1940_Buick

Where is this museum in Pottstown? I'd like to see it? I googled "American Tour Museum" but couldn't find it.

The trailer has been sold.

I’ve used this light weight aluminum trailer for carrying my Model T around for the past 10 years. This year I upgraded to a brand new aluminum trailer, so I don’t need this one anymore. Light weight, tandem axle, aluminum ramps. $500 (does not include the car or truck) Brad Wallace Bath, PA (610) 837-1388

Rolls are intriguing cars. I thought it would be great to own one, until a saw a professional doing a clutch on a 25-30 a couple years ago. It was like open heart surgery. Something like 40 hours labor to do it right. The front seat had to come out, so the floor could come out, so some things could be gotten at from the top. The spider web of chassis oil lines had to come out so things could be gotten at from the bottom. Then he told me what the parts cost…. But very few cars ever built look so grand and stately.

I know the Franklin mentioned. I bought a car out of the same collection it was in 6 years ago. It was a very nice original. Great HPOF candidate. I also know Bruce, and he's a good guy who will give you an honest description.

Hello gege, Welcome to the forum. Sorry to hear about the loss of your dad. The documentation you've got with the car will be interesting to a prospective buyer. When putting together the information for selling the car, the best thing to do is ask yourself "what information would be helpful to a person who's trying to decide if its worth the time and expense to make a trip to see the car in person?". The more pictures the better. If you have trouble posting them, there are folks here who will help. Also, a detailed description of what you see will help. Finally the most important thing is the price. Price is affected by 3 things: Demand, supply, and condition. Cars that are priced too high won't get any attention. In addition, about 50% of the people will pass on "best offer" ads, because they assume the seller expects too much for the car.

There are a few factors to consider. 1) The 1915 is one of the more commonly "faked" years. The quickest way to verify that it is a real 1915, is to look at the horizontal metal plate that is just above the coil box lid on the dash. If it is a real 1915 or 1916, it will be an unbroken horizontal line. If the car has a later body made to look like a 1915, there will be a half circle notch in the horizontal line. 2) Does it have an original 1915 engine? That's easy enough to verify by the serial number stamped on the block, just above the water inlet. 3) Body style. Touring cars are a little more desireable than roadsters. 4) Condition. If the car's "finished" value is $15,000 but it needs $10,000 worth of work... of course it won't be worth near $15,000. The Model T Ford Club of America's forum can be a great help. Just google "MTFCA forum". The forum's search function will provide you a virtual library of answers. If you can post pictures here, that may help us help you as well.

You may want to do some market research by looking at asking prices for Dodges from your era. You could search this forum, eBay, or Hemmings Motor News. Keep in mind, sometimes "asking prices" are pretty far off if people aren't informed. At the same time, you don't want to sell you father's car too far below market price. Condition and body style can affect price quite a bit. The 1917 Dodge isn't a particuarly valuable car, but they are an excellent car. Very durable and well designed. When you do decide to list the car for sale, include as much info as possible (condition, location, etc) as well as plenty of pictures. Most people don't botther with "best offer" ads.

Wow. A work of art.

Larry, the REO is a good car, you should enjoy driving it. If you contact the AACA Library, I'm sure they'll have a bunch of info on your car. For the more practical stuff (like how to rebuild a vacuum tank), post the questions on this forum. The 2 pieces of advice I can give you about your car are: - Resist the urge to alter it from its original design - Drive it the way it was designed to be driven. These cars were made for dirt roads, so they were not expected to cruise at 50 mph all day. They have plenty of torque, but not much of a top end. They like low RPMs. I've owned cars from all eras, but the teens & twenties cars are by far the most fun!

Just an FYI... I've got a decent "all white" 30x30 1/2 tire on eBay. Model T All White Tire 30 x 30 ½ | eBay

Not sure about the first one. Looks something like a 1921 Studebaker Big Six. The 2nd one is a Dodge, probably around 1920.

1910 1911 EMF Splitdorf Ignition Switch and Coil Box I bought this for the coil box mounting hardware, latches, and tag. So these parts are not included. The switch seems fine, and the key is included. This switch and coil box was probably used on other period cars as well. 1910 1911 EMF Splitdorf Ignition Switch and Coil Box | eBay

1910 1911 EMF Splitdorf Ignition Switch and Coil Box I bought this for the coil box mounting hardware, latches, and tag. So these parts are not included. The switch seems fine, and the key is included 1910 1911 EMF Splitdorf Ignition Switch and Coil Box | eBay

FYI... On Ebay Splitdorf Dual Coil and Switch Used in 1912 and 1913 Buick, EMF, Chalmers, and Studebaker Among Others I had this coil as a spare for my 1913 Studebaker. But the car was sold a few years ago and there’s no point to having this on the shelf. Nickel plating is in very nice condition. Switch moves nicely No cracks on the bakelite back The cardboard housing has two holes. The largest is about thumb sized. Looks like shelf damage. 1912 1913 Buick EMF Splitdorf Ignition Switch & Coil | eBay

FYI... On Ebay Splitdorf Dual Coil and Switch Used in 1912 and 1913 Buick, EMF, Chalmers, and Studebaker Among Others I had this coil as a spare for my 1913 Studebaker. But the car was sold a few years ago and there’s no point to having this on the shelf. Nickel plating is in very nice condition. Switch moves nicely No cracks on the bakelite back The cardboard housing has two holes. The largest is about thumb sized. Looks like shelf damage. 1912 1913 Buick EMF Splitdorf Ignition Switch & Coil | eBay

The EMF went to a new home in Flint Michigan today.

Thanks for the "offer" Bill. Are you going to have the 1913 Studebaker at the Brass in Berks tour next month?

Hi Bill, Thanks. The EMF is a great touring car. I hope that little Studebaker Roadster is still doing well. I'm glad it went to a home where its appreciated and preserved. I tried the video links with Google Chrome 10, FireFox 4.0, and Internet Explorer 7. They all worked OK. Maybe there's a problem with your Flash Player? Can you still view the 1913 Studebaker video on YouTube?

1911 E-M-F Standard Touring For Sale This EMF has been on Brass in Bucks and Brass in Berks tours and runs well. It’s a nice comfortable 30 hp touring car. It was featured in the January 2010 edition of Auto Restorer magazine. Click on the link below to see the issue: Auto Restorer - January 2010 - Volume 22 - Number 1 New timing gears (Floyd Jaehnert) Rebuilt water pump (new shaft and bushings) New leather cone clutch (Bob Knaak) Distributor ignition (for reliability) Original magneto included Good brakes (for the era) Tires are like new Nice brass 1911 EMF made two types of touring cars, the “fore door” that had front doors, and the “standard” which had no front doors, similar to the 1910 touring. Located in Pennsylvania, just north of Bethlehem and Allentown. 85 miles east of Hershey. Come see it in person and we’ll go for a ride. Click on this link for 53 more pictures: 1911 EMF pictures by nrimbxw - Photobucket Click on these links for some movies of the car: Price $39,500 Brad Wallace Bradwallace2000@yahoo.com 610-837-1388 Bath, PA

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I'd guess 1911 Cadillac Demi-Tonneau

If the radiator is not repairable, a cheaper method is to remove the tanks from the core, then VERY carefully cut a thin slice of the honeycomb pattern from the front of the core. Then have the tanks mounted on a modern core and the honeycomb "false front" that you've just made, fastened in front of the modern core. I've seen it done and the only way you can tell the difference is by looking at the core from inside the engine compartment. The modern core is so efficient, the honeycomb in front won't cause a problem. The trick is to take that thin slice of the original core.

There was one on Craigslist in our area a week ago (I'm in Bath, PA). It had some damage to the right side fender and 2nd axle. But they seemed to be in a hurry to sell.