2seater

I for one really appreciate the support, for somewhat selfish reasons, and perserverance will eventually pay off. Fastchips does list "custom programming" available for $350, but I would have to be able to tell them what I want, and therein lies the problem. What I am looking for is certainly worth something, but cut and try would get very expensive and time consuming to boot. For about the same price I can purchase a good alcohol injection system, but of course there is no guarantee this will totally solve the problem. Input is always appreciated. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Both Sahein and Padgett lost me after about the first sentence. Is the L67 the supercharged one? I checked in on this post to see if it would be worthwhile to try to purchase a PROM for the suggested engine, but if already available, that would be wonderful. Believe me, if I could find someone that was conversant in what you are telling me, I would certainly talk with them. Fastchips doesn't seem interested and so far I have come up empty, but I will keep looking.

As usual, you have cut right to the heart of the question/problem. Substituting more appropriate programming on the existing chip is probably the best solution and the most elegant. Now the big question, how can this be accomplished? There seems to be precious little information available, and even less help. As the only known expert in this field, can you help with this? I hate to even ask, but any guidance would be much appreciated.

Yeah, I believe alky injection is on the horizon. The blow through was the easiest and cleanest installation, not necessarily the best. Still need to get a recording device to make sense out of what and when things actually happen. I have inquired as to the available programming information for the older GN chips and if the same is available for mine, maybe some sort of comparison could be done? High timing at first helps spoolup and response, and if knock can be controlled with alcohol, it should be a good combination.

No burn marks on the hood, or insulation for that matter <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> The whole system is ceramic coated inside and out (my single biggest expense), with no heat shields used except the small bolt on one below the throttle and cruise cables. The turbo does get very hot so radiant heat is an item to keep an eye on. Did you like the welded copper upper radiator hose? Much tuning needs to be done and this may change the heat radiation from the pipes which is acceptable right now. My previous stock manifolds are ceramic coated also, which I recommend highly. Gotta get that knock retard problem under control first. By the way, will the later model bag 'o snakes intake bolt up to my engine? I have magnified any air distribution problems in the stock intake by more than 50%.

I am certainly no computer wizz so please understand I may use terms incorrectly. The older turbo cars, such as the GN's apparently had MAF tables that extended to 255 gm/sec, and I make the assumption this reasonably matched the capability of the engine/turbo package. A well tuned one with small modifications can exceed the tables, so the aftermarket chip makers would dial in parameters that would take over when the stock system was exceeded. Their chips were plentiful and cheap, so much so that there were makers that had chip holders with switches to access up to ten or twelve different chips to match the type of fuel being run, track conditions etc.. Essentially select your performance level. Again I make the assumption that at some point, probably at the limit of the MAF table, I need some sort of modification made that would reduce timing to a selected value. Fueling is of course another issue, but I suspect timing is the main culprit right now. I have tried it with the high timing chip (Fastchips), and I saw up to 15 degrees of retard. I switched to the stock chip and saw 10 degrees retard with one spike to 13. Still too much. I always run 93 octane. There are lots of variables of course. Air distribution in our manifold would favor #1 & #2 being lean and #5 & #6 rich, all of which will affect the timing required plus the tendency to knock. O2's never dropped below .88, which is somewhat rich, but that can be caused by lean misfire as well. I have a lot of tuning to do, and I appreciate any input. I belatedly contacted Rinda about a Diacom (no reply so far), and there is no doubt recorded sensor readings will be required to properly tune and plot a course of action. The main thrust of my original question is if there is any room in the chip for additional programming, or failing that, modify the existing program for this application. One last thing, he high timing chip seems to spool up quicker and low speed response is better. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

Does anyone know if the MAF tables can be expanded to read past 170 gm/sec? My turbo project max's the tables pretty easily. Is this even important? There is a need to get a spark retard problem under control but otherwise it is a real rush.

The turbo seems to work pretty well, although the car wants to run over cars ahead in traffic. It operates so differently since the turbo spools up quickly enough that there is more air available and it wants to keep accelerating without much throttle input. Nice strong push without any dramatic events as long as you stay out of the throttle at low speed. Tires spin at anything more than half throttle from a stop, but they are worn out and it's only 45 degrees here. Nice stable 7-8 psi of boost. Nice turbo whine at lower speed as it spools up but the exhaust has gotten quieter, even with no cat. My diagnostics refused to work today (climate control problem) so I don't really know what's going on inside the engine. It ran nice and cool though. If any of the turbo calculators are correct, should be in the 240-250 hp range. This must be similar to the low boost turbo Reatta the factory developed. They should have kept on developing it.

Style? I'll take that as a compliment <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" /> I did have my turbo project running tonight and I hope for a road test this weekend. Soon to be the only "remaining" turbo Reatta on the road.

Padgett, I agree with the comment about the Jag sounding good. The only Corvair I have had any experience with was a turbocharged one and the sound is "different", plus it was 30 years ago. I have recent experience with three different domestics and the sound is flat, to say the least. Maybe it has something to do with valve timing or compression ratio. Two have no cat. and one had twin cats. All sounded lousy to me, but of course that's all a matter of taste. GM, I had forgotten about the Camaros. That would be a car to do a modern GN type of installation. I agree the modern manifolds are better, plus the 2.5" is a bonus. Sometimes the benefit is just in the doing, not using what has been done before, kinda like your project. Perhaps useless is the wrong term, it's more like an answer to a question no one asked. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

This is just an observation made while finishing my turbo install which may of some interest for those looking for a possible improvement using the '88-'90 exhaust manifolds. The outlet at the rear is actually off center to the left of the recess where the tailpipe connects to the exhaust. It "almost" looks as if it is made for dual exhaust. True dual exhaust sounds terrible on a V6, but it looks as if some definite improvement could be made to the stock system. Padgett suggested a sort of try-wye setup some time ago. The stock rear manifold could be cut to remove the #2 and #4 cylinders and remove the stock rear outlet. Install a true elbow at the stock exhaust outlet location aimed down in the stock location. This would be the exhaust from the front manifold plus #6 cylinder, just like stock. The outlets from #2 and #4 cylinders would have to be modified or better yet, hand fabricated into a small two cylinder manifold, 2" diameter would be adequate, so it can be routed down next to the original outlet. The two pipes can be joined at any point but the further down, the smoother it could be merged. The stock outlet which was removed earlier could be relocated closed to the Cat. or better yet, twin small Cats.could be installed, especially if they are staggered in the stock location and the pipes joined behind them. Maybe in the useless info category, but there were some questions some time ago. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

Do you drag race your Reatta? What sort of mods and times do you have? I don't know how long the clutches in the converter will last, but we have a lot less power and especially torque than the GN's.

I don't remember what year your Reatta is, but my '90 manual indicates the tan/black wire, #422 is grounded by the ECM for lockup to engage. Grounding that wire should lockup the converter at any time. I know some of the GN guys do this in high gear and it helps trap speed.

As well as excess blowby one other little realized item is that under full throttle, low vacuum conditions, the small vacuum formed at the hose that connects to the intake or air cleaner actually pulls oil vapors the other way, toward the air cleaner. If this is fouling the air filter, you might consider installing an independant filter element for the PCV system.

The stuff from a GN or Turbo Regal isn't a direct bolt on (I wish it was). Almost every thing is different, including which way the engine faces and where the air enters the engine. You CAN use some of the parts from a GN, but most of the stuff, such as manifolds, all point in the wrong directions. The "83-'85 hot air (non-intercooled) GN's come closest to our application. Our friend with the Trofeo has had success with the turbo from a Merkur and my project is a hybrid using parts from a '79 turbo Riviera, '84 hot air turbo from a Regal, and an '83 T'Bird. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />. My little photo to the right is mocked up on my spare engine. Actually I am getting the car home today (it was 28 degrees yesterday with snowfall), so I have delayed getting it out of storage to start the assembly on the car. My plan is too have it on the road in the next month. E-mail direct to my address and I will send pics and a breakdown if you are interested.

If they are the Bosch 901 injectors in the stock 3800 engine they are rated @ 18.8 lb/hr at 43.5 psi. The number is the last three digits of the number on the black plastic top near the electrical connector. The number on all the Bosch injectors starts with 280. Try the website below for additional info. http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm

I'm glad the heat worked for you but an open flame around a battery is asking for trouble. Depending on the state of charge, and how sealed the battery is, hydrogen gas could be in the area.

I got mine from Quad Air (Red Armstrong) but they don't have a website. I'll find the phone number as soon as I can. Pretty stout times if they are even close. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Thanks Roberta. I see the NHRA got us.

Roberta, I didn't see anything about next years Nat's. What happened to move it to July? It was plenty hot enough in June a couple of years ago and I would think July would be similar or more.

Will be there most likely. After last years rains maybe I'll bring flippers and a snorkel. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Of course this is just an opinion but generally whitewalls tend to take away from the look of an alloy wheel. Blackwalls are a nice contrast for the shiny wheel. White lettered tires just don't fit the refined character of the Reatta and the ones I have seen seem to cheapen the look of the car. Of course different strokes and such..

Robert had a pretty good explanation and has done some serious work to get the big speakers in his doors. Just for reference I installed Polk audio 5.25 component speakers in my front doors after installing three different sets and returning them. They were about $200 for the four speaker set with crossover and are rated at 92db @ 1watt. I also installed Pioneer 6x9 coaxials in the rear rated at 93db. @ 1watt. Still sound good three years later.

Oops. Never mind, I figured it out. It looks like that would fill the bill nicely. I'll check out the pricing. Thanks.

Hey Padgett. I have no problem using something else if the price is right although I am not familiar with Diacom. I tried the link and got unintelligable gibberish. If it will record continuous data it is what I am looking for and the graphics are not necessary. Do you have another link or address to the website for Diacom?