WCraigH

Model 33687 disassembled by prior owner for a restoration project, but all the major parts are there, including engine (350) and trans (TH350). This Olds was stored outside, but in the southern Nevada desert, so there's little rust. It can be put back together or I'll part it out if no one is interested in the whole deal for $500. Email me for more info or pictures. wcraigh@air-internet.com

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">(snip)What is needed is a piece of round stock that will precisely fit thru two of the mains and then measure down thru the bore to the round stock. I believe a pieced of 2.5 inch tailpipe stock would probably be close enuf for any precision needed to meet production variances.(snip)</div></div> OR, a Tool & Die quality microflat table with matching QA height measurement tools. That's what my old racing partner used to own. One time we got a "finished" machined block back from one of the "famous" engine builders (I believe it was Keith Black) in SoCal, but because it was a Pontiac (Packard would also applicable), I guess they let one of their "junior" machinist do the machining. As measured on the above Aerospace-quality equipment, the deck height was not only off side-to-side, but also varied from front to rear by more than 0.010"! We sent it back to that shop with a "Hughes AeroSpace QA" big red rejection tag on it! Needless to say, it came back correct the next time and so did anything else we subsequently sent to them. Unfortunately, I don't have access to that kind of measuring equipment anymore...I'm in the same boat as PackardV8 nowadays. But, it does give one pause about what kind of aftermarket machine work that is being done, especially when one doesn't have the measurement tools to really check it properly. I'd trust the original Packard machining above anything else.

Here are the scanned glossy 8x10s provided by Mr.Pushbutton: 1955 Dallas Auto Show T-L Chassis (small 82K) 1955 Dallas Auto Show T-L Chassis (big 446K) Message to PackardV8 from Mr.Pushbutton: ...the chassis in the photo only needs a HEI distributor, shorting buttons in place of the T-L compensation circuitry, and radio shack switches in place of the stock gear selector buttons to be "perfect" for next year.

Refreshing to bring current.

Twitch: before you go to a lot of research effort, check out the 55-56 Xref thread on this forum and pretty much the same Xref on my website: Panther Project: 1955-56 Xref Any fill-in-the-blanks info would be GREATLY appreciated!

55Connie: If temporarily blocking all the vacuum lines doesn't remedy the problem: Do you have the WCFB or the 4GC? The latter has a off-idle power system that may be blocked or otherwise inoperative. Both have an accelerator pump system that if it has slop in the throttle-to-pump linkage will also cause an off idle stumble. My 55 Pat's 4GC had this problem. I used JBWeld to close up the linkage holes and redrill to the original size: no more stumble. You might also check the thermostat valve in the driver's side exhaust manifold. It may be rusted/jammed open. This would significantly delay cold start manifold heating. My 55 Pat also had this problem. As a matter of fact, some prior owner had completely removed the internal valve! I replaced it with a NOS one and this helped cold start warm up a lot.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I was wondering how well the Packard drivetrain would stand up to 500 HP ? </div></div> I agree with Brian about the Packard X-frame being much less prone to twist than a pickup ladder frame. Also, the T-L uses torque arms, which would not "wind up" like leaf springs under heavy torque load. A 3/4 ton leaf spring would ride way too stiffly, i.e., "like a truck". <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> What I would do (and I've built NHRA Super Stock chassis before) is: 1) "box" the T-L torque arms and 2) weld the torque arm forward retaining brackets to the frame (stock is bolted). 3) Use a 1956 rear end which is a Dana-44 type. A good rear end shop should be able to fit modern, new "posi" and gears (any reasonable ratio). The fenderwells on a 1955-56 Packard are 13" wide (internal dimension). You'd have to open up the fenderwell ala the 1953 Caribbean to insert/remove a fat tire under there, though. As far as transmission is concerned, machine off the "skirt" at the rear of the block and adapt whatever modern bell housing and transmission you desire.

Same question (plus dealer installed option), but for the gas door lock.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Here is a website with Track Data, on the 2 types and points, that I thought was interesting (snip)</div></div> Interesting that MSD-style wasn't tried or how about a magneto? These guys tried to do it right, making essentially back-to-back tests, but also didn't make atmospheric corrections. If you're going to believe drag strip results (and who wouldn't?), then I would believe all the NHRA guys who use MSD including myself back in the day. FYI, my 1974 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am 455 Super Duty set an NHRA National Record in 1977 at Fremont Drag Strip. At the time, I was using a 1963 Pontiac 421 Super Duty mechanical tach drive distributor, but ignition timed by my own design crankshaft magnetic trigger thru an MSD-7 ignition. If there were a quicker, more reliable combination possible at the time, I would have been using it. Did the crank mag trigger actually add any performance? It was certainly more "accurate" than any distributor-based timing. Then and now, I would say NO, it didn't add any measurable performance. Once you reach "maximum ignition", you've peaked and you're not going to get any more power until you change something else fundamental such as combustion chamber design, intake/exhaust port flow, etc. On the other hand, belief in ignition types/brands are sort of like religion. Run what works for you and will get you to "heaven." <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Craig, what type of ignition are you going to use on ths Panther? thanks Joe </div></div> MSD-5. The Autolite distributor has been completely "gone thru" and recurved for the cam, while retaining stock (new) points. Since the cam is expected to produce maximum HP at 5000 (see Computer simulation of Panther engine, the MSD-5 will work fine. Back in the day, I've used an analogous type of combo many times with good results (no misfire, great torque & HP, reliable).

Not to be picky, but what you need is a good original piece from which to make the mold and then you can cast the replica. BUT, if you had a good original in the first place, why would you need to cast a replica? I guess that's where your buddies in the hobby come in. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Episode #8 of the DIY 1938 Packard Restoration had a segment on casting a "new" tail light lens. I'd never heard of this product and the DIY host expert hadn't either until a few weeks before this episode was taped. I'm not sure how this would work on highly curved pieces like the front running light bezels on the 1955-56 Senior cars, or really big, intricate pieces like the taillight lenses on any 1955-56, but for the flat, round taillight lens on the 1938 it was easy and came out fine. Anyway, here's the company that manufactures this process: Alumilite Click on <span style="font-style: italic">Applications</span> --> <span style="font-style: italic">Car Restoration</span>

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I have read that the wires from Distributor to MSD unit should be kept as short as possible to decrease possible problems (inaccurate pulses to MSD). </div></div> Rick: The MSD-5 comes with a sheathed, fixed length wire loom. If you use that you shouldn't have any problem. If you "cut and paste" the provided wire set, then you're on your own. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Do you think mounting MSD under Dash may cause these problems? (that may be an advantage of using original points as trigger instead of a Magnetic Pickup) </div></div> Where'd you read about this "possible problems" stuff? When I owned my Pontiac high performance & racing car business back in the 1970s-early 1980s, I was a Warehouse-Distributor for the whole MSD line. Autotronics had MSD-5 and MSD-6s back then and I never heard of such a thing out of 1000s sold. Of course, if you use some mag p/u with inadequate voltage output, then MAYBE you could have a problem. In which case, don't do that. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> What about RFI noise in Radio? </div></div> On my 55 Pat with MSD-5, I have an aftermarket AM/FM/CD player in the glove box and have zero ignition noise. BTW, another "rumor" is that MSD-5 is not multi-spark and low performance and one should use MSD-6AL instead. This is BS given by those who want to sell you the more expensive 6AL. So long as you have a stock engine running below about 5500 rpm, MSD-5 is adequate. Racing or super/turbocharged is another matter entirely. I don't sell this stuff anymore, but IMO Autotronics' MSD line is vastly superior to anything comparable. Walk around the pits at any NHRA national meet and check out every vehicle from Stock to Top Fuel. Almost all have MSD ignition of one sort or another. That should convince you right there because these people cannot afford an ignition failure and will spend whatever is necessary for the best out there.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If you can save it to AVI or MPG, I would be happy to post it on my FTP server so everyone can download it.</div></div> Sorry, I don't have the connections, hardware or software to do so. In any case, it would be a really BIG file. It's 300 minutes unedited or 200 minutes with the commercials culled out. Edited, it will fit on one T-160 (3@SP, 7@EP speed) or T-120 (all EP speed) VHS tape though.

Packard intake port on the head is 2.070" high x 1.215" wide as measured on my 1956 heads.

BTW, even though this 10-part restoration series uses a 1938 Packard project car, (1) there's some good Packard history discussed and (2) there's very little that is 1930's specific. It's a good series for anybody restoring a collectible car and certainly a Packard in particular. (3) for those amongst us (myself included) who don't know that much about the pre-war cars, it was interesting and fun to see the 1938 120 "fully sorted out." This was not a frame-off full restoration, but a system-at-a-time restoration while leaving the Packard basically intact. A good and viable approach. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

OK guys, I've saved all 10 of the DIY 1938 Packard restoration shows on my DVR TiVo. There's 200 minutes (10 x 20 min) of content (skip commercials) which I can get on a T-160 VHS tape. Email me for a copy. I figure $20.00 should cover the tape, postage and my time (cheap, eh?). <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> wcraigh@air-internet.com

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Is there any reason why Pertronix and MSD cannot be used together? Can the MSD unit tell whether points or Pertronix fire the system? </div></div> Yes and no. The more expensive MSD boxes (6AL, 7...) will trigger off of almost any system. You'd have to call MSD to make sure, but that's the way I remember it. The least expensive unit (MSD-5) is not as flexible. WRT Brian's comments above: I carry 1 jumper wire in the glove box to remove the MSD from the ignition circuit and convert it back to stock. I've never had to use it. Also, the only wear factor is the point rubbing block on the distributor cam lobes. With MSD, dwell is irrelevent. So long as the points open/close, the MSD will fire. But crank timing has to be checked occasionally because the rubbing block wear will cause it to change. One last thing, I mounted my MSD-5 box down in the P-side fenderwell. You can't see it unless you are REALLY looking. Another mounting option would be inside the passenger compartment under the dash somewhere.

Any electric motor or light bulb on your 1955 does not care about battery polarity. Your spark coil and radio sort of care, even though they will "work" either way. Obviously your ammeter and generator do care. You can run your Packard either way so long as you have the ammeter (and spark coil) hooked up "right". You can polarize the generator to charge either way. Some voltage regulators only work with one polarity, but others will work either way. See this for part numbers: Electrical parts Xref As a point of reference, my 1955 Patrician was originally positive ground, but I converted it to negative ground years ago and haven't had any problems since I did the conversion which included replacing the voltage regulator with NAPA #VR325. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> (snip) BTW, I'd recently heard that a 1:43 scale, handcrafted "white metal" (read as "pricey"), model of a 1952 Packard "Pininfarina" had come to market, from an outfit called "Show Stoppers," which had me confused. The attached pic shows it is the subject Carl Schenider car. </div></div> Yup, the same car and it's a better representation of what the car looks like than either picture on the web sites I linked. The fastback is the most striking visual aspect of Carl's car. It looks beautiful and natural, even though the "back" is straight down and across whereas the 1951-55 trunks were somewhat "humped" in shape. For a better view, maybe someone can scan Carl's "Parisian" from the <span style="font-style: italic">Collectible Automobile</span> article you cited and post it here.

Today, I was reviewing the video I shot at the 2000 Packards Intl meet in Orange, CA. I have two segments of Carl Schneider's "what if?" 1952 Packard Parisian. Unforunately I don't have the equipment to capture the tape to MPEG or do a screen capture, but I did find two websites showing his car. On both, you'll have to search the page for "Parisian". Car and Driver article Vintage Auto Service Neither pictures does the bodywork and paint on this car justice. Also, note that it's been sectioned like the Pan American. However, the interior is custom, reminiscent of a 1960s or 1970s muscle car, but with the stock Packard dash. Apparently, Carl has raced this car in vintage events. One of my video segments is of it being driven around the parking lot at the PI Club office and that race-cammed straight 8 is something to hear! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" /> Maybe somebody else has some pictures or other websites about this car.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">(snip) Sadly the dry paint colour is not nearly as nice and has heavy signs of bad buffing. You can see the swirls in the paint/clear coat. Next year I will be having it painted if I can find the odiginal colour. This was painted once (badly) darker blue.</div></div> Unless it's badly chipped or scratched, try color sanding, buffing and hand polishing on that paint first. You might be pleasantly surprised at the result. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Dunno.<img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> Where to the wires lead under the car?

Beautiful car! You gotta love that "monster from the sea" grille. Plus, IMO that Cormorant was one of the best designs ever.

Paul in Las Vegas has one like this (1956 Clipper 4dr) that he just bought, except that it's the whole car disassembled. He paid a lot less than $1,000 for the whole shebang. The separate frame and T-L is illustrative to those who've never seen same before, but other than that, someone's trying to unload some junk for $$$. I expect that Mike Dulinski has quite a few of these, if one were really interested in making a 1956 "Pack-up" or somesuch. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />