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waltmail

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  1. After many years of a non working fuel gauge, I had the opportunity to use a buddy's hydraulic lift. Now that is a luxury. The gauge became non working when I replaced the fuel pump on my garage floor, years ago. I have avoided doing the garage floor again. Well, we dropped the tank and pulled the sending unit/pump. Moved the float mechanism up and down with no change on the gauge which always reads Empty or 1-2 bars. Just as I was ready to reinstall it and figure the unit was shot, I noticed the float arm was disengaged from the plastic snap in position retainer from the very 1st job. Stuck it back in place and voila.

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  2. Still working on courtesy lights, when running diagnostic test on input side of Bcm all tests show change of state, hi to lo amd back. When checking output side of BCM test bo04 courtesy lamp relay test there is no change of state, stays in hi which If I remember is the off state. The next step is to check the relay in the micro relay center located in trunk above right rear wheel housing. There is a 6 position relay socket with 5 relays installed. The relay is in position B. I have removed the relay block trying to find socket B and cannot find any chart showing socket letters. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE can anybody tell me which is the relay socket aka socket B

    thanks to all. After this the car will be 100 percent working, even the headlights suggested light works.

     

     

    I am up the road in Deerfield Beach with a similar problem. I'll be hoping you get the answers. I need to put my interior back together before I can determine the extent of my gremlins.

  3. hopefully one of the parts dealers on here will buy some stock and sell it in the correct lengths at a reasonable price.i need some too.

    I just removed my original piece and it measures 8" 6". So 26 feet will make 3 units. @ $2.00/foot cost is $52.00 + shipping or $17.50 each. I had been quoted over $100.00 a few years back from the dealer ( but not available ). Best chance was from Mazda dealer for RX7 which uses the same sun roof unit. Don't even know if they are available still.

  4. Off to the marine store.

    Whoa. Sticker shock. $ 70.00 for a quart + activator + mat at BOW. Went to Finishmaster Auto Paint Supply and got a whole gallon (which I will never use) activator, 8 sq ft of mat, mixing sticks and brushes = $47.00.

  5. The headliner shell is pressed fiberglass (not the hard kind like used on boats, the soft kind like attic insulation) and yes, it is a poor design from a durability standpoint. Best reccomendation would be to get a fiberglass repair kit (resin and fiberglass mat that can be cut to cover badly damaged areas) at an auto parts store and use that to make repairs. It is messy but will be the strongest repair.

    I will say that you will want to let it outgas for a few days at least before putting it in the car, or the smell will get to be a bit much. Made this mistake myself. Hopefully you aren't rushed to reinstall it.

    KDirk

    That was one of my thoughts and what I will probably go with. Thanks.

  6. My headliner base in the '89 is cracking, crumbling and deteriorating. It seems to be , originally very fragile construction, as in cheap. I have the sun roof to deal with. Anyone have any ideas for something, epoxy like, I can spray it with to firm it up.

  7. If none are working then troubleshooting the courtesy lamp circuit is in order.

    KDirk

    Still looking for this at ROJ. I found a write up b Padgett, Barney and McReatta. Don't know if one or all apply. Before I go any further I should mention that my headliner, visors, door cards and all connections are out of the circuit.
  8. Just got a very nice dome light from Jim Finn. I know it is a good unit. Tested from battery source. MY question is what controls the dome light? Isn't it a timer. Putting a voltmeter on the circuit at the bulb contacts does not indicate a drop off of the voltage after the 20 seconds has elapsed. What gives?

  9. Do they light up when you get "the show"? If they do the inverter is probably bad. If they are dim, then what has happened is that your backlight illuminecent strips in the switches are going bad. That means you will need to replace the switches as to date there is no replacement strip.

    I forgot about the photocell. Thanks Dashmaster

    Activated"the show" with the test button. "Rear window def" and "defroster" light up on test. Headligh/Park lights switches do not light on "test", but do light up when activated. Shifter position does not (could be burnt light bulb in unit???? ). Dimmer control does work. Cruise control light and hazards light when activated. Any ideas?

  10. Harry' date=' go to the last post in the above thread for the best advice. On a prior coupe with factory sunroof I discovered one of the rear drain tubes was pinched shut from the factory causing a leak. Just look in the 4 corners of the sunroof channel to find the drains. A quick shot of compressed air will tell you if you have a clog. Clearing the clog might be as easy as directing air into the drain or may require the removal of the headliner. My clog was inside the "B" pillar and took some disaasembly to get at it. I do NOT recommend sealing up the sunroof as a repair when the fix is not that difficult.[/quote']

    Hey, very useful info. I was ready to weatherstrip glue myused rubber in place to stop the leak and then found your link.

    http://forums.aaca.org/f116/weather-stripping-sun-roof-buick-reatta-311166.html

    Re: weather stripping for sun roof buick reatta

    the sunroof weatherstripping is just a decoration, and is not designed to keep out water.

    if you're having issues with water leaks, the problem is with clogged drain tubes, not the weatherstrip gasket. there are four tubes, one on each corner. removal of the headliner will be necessary to properly do the job.

    remove the hose clamp that secures each tube to the sunroof assembly, and blow out the tubes with compressed air. you won't believe all of the garbage that comes out. the front tubes drain behind the front wheels, and the rear tubes in front of the rear wheels.

    Mike Rukavina

    Just in time. Now to locate the dump tube at the wheels. Found the fronts easily. Rears not so much.

  11. Okay, where to start? Most of my switches, if not all do not light up at night (with headlights on). Makes my memory work overtime to find the switches. Is this controlled by the headlamp main switch or??????????? Any ideas for resolving this issue. I tried Ronnie's tutorials but did not find anything related. Tried the "search function" and it hates me.

  12. [ATTACH=CONFIG]307395[/ATTACH]

    Meanwhile this is what original 88 ignition keys look like but only the head is special, the key itself is standard GM for 88. Worst case a GM dealer should be able to create a key from the VIN.

    Looks like you are getting the key to turn and activate the ifntion to get the dash displays so not being able to turn the wheel means the lock pin is not dropping & I'd be thinking about pulling the wheel and finding out why.

    If the display lights up, it seems the ignition key is turning. It normally starts in Park &/or Neutral if the ignition key goes to Accessory/Run, pull the gear selector into neutral and try to start.

    I would also pull the steering wheel hard left/right while attempting to turn key to "start".

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