1940_Buick

Hello Dave, Do you know what model Schebler you need? They made lots and lots of different models, and even sub types. Another help is if you have a picture of what you need.

The guys are right. The vaccum tanks are fine once they're rebuilt. And the rebuild process is easy. You'll be surprised when you get the rebuild kit... a bunch of screws, a couple gaskets, and a few crush washers... that's pretty much it. Do not make the mistake of putting an electric fuel pump on. That's what leads to the complaints about the Marvel carb. The problem lies with the "mechanic" who doesn't understand 1920's engineering, not the carb or vaccum tank. The Marvel carb is not designed to handel the pressure of a pump, only the gravity feed from the vaccum tank. When used with a vaccum tank, they're fine. One tip on the vaccum tank... put a shutoff valve on the fuel line that comes out the bottom. When you turn the car off, open the hood and close the valve. That keeps the gas in the vaccum tank, and avoids the problem of it leaking through the carb and emptying your vaccum tank. When you're ready to run, open the valve and you've got a ready supply of fuel for the carb (and no leaks while it was sitting).

Try Special Interest Autos: Special Interest Autos - Antique Auto Electrical Parts They specialize in antique car (1920's and such) electrical parts. Usually I just have to give them the manufacturer and model of the component (distributor, generator, etc) and they can look up the parts.

Hello Virgil, Your Buick isn't a Model 10. The Model 10 was a small 20 hp car with 2 speed planetary trans. Similar to a Model T Ford. Yours looks like a 1910 Model 19. Before starting your car, carefully check the spark timing. There will be marks on the flywheel for TDC and valve timing.

I had my 1911 EMF there on Saturday. Beautiful weather, great cars. Spent lots of time talking to friends (new & old). Dash Awkscht Fescht has been a regular on our calendar for years. It's always hot, but there's always a shady spot to be found. My 1921 Ford Model T was at the very first Fescht (I was't born yet) in 1963.

That's a tough call. It's from 1925 to 1928. But beyond that, it could be from any number of makes.

Yes, PT boats were powered by 3 Packard V12 engines. The PT boats were built for speed and had very little protection. Their defense speed and stealth. They would quietly sneak up on their targets at night on the center engine. Then when they were within range, they'd launch 2 torpedos, turn around and open up all 3 V12s and blast out of there as fast as possible.

Calimers Wheel Shop does a very good job. But they have a waiting list. Here's their website: http://www.calimerswheelshop.com/

Dan-in-Flint, make sure your friend in Doyelstown makes it over to the Quakertown airport on Sunday, May 17 for the Brass-in-Bucks flea market. It's pre WWII parts only, and just down the road from Doyelstown. The event kicks off the Brass in Bucks HCCA tour. The flea market is small, but all good stuff and there's a nice little car show to boot!

Dean, I've been following your progress for months. It's almost kind of sad seeing your project almost complete. I hope that you find another car to restore for our entertainment

European style. It does look German or Belgian. Gas headlights, rear fender shape, and body style put it between 1911 and 1912.

FYI... The EMF is a 1909, the first year. It's the only year that had a straight front axle.

I'd agree that it's most likely an early Stanley. They had those wooden poles that run along the side from the front to rear axles. The valve knobs under the driver's seat are another giveaway. There's a very early Stanley in our area that has the same body.

If you have the center "spider" and just need the wood rim, there are a few guys who reproduce them. There's a fellow in Nazareth, PA who does a great job. I can't remember his name, but he's always at Hershey. I'm sure he advertises somewhere, or someone here may know him. He's a Franklin owner.

My dad was a car guy who grew up in the 1920's and 1930's. He started taking me to car shows when I was about 4 or 5. He'd lift me up to the windows to look inside, explain all about the different features, how to tell the different makes and years. He had a lot of stories about growing up with cars from that era... flying down the road in his friends 1928 Lincoln phaeton, his parents buying their brand new 1927 Model T Ford, his grandfather's confusion with shifting his new 1932 Chevy, after having nothing but Model T's before. So, while other fathers & sons were into baseball, football, or some other sport, my dad and I spent our time talking about antique cars. I even had antiqe car coloring books when I was little. But while dad loved cars, he wasn't mechanically inclined. I was always trying to talk him into buying an antique car, but never could. So, when I grew up, I got my own antique cars! It was a lot of fun driving dad around in cars he had talked about when he was young. This is my dad in my 1923 Buick Model 45. It was his last ride in one of my old cars. He passed away a month later

Hello Tom, Please post pictures of the car if you can. Does it have a 2 cylinder or 4 cylinder engine?

Blue Highways http://www.bluehighways.net/ Horseless Carriage http://www.horselesscarriage.com/ Road Scholar http://www.roadscholar.com/autohauling.html These are all reputable carriers. All use enclosed trailers. My brother delivers cars for Road Scholar, so I can personally vouch for them. All three carriers are also very experienced with cars like your Caddliac. A tip on getting a better deal... the more flexible you are with the pickup and delivery date, the better deal you'll get. The carriers have to coordinate loads to be profitable. That's why quotes can vary quite a bit from one carrier to another. If they'll have a truck with room passing through your area, the rate will be cheaper.

1948Lincoln, it's good of you to help your friend's wife out. With old tools and equipment the rule of thumb is that if there's a modern equivalent, the old tool is not worth much at all. However, if the tool was specialized and does not have a modern equivalent, then it’s worth something. F&J is right. For example, old wrenches, ratchets, screwdrivers, welders, jacks, etc. aren’t worth much of anything. The exception is if they’re part of a car’s original equipment and have the car manufacturer’s name on them. Even then, there may not be much value to the tool. For example, flat head Ford plug wrenches are so plentiful, they’re not worth much. But something like old KW tools that were designed for specific jobs on Fords are worth while. Any tool that was designed for a specific task that doesn’t exist with modern cars, like a Model T pan straightening jig, are a good find. Modern tools are usually better at doing a job than tools from 60+ years ago. They are stronger and better designed.

Those Dodges are good cars. Not that hard to find parts for and they've got a good engine. They didn't change the drive train much from year to year (compared to other cars). So parts aren't much of a problem. A few things you may not be familiar with if you haven't had a 1920's car before: Vacuum tank - This is before mechanical fuel pumps. It will have a cylinder mounted on the firewall or engine with fuel and vacuum lines going to it. Resist the temptation to put an electric fuel pump on it. An electric pump will put out more pressure than the carb can handle. The vacuum tanks aren't hard to rebuild. They're very simple mechanisms. The kits are available and cheap. Glass - Your Dodge has plate glass for the windsheild and all windows. Before you drive it much, it's a VERY good idea to replace this glass with saftey glass. If you should have a "mishap" with the car, the plate glass could be deadly. Remove the original glass, and take it to your local glass shop. Any decent glass shop can use the originals to make nice SAFE new saftey glass windows & a windsheild for you. It shouldn't be very expensive... probably $50 to $80 per pane. Tires - You're not far from one of the world's leading suppliers of vintage tires. Universal Tire is in Hershey, PA. Just go to www.universaltire.com. They'll have the tires, tubes, and flaps that you need, and you can just drive over and save the shipping. Rims - Your car has colapsable split rims. They're safe, not like the truck split rims. But to change the tires you'll need to either buy or borrow a "rim spreader". They're plentiful and easy to find. The rim spreader colapses the rim so you can remove the tire. Then when you put the new tire and tube in place, the rim spreader pushes the rim back into place. Transmission - It won't be syncronized. So you'll have to get the hang of "double clutching". It's not very hard and will become second nature to you. Just shift slowly. You'll learn that the car will tell you when it's time to move the shift lever. Also, when you change the transmission oil, don't use 90 weight. You'll have trouble shifting it if you do. Go to any of the Ford Model A parts suppliers and get some 600 weight oil. The thick oil helps slow the gears down for the next shift. All in all, you've got a very dependable 1920's sedan there! Great find. I agree with the rest of the guys. YOu don't need to restore it. Just go over it, clean and lube everything that moves... then enjoy it. Cars from this era are a lot of fun and get a lot of attention. They're much easier to work on than later cars. If I can be of any help, just e-mail me at bradwallace2000@yahoo.com I'm in Eastern PA.

Great car Tom. Hope you get the chance to enjoy it when touring season rolls around again. Where are you located?

When you put the cleaning solution in there, try using BB's for media, then shake it up. When you're done, you can pour the bb's out and since they're steel, you can use a magnet to get the stubborn ones out. Much easier than gravel.

I've used dryer sheets tucked inside each seat spring for years. Never had trouble with mice in the car. I know they've been in the garage because I catch them in the traps. But the dryer sheets seem to keep them out of the uplostery.

Hello Beto, Generally the tops on touring cars and roadsters can not be pre-fabricated. You'll have to get the materials (fabric, padding, and bows if necessary), and make the top to fit the car. The bows can be made. There are a number of suppliers out there. Usually shops that do interiors may have the skill to make and install a top.

Andrew, there are a number of opinions on the topic of detergent vs non-detergent oil. In my opinion, the best thing to do is use a multi-weight oil, like 10w30 or 10w40 and change it often for the first few thousand miles. Otherwise you'll be slowly adding to the sludge deposits already there. If your car has a filter, great. If it doesn't, it's likely that one was available for it. GM started using oil filters in 1926. Using a filter with detergent oil, and changing it often is the best thing you can do for your engine.

You say you're 2 hours from Hershey? Which direction? I'd suggest joining the Horseless Carriage Club of America (HCCA). Their website is www.hcca.org Activities are limited to cars built before 1916. The magazine alone is worth the cost of membership. We've got a fairly active group of early cars in eastern PA. The Brass in Bucks tour is in Quakertown, PA each year. By the way... you're not boring us with pictures. Can we see more?