RAH
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Posts posted by RAH
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Doctor's Pontiac, Glad you were able to track down and fix the nasty point contact problem. Here for others on this site is another fix for those contacts. It is basically a way to remove the current from those points and transfer it to a transistor to handle that current and voltage spike from the back EMF of the collapsing magnetic field of the rewind coil when the points open. This is something I did years ago for a friend on his '55 Chrysler. He has since passed and I do not know where that Chrysler is now. I do know the clock was working fine for years after the mod. Without getting onto an extended discussion of Electronics, the basic idea was to remove the non-grounded lead from the points and move it over to the transistor base lead to trigger the transistor. That 1K resistor from the base of the transistor to POWER keeps it in OFF condition until the points close and ground that transistors base terminal. As mentioned, it will work with POS or NEG ground cars by changing the transistor from NPN to PNP as noted. Also change the orientation of the snubber diode across the coil for different power GROUND. Good Luck and keep thinking positive thoughts.
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Doctor's Pontiac et all, I am not sure how that glovebox door is fitted on that car, but I presume there is a power wire fed through somewhere possibly with an inline fuse. One thing to remember every electrical device needs both power AND Ground. I presume (perhaps incorrectly) that the ground for that clock is via the hinges and dash mechanical connections to the door. The intermittent operation and responding to physical force, LOL may be faulty ground in the hinges. Just a thought. Perhaps an additional ground wire is in order?
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Walt, et all, I agree with the concept of enticing younger members to our hobby. Here are a couple pix of my 1927 Auto Red Bug at meets. The one with several munchkins was at a Micro Car meet in Ore. I figured there wasn't much they could break that I couldn't fix and they seemed to enjoy. The other pix was at a local car club meet. The fellow and his sister (I believe) was having fun pretending to drive it. So, when the meet was over and cars were leaving I found him and asked if he would like to actually drive it. Of course the answer was a definite YES!. He could barely reach the GO pedal but was in HOG Hevan. I was able to walk along side over to the van. Later I saw him talking to his Uncle asking him to buy him one!! The point is if we are to continue in our hobby we need to entice the next generation to SHARE instead of those LARGE 'DO NOT TOUCH' signs.
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alsfarms, The DB closed cars (sedan -coupe) were wood frame construction up to late '22. The '23 Coupe production went to Budd all steel EXCEPT '23 ONLY were mostly Budd steel body except the rear area above the belt line around from door to door including rear window. That was wood frame construction with that area covered in top material hence the "Leatherback" designation. 'All the same, huh"
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If the original OP was referring to chassis wood, wasn't the early Brush running on wooden chassis rails? And as was mentioned earlier many manufacturers used wood in the body designs including Ford and Early (' 16 to '23) Dodge Brothers closed cars both Sedan and Coupe were wooden design infrastructure. My '22 DB type A Sedan is all wood interior body structure with Budd steel panels. It was the last year for same. Actually the '23 closed cars used mostly BUDD steel in the body EXCEPT above the belt line around the upper rear from door to door including rear window. That section was covered in roofing material.
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Guys, Sorry I do not recall what the fuel source to the carb was mentioned up front. Is it Vaccuum Tank, or Pressurized Fuel system? If it is vaccuum tank, I would check the carb outlet port between the #2 and #3 cylinder for excessive fuel. IF the vaccuum port inside that tank is NOT plugged properly the unit will fill the inner AND outer tanks and run raw fuel down the vac. line essentially bypassing the carb. Unfortunately a substantial number of carb. problems are NOT carb. problems rather vaccuum tank OR electrical. Just asking.
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Guys, I almost forgot one more DB 'Period Accessory' I have for my 1915 Dodge Brothers. It is an engine operated tire pump that connects through the crank hole to the crank shaft. It will save 'STROKES' from operating that 2 barrel manually operated high pressure factory supplied tire pump. Enjoy!
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Poppy510, If your left rear wheel seems to lock up perhaps it is operating correctly, and the problem may be the right hand brake is too loose or non functional . Just a thought. Check that brake equalizer to see if it is operating correctly. Yes that may require two people. Good Luck.
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This 'Thing' seems to have something to do with a Jack. Anyone know how and what jack system it was used on.
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I too have collected period accessories for my '15 Dodge Brothers. The most prominent is the REX 'All seasons top which is the most expensive as it cost over $200.00 in the day. Also have a complete set of RH Hassler shocks front and rear specifically made for Dodge Brothers. the ca had a set of spring loaded bumper on front and I fabricated brackets for the rear that look like they would have come with the front ones. Then there are the period (pat'd 1917) turn signals from the Diamond Electric Signal Co. from SanFrancisco, Ca. Inside are the Bud Vase and Tiffany sun shades (Probably not that one) and the BOYCO running board cans. I'll try to get pix Enjoy!
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1919 Touring Your car looks great and makes a nice presentation to the public. I am not a fan of cream wheels since they should be Dodge Brothers Blue but what first struck me was the slanted windshield. However, research shows that was implemented at touring car # 364634 (July '19) so is correct for production figures. I am a historic correct advocate! LOL The year 1919 was a transition time where the body was 2" wider and the rear fenders were installed in notches in the body rather than the '15 - '18 where they were installed on curved angle irons fastened to the side of the body. The slant windshield continued to 1923. Continue having FUN with your new acquisition and check out the Dodge Brothers Club www.dodgebrothersclub.org
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On 8/20/2022 at 8:59 PM, TonyAus said:
To get the gauge ring off run a piece of broken hacksaw blade or a thin knife between the glass and the ring. The aim is to dig out the remains of the top gasket. Then apply a liberal dose of your favorite penetrant (WD40 etc) which should drain down toward the threads. Keep a pool of penetrant on top of the glass for a few days, gently tapping around the outside of the ring each time you think of it. Only then will you have any success with a strap wrench - patience is a virtue.
The quick way is to apply heat to the ring. This is also a quick way to the undertaker.
Guys, Here is another answer to removing the gauge and rim without leaving plier tool marks. It was made from a 1" x 3" x 3' hardwood board. Using a hole saw for the hole and cut a 1/8" slot and a carriage bolt with washer and nut. Will get a grip on that 80-100 year old rim that was likely on since installed in factory. Good Luck
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Guys, The engineer that dreamed up this thing probably had a pickle and onion milkshake the night before. Anyway here is a expanded view drawing I did of mine ('28 Std 6) for reference to reassemble it after disassembling and cleaning. I hope it helps. Good Luck.
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Guys, Also consider the volume of air space will affect the pressure. On my '15 Dodge Brothers I do NOT completely fill the tank with fuel (round tank) as the volume of air decreases rapidly initially as the fuel in the round tank goes down. Also, if the tank is filled to the top it will have a tendency to pull fuel back the air line and that ball check on the hand pump may allow fuel to dribble down the dash and floor. Don't ask how I know that! Actually it was a faulty leather seal on the pump handle inside the pump. Just saying Volume and Pressure are interconnected.
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The quick answer is NO there should not be any connection from the commutator (stack) to the shaft (ground). I presume you have lifted and placed a slip of cardstock under all the brushes so there is no connection from external sources to that armature commutator. One of my favorite pieces of test equipment are 3 pieces of cardstock which can be installed under the brushes before attempting continuity checks.
I assume the generator in question is still assembled or on the car. If you have disassembled it and have the armature by itself on the table there should be NO connection from the commutator to the shaft. If it shows you will need a new or replacement armature OR have it sent out for rewind. Good Luck.
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Guys, The 1915 Dodge Brothers used a air pressurized fuel system. There was a hand pump and pressure gauge on dash for starting up and a small pump operating off the rear cylinder exhaust cam to keep up pressure while driving.
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Some time ago I acquired these photos of a '16 roadster with a Rex Top. It was obviously at a car show. The photo shows the car has New York Historic license. I have no idea when the photos were originally taken, sorry!
I have a '15 roadster with a REX top and would like to correspond with the owner of the car in New York if that car still exists. I am attaching pix. of the car in question and mine. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
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AND, look at the pictures of that '17 DB 'Center Door' if the door was in the center of the body panels you will imagine a LOT of leg room for the rear passengers and squeezing carefully past and around the back of the front seat to enter. I seriously doubt Horse Drawn carriages had any significant influence on their design!
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Guys, Like I said the Dodge Brothers 'Center Door' sedan door was NOT in the center of the body. Rather it was in the exact place where the rear door on the fore door sedan was located. I presume they were using diagrams and dimensional data for the 4 door ahead of anticipated production of the 4 door. Perhaps to get sedans in production to test the market, so to speak. Just sayin'.
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Guys, I have this picture of a '16 DB roadster with REX top licensed Historic in New York. I would like to contact the owner if that car still exists to compare notes. Here is a pic of MY '15 roadster with REX top. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
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Sorry. I thought he was talking about his email. Not this web page.
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Len,
OOOHHH So many variables! What type computer are you using, what is your email program, etc.?
Usually there would be a list like "INBOX", "SENT ITEMS", "DRAFTS", "DELETED ITEMS", Etc. In each of these and usually they are arranged by date. I am NOT a computer type but after you more clearly indicate some of these variables someone on here should be able to lend a hand. Good Luck!
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Model T Speedster, you did not mention what the ultimate application would be for. Believe it or not the North East Electric company did make a unit available for model T Fords early on. See attachments. Good Luck finding one today though.
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Just one more thing (I promise). You will note the only side door on the 'Center Door" is in the exact position as the rear door on the Four door so there may have been some anticipation of the 'Next' model?
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41 Borg clock winding mechanism
in Technical
Posted
Jon 37, you are correct in the idea that the transistor is the solid state equivalent of your external relay. However, that relay will still have on it contacts that need to carry the load and arcing of the original clock solenoid. That would simply be moving the problem to another location, right? And why in the world would there be an inline fuse that wouldn't blow?? And Don, you are missing the point. The continuous making and breaking of the points physically is not at issue. It is the arcing between the points when they OPEN that is the culprit not unlike the points in the distributer where there is a parallel capacitor to absorb much of that arcing. That is the purpose of that snubbing diode across the solenoid in the transistor circuit. You will note it is installed in opposite direction to the applied voltage being used. Pos or Neg.
The circuit works and did so for years after the mod. I wish I knew where that Chrysler is today. Enjoy!