WCraigH

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">(snip)There are serveral patches on the roof where the rust has done some light pitting on the surface where I can not sand the rust out of them. Is there some kind of spray or remover that I can apply that will neutralize the rust in the pits before I spray over it with the primer? (snip)</div></div> I may have a solution to this problem, which I found about about only today during a conversation at the local car show (see other thread). Anyway, there's supposed to be a primer that will truly fill-in rust pits and even larger things like gouges and some minor low spots. I'll be trying this on my 1976 Firebird project car, which I'm doing before I tackle my Panther. I'll post back what I find out about effectivness.

On a picture perfect 70F day in southern NV, the annual Pahrump Car Show was held today at the ONLY green grass public park in the city. About 120 cars in attendance and except for about a dozen late model 'Vettes which everyone but the Vette owners ignored, it was an interesting, eclectic show. Here are pix of the orphan cars (except moi) in attendance: 1948(?) Nash 1965 Rambler 1949 Jeepster 1951 Hudson "Lead Sled" Oh yeah, my 1955 Packard Patrician won 2nd place in the 1951-60 "original" class <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> I demo'd the T-L about 6 times and as I was leaving, a guy walked up to me and said, "...This is the classiest car here!". And, of course, the only Packard. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" />

Old posters on this chat forum will recall a couple of threads about driving our Packards about in public and getting into various conversations about it when stopped somewhere or even not stopped. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> I, like many, have had experiences like the above. But today, I had a unique experience I'd like to share and maybe this will illicit other "unique" experiences. So..., I'm running errands around town today and it being a beautiful Spring day in southern Nevada (70F), I'm driving my 55 Pat. One of my errands was to get a hair cut, so I stop at a "hair salon" next to the local hardware store (my next stop). I'd never been to this salon before, but was able to get a hair cut immediately as a walk-in. Near the end of my hair cut, a young women comes up to me at the hair cut station and asks, "Is that your Packard parked outside?" I'm thinking, Huh? How does this young women know about Packards? Then..., the older women rendering my haircut gets enthusiastic and asks about my Packard too. Within 5 minutes, my haircut is done, but now ALL the women in the shop want to see the Packard! So, EVERYBODY, including the customers, step outside and I give a guided tour of my 55 Pat! There's oo's and ahh's all around, particularly when I show them the big back seat and then demo the T-L going up and down. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" /> All the girls were duly impressed. Maybe the older ones remember the drive-in movie days in a T-L Packard?!? This never happened to me before and at a hair salon! What a hoot! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">(snip)...This sytem provided a very smooth ride. The onething about the system and maybe the design by Ciroen is that all DS models from what I understand have real bad body roll going into corners. From a practical point of view for real world conditions the Packard torsion bar suspension was much better. </div></div> So, what "anti-sway compensation" did the Citroen incorporate? Obviously, the Packard T-L had a (by today's standards, a "wimpy") front anti-sway bar. The rear S-bar arrangement was primarily for keeping the rear end postitively located, rather than anti-sway.

Those look like dual pattern wheels. Where'd you get them?

For everyone's edification, here are a couple of pix of the way my friend Paul is doing the wiring in his 1956 Exec: left front junction block left kick panel Although I don't have any pix of this (yet), the front to rear harness is run under the body and above the frame. The inside rear wiring (power windows, inside lights) is run inside the square cross tube just to the rear of the bottom of the rear seat. All of it is very neat and unique. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Ah, if that was the case, then my apologies Twitch, you got it covered. Have a beer on me! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> Too many threads going in too many different directions. Yikes, this is confusin'. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Switching to negative ground is easy too: 1.Disconnect the battery (VERY important first step) 2.Reverse the wires on the coil 3.Reverse the wires on the ammeter 4.Reverse battery cables with good ground Now go have a beer cause you're done! </div></div> Not quite. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" /> 1) You have to reverse the polarity of the generator. See service manual for procedure. 2) In some cases (like my 55Pat), I had a POS ground volt regulator, which had to be replaced with an either way volt reg (see XRef on my website for P/N).

Hanging a unit under the dash is certainly the easiest solution. Personally, I do not like the looks of it. My friend Paul has a trunk-mounted condensor and rear package tray outlets, so that's what he's going to do. However, we've had a conversation about the pros and cons of that arrangement. Obviously, it has the advantage of not altering the beautiful dash. But on the other hand, the rear outlets tend to freeze any rear passengers necks. Also the rear outlets alone may not be adequate for the front passengers in southern Nevada's 115F summertime temps. The factory solution of outlets in the top of the dash is not practical unless the dash is completely removed. My Panther solution would not be hard to reverse back to stock, except for the ashtray holes, which have to be opened up slightly. I do not expect to alter the radio knob holes or Wonderbar rectangle. It's a conundrum. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

Nice!! OK to include it in Panther website's "Showroom"? Craig

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yes, I have changed to negative ground. That was very easy and had no effect on the radio which I worried about. I wanted to go to negative ground so that I could at some point hide some modern electronics in the car (snip)</div></div> I did about the same thing on my 55 Pat and plan on same for 56 Panther. Pat has a AM/FM/CD in the glove box, speakers in the front kick panels (custom), 6x9s in the package tray, subwoofer in a box behind the rear seat and 400W amp in the trunk. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I also have been working on installing A/C. There is a fellow down in Texas who is working on putting AC in a 1956 Power Hawk and he is having compressor mounting brackets designed. He has been at this for a while and is making the bracket so it fits the Senior Packards as well. He has made plywood mockups and is about 2 weeks away from having a production unit (which he will offer for sale). He is located only a block away from Vintage Air and I believe they have helped him on this. The arrangement he has designed has the compressor where the current generator goes and an alternator over the compressor. I believe this eliminates the need for an idler pulley. He also has designed a cast aluminum crank pulley which I bought--it was beautiful. In my work I deal with aluminum sand castings and this was done very professionally. </div></div> [color:"blue"] VERY INTERESTING! I am going to do the same thing on the Panther, i.e., replace the generator with A/C compressor and mount alternator above compressor. In my friend Paul's case, he mounted them reversed from that. See: Paul's Engine For the interior, I was planning on using Vintage Air's 61000 series Heat & Cool unit mounted under the P-side dash. There's plenty of room with the tube radio removed. For the other components: using dash side ashtray holes for round vents and rectangular hole (wonderbar radio) in the top center for rectangular vent. A/C controls installed in radio tune and volume control holes on either side of radio hole. Keep us posted on your progress. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Have you changed to NEG ground? I believe all modern alternators are NEG ground.

1. Don't know... 2. "arrow" to right of "D", next to "L" is gear start, then upshift to torque converter. To the left is torque converter-only start. In both cases, the converter should lock up direct somewhere above 18mph, depending on load. 3. Underseat heater blower motor control. The heater is located under the P-side front bench seat. 4. Push up the front of the bottom rear seat over retainers, then slide forward and out . Unbolt bottom retaining bolts, then push the rear seat back up to clear retainers. 5. I've used Turtle Wax Emerald Series Leather cleaner and conditioner on the white leather of my 1972 Eldorado with good results, but I can't say how it would work on vinyl.

Bill, Good to know about the washer switch on the electric wiper conversion. Please take digipix of your install and post'em here or alternately, email them to me and I'll post'em on my Panther site for all to see. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Craig

My 55 Pat has the "wide" wire looms and I have another set off my 56 Exec parts car for my Panther: Wide plug wire holders My question is: anyone know where to get the rubber grommets or does some "standard" grommet fit? <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">(snip) Do these antennae retract fully? Thought I prefer to keep my cars original, even when retracted, the mast on the factory antenna sticks up about a foot, which leaves them prone to damage. </div></div> As I remember, they retract fully, but do not extend as tall as the original. I also believe that Paul made custom internal mounts to the floor, but these were pretty simple.

This is what my friend Paul in Vegas did with his 1956 Exec with dual rear antennas: Paul's Exec dual rear antenna I believe that he adapted some modern Ford power antenna to the Packard. If you're interested, email me and I'll put you in touch with him. It might be more work/$$$ than just sending it off to a professional rebuilder, but ?.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">No matter whether you have POS or NEG ground, the "ground" terminal of the battery will always be forwardmost, but the variable is which of the two corners that post will end up at. </div></div> Ah, you're right about that! But, at least with the NEG ground, the <span style="font-style: italic">logo</span> will be hidden against the fender, which I prefer. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">There was a different length of braided ground cable used between '55 and '56, but I'm sure you could get a longer, yet authentic looking one, if needed.</div></div> I list on my website the type & length of cables that worked well on my 55 Pat. They part nbrs are Pep Boys, for clear insulator, size "0": Parts X-ref, electrical, other

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">(snip)So far, the only substitute battery that "fits" the V8 cars closely enough is the one reported by <span style="font-style: italic">WCraigH</span>. It's listed in the cross-reference page of his <span style="font-style: italic">1956 Packard Panther</span> site, as well as the "55-56 Xref" thread in this DF, as a 29HM-850 (tested in his '55 Patrician), (snip) </div></div> Indeed, fits like a glove, particularly if you have NEG ground, in which case the NEG terminal is forwardmost and the <span style="font-style: italic">logo</span> is hidden against the firewall. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">For purposes of moving cars about during storage or work at home, I'd recommend buying that cheapest thing that will sit down in the tray and still crank the engine over - because nothing lasts forever. </div></div> B.H.: Excellent advice, as usual. As a matter of fact, these <span style="font-style: italic">fit-rite</span> batteries from Wal-Mart last around 4 years...I'm on my 2nd. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">In the fullness of time, maybe we'll see an Optima battery that fits in a faux case that's a dead ringer for the OE Willard Group 60 as an affordable alternative to expensive repros. </div></div> Amen! I'd buy one tomorrow.

At a chilly 48-deg, I don't think you'll see too many topless coeds, but if you do, it'll be a *pointed* experience. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

I have the Jag/Lucas Tribar-style 7" headlights on my 55 Pat with higher than stock wattage. A few years ago, the low beam went out and I found two at an American supplier with some Lucas stock and paid $25 per bulb for the last two he had in stock. The last good one is now installed. FYI, here's what I have in my Panther notes for the equivalent: Southern Rods Jag/Lucas style Tri-bar 7" $90/pr, Juliano JUAE70477 7" Halogen Headlight Bulb $60.00. I will say that the headlights in my Pat work great for night driving!

Bill, Factory washer was removed. My 55 Pat came with the factory setup, but parts were broken (but not the bottle), so I took it off before I even did the wiper motor conversion. I gave some thought to using an aftermarket (Pep Boys, JCWhitney type) washer bottle & electric motor and hooking the rubber hoses to the factory connections and activating with a mometary switch under the dash. But since it rarely rains here in NV and I'm not a big fan of washers anyway (can scratch the glass), I never pursued it. Of course, there's no provision for the Packard optional washer with the replacement electric wiper motor. Furthermore, the washer control on the wiper switch in the dash is nonexistent with the replacement switch.

Rick, et aL: The spacer idea has merit, but the devil is in the details. I've had the front suspension apart on these 55-56 T-Ls more times than I care to remember. Recalling that, off the top of my head, here are the challenges in a spacer approach: 1955 is different than 1956. Essentially, the strut is flipped 180-deg with the "cup" side down in 1956 (probably to keep out dirt). Depending upon how the spacer was implemented, it might not work for both years. I think the place to put the spacer is to sandwich it between the lower control arm and the "receiver plate" (GP 15.972), which has a short stud (pilot) which fits into a corresponding hole in the lower control arm. So the spacer could have a corresponding stud on the bottom and hole on the top, which would prevent it from moving once installed. [color:"red"] HOWEVER, the mating surfaces are [color:"red"] NOT flat, so both top and bottom of the spacer would have to conform to that shape. In addition, there is a rubber insulator in there now, so you'd need two of those to keep it from squeaking and also account for the compressed thickness of the 2nd one in the total spacer vertical dimension. Finally, I don't sell the adjustable links outright. They are done on an exchange basis with a couple of weeks turnaround. Also, I make [color:"red"] ZERO on this deal. I just do it for the good of hobby and service to fellow Packard T-L owners.

RE: spacer. Putting aside the design & implementation issues (shape, attachment, etc), how do you know the thickness to correct the sag? You don't. Hence you need a way to adjust.

Remote fill master cylinder is what I used on my 55 Patrician. See my website for pics & details. 7-in diameter is about as big as you're going to be able to install. A dual diaphram will help with the pedal pressure, but I had to devise a 3:1 pedal lever to get enough force. Again this is pictured on my website. For my Panther, I'm going to use a firewall-mounted Delco unit from a big Chevy. Of course the dash and everything is removed. I wouldn't attempt this otherwise.