waltmail
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Posts posted by waltmail
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There is no evidence that they were factory installed. The phone option does not appear on Reatta order forms.
The best story I have heard, directly from one of the GM Zone guys, Some people in the Dallas Zone noticed that the phone was an option on the Riviera but not the Reatta. Since the electronics and concole are the same, they did 2 red 1989 coupes. They were used by the Dallas zone until they became "used cars" and two of the people purchased the "used" cars. One stayed in Dallas and the other became part of a divorce and went to California. Bill Brown purchase the Dallas car and decided he also wanted the California car (Bill also worked for GM in Dallas) He tracked down the California car. He has offered them for sale but he may still have both of them.
After the Dallas Zone did the install, the information spread and Buick dealers could/would install the cell phone in a Reatta. I have never seen a "kit" price but it is speculated that it would cost $1500 or more for a phone in your Reatta.
Wow. I will hang onto mine and leave it installed. BTW, mine is an NEC phone. I still have the original user card and mini manual in the glove box. Thanks for the info gang.
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Was this factory or dealer installed. What is the opinion on keeping it in the car (not in service) or yanking it out?
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JAXED is/was a website that allowed you to search Craigslist in all cities at once for an item... instead of having to search individual cities.
Wouldn't that be nice. I am searching for a 1982 Honda CB750F Supersport and it is quite tedious jumping from city to city.
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Thanks Ronnie. Just ordered an ign wire set and a front strut mount kit (they only had 1 remaining). Love my Rock Auto.
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It is the one that is recommended but I didn't know for sure. I have removed ti from the store.
Just got more info. That one may be used. the generics come with 4 wire, but our cars only use the center 2. So the 2 outside pins would be snipped and/or disregarded. I would keep it in the store.
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If the connector you need looks like the one below it is available in The Reatta Store. Look in the Electrical system category.
Thanks Ronnie. Wrong one.
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I can send you a new plug. PM me your address and I'll cut one off and ship it out.
Just sent you a PM. Thanks Marck.
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It's been an ongoing process that I have negelected and last night the ominous red alt indicator came on and voltage gauge dropped down. Sure enough, when I stopped to look the connector had popped out of the top of the alternator. Attempting to stick it back in it just crumbled into uselessness. I am assuming it is the communication cable between the the V Reg and ecmu. I am now dead in the water. I am attempting to find a replacement, but in the meantime if I can rig up a straight connection I need to know which 2 of the 4 pins in the alt socket are the correct ones. Ive got a red and a white wire. Also anyone know where I can get a replacement socket/cable that I can splice into the leads?
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Pull the horn button off, remove nut, rent steering wheel puller from advance auto.
I thought it would be complicated, but then I don't have an airbag.
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Anyone know the procedure for removing the steering wheel on an '89 and is willing to share it?
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Walt I have been struggling recently with worn key issues. My worn key would still easily operate the ignition lock but the key got where it was worn so bad the key would come out of the lock going down the road and hit the floor.
I got lucky. I found my spare key that was still in good condition and works the lock as it should without coming out. I will be able to have it duplicated so I will have more spares.
I'm concerned that you say you bought a replacement cylinder and it wouldn't work. Did you buy it from The Reatta Store? It should have came with new keys for the ignition lock cylinder. I don't want to be offering something in the Reatta Store that won 't work.
I'm always looking for a good write-up of fixing our Reattas. I would be grateful if you could do a write-up.
I am sorry for the misunderstanding. I just bought a new cylinder but am waiting for delivery. I found some info from a youtube tutorial stating that if the key can be removed while the cylinder is in "run" position, it is well worn and will eventually operate without a key.
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One option is to replace the ignition key lock cylinder. It comes with two new keys. They aren't expensive and are available in
The Reatta Store - Reatta Owners Journal. Drawback to that option is having to install the lock cylinder. It requires some dis-assembly of the steering column. I haven't done that. I'm sure someone here can instruct you on how it's done.
Just bought a replacement cylinder. Had new keys cut from old key. Just as bad as original. Would you want me to attempt a write up when I replace mine?
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Somehow, I lost my good set of keys for the '89 Reatta. Only back up I have is a worn out set , that works, but I don't believe can be used for duplicating. I have been telling myself to make another set for quite awhile now, but stupidity overwhelmed me. What might be the easiest solution?
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Just found some very useful YouTube tutorials on the subject.
It is a 3 part series, so this is a starting point.
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads : About Compressing a Caliper - YouTube
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ESPO Springs & Things is a good source for suspension parts.
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Walter,
In a word, yes. And the red brake light kept coming on. To get it to turn off, I'd pull on the release handle then, after pushing the pedal to the floor, let the pedal pop back to it's retracted position.
John F.
That sounds familiar. Thanks.
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Walter,
What I found to be the cause of my sagging brake cable was the left rear cable had somehow disconnected itself from the equalizer connector. It's located above the cross-member of the rear suspension. On page 5-20 of the FSM (both '88 & '89 model years) (both paper and online versions) position "G" in figure 5-17.
John F.
Prior to fixing the condition was your e brake rendered useless? Thanks for the info.
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Really sags below floorpan level and will not engage for use. I am going to replace the rear rotors and pads this weekend and am wondering if there is something to look for while in that area that might correct the problem.
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Ronnie, I bought that rear brake caliper compressing tool off of your site. Any idea how to use it?
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Apparently you have not caught up with the modern generation. I have done a lot of reading on this. What started me off on the subject was a talk with a guy who flushed a '69 Cougar 351cc with 230+ miles against a lot of negative advice. However, many do suggest dropping the oil pan after a flush.
What does the modern generation have to do with the opinion?
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Sorry but I don't have an estimate on shipping time. It is a small item that will probably be shipped by USPS Priority Mail.
Didn't realize it was an Amazon purchase before asking. 5 days. Thanks. Looks like it might be a universal tool and can be used for many applications.
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Thanks Ronnie. I'll order one of the tools off of your site. Looks like it will take 5 days for shipping.
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I have long thought that flushing an old engine is asking for trouble.
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I want to replace the pads on the '89. I saw the compression tool for sale on your site and the tutorial. I may be dumb, because I don't understand the explanation of how to use the tool. Thanks in advance.
How To Retract The Rear Brake Caliper Piston - Reatta Owners Journal
I NEED A NEW DOOR REGULATOR AND NOT AVAILABLE AT ADVANCE NAPA ETC
in Buick Reatta
Posted
Now you tell me. When I replaced mine a few months back, it was because the motor had actually fallen apart from the regulator. I also saw the spring was missing entirely ( from the previous owner's repair shop I presume ). While removing the spring from the donor regulator I had , it flew off ( stored energy theory ) and I felt a stinging on my right hand where the web is between the thumb and index finger on my left hand. When I looked down there was a major gash in the web, which allowed me to see the inner mechanical workings of that portion of my hand's anatomy. Yuck. Took 6 weeks to heal to the point of usefulness again. Be very careful.