WCraigH

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Joke, right? Who would name a town Pahrump? </div></div> Hey, it's in Nye County, NV 70 miles NNW of Las Vegas. I didn't name it, but there are lots of cool older cars here. Jack, you are invited!!!

Starting May 20 (Saturday), there will be the [color:"red"] FIRST face-meeting of the Packard V-8 Club! Held at Craig's place in Pahrump, NV, everyone with an interest in Packard V-8s is invited to attend. Activitites will include: First meeting of the PV8C. T-shirts will be available. Photoshoot of a pretty model wearing the PV8C T-shirt at Red Rock Canyon. Disassembly of most parts off the rusty CA 1956 400. Inspection of Paul's 1956 Exec on sunday. Assembly of KevinAZ's 1955 352+0.125 (374) during the event. Engineering of Avanti Supercharger fitment to Eric's Pat. Debut of adaption of Olds HV oil pump to Packard V-8. When too hot to work: beer & BS. Local motel rooms available. If you're in CA or AZ or NV and have an interest, email me for local info. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

The main requirement to get that hub off is perseverance. Here's what worked for me one time: pulling rear hub on 55 Pat Somebody else suggested driving it around the block with the retaining nut loose. I'm not sure how fast you're supposed to take the corners, especially with a blown wheel cylinder. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" /> Once you get it loose, it's easier the next time. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" /> Or on 1955s, install a 1956 (Dana) rear end which dispenses with the tapered hub.

For those of you near a Harbor Freight store, there's a really good sale going on right now and also early next month. I went to the Las Vegas store yesterday and found these items: Steel service cart, 2 level 24x36, HD casters, regularly $60, sale $35 I put this together this AM and for the price, it's a [color:"red"] MUST HAVE. 7 Function digital Multimeter - regularly $10, sale $3 For the price??? Hey, it seems to work fine (don't know about accuracy), but it came with an internal battery. For those of us who don't own a Dremel tool & set, try this: Rotary tool kit with 60 accessories, regularly $15, sale $9 I can't find this one on Harbor Freight's website, but the Vegas store had a 36in wrecking bar (3/4in hex steel body) that was about $5. Every big boy needs one of these for... well, not sure, but when you see it you'll want it. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

With all due respect to my "good virtual friend" bernardi, this is [color:"red"] MORE THAN INTERESTING! In a self-imposed learning curve with help from local restorer friends, I just went thru this with my 1976 Firebird. That whole episode was to finish that project, cash out and apply funds to the body work, prep and paint in my Panther. While my 'Bird hadn't sat outside for multiple-decades, it did sit out side for a season under a tarp during what amounts to a rainy season here in So. NV. Same effect on the bare metal. While similar in process, but different in materials than what was recommended by a local restorer friend, [color:"red"] GETTING THE RUST OFF THE METAL is indeed the number one criteria. I [color:"green"] THINK that I got all the rust off before primer, paint, etc., but only time will tell on the 'Bird. The ultimate test will be my Panther. But, I've learned a lot during this past exercise and will do a 'better' job in the future. Thanks for the info! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> As you probably already know, I don't get to go to many car Shows where judging is involved, so can someone explain how the Modified class, like Paul was entered in, really works? (snip) And probably different than Any Other car in the World. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> </div></div> At this little show, "modified" class is limited to 2 major modifications. More than that you would be put in "altered" or "customized" class, depending. I asked one of the judges who I know and is a neighbor to look at Paul's car and advise him which class to enter before Paul filled out his entry form. One easy-to-spot modification was the dual E-carbs, not the original 4GCs. Of course there are WAY MORE modifications on Paul's Exec than TWO! But, Paul didn't volunteer any info and nothing more was asked by this judge.

Paul's Exec rated a [color:"red"] PERFECT 50 of 50 from the judges at the show, BUT <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" /> only got 2nd place in the 1951-60 Modified class because the 1st place winner also had a perfect 50/50, but was a local! Paul was "home-towned"! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />

The crowd gathers to admire Paul's Exec (and maybe a little bit, my Pat):

Famous tails:

Nice weather and car show in Pahrump NV today. Great turnout of maybe 140 cars. Also 2 Packards, i.e., Paul & I! Here is about 0830 when we first go there:

I used the 3M Blue glazing putty on my recent Firebird project based upon recommendations by local friend/restorer Dean. The only problem was on the plastic (endura) bumper, NOT on metal. Just my $0.02.

So, you already have the Dana 53 pinion seal? Where'd you get it? Maybe it'd be worth an entry in the 55-56 Xref if it's not from one of the "usual suspects" as a NOS or repackaged part. Dana 53 was also used in some 1957-70 Willys Jeep vehicles, so maybe there's a way to xref?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Kepich advertises in the PAC CNB and is on ebay as KLASSCOLLECTION selling exhaust as a buy-it-now option. </div></div> Paul in Las Vegas used Kepich duals on his recent resto and reports that if "fit perfect".

Is your 56 a Jr (Dana 44/45) or Sr (Dana 53)?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You know , a Packard powered by dilithium crystals would be pretty fast , if you ask me! </div></div> To be more "accurate" to the mythos, dilithium crystals focus the collision of antimatter to provide power. But, what the hey? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">See Craigs Panther web site. (snip)</div></div> Adjustable front links

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">This tool is sooooooo easy to use.</div></div> Caveat: IF you don't have extra long links! <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">BTW, Robert also reminded me (privately) that the two of the four bolts that secure the front load arm bracket to the frame are shared with the lower control arm inner shaft. If you have to remove the LCA, you'll wanna reinstall those bolts to stabilize the load arm bracket while you do the balance of off-car service. </div></div> Amen! I consider this a mandatory procedure! Otherwise, it's unsafe due to the forces involved.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">(snip) How about Craig, can Ross make pistons for Packin31's older vehicle? </div></div> Probably, but bring your wallet. The prices went way up in the last few years. KevinAZ & I decided to get pistons for his 352+0.125=374 from Egge after Kev talked to their tech people. After arrival and inspection, they look really good.

Driving a Packard makes a good drive a GREAT drive! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> Thanks for sharing the experience. By contrast it was mid-40-ish and snow/hail in So.NV., so my Pat stayed in the garage. But, pretty soon... <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

Didn't "we" decide in an earlier thread that the Packard V-8 is internally balanced? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> If so, then harmonic balancers are interchangeable from engine to engine.

Although I have used chains in the past and a clone J-6065 that didn't really work for me, I'll commit to buy one. My issue is how "tightly" the tool snout fits up into the frame. In order to install lengthened (adjustable -- my design and Dave Schuwood's design) front T-L links, the torque arm MUST be captured as high as necessary to install the longer link. The same problem exists for anyone who wants to install the longest factory links.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I remember reading that Smokey Yunick story, (snip) It was called "Say, Smokey." In his later years he had nothing good to say about the "poppet valve 4-cycle Otto engine" and regularly predicted its demise, saying that all the attempted improvements to the basic design were like "putting makeup on an 80-year-old whore" or something close to that. </div></div> All the parts reciprocating at mind-boggling speed in a "poppet valve 4-cycle Otto engine" is pretty amazing that it works at all, particularly compared to a turbine or Wankel engine. OTOH, nothing sounds like an American hi perf V-8, so maybe it's why it's ubiquitous, especially in the USA. Smokey Yunick also "cheated" a lot in the sense of liberally interpreting the racing sanctioning body rules. Gotta love somebody who thinks far outside the box. And wins! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

I have that Harbor Freight clicker also. It works fine and seems quite accurate compared to my other one. BUT, make sure when you are done, you unwind the adjustment to less than zero. That will keep the spring "fresh" and your readings accurate longer.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">2. Stainless steel exhaust headers like those used on the Z06/LS7 Corvette, with a built-in divider for the center exhaust ports.</div></div> One would need a vastly different exhaust port arrangement (see above). <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">5. Edelbrock Air Gap intake manifold.</div></div> I don't see any point in this because the Packard already has a valley cover like a Poncho. The bottom of the intake is NOT being splashed by oil which is the whole reason for an "air-gap" intake. Otherwise, I agree! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">(snip) 2. If you could get someone to make a better part for Packards (any year, any model) what would it be, and why? (snip)</div></div> What Eric said, plus: A. "high performance" cylinder head to improve the siamesed center exhaust ports. Because of head bolt placement, this would probably require EIEIIEIE valve order rather than the stock EIIEEIIE. One in aluminum would be nice. Also, an "open chamber" (modern) design rather than the original "closed chamber" (mid-50s), but one could port the combustion chamber to achieve this like I'm doing on my Panther engine. B. "high performance" cast iron exhaust manifolds like Pontiac had on their 1959-63 425A & 421SD and 1967-73 400-428-455 Ram Air, High Output and Super Duty engines. These are almost as good as headers performance-wise, but are quieter and last indefinitely.