RAH
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Posts posted by RAH
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Guys, This one is a rare model. Yes it had a wooden frame body covered in steel panels supplied by Budd. I had a very late '18 years ago and driving one is an experience. You will notice that the driver seat is up against the side which puts you off to the left of center of the steering wheel. Those 'Bucket' seats are spread apart to provide access to the front compartments and as such are a Royal pain to do any work on the dashboard (gauges, switches, speedo). I kind of miss the ole girl but am not in a position to make that kind of purchase right now. Here is a pic of my late '18 center door sedan next to a friend's early '19 four door sedan some years ago at a meet.
. Looks like twins at a meet until closer inspection and counting doors and the like. Enjoy!
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Thanks but not the same. His has the switch on top operated by lever and the armature has reduction gear drive with a gear machined on and part of the armature shaft. It engages a larger gear that goes to the bendix.
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I have a friend with a '29 Marmon Model 78 RHD Phaeton. Need the starter Delco model 724-G S/N 731. At least the armature for same. This one is damaged with pieces of windings ripped out. This armature has a gear reduction design on the drive end. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks!
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OOPS It looks like I misspoke once again. I believe that Cadillac battery box was behind the passenger side running board splash apron NOT the driver side. Remember He who makes NO mistakes is doing NOTHING!
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O K guys just to let y'all know you are not the only ones to get OFF subject. I am old enough to recall the invention of DIRT. And the dust devils rotated at 33 1/3, 45, or 78 RPM. I doubt if either of you can recall the ELP that rotated at 16 2/3 RPM for 'extended play'. And I am not totally unfamiliar with Cadillacs. Some years ago I helped a friend drag a '26 home in pieces. We finally, after nearly giving up, found the Battery cover plate for the driver side running board splash apron where they hid the battery. It was tucked back in the eves behind a large box. I swear that frame was nearly a foot tall and weighed a ton! Since I am into electrical starters, generators I was amazed at that DELCO unit where the armature was double ended with brushes on both ends. It had heavy contacts on the rear for start and more contacts on the forward end for generate with a 'walking beam' connecting one set or the other. For starting, when turn the ignition switch turned ON it sent power to the generate end to cause it to 'Motor Over'. Since there was NO Bendix that facilitated the physical connection to the flywheel ring gear when operating the starter pedal. Now as one of our members liked to say "OK nothing New here everyone back to sleep" or something like that. Enjoy!
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On 7/29/2022 at 10:21 PM, RAH said:
22touring, I think you will find the long pad like in your picture from Myers goes on top of the frame full length in the area where the running board splash shields go up over it. Then there are individual pads of a heavier material (appx. 2x4") that go where the body bolts go on top of those splash shields. There are a pair all the way at the rear of the body on each side as well as those body bolts in the flat surface of the frame ahead of the curve down where those splash shields go. I hope this helps. RAH
22touring, You will not need to do anything with those long straps or the body bolt pads until you are completely finished with the chassis AND the body. When you are ready to install the body I would first install the running board splash aprons over those long straps (three screws on each side LOOSELY) and have the body supported above the frame with just enough clearance to insert those individual pads and bolts (Down from inside the body). I would not tighten any of those body bolts OR the radiator mounting bolts up front until all the pushing and shoving gets the doors to close properly AND the hood to close on both sides at cowl and radiator shell spacing looks good. By the way for what it's worth I went over to an industrial supply house and procured a square foot of commercial belting. It was about 3/8 inch thick and cut it into the rectangular pads for the body bolt areas. Good Luck and keep up the good work.
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Pfeil,
I certainly do NOT intend to appear argumentative but you assume these 25 or so responses to a loaded question seem to assume that engine swap was done for some Performance issue (was it a good idea?) while totally oblivious to the fact that it may have been done for expedience to get that Packard, possibly with a blown engine, up and running with an available spare engine. Virtually all of those responses have absolutely nothing to do with Army Tanks OR Fighter Planes to the original question! if you get my drift. Is it just ME or do we need to paw through dozens of unrelated responses before we can come up with our own answer? What is WRONG with 'Keep it short'? And for what it's worth, I like both Packards AND Cadillacs as well as Good Ole' Dodge Brothers!
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OOps, Sorry to all. I mis spoke using Chrysler instead of Cadillac as the original OP quoted. The rest of my rant remains intact in that many on here have a nasty habit of rambling OFF subject. And as I mentioned the original OP did NOT state when or why that engine swap occurred. Therefore speculation regarding if it was a good idea is pure speculation and basically irrelevant and unfounded on the premise that it may have been intentionally done for performance issues. Thank You.
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Guys, Guys, Guys, I am recalling a Shakespear bit "Much ado about nothing" Here we are today attempting to apply logic to a likely illogical situation once again! The original op did not mention when or why that engine swap was done. For all we know the Packard threw a rod and the Chrysler engine was available for free from a friend, neighbor, or relative from a wrecked car and just needed to get his Packard running again as cheaply as possible. Likely there was NO decision relative to Horsepower to weight ratio or any of the attributes currently being ascribed. Just sayin'
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On 7/9/2022 at 5:32 PM, 22touring said:
The Master Parts List, at page 134, says there is supposed to be a front body to frame pad on top of each frame rail on both sides, so 2 part nos. 19640 for the front of the frame. Then it says there are supposed to be center and rear body to frame pads on each side; all 4 of those were the same, part no. 3612. I'd like to know about how long part nos. 19640 and 3612 were. Are they all supposed to be located at the body-to-frame bolts? Anybody have a picture of the body to frame pads installed on a frame? Thank you.
22touring, I think you will find the long pad like in your picture from Myers goes on top of the frame full length in the area where the running board splash shields go up over it. Then there are individual pads of a heavier material (appx. 2x4") that go where the body bolts go on top of those splash shields. There are a pair all the way at the rear of the body on each side as well as those body bolts in the flat surface of the frame ahead of the curve down where those splash shields go. I hope this helps. RAH
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Also in the rear end, etc. some of those pins you are trying to get out may be tapered pins and will only come out opposite from where they were inserted then rounded off on the other end. In other words they didn't see any need to remove them for service.
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On 12/29/2021 at 6:32 AM, 22touring said:
Concerning removal of the brake pedal from the clutch cover: I thought for sure that nearchoctown would know the answer. I wish I could ping somebody like Rodger "Dodger" Hartley or Bob Scafani with the question, because they know everything. (Of course I could send them a message, but I hate to bother the poor guys every time I encounter a problem.)
Sorry to be tardy with this. I have been 'Off Line' with problems at home. In '19 ish DB changed the clutch pedal linkage from a direct connect to the shaft to a 'compound' type where the lever sticking up for the pedal fastens to another short link below and shaft that goes inside to operate the clutch. This may be pointed out in that 'Mechanics Instruction Manual' or in a copy of the Owners Manual. Perhaps it may be clear in the Lubrication Chart. I do hope you are taking copiuus photos and a notebook full of notes. Remember if it was EASY anyone could do it! Good Luck!
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Guys, and Willy. Your initial query specified "1918 DB Wood wheels". Those wheels pictured are NOT for Dodge Brothers. They never used 'clincher' type and those felloes bulge at spoke intervention. See attached and stay on topic. "Dodge Brothers and 1918 and proper wheel color". The important data missing is the car serial number the wheels are for.
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I was going to mention that round ash tray as well. All the '34s I have seen and the one I used to own had the square ash tray and the radio control heads fit there. As I mentioned earlier on the Horns being left and right, there is another anomaly you might investigate. That dash mounted headlight switch with the lever controls 'Off-park LO-and HI beam In that order. BUT there is also a foot operated dimmer switch that controls Hi-Lo on ONLY the LEFT headlight! That foot switch has preference over the dash switch when in the HI beam position. I wonder which engineer thought that one up? I guess it kind of makes sense dimming the light closest to oncoming traffic. I do not know of any other car that does that but am always welcome to learn something new. Good Luck and keep having fun!
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Xander, Yes those very rare horns belong on that car. And they are left and right. That elbow just under the dome where the pot metal bugle fastens are different. One is a complete elbow and the other has a air hole at the rear. They are tuned to different pitches so they compliment and chorus together. Keep that beautiful car original for todays kids to know what real cars should look like!
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15 hours ago, Xander Wildeisen said:
Are those the stock horns on the Dodge? Or an extension tip of some kind.
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1912 Staver, Yes it IS about POWER and likely always will be! LOL
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With all due respect to Gunsmoke and others, I concur with moderator that this subject has been talked to death with NO obvious real conclusion. However, think about this for a moment. This blue ball we call home has over time had MANY climate changes over centuries some catastrophic and others not so much but all those have happened LONG before ICE engines or EVs with their coal fired power plants came to pass. I believe the real problem here is the obsessive litigious mindset that things cannot simply happen without something OR someone to blame for it!! Think hard and Logical before jumping off that fence Ya'll are balancing on one side or the other. Things CAN simply happen. The important thing is how we as a community deal with it! There are still people building fancy homes on river banks or cliffs for the view Damn the floods or landslides! Fact, EVs and their battery fuel tanks are NOT Green! Their power still needs to be created external to the vehicle and their battery with heavy metals still need to be dug out of the ground as long as those metals still exist. The bottom line is about POWER to move things OR control others. Some people make things happen, others watch things happen and still others wake up and say "What just happened?" Climate change is and will continue to happen. The important thing is how the corporate WE adjust and deal with it!
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O.K., Research shows the OEM radio for '35 Auburn was Crosley and nearly Unobtanium! Somewhere in '36 GM bought the Kokomo Crosley plant and the result radios were DELCO which looked exactly like the Crosley because the tooling was the same. Suffice it to say finding a radio for that control head will be just as difficult as finding a control head for the Auburn car radio! Good Luck.
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Very interesting. Curious that the Radio control head script matches that on the '35 Auburn dash. Is it possible that the radio in each is made by Crosley?
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I have always been interested in electronics ie. radios etc. I believe my first tool was a WELLER Jr soldering gun. Dads soldering Iron took too long to come up to heat and was too cumbersome for my jobs. Shortly after was my first Radio Shack MICRONTA multimeter. Yes I still have and use it although a newer SENCORE FET meter is for regular use. How many of you recall replacing that 9 ohm resister inside the meter due to forgetting to switch from OHMS to VOLTS before checking voltage? AND the soldering gun has over time had the black bakelite case replaced due to a fall to concrete floor. Yes that was back when replacement parts were still available. I do not subscribe to the 'throw away society' or throw broken things away I fix them!
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Ron, It looks like you have a retired Military truck. It would not have starter/generator or battery and that ignition switch would, I believe, be different with NO electric lights. Also be aware there were two different Roller Smith ammeters. The early one fastened to dash with three screws in rim and handled starter current as well as charging current. The one like shown in your pix is later '16-'17 and mounts with rear bracket. It handles ONLY charge current and will NOT work as a replacement on earlier cars with the Model D starter/generator. Check with Doug 'Nearchocolatetown' for more info on the military trucks and dash, etc. Also remember the dash boards for RHD are all different as well.
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Stakeside, Lovely looking truck. I can recall taking my '15 roadster to a local car show a couple years ago. It was the oldest and tallest car at the show. It did draw nearly as many visitors as some of those fancy newer rods! LOL It's all about the ride, right?
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Guys, Guys, Why is it so hard to keep these threads on point? What the %^&^ does a vintage James Bond movie reference have to do with the initial query "What auto related words or phrases do you dislike seeing or hearing"??
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. Looks like twins at a meet until closer inspection and counting doors and the like. Enjoy!
1917 Dodge Center Door Sedan Michigan $10,500
in "Not Mine" Automobiles For Sale
Posted
Just an addition to the above comments. The Dodge Brothers closed cars (sedan and coupe) were produced from late '16 to late '23 and were wooden frame bodies. I also have a '22 type A sedan that is wood frame. It is rumored the Brothers Dodge did not have trust in a wooden body with their weight or something. You will notice that the "All Steel" closed cars were NOT produced until after the demise of both Brothers Dodge. Enjoy!