrock Performer carb with electric chock. It's the square bore type similar to the old Carters. I have a 600 CFM on a 455 and it gives great power and street-ability. I've been real pleased with it. They run around $260.00 and are easy to install. A 500 CFM should do the trick for your 350.

Does it happen when the engine is hot or cold or both? Can you get to higher speeds eventually, or is it just running slow or dying?

Actually, my 87 Trans Am's electric fan sensor (OEM) was set to come on at about 220 I think. I never liked that and ended up doing two things. One, I installed an over ride switch to be able to manually turn it on and two I went to an after market switch that comes on at 180 degrees. Most of the car mgfrs want you to run somewhat hotter than what used to be the norm from what I heard. Supposedly, that improves immissions. I'm told the engines are designed to run up to 235 degrees, but it makes me nervous. My 455 was doing what yours was. I thing I had a head gasket starting to fail. When I pulled the cylinder heads, the gasket (a Victor is what I think the builder used) stuck to both the head and the block ruining it. I really can't say for sure if it was blown, or starting to leak. I also found a tiny leak in my heater core which caused me to lose come coolant. I'm using a 3 core Modine radiator and a 160 degree tstat. Generally, at speeds under 70 I hang in at 170 degrees with outside temps hitting in the 80's. If I run faster, the temp will climb up to about 200 max - so far. One last thing, make sure that air dam under the front of the car isn't torn out or flopping around. It's crucial to cooling that is it's sole purpose. It creates a low pressure area causing air to go through the radiator and not around it. At high speeds (above 35 -40) your fan does almost nothing in the way of cooling if your fan clutch is working correctly. I thought about going to a fan with more blades, let us know if that works for you.

I think I would check the gas flow at the pump before dropping the tank although, that's what it sounds like. Why not disconnect the fuel line on the tank side of the fuel pump with the rear end elevated. If gas flows easily to out of the line, then the problem may be in the pump or even the gas filter. If not, then I, too suspect trash in the tank/line. The filter is a cheap easy fix, do it regardless if not already done. I got away from the little paper ones GM used on their Quads and went to a big metal inline one. Easy to replace. If gas flows evenly with no problems, hook it back up, disconnect the carb side of the fuel line (line going from pump to carb) disable the engine and crank. See if gas is pumping as it should. This is easier to do with the plugs out and your engine will rev higher. If fuel is pumping fine then it sounds like it's in the carb. I don't know about where you live, but we've had a lot of rain. The little paper element gas filters used in Quads hate water and even a little bit will cause them to clog up.

Check an auto tranny shop, they might have just what you need or can tell you how to make some like Oldsmaniac has posted. Another option is to get the fitting ends off both lines use a small tubing cutter (get one at any hardware store) making a nice neat cut. If you have a tubing flaring tool, flare the ends. Now get the correct fuel line - the type that won't collapse - and hose clamp to each end after the fittings are screwed into the tranny and radiator. This is commonly done, on a smaller level, when removing a radiator and running into stubborn fittings that have either been rounded or are just being a pain. Use wire ties to secure the fuel line to the chassis away from the exhaust and engine block. Just make sure you have no kinks in it.

The PCV valve should have a vacuum hose to the base plate of the carb that is non collapsable. However, the breather should not be connected to that. It should be able to draw fresh air in the same manner as the carb does. Get the little air filter looking stick in type breather filters and it should fit into the rocker (valve) cover. You may have to find a different rubber gromet to fit it correctly. Some open element air filters actually have provision for the breather tube on the underside. It's normally a knock out that has a bolt on adapter for the breather hose. The other may be a glazed or worn belt. Check the belt for shiney spots. There is a product call belt dress that can be sprayed on the belt as it is running. This product will temporarily eliminate some squeeling that are belt related. However, if the noise persists, it may be a bearing in the alternator going bad. The alternator can be taken apart and the rear bearing replaced or greased (don't go overboard on the grease if you decide to do that). Are you sure it's the alternator. You can test the other components by removing the belts (a long and tedious job) and replacing them noting when the bird starts singing again. Then you'll know for sure.

I guess if I were you, I'd start with the short block, that is the block, pistons, crank and related. If it's already torn down, give it a good cleaning including the oil galleys. I use detergeant and water for this if it isn't too cruddy. If it is, a trip to the machinist may be in order. They usually have a hot tank with caustic solution that will remove anything. Do not dip aluminum stuff in it, though. The machinist can inspect the cylinder bores and advise whether or not the cylinders are in round or if they need to be bored .30 (or more) over to get them back in round. If they are out of round, your looking to spend a few sheckels. You'll need pistons and rings (the rings you should replaced anyway). Also, he can mic the crank and inspect it for wear, cracks gouges etc. Here again, it the crank needs to be replaced, you will need a crank kit (crank and fitted connecting rods). Let me stop here and tell you a decent rebuild will exceed a $1,000.00 on an Olds engine. You can get away with it on a Chevy, because parts are much more plentiful and frankly, Chevy engines are cheaply made. You get into an Olds, Buick or Pontiac and you'll see what I mean. A poor man's rebuild would be a good cleaning, rod and main bearings, rings and an oil pump on the lower end. No need to go to a high volume pump, oem type works just fine. Have the heads gone over and let a machinist go through them. There's almost nothing you can do at home on them. That's where the HP is made. However, I think your 300 goal is a bit on the high side. I think 225 or so would be reasonable. I'm not sure about the which cam to use with the combo you have. That 39 degree lifter is something I haven't had to mess with. Mondello is probably the best source of info on the Olds engine, he's also a tad expensive. Perhaps some of the other guys who post here can give you a good formula to work with. One tip. Do not go out and buy the "biggest" of each item, i.e. cam, carb. This is one of the greatest mistakes new hot rodders make. Usually, you end up with less power than you started with. My last piece of advice it, buy an engine rebuild manual or Haynes book that covers your engine. Read through it and if you have specific questions, ask away. Someone will know the answers. Here's a the Olds FAQ site it's has some great info: http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/oldsfaq.htm

In running the numbers at the Olds FAQ site, I concur with your findings. The block is a 330 w/39 degree cam bank. The heads are from a 72 350 and the number for the intake doesn't show. The heads should have been modified where the push rods come through to allow for the 39 degree cam, I think. However, I do see a 22504086 which is an aluminum 307 intake. Did you tranpose the last two digits on the intake casting number? I'm guessing here, but it sounds like someone used the 350 heads because they have hardened valve seats that will allow you to use unleaded fuel. Also, with 64cc v. 60cc, your compression ratio dropped (along with today's thicker head gaskets) which will allow you to use 87 octane with stock pistons. I don't see the 20 CID difference as meaning much in lost HP when comparing a 330 to a 350. The stroke is the same on both engines with the bore being .119 inches smaller for the 330. The 330 may have a forged crank which is a plus and the block supposedly had higher nickel content. If the intake is from a stock 307, I'd sell it for the scrap aluminum. Go for and Edelbrock Performer I think you'll get a little bit better performance.

does this only happen when cold or when the engine has warmed up too? If it happens when cold (full choke mode) it may be the choke pull off. If it happens all the time, make sure the choke is opening all the way once the engine has warmed up some. Start the engine cold with the air cleaner off, then watch to see if the choke opens. If it doesn't, make the necessary repairs. If it does, then hand operate the throttle to see if the condition you describe happens. If so, I'd say the accelerator pump is not giving a good shot of gas. You can test that by turning the engine off, and with a flash light, look down the carb bores and see if a squirt of gas streams into as you operate the throttle. If it's doing all that, then I'm not certain where to trouble shoot next. Good luck.

See if it has hardened intake valve seat inserts. I don't think those heads came from the factory with them. I had to have them added to my 455 "C" casting heads. Try soaking the valves in carb cleaner - the type in the can with a basket to dip them in not the spray stuff. That may losen the carbon. The machinist can do that for you if you're going add inserts or have the valves and seats ground. I'm not so sure the three angle valve job does that much for performance when you consider the additional cost. I would have the springs checked out especially if you plan on using a new and higher performance cam. Have the machinist check the valve guides.

Tell ya what I done. I used a Crane Cam and hydraulic lifters(don't have the specs) but it was listed in Jeg's catalog and described as "near stock idle with brute acceleration...." or words to that effect. I do get a smooth idle at about 750 to 800 rpm in park. It drops to about 550 in drive and the car isn't jumping all around. I used a Cloyes double roller timing chain and sprocket set. The oil pump is stock. The engine builder recommended NOT using a high volume as they can actually clear an oil pan out at higher rpm faster than the oil can return and when you're going into a curve. The manifold is an Edlebrock Performer non-EGR with an Edlebrock 650 CM square bore carb. I used the stock HEI ignition with vacuum advance. The exhaust system is stock manifolds with true dual pipes and no cats. The trans is a TH350 to a 2.73 rear. The is a 1985 Buick LeSabre (2dr). It looks like an old man car - I'm pretty old - I get about 16 mpg with that set up. Drives nice an smooth and I can get a one wheel burn out (no posi-traction) of at least 10 yards or more. I don't do that very often as it's a bit juvenile (ok ok I'm a big kid) and it really isn't good for the car. I have really strong accelleration and no idea what top end would be. The engine runs fine on 87 octane gas. I feel like this set up gives good power and will hold up longer than going to higher CR and a more radical cam. I really don't like a rumpity-rump