29 Chandler
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Posts posted by 29 Chandler
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1 hour ago, Willy said:
Just noticed, someone’s selling a 1934 Chandler for $12k
Pretty rare car since they stopped production in 1929 🙃
Do you have a link you can post?
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Long overdue on providing an update on this project. This week my new custom made sprockets and silent chains arrived from Ramsey Products in North Carolina. They shipped them to a local outlet that set the final price. Art at Discount Bearing Co. in Sun Valley CA was a pleasure to deal with. If any of you need help finding bearings, belts, chains, pulleys or sprockets I can highly recommend him for his customer service.
Today I set the engine to TDC so I could confirm that the "prick punch marks" aligned on the cam and crank shaft sprockets as outlined in my parts guide. This will help the machine shop properly locate the keyway location when the bores are cut on the camshaft and crank sprockets. This was one step I did not ask Ramsey to do on the new sprockets. I'll work with a local shop to make sure this is done correctly. Overall I am very impressed with the quality of the new sprockets and chains. Ramsey did a very complete job of copying the old sprockets and machining the new ones to match. I installed the only sprockets I can do for now until the rest of the machine work is done. The new sprockets fit exactly as the originals did and will mesh correctly with the new chains.
One question for the experts out there. The crankshaft has a key for each of the two sprockets that mount on the shaft. (See the two new sprockets on the right side of the picture.) There is no taper on the shaft, rather the outer sprocket was fixed to the crankshaft with a 1/4" steel dowel. I could not see this dowel when I was removing the sprocket with the puller. After a small amount of effort of the puller this dowel snapped into three neat pieces and then the sprocket easily cam off the shaft. On both ends the dowel was peened flush with the sprocket. Is this still the best method to secure the sprocket to the shaft? If so what type of metal should the dowel be made off?
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Just to close out this topic my "new" Snap on compression gauge arrived this week, it even came with a bag of extra valves. I tested it on the chainsaw I am rebuilding on the workbench right now and saw 160 lbs on the gauge vs. 30 lbs from the gauge I purchased new as a teenager in the 80's.
Thanks for steering me in the right direction.
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Thanks guys. There is now one less Snap On Compression Gauge kit on eBay 🙂
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Looking for some recommendations on a decent engine compression gauge kit. I work on cars from 1914 to 2008 and some times small engines. I have no faith in my cheap compression gauge that I bought 40 years ago as a teenager. Looking at Amazon I see so many brands that I don't recognize.
Since I am servicing a wide range of engines looking for a kit that adapts to the different plug sizes as needed.
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Bill not sure what type of chain you have in the Pontiac. I am in the process of replacing the sprockets and chains (3 of them) on our 1914 Chandler. I took my chains to EGGE and while they were not able to help they did suggest Ramsey Products which in the end who I ordered new custom machined sprockets from and new chains to match. They might be able to help:
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Most of what is known about Chandler and Cleveland cars is in this book that John put together for all of us to enjoy a few years back.
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Update
After talking with Ramsey about their quote they found another distributor local to me that will handle the sale and took less of a markup. I was extremely happy that Ramsey understood that I am just trying to get my car back on the road and were willing to reach out to some of their other customers to find one who would be more sympathetic to our cause.
Deposit has been sent to have the sprockets made and chains cut to length. My original chains and sprockets arrived back home this week. This was a big relief as there are only three set of these sprockets known and I have not seen the others to know if Chandler did indeed use the same sets in these two cars. It's also possible that some Lozier cars used the same sprockets, time will tell.
I have received copies of the digital drawings that Ramsey made to review and approve. I'll be reviewing all of the measurements from the drawings against my original parts before approving the build of new parts. As mentioned before the keyways on the two 1/2" sprockets that drive the cam will be cut locally to insure the engine stays in time with original specs.
If all goes well new parts will be delivered at the end of June.
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Ed not sure if I was clear on my last post. I would not be having Ramsey cut the key way on the 1/2” sprockets where the timing of the engine is a concern. I plan to have that done locally.
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35 minutes ago, Oldtech said:
You mean like half an inch??
Yes
seemed like a lot to me
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Update
We can have the sprockets made and the chains cut to fit and have them delivered this summer. Anything can be done with enough money and experience. For the full set we are looking at about $6k 😳
But without them the engine will not be happy.
The one challenge I have is the sprockets for the crank and cam need to have their key way cut to maintain the correct alignment between the two. The chain manufacturer said they could do this but could only guarantee +\- 0.5”. I did not feel this was good enough and asked them to leave the bores blank.
At this point I think we have a path forward but am open to your feedback before we approve the quote.
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9 hours ago, Gary_Ash said:
Yes, white #1 felt is the best choice, #2 also good, just not white. Back in the bad old days, there used to be SAE-designated standard felt washer sizes which made it easier to design parts and get replacement seals. The old Victor and National Oil seal catalogs showed them, may still appear in some Timken catalogs. Here are a few from a 1969 Victor catalog:
If you Google the Victor numbers, you may find current cross reference numbers and also modern replacements that fit where the felts went.
I made some rear axle seals from #1 felt sheet. I used short pieces of steel exhaust tubing adapters, sharpened the edge, and used a small press to cut them. Note there was a steel block under the plywood when I cut them and a steel/iron block on top of the tube to press evenly.
Thank you Gary!! Using your chart I was able to cross reference to a modern part number and find one in stock.
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1 hour ago, hook said:
Grade 7 is too soft and fluffy. You should use grade 1 or at least 2. Attached is the drawing for Franklin automobile seals. As you can see the felt they used for your application is No. 1. If you by a piece of no. 1 felt from McMaster Carr you will see, you did the right thing. Hope this helps. Be sure to oil it good so you won't burn it up as soon as you start up the engine.
Thank you Hook just the information I needed.
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I am trying to choose the correct grade of felt to replace the felt washer that is sandwiched in my timing chain cover. From what I see on McMaster Carr's website they offer sheets from grade F1 (hardest) to F7 (softest). The purpose of this particular seal is to ride around the crankshaft and keep the oil behind the timing chain cover.
I am not familiar with the different grades of Felt. Anyone have any experience here and can provide some guidence? Right now I am leaning towards the F7 grade as it will need to absorb and retain oil to do its job. My 1914 Chandler will not be running at any high RPMs so I figure the softer grade will still do its job.
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Drove up to Paso Robles yesterday to drop off our 1914 Chandler radiator to have the core replaced and fix properly at The Brassworks. Met with the owner Lee and he was very friendly and helpful, even coming in on the weekend so my wife and I could make a day trip out of it. From our brief tour of his shop I would say we did the right thing and have the radiator in very capable hands now. Hope to have it back to be repainted before the fall.
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On 3/9/2023 at 2:55 PM, Urbapapa said:
It's a 6.
The seller has received an offer of just over $20,000 which I think is quite high considering the condition and the missing parts, so we'll see...
I agree, the offer the seller has does not take into account all of the work the new owner will go through to find all of the missing parts.
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10 hours ago, Dandy Dave said:
My 1915 Buick, along with all the other early drive shaft driven Buick's, have a knock while driving. It is caused by the square drive that connects the transmission to the universals and drive shaft. It is because the universal joint is at an angle and not square to the torque tube. It is the way it was designed so there's no changing it. When you realize what it is it just becomes part of the harmonics of the car. Could this be what you are hearing?
Unfortunately no because I can hear it when the car is not moving.
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12 hours ago, mikewest said:
Can you PLAY A TUNE?? In other words, when you tip into the throttle it will rattle but when you let up the noise is gone?? If so it wounds like wrist pin rattle. Of coarse it would help to hear the noise... is it a rattle or a hard rapping??
No rattle that I remember, just a bit of pounding under load. I did take a video when the car was still running but the sound is not very distinct
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1 hour ago, Lozierman said:
Chris, Great idea to have three sets made. I hope you don't try to sell me an inferior set. Of course seeing as there are only two 1914 Model 15 Chandlers left, there is a very limited market! Please keep us(me) posted on this project.
I would assume your second Chandler would use the same chains and sprockets. Have checked the condition of them? I’m sure the car you bought from Harold did d not have its chains replaced either.
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Update
All the sprockets are now off to be copied to match the new chains that Ramsey is going to make.
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I finally caught a break. The large chain for the Cam is standard (60 degree) so at least I will not need to replace two of the sprockets.
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Agreed Ed. I have expressed my desires to the factory that the original parts remain in a condition that they can go back on the car if needed.
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8 hours ago, Urbapapa said:
VIN number: 32447
Good that confirms it is a 1928 Model 31A. These days the Roadster Rumble Seat model is pretty rare, most surviving Chandler Cars are Touring cars or Sedans. That being said there are a lot of details missing from the car and will take a lot to restore it. Spare parts are few and far between. Which really means you should be able to negotiate a favorable price. Keep us posted.
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Are you able to share the VIN number on the car if it still has one?
1922 Chandler is getting a new paint job! Use the very best modern paint?
in General Discussion
Posted
Peter I see both sides of the story on this one. I’m in the camp of single stage paint for a car as old as ours. But then your painter may know something I don’t. I know the advantage of clear coat is it’s UV protection and that is important for our modern cars that are driven every day, but if you are going to enjoy your Chandler like we do it will be in the garage most of the time. I vote for single stage, we did that recently on our 1967 MGB GT and it looks period correct.