Jolly_John

Hi, Jeff. What depth is your ruler reading on the 90 series hubcap photo? Can't quite tell. I will double check a couple of the caps I have. Perhaps I gave up too soon. Best, John

Hey, kaycee....you certainly did help. Thank you for taking the time to reseach and help. I appreciate it. Best, John

Thanks much for the info, Dan. Best, John

Hi, Gang. Could someone give me information about 1963 Buick Riviera exhaust manifold (left and right side) interchange? I don't think this 1963 application goes any newer....but I thought it might go older. Thanks. John

Hi, Gang. Could someone give me information about 1963 Riviera exhaust manifold (left and right side) interchange? I don't think this 1963 application goes any newer....but I thought it might go older. Thanks. John

Hi, Gang. Here is THE source for all of the 1930's instrument, radio and clock glass reproductions. Lots of other interesting items, too. Best, John in Wisonsin Contact Scott Young at: Classic Car Restoration - Dash Glass, Car Dash Restoration

Bob's Automobilia in CA offers a rebuilding service for your distributor's vac. advance unit. John

Hi, Tim. Contact Scott Young at this link below. He makes an excellent quality reproduction of the '38 Buick instrument glass. All the details are on his website. John in Wisconsin Classic Car Restoration - Dash Glass, Car Dash Restoration

Hi. Check your Private Messages. I have a correct muffler available. John

Hi, Jeff. It sounds like things are moving along nicely on your '39. Here is a photo posted awhile back by one of our "down under" Buick friends. It clearly shows the difference between the two '39 Buick jacks. See you in Ames. Best, John

The brake light switch on the '55 Chrysler Windsor screws into the master cylinder, towards the end. You certainly should have seen it, when doing the rebuild. John

Hi, Jayson. I Googled your transmission number and the words " filter check valve", and this listing for a filter kit came up: #54010D Filter, 325-4L 1982-85 Updated filter has the check valve in it.. Common brand - SPX So, it appears your tranny shop wasn't giving you a line of bs. I guess I would wonder why you're still getting the cold delayed engagement if they put in one of the filters with the built-in check valve. Good luck. John

Thank you very much for the help, Gene. Best, John

Hi. I have two DIFFERENT power antenna switches for 1963-65 Riviera. Could someone please help me with the year(s) of application of each? You'll notice the power antenna switch on the left has a black finish on the housing, and a much shorter activation arm....while the switch on the right has a silver housing finish and a long activation arm. Thanks in advance for any help. John

Thanks for the info to date, guys. I was not aware Lars has been on this board. I did edit his email address in the first post to protect him from spammers.....good suggestion. John

Hi, Gang. I have a Buick buddy in Chile who is restoring a 1939 Buick Special coupe, model 46S. He has everything FINALLY done except the interior. If you live in the U.S., you can only imagine the task he has had in bringing what was a Buick basket case back to life. I admire him for that. This gentleman, named Lars, has already purchased correct material from the U.S. to have his interior done locally in Chile. He now could really use some sample photos of a stock 1939 46S cloth interior. Perhaps a door panel shot, a couple of front seat photos, a photo of the back side of the front seat, and then some rear interior photos of the coupe. ANYTHING visual would be a great help to Lars. I mentioned to him that I would post here, to see if some of the board members could help him. Please email any photos direct to Lars in Chile this email address. Be sure to add .cl at the end of this address, so it goes through: pegalpon@ajbroom You'll be doing a fellow old Buick lover a wonderful favor. Thanks. John in Wisconsin

Hi, Tom. It looks like the windshield has now been sold. I'm awaiting payment at this time. Will get back to you, if anything changes. Thanks for checking in. Best, John

Hi, Ed. I agree with your comments about the danger a small screwdriver blade could pose to the windshield glass. However, the use of the screwdriver, as described above, is limited strictly to releasing the mirror itself from the glued, metal mounting tab. After the mirror is out of the way, the procedure suggests using the single edge razor scraper to start the tab removal process, etc., etc. By the way, I want to thank you for the dental floss tip you mentioned above. I saw it in one of your previous posting some months back....tried your suggestion when removing a body emblem...and it worked great. So, thanks! John

Thanks for the inquiry, Jeff. Sorry, but the '38 Buick cap was sold a couple of days ago. John

Hey, Tom, a great idea....it will also be fun to see if the guys (and ladies) on this board can resist posting some smart a--ed replies!!! John

Hi, Jayson. I have removed them in the past, using the following instructions I found on the internet. The big thing to remember is to "go slow". Best, John The button that holds the rear view mirror to your windshield is glued to your windshield with a special form of epoxy that is super-strong. There's a good reason for this, of course. The mirror button must be able to withstand extreme temperature variations.This makes removing the button a slow process, but, with care, one that any enthusiast can accomplish. Things You'll Need: Tiny slot screwdriver Razor blade utility knife And, maybe a flat-bladed paint scraper Step 1. Remove the rear view mirror. Insert a tiny flat-bladed screwdriver into the slot at the base of the mirror button and push upward gently until you feel the internal locking mechanism open. Wiggle the mirror slightly and pull up on it. Be firm but gentle as it is possible to crack a windshield using too much pressure. Step 2. Work your razor-blade utility knife gently around the edges of the button, cutting into the adhesive slowly. Go around the button at least three times, cutting slightly deeper with each pass. Step 3. Insert the blade of your flat-bladed paint scraper under the edge of the button, between the button and the glass and gently pry up on the button. Be firm but gentle. Move your paint scraper around the edges of the button, prying from as many different angles as you can. Step 4. Continue working your knife around the edges of the button if the button fails to pop off following Step 3. Cut deeper and deeper into the epoxy with each pass of the knife around the button. Step 5. Insert the paint scraper under the edge of the button again and gently twist. Move the scraper around the edges of the button, prying from different directions. Be patient and the button will eventually pop off. Step 6. Scrape any residual glue off your windshield with your razor-blade utility knife, being careful not to scratch the glass with the tip of the blade.

The seller's area code looks like a southern Illinois location, Beaver. John

Hi, Mike. I sent you a private message. John

No, Paul....I can't believe you came across some Buick goodies you forgot you had!!! Heck, this has never happened to me (yeah, right). Wish I could use one or more of your "uncovered" items....good prices. Best, John in Wisconsin

Hi, Dave. The Uni-Points set has been spoken for, but the payment has not arrived yet. I'll let you know, if this set becomes available again. Thanks. John