gungeey
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Posts posted by gungeey
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7 minutes ago, Finn Riv said:
Sorry, this is what I think to mean, but wrote different thing.
So that what I had to ask was how to grease cardan joints in the middle. My greasegun head doesn’t fit inside of x-frame.
Double cardan joints, each gets lubed in one spot. If you're lucky it will accept some grease. Spin your driveshaft and look at your ujoints, some may have fittings also
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2 hours ago, Finn Riv said:
Dear Rivieara colleagues! How you grease drive shaft middle bearing? Do you have some adapter to grease gun?
Finn: the carrier bearing? Sealed for life. No grease. The cardan joints have a fitting and aftermarket ujoints sometimes them.
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48 minutes ago, Rockable said:
You have to remove the plug and screw a grease fitting into it. I dont know the size of the tapped hole but it is small. Probably 1/16 npt. Then, you can use standard grease gun to do it.
I believe that's your slip spline
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30 minutes ago, jframe said:
Not to drift, but my 65 driver's glass seems to be not adjusted high enough at the rear of the glass. Did the old dollar bill trick after I put in new weatherstripping, and it's much easier to slide the bill at the back edge of the glass, and it gets progressively tighter as you go towards the front. Where is the adjustment in that above picture for that sort of thing?
It's might be that your front is too high. My opinion if you have it up and into the weather strip and it sounds like you do, I would let it be and the high side (front) of the glass may indent the foam of the weatherstripping a little. This should give a bit more tension in the back where you are focusing
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Just found these: Here's the old front foam going into the rear seat skins
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Bernie I have a huge roll of cotton batting you can have enough for the job for shipping when the time comes. You're not to far from me it's shouldn't be a big bill. Maybe burlap too. I really stuff then for extra support.
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38 minutes ago, 60FlatTop said:
Did you find a significant difference between the front and rear cushions?
I've used the old front foams transferred to the rear. That's when we only had the front buns available. Minor shaving with a cheese grater and it worked fine
The funny thing is the opgi listing says 2 sets for front seats and one for the rear. The picture shows two sets of buckets, though.
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11 hours ago, EmTee said:
Ebay?
I've had good luck with Ebay, yard sales, swap meets, occasional horse trading with other hobbyists, craigslist.. no secret suppliers, I just keep scrounging.
Like parts and tools, if paint is a BOP color and the price is right I snag it.
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If I am understanding correctly Fred, loosen up the rear guide and put the glass in the front channel. Also your vent window might need loosened and tweaked again.
If you did the rears the fronts are much easier, at least to me.
I think the body manual in this section, particularly, doesn't offer very comprehensive guidance. Finesse, patient persuasion and lots of minor adjustments get them next to perfect.
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50 year old Lacquer for a Toronado
"Florentine Gold".
It's out there, guys..
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3 hours ago, Turbinator said:
Try these :
newly chromed PM if interested in ordering a set: your color 2 stage paint. Color your specific paint brand, brand color, and paint code is optional. Plus freight.
PM sent
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42 minutes ago, NTX5467 said:
"Frugal" is when a person bought a new 2005 LeSabre Limited rather than a new Cadillac DeVille as the Buick 3800 V-6 was a 4.5quart oil change rather than the 7quart oil change of the more expensive Cadillac Northstar V-8.
Grand parents (on "fixed income") and young drivers (with little income) can appreciate the cost differences in such maintenance items.
Regards,
NTX5467
That's the excuse they use to save face. "I would of bought the DeVille but it costs too much to change the oil." The competitor for the Cadillac would of been a Town Car, maybe a Continental. The kids? I don't know.. maybe a couple year old Ford Contour or likely a cheap import.
They could be frugal, but those two couples just couldn't afford a new deVille. Car salesmen call them Time Suckers. They suck all your time away from selling your next car.
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Factory L5 Bolts 👍
Now there's a testament to the original style fuel pumps. That's 40 YRS grime minimum.
Bob, there are detailed diagrams as to how to run the fuel line properly in the Factory Service Manual. If you don't have one yet say so and I will put up a photo.
You should take a look at the rear hoses and steel fuel line also.
No the tank will not drain, you probably saw most of the gas already.
Get your kit from: Then and Now in Weymouth MASS
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39 minutes ago, 60FlatTop said:
Somewhat would mean that you carry less restaurant condiment packets than the confirmed frugal person?
Frugal is when someone takes their watch battery out at night.
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1 hour ago, 60FlatTop said:
The first generation Rivieras that made it past 1970 were in good condition and went into the hands of "keepers". I have owned mine for 45 years now. They are good, solid, reliable, undemanding cars. Very easy to keep and always ready to go. From the 1980s to the turn of the century they were not commonly listed for sale in the hobby market.
The owners knew and appreciated them but the old cranks of the hobby brain collective don't usually get a glimmer of recognition for anything less that 60 years old. And 60ish is where they are now.
Hidden headlights seem to excite a lot of people but shortly after I bought my Riviera Hondas had hidden lights, never impressed me much. Four round bulbs exposed is a real rarity on the road today.
Regular people don't know much about them. For forty years I have been telling people I own a '64 and most ask "Is that the one with a boat tail?" Must be the reality media bringing them up to speed.
Bernie, very true. The only aspect that leaves me scratching my head:
Endless "My mother had one of those but with the 454". Or "I had one of those. What year is it? "
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2 hours ago, Turbinator said:
Not a bad idea. You could find them and buy them low and sell a tiny bit higher. Everyone comes out a winner.
please a 47-49 Caddy Series 62 in great shape. I’d buy it at the fair price.
Put me to work 💸 💵 💲 🤑
Send your retainer fee to Mully Motors
"Buy low and sell a tiny bit higher".. That's our motto 🤣
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They can't take mine.
It's an emotional support animal.
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Here's a corresponding head. The big hole is coolant. Small hole is oil feed for rocker. The dowels only let the gasket go on one way.
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I must have a horseshoe up my arse. I have no problem finding any, including 65's.. master of fact, that keep finding me
Maybe I should start a car locator service 🤠
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5 minutes ago, BulldogDriver said:
Gungeey is this your car, Jeff’s, or are you helping him out?
I had photos of when I did some work on mine awhile ago and would have to dig the photos up. The replacement tanks from James at BestOfferCounts are quite good, I have one sitting on the shelf as mine was still like new and didn’t use it. Compared them and the new one should sit right in place. There are indents in the bottom of the trunk sheet metal that index the the top of the tank so it cant shift once in place and secured by the straps. Might be a good thing to make sure you can feel the placement before trying to tighten ing it down. Maybe the wire is getting trapped under the indent.
As I remember the wire went towards the rear of the car to connect to the one coming from the body. I do remember a cover piece that I remade a rubber piece to replace mine now that it has been posted.
BestOfferCounts had the rubber cover that goes over the fill tube at on time in case that has gone bad.
Ray
Ray:Sorry, I messed up the names I was talking to Jeff
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Ray something is amiss there is an air gap between the trunk floor and the tank The tank goes in only one spot properly, there's an indent in the tank that couples with two braces in the same area as the straps.
As a side note, I ground the sender with the trunk subframe (not thru the floor). There's a nice steel brace just below the fuller neck
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2 hours ago, TKRIV said:
Hi Folks
I have a 425 with an AFB on top. Works great except when taking hard right turns
like doing a U-Turn that the engine RPM drops away and sometimes stops.
Will start back up no problems.
Sometimes the RPM will drop on hard left turns but not shutdown.
i have checked the float levels on both sides which are at factory specs.
Any suggestions?
Tom K
I had the same problem years ago. It was a 3925. The baffle in one of the bowls was not pressed in all the way.
Mine stalled on left hand turns 🤣
Also, your dashpot comes to mind
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11 hours ago, Craig Balzer said:
Turbinator
Does this trunk kit apply to all 3 years of GEN 1 Riviera's??
Craig (with a 65 Riviera Gran Sport)
Craig yes 63/4/5=all the same
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65 RIV RADIATOR
in Buick Riviera
Posted
R and R (Drain/hoses/trans lines)= 1/2hr+ 1/2 hr= 100@ 100hr labor
Recore 1.5 hrs = 150
Core =300 minimum
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TOTAL 550
That's dirt cheap. I paid 800 prepanic. No R&R. USA made Maine Radiator