rocketraider

Lord, Biggy, you don't know how much better off you are by not being able to access the electronic auction... rarely a week goes by I'm not mailing payment for something. But I sure have gotten some good stuff off it! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

I always used that spray-on copper gasket stuff on the port area just in case the sealing surfaces weren't true, but the ridges in the gasket ought to seal it ok without it. Torque sequence should have been from center bolts outward in a circular pattern, but as long as you got everything equal it should be fine. If not, it will let you know it quickly with a bigass vacuum leak.

Sparky!! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" /> Now if we could just get him to tackle 4GCs...

Randall, there's no specific dash lamp replacement instructions in the 69 CSM, but it looks like the easiest way may be to remove the instrument cluster since it comes out from the front. There's 8 #194 lamps in the cluster, and 1 #1895 in the heater control. The clock uses 2 #1816. To do this, disconnect battery (-), then remove the pad and bezel assembly from around the instruments. CSM says remove 6 attaching screws and pull top of pad rearward slightly, then lift up and remove. To remove the instrument cluster housing after removing the bezel: 1. Disconnect printed circuit connector. 2. Disconnect speedometer cable by depressing retaining spring and pulling away from cluster. (These steps may be easier after you pull the cluster out from the dash slightly; if not, you'll have to go behind the dash and do it. A cruise control car will make the cable disconnect easy since you can disconnect it at the regulator and get some working room.) 3. Remove three screws attaching cluster housing to instrument panel and remove cluster. Then you can replace all the lamps. I'd go for #168 bulbs as they are a little brighter than 194s. I don't know if you can get to the heater control lamp from the top with cluster out, but it couldn't be any worse than laying on your back under the dash. While you've gone to all that trouble, why not pull the clock and have it serviced? Sometimes a shot of WD40 is all one needs to get it ticking again.

S is Jade Gold, a dark, almost black metallic green. 1 is a white convertible top. From 1968 Color & Fabric Album.

That all goes back to people not understanding QuadraJets. They're a fine carb and no more complex than an AFB or Holley, there just isn't much aftermarket tuning support for them. Get a competent carb guy to go thru yours, or try an Edelbrock or Holley OEM-style replacement Q-Jet. They're only made in Chevy style side fuel inlet, but you can get a repop 66-7 Olds fuel line that will adapt it to your car. You also need to remember that Oldsmobiles like to run a bit lean, and a Holley certainly isn't going to allow for that. Stick with a QuadraJet. You won't regret it. And a 450 cfm carb is WAAAAY too small for a 350. QuadraJets were rated for 735 cfm and some early 70s big-block cars had 800 cfm versions.

Scott, I don't think anyone is reproducing the Starfoam headliner material and I have often wondered why. The 62 Starfire guys go crazy because of that too. It's even awkward to try installing a vinyl or cloth headliner because there's no bows to attach it to in a Starfoam car- you'd have to get them from a flat-topped Chevy or Pontiac and use a headliner kit for those I guess. In lieu of the Starfoam I think the most appropriate h/l fabric might be the "Star" pattern vinyl that GM used on many cars in the early 60s.

Doesn't share anything with a Chevrolet engine. 330 were made 1964-67 and were respectable little engines, capable of impressive output. They were enlarged to 350 cid in 1968 to follow the General's trend- Chevy had a new 350, and the others had 330 (Olds), 340 (Buick), and 326 (Pontiac) engines, and no way were they going to allow lowly Chevrolet to have a bigger small-displacement engine. So, out came the boring bars, and next thing they all had 350s. The reason there isn't anything much 330-specific out there is due to the fact it is considered an obsolete engine. However, everything except pistons interchanges with the other Olds small-blocks, and some stuff will interchange with the 400/425/455 engine family. As long as it will tolerate available gasoline, you won't have many issues with it. The 320 horse engine was made for 100+ octane gasoline which was common and cheap when these engines were built. BTW, all 330 had forged cranks if that eases your mind any.

They are good and will always try to make things right if a part isn't as described (and 99% of the time it is). I've said it before. Fusick and the other Olds-specific vendors are the guys spending the bucks to reproduce the parts you need. Support them. Tooling ain't cheap. Sometimes they luck up and find the original GM tooling, but most times they have to start from scratch. I think you'll be happy with yer Foosick brake shoes. I was. Of course, 1st series Toronado do not have the best brakes in the world to begin with... <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />

The courtesy lamp lenses are available reproduction. Steering wheel may be an issue esp if it is a tilt-telescopic in any color except black. The 67 is a very popular Ninety Eight- at one time there were five in Mid Atlantic Olds Club alone, but I think the herd has thinned a bit. The top hydraulics can use power steering fluid, trans fluid or brake fluid. The fill and bleed procedure should be on your CD-ROM manuals; if not, let us know and we'll walk you thru it. Color?

Sky, where do you find Glass Wax now? Didn't think they made it anymore, I haven't seen that pink can in a while. It was way easier to clean inside windshield surfaces with it than using Windex etc. Didn't see streaks on a cool humid morning either.

The obvious question here is, was the car doing this before the reman carb was installed? If it wasn't, then odds are the carb is at fault. Just because it was rebuilt doesn't mean it's any good. Seen it many times. Also check the fuel filter. If it's installed backwards you'll get this problem. Here's a long shot, but the vacuum advance could be bad, or the centrifugal advance weights in the distributor could be sticking or a spring broken.

I have an NOS front bumper rub strip p/n 554769. It was bought as a 1973 Delta rear several years ago, but wasn't what seller claimed. I have $65 in it and will sell it for that plus shipping if you're interested.

Can't believe it's near midnight Eastern time and no one has mentioned Memorial Day. Know there's some vets roaming these forums too. For all of you- Thanks, and especially to those who paid the highest price. Local boy bought the farm in the Iraq mess, and the morning paper's lead story had a pic of the monument company sandblasting his name into the local War Memorial wall.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Skyking ~ It ain't spaceships, it's all them holes we been punching in the sky for the past 50 years with them there rockets that done caused all the weather changes. Probly causes thet global warmin too. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" /> </div></div> Bullfeathers. Airboddy knows we done it with thet R12 Freezone stuff that kept us cool driving in the summertime. All them edjykated folks in Warshington says so. (cue up Dave@Moon ) Besides- Oldsmobile Rockets is fast, but even <span style="font-weight: bold">I</span> doubt they can get much past the stratosphere without a JATO <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> !

4 inches of rain here in the Southside overnight, and thunderboomers forecast for later today, so I have 2 yards to cut before all that happens. Car probably won't get washed, nor much else that needs to be done. I took vacation last week, and I feel like I have thrown away 40 hours of it <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" />. 14 days off total and counting today (sunny right now anyway) I had four good days where I could get out and do something. So much for painting the porch rails or putting the Hurst (which has to come out of its narrow garage to work inside it) back together. I hope Guvnah Warner is convinced his drought is over.

Nothing wrong with that. As far as another acquisition, I'm fighting the urge to go buy a 71 ElCamino right now. A clean original 6 cyl 3-speed car-truck, which is mighty appealing to me because I do not want one that has been tricked up or has had a crate 350 stuffed into it. And 95% of all ElCaminos you find have been modified to suit popular taste- red, Chevy rallys, engine chrome on a "350 fo' bolt main", all the stuff the masses find appealing. And for what this guy wants for the truck, somebody is gonna buy it and do just that to it. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

They surface on e-bay from time to time, and seems like I've seen one in the last week or so. You could use from 61-64, just the 63-4 have a different timing cover and water pump. Somebody had pulled a rebuilt and detailed 394/SJ out of a 62 S88 a few weeks back and had stuck a Chevy 350 <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" /> in it. Everybody thinks you gotta have a crate 350 for reliability these days. Phooey.

Well- saw the car on the electronic auction, and there's another guy with taillight housings, and another with a pair of decent exhaust tips. I must remember that I have too many cars now and cannot take proper care of what I have... <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />

A Royal Town and Country wagon- wow- <span style="font-style: italic">Standard Catalog</span> says 599 built, with another 100 plain steel body wagons built later in the year. Peter, I think you ought to load that truckster up and go on tour! <span style="font-weight: bold">Totally </span> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />!

1995. I remember it well. I was show chairman and feel like I aged 10 years during the course of that show. Local group rumbles about doing another one every so often. I say, you will have to find another show chairman, and that quiets it for a while. But we accomplished what we set out to do, which was bring the Olds Nationals to the Southeast for the first time. It was a good show and still talked about as one of the best Nats ever with a swap meet that was second only to the Centennial. I think they were expecting Mayberry and outhouses, and we stick them in the Four Seasons next to one of the biggest malls in the country.

Progoofoff- there's rumour of a BOP show in Raleigh Sept 20 hosted by Tarheel Tigers Chapter of the GTO Association. Talked to a couple of those guys at the Crown Pontiac show last Saturday (I was riding shotgun in a 66 Bonneville Brougham after my buddy's 64 GP lost its brake booster, original plan was for both cars to be there but anyway it RAINED <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />). www.tarheeltigers.org for info, though they said it wasn't on the website yet. I've been after Mid Atlantic Olds Club to host one in Greensboro or Charlotte which would space them out about every 200 miles or so along I-40 from Nashville to Knoxville to Raleigh. What do you NC Buick guys think about doing that?

You'll come out cheaper and get a better job by replacing the hood and trunk lid if they're rotted thru. Being west coast, finding some rust-free sheetmetal and bumpers should be easy. 50s cars are still fairly plentiful in desert junkyards. 4439 is a Special four-door hardtop, or Riviera Sedan in Buick-speak. 55 was the first year for Buick 4dht, and the <span style="font-style: italic">Standard Catalog of American Cars</span> shows there were 66,409 Special ht built. There's some Nailhead and Dynaflow experts on this forum who can help you with them. Think there's a V8 Buick forum too, www.v8buick.com . Other reference literature? Paint chips, dealer Color and Fabric sample book (bend over and grab 'em, any 50s C&F book will be expensive), factory training manuals and service updates (Olds had Service Guilds, Pontiac had Pontiac Craftsman, dk what Buick called theirs, but someone on here does?). Also get Buick-specific vendor catalogs, a Steele Rubber catalog for your weatherstripping www.steelerubber.com , and a Kanter Auto Parts catalog for the mechanical stuff you can't get anywhere else www.kanter.com . Seth, there's a world of help out there and you'll find most old car people are willing to help if they sense you're serious about doing the car. Best of luck with this project. As you see I'm more into Olds and I'm on the other side of the country, but I'm always here for encouragement.

First thing is to join AACA or Buick Club of America and make an effort to meet some local people. They can help you find parts and reputable craftsmen to do repairs on your car that you can't do yourself. Buy some factory-issued literature for your car. You'll need a 1955 Buick shop manual at the very least. You can find 'em on e-bay or at a swap meet. Let us know where you are and we can steer you towards one close by, swap meet season is in full roar. Then enroll in an automotive technician course in your local high school or community college (you may have to have someone over 18 enroll in CC and you "tag along"). This will help you learn about cars and how they work though it'll be geared mainly toward newer cars. These programs are in business to train mechanics for dealerships and independent shops, that work mostly on newer stuff. The surface rust can be sanded off if there are no deep pits, and power tools help here otherwise you wear out your arms. Rust through can only be repaired properly by cutting out the damaged area and welding in new metal. A 1955 Buick has some substantial metal in it, so you may be able to sandblast really bad surface rust, but you need to be aware that flat sheetmetal surfaces can warp from sandblasting. Does the car run, drive and stop under its own power? If it does you're way ahead of the game. Specials also won't totally break the bank if you have to do any chrome work. But honestly- an old car can be more expensive than you counted on, so be aware of that and don't get discouraged. You need to decide where you want to take this car. Do you want a nice, fun, reliable driver or a full tilt restoration? My guess is that at 17, you'll want to restore the car as a driver and enjoy the pleasure an old car can give you. There's been a couple of guys your age on the BCA forum with 50s Buicks, though I haven't seen any posts from them in some time. Good luck and keep us posted. I always find it rewarding when a young guy gets into older cars instead of ricerockets <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />.

Steve, try Ken Reese in Winter Haven FL. I cannot find his e-mail but he's always on e-bay, search NOS Olds*. Pics with a red background are usually his stuff and it is always highest quality. That's what I always hated about those rubber stick-on bodyside moldings. They lose their grip and go wavy if they don't fall off. Most cars around here had them riveted back on. Even though they were part of Royale trim, if it were my car, they'd go. Quick.