gungeey
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Posts posted by gungeey
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For the owners sake, I hope that's a warranty claim 🤑
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4 minutes ago, starfireelvis said:
This was taken with the work in progress. Do you actually think this is what the end result looked like?
Don’t be so obtuse…
OK, sorry. Good job helping your friend
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28 minutes ago, jplein said:
Does anybody out there in the world of rivieras have a alternator or generator as it was called in 1964 for my Riviera? Every time I try to purchase one they give me one with the plug in at the three oclock positon when it needs to be at the twelve oclock position. I got one wijth the plugin at the twelve oclock position but had the screws in the wrong position. A question I have is can the shell with 4 screws holding it together be taken apart and just turn it 180 degrees and screw it back together or will that mess up the working inside.
Yes. Split the two haves only enough to clear then turn to the desired position. This is with the 4 long screws removed. Youtube: "Clock an alternator"
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Some nice looking floorboards 👀
The brakes The R front looks right for 63. The back..I don't get it. Looks like the guy lost track of his pipe cutter (or maybe was getting paid by the foot 😆)
There is a diagram in the ServiceManual for proper brake line layout p.9-6
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On 9/16/2023 at 2:22 PM, starfireelvis said:
This pictorial would of been nice in the beginning. Zip ties. coat hangers and a bonus assortment of hackery. Where's the duct tape and bubble gum?🤣
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Someone mentioned they had some low priced cardboard kits..50 bucks, if I recall?
Anybody thar can refresh my memory? Thanks 👍
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There's a picture of an original battery in your FSM.
10-6 Battery and cables
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My rear tires are worn to 7/32s and I run them at 28lbs cold. My speedometer is spot on.
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10 minutes ago, XframeFX said:
Related Points:
1) The solenoid is on the starter.
2) Ignition Switch Harness Plug
3) Neutral/BU Switch on shifter
4) 12V CarBattery
5) Solenoid Heat Shield (missing?)
Possible cause hot or cold points, #1 to 4
Possible cause hot, #4 & 5
Since your Shop already addressed the starter/solenoid and I would always change the solenoid if I had to deal with the starter, the battery should be scrutinized. Strap a fully charged spare in the trunk (in a marine battery box) with booster cables. The next next time this happens, try boosting.
Always good to have a Multi-Meter for trouble shooting. If alone, use long leads, pick up system voltage from inside to observe while driving (cigarette lighter?). Use a momentary switch under the hood connected to the firewall bulkhead to crank with ignition ON/OFF.
There are three system voltages:
1) Static Battery when shut down (>12.6 Vdc)
2) Voltage during operation - charging (approx. 14Vdc)
3) Cranking Voltage (approx. 10.2 Vdc)
A red indicator always shows on a charger initially. If there's a prolonged "ON" status, then that indicates something. Again, a good auto-ranging Multi-meter, your best tool for now and future.
Oh, not one to brag. I have a lifetime battery in my Riviera from when Canadian Tire first opened on Level #2 in West Edmonton Mall. Upstairs for an Auto Shop? They've long moved away to a more practical ground level facility. I think I'm on my 5th gratis battery!
Good Luck!
Only one to bring up missing heat shield. That coupled with corroded rotted "green copper" connections and terminals on 60 year old wiring
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Got it. Pontiac.
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On a Buick intake as seen.
Fuel inlet on drivers side.
The brass screw in the middle was on superwildcat 2x4 rear carbs.
Anybody familiar? No stamped numbers on front leg
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14 hours ago, Riviera63 said:
Thank you Steve. No rush, because I am not sure I am going to do the cut outs. When you have some time if you could take some measurements that would be great. I am sure there are others that would be interested as well.
Bill
Me and that old girl parted ways, Bill. She found another sugar daddy 🤑
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Use a heat gun and/or sit it in the sun
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52 minutes ago, Hanky said:
I have been trying to figure out what my numbers should tell me but I cant get them to add up…
On one side of the block there is M W379. Should be 1966 425cui single 4 barrel.
H=Flint
Next to H is 9, but maybe upside down and should be a 6, for 1966. Other casting numbers on intake and heads indicate 1966.
The other digits does not match, or break up, into something that matches body style or series description.
Please let me know if you see what I cannot see👍
You have a couple digits still under paint that remain to be seen. Don't worry about it. It's a 66 425 out of a Wildcat, Electra, or Riviera.
Those are the only models your engine was available in. 👍
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Here you go:
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Those are World famous Buick 12" Aluminum Front drums 🥁
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45 minutes ago, Hanky said:
Looks like M and W:
Yup. Plain as day. 👍
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I have heard those bosses are not always definitive of a 425 the best bet is to look at the code herewhere I'm pointing below. It should read MW or MZ
Also that block.. yes, mine.. going in a 64.
PS your pictures look plenty clean to me
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Hanky thanks for cutting through the pollution. You gave me exactly what I was looking for. Simple
Sure looks like a 66 425 you have there to me
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Has anybody fitted a '66 425 in a 63/4/5??
Should I be concerned with clearance at the heater core box as the MW has the added casting material/hook receiver?
If someone has this setup I would appreciate a picture Thanks, Steve in MA
I can speculate very well on my own, what I am requesting is comment from someone who has actual experience. Thanks again.
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Clarks lists them in their latest catalog.
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On 8/24/2023 at 4:54 PM, 51b said:
Bearings. Try Terrill machine 254 893 2610 I got a set for a straight 8
Overseas .030s only
Thanks for the thought 👍
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What happens if/when the transporter arrives and claims the fuel cost more than anticipated and again wants more money from the car owner?
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1964 Riviera - Clunk noise while accelerating and braking
in Buick Riviera
Posted
use a ball joint remover to press it straight