29 Chandler
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Posts posted by 29 Chandler
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44 minutes ago, mechanician said:
If there were no other issues, I would put it back together and run it. The likelihood of having three separate, otherwise asymptomatic leaks in two separate monolithic jugs is almost zero.
If you chase a problem that isn't there, you will find it.
Agreed. I just finished cleaning the valves and doing a fresh lapping job on all of them with particular attention to those that were shiny. Once I get new valve springs I should be ready to go. the Folks at Then And Now Automotive are looking to see if they have a match in stock, otherwise we will probably have some made.
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1914 Chandler
About 16 mpg as was stated back when the car was new. Even back then this was a big selling point. On today's rubber I can only hope to see 7,000 miles on my tires.
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Guys I am really thankful for your input and sharing your experience. The engine in question has new (modern one piece) valves replaced by me in 2019. At that time I found one that was cracked and discovered they were the original two piece valves and replaced them all. At the time I chose not to replace the springs as they all looked good. The engine, as best I can tell based on the odometer and the history that has come with the car, has about 17k miles on it. The pistons are original and I suspect the rings are too, though they (rings) may have been replaced in the 60's when the car was last restored.
Before tearing into this engine, this was a very smooth running engine. I hope that when I am done she'll be ready for some more tours.
I think maybe since I have the valves all free I'll do some light lapping on them as I hope not to disturb them again for a while. I also will do a complete compression check before I am done.
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8 hours ago, Oldtech said:
My first idea was a coolant leak - seepage from head gasket maybe? but usually both valves would be clean so... I dunno.
Except in this case the engine is an L- head so there is no traditional head gasket.
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Thanks Grimy!
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I should note the measurements are of 110 year old springs.
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I am trying to locate new valve springs for my 1914 Chandler. Any recommendations for a supplier?
Free height of the springs is 4.75"
OD= 1.313"
Pressure at 3" is about 40 lbs
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I am familiar with how to read a spark plug based on the color and condition of the electrode. I am in the process of replacing the valve springs on our 1914 Chandler Light Weight Six and have all of the valves out now. I was surprised to fine three of the (exhaust) valves so clean and shiny. The exhaust valves are the odd numbered valves in the picture below. Can you help me explain why these three stand out so much from the rest? Note the #5 exhaust valve is next to the intake valve spring that broke on me (reason for replacing the valve springs at this time).
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28 minutes ago, alsancle said:
For decades, Restorers would replace their original tags with shiny new ones. I think it’s a mistake. Keep the original tags. Just clean them up as best you can.
I agree, it’s part of the car’s history that I like to preserve and keep in place.
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1 minute ago, PWN said:
Does this mean your chains were not the issue?
I would say the chains were worn out but were not the cause of the change in performance that we noticed about a year ago when we were touring.
Can’t wait to see how she runs with new chains and new springs.
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I always liked this ad and wound up using it in our club roster a couple of years. I covered the space below the image with a list of our club officers.
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Anyone replace their valve springs yet? I found a broken spring on intake #3 yesterday so I am starting to research what I can replace them with.
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Well I think the mystery that started this thread over a year ago has finally be found. Today while rotating the engine and checking the timing marks on the sprockets, magneto, and the position of the valves on #1 I came upon something that I should have noticed when I first took off the valve cover. The valve spring on the #3 intake is broken! I should replaced the springs four years ago when I installed new valves. I cannot understand now while I did not do that at the time.
Hopefully finding new springs will not be an issue.
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6 hours ago, Lozierman said:
While searching for Lozier parts many years ago I came across an ad in Hemmings that stated the seller had a large 6-cylinder T head motor for sale. I immediately contacted the seller, and he described it as best he could over the phone, (pre-internet days). I determined it wasn't a Lozier motor, but I decided it might work until I found the correct motor. I had a Lozier frame and almost the rest of a chassis along with a Briarcliff body. I sent him a check and he sent me photos. When the photos arrived, I knew it wasn't a Lozier motor, but I wanted it anyway. He crated it and sent it to me. He lived in Maine, and I live in Washington State.
I had it for many years and wasn't able to identify it as it had no marking except some cast numbers including a serial number. Many items were nickel plated. I searched old copies of HCCA, the AACA and spent many hours in the main library checking out bound copies of Horseless Age, Motor, etc. Never found it in any of the publications. Finally, a local guy heard about it and he came to see it. He owned an Olds Autocrat and identified it as an Olds Limited motor.
I was later contacted by a collector who had come to Seattle on a business trip. He came to see it and was overwhelmed to find it was indeed a motor for an Olds Limited. He wanted to buy it as he had the rest of an Olds Limited chassis and even had the casting of a body. He said if he could purchase the motor, he could complete the 7th known Limited. He already had two, so I assumed he knew what he was talking about. I decided he needed it more than I did as I would not want to see my motor misused.
Last I heard he was trying to sell his Limited project. I don't know if it is now one of those shown in these posts.
I never did find the Lozier motor I needed, but I did find a few others during my searches. These include a motor for a 1907 Thomas Detroit and a 1911 Pierce Arrow 48. Both of these found homes that resulted in complete cars. I eventually traded all of my Lozier parts for a complete, original 1913 Lozier Montclair touring.
What a great story! I am glad you finally fed your thirst for a complete running Lozier and the Limited engine found its proper home.
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Here's an Oldsmobile factory photo I have of what I think is a 1911 Oldsmobile Limited. I am able to blow up the image and clearly see the tire size of 42 x 4 1/2"
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1 hour ago, PWN said:
I am going to have some wiring questions for you soon. Namely how the metal clad headlight and generator cables are grounded. I also have a note about a ground near the spark and gas controls at the base of the steering column. I get a list together, I am rewiring and have a few lose ends. I think I am going to reuse all the wire connectors and lugs, all being soldered will be easy.
You got it. I’ll provide whatever support I can.
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I love seeing these pictures and comparing them to my 1914 with the same drivetrain.
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45 minutes ago, erichill said:
When I disasembled my 1919 Chandler there was a very worn strip all the way across the radiator bottom. Not reusable so I plan on using thick rubber washers with fender washers. Suggestion. One of my studs was very corroded from a radiator leak. I was afraid of breaking the stud so carefully used heat to remove the rusted nut. When I get my radiator back I am thinking I will use antisieze and drill and cotter-pin the studs.
Sounds like you still have the original Radiator Cushioning Strip on your car.
I went ahead and ordered this 1” x 1/4” rubber for mine
cut it to 14” and knocked some holes out for the studs and it’s ready to go.
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Here’s a picture of the Limited at the Reno National Automotive Museum and the 1910 painting that was commissioned by Olds
I know there is another 1911 Limited in a private collection in Southern CA that some of us got to see today but it was not out for display.
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1 hour ago, Mike "Hubbie" Stearns said:
Ford 8N tractors are the same. Google ford 8N and look for lower radiator mounts. I just ordered some for my wife’s tractor. Mike
Thanks for that info Mike. I was thinking of buying a strip of 1/4" thick solid rubber to lay down under the radiator above the front cross member. This way there would be support all across the bottom of the radiator. And then go with the flat washers and castle nut with cotter pins below the cross member.
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I found in my Chandler parts list a part called "Radiator Cushion Strap", could be ordered from the factory for just 50 cents. Sadly there is not drawing of the part or assembly to refer to. I expect there was just one piece of this strap across the entire bottom of the radiator where it comes into contact with the frame.
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26 minutes ago, wmsue said:
My 28 Willys and 31 Willys are exactly the same. I used a piece of rubber sidewall from an old tire to fashion a new cushion washer and originally there was a large fender type washer used before the lock washer and nut..
Bill
Hi Bill,
That is exactly what was used by the previous owner of our car. Maybe I'll just re-use them.
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For those of you with a car from the teens or 20's I am curious how your radiator is mounted to the frame. My 1914 Chandler has two 9/16" studs on the bottom of the radiator shell that project down to the frame. When I removed the radiator there were two rather crude pieces of rubber to act as a washer between the frame and the radiator. I plan to replace these rubber pieces with something better. What do you suggest? The radiator itself is rather heavy.
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48 minutes ago, DFeeney said:
I am sure this was expensive, However it is money well spent. Who wants to loose a engine or have trouble on the road over radiator problems. One less thing to worry about.
It was, but on the upside it only needs to be done every 110 years! 😃 And if I don't do it right now our son will need to re-do it later.
My 2008 F150 is on it's third radiator.
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1914 L-head Rod Knock or timing chain noise?
in Technical
Posted
Made some good progress on the car yesterday. Installed the timing chain cover, fan, and carefully installed the radiator. If I did not have to replace the valve springs she would be about ready to fire up.