waltmail
-
Posts
557 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by waltmail
-
-
The one I have used for years. Now all I get is a "database error" message and dead end. This is the only link that seems to work.
-
if you're referring to this one I don't think that's the issue
No. The rear door pillar, not the front. Back by the latch.
-
Apparently my door is also a jar. The switch that controls the interior lights works fine. I dont think its the switch in the handle. Where is the 3rd switch? How is it repaired/replaced?
There is a switch plunger on the rear pillar of the door jamb.
-
Click the Notifications icon in the header of the forum
When the dialog box opens click Options
When the My Settings pages opens click the My Notifications option (which is the last option in the left hand list)
When your Notification page opens you can then select (either individually or in bulk) the messages you would like to delete (the delete button will be at the bottom of the page)
Bob
Thank you. That worked.
-
Any way to dump those out of my "notification" folder? I have 71 of those in my folder.
-
What part of the country are you in?
-
Thanks. I shall pry some more.
You need to gently pry at the bottom of the switch slightly and then tilt the switch while pulling. There are a couple of small tabs at the top of the switch that engage the metal of the car jam but they are short and once you have the screw out, tilting the switch out is sufficient for those to clear. There is a rubber gasket between the switch and the door metal that likely is making it seem like the switch is firmly attached, but again, once the screw is out, just gently pry at the bottom of the switch. Once you get the switch out, you will need to pull on the wiring until you find the connector which is located 9" or so past the switch itself.
Okay successful extraction. They have only been in there since 1989. Pulled both sides and swapped them out. It's the switch. Now to find a replacement. Anyone have one for sale?
-
You need to gently pry at the bottom of the switch slightly and then tilt the switch while pulling. There are a couple of small tabs at the top of the switch that engage the metal of the car jam but they are short and once you have the screw out, tilting the switch out is sufficient for those to clear. There is a rubber gasket between the switch and the door metal that likely is making it seem like the switch is firmly attached, but again, once the screw is out, just gently pry at the bottom of the switch. Once you get the switch out, you will need to pull on the wiring until you find the connector which is located 9" or so past the switch itself.
Thanks. I shall pry some more.
-
There are 3 switches in each door. The one you can see at the front of the jam, one you can't see that detects door ajar status and one in the exterior door handle to detect when the handle is lifted. Each serves a specific purpose. NONE of them directly control ANYTHING! They are all inputs to the BCM which in turns controls the interior lights as well as door ajar messages
The door jam switch IS removable after removing a single screw.
Okay screw is out. Is there now a trick. It ain't coming out. I am sure to break it if I am missing something?
Passenger side switch works just fine. I can actually hear the relay when that door jamb switch is toggled and the lights work with that side.
-
Many years ago I attempted to tow or did tow my 89 coupe on a very good tow dolly. First of all the low hanging front would not clear the ramps. I attempted to tow it a short distance with the rear wheels on the ramps. That was disastrous. Never again.
-
On long trips , do you run it on high or lower? If it is a matter of the evaporator freezing over turn on the heater and see if the a/c eventually comes back. If it does come back it may be a freeze up. You weren't specific on the details of "not working".
-
An '89 with 40,000 miles might be the problem with any leaking. The system has a bunch of oil seal o rings. When the A/C is not used often enough, the O rings might dry up and flatten. This would cause system leaks.
-
There is an excellent chance that it will fit. The main concern is the height (will it hit the cross brace) and are the threads the same.....the company selling them would probably supply you with that information.
However, Spinningwheels.com (352-732-5013) has a unit that has been used by several Reatta owners and the price is around $150
http://spinningwheels-sc.com/hydacaccumulatorballs.aspx
HYDAC ACCUMULATOR BALLSAccuBallHYDAC ACCUMULATOR BALLSYour Price: TEMPORARILY OUT OF STOCK. GET ON OUR LIST SO WHEN THEY COME IN, YOURS WILL BE RESERVED.Out of stockQuantity:Detailed DescriptionFinally....the brand new 2015 Hydac accumulator ball. The accumulator ball is the most common problem with the ABS system. You may need this ball if your car has a hard pedal with no brakes or if everytime you depress the brake pedal the brake light and ABS light comes on and goes off, most likely it is the accumular ball. If you follow the directions regarding the discharged of the ABS system, it may take you only 10-20 minutes. Instructions are included.Here are some of the applications for this particular accumulator ball;
CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY,DODGE CARAVAN, PLYMOUTH VOYAGER, CHRYLSER FIFTH AVENUE,IMPERIAL, NEW YORKER, DODGE MONACO, JEEP CHEROKEE WAGONEER, PONTIAC GTE,
BUICK REGAL, OLDS CUTLASS, CUTLAS CIERA, POINTIAC GRAND PRIX,FORD THUNDERBIRD, MERCURY COUGAR XR7, LINCOLN MARK VII, CONTINENTAL, BUICK ELECTRA, LE SABRE, PARK AVE, BUICK RIVIERA, CADILLAC, OLDS 88, REGENCY ROYALE, PONTIAC BONNEVILLE, AND OTHERS. Sorry about the price increase. After 5 years of doing business, this is the first time they raised their price. Can't complain too much!...
-
Does not work for me. Anyone else?
-
Thank you for the info.
-
If I open the driver's door no cabin light illuminates. If I place tranny in gear with door open, warning pops up on screen. Wouldn't this indicate that the door jamb switch is operative? If I open the passenger door, the cabin overhead light turns on. Any ideas?
Does that swich just pop out of the pillar by prying or is there a trick. I do not want to force and break it.
P S my e mail instant notification does not work. Any ideas on that one?
-
Another feature to be aware of, but not PayPal's fault. Do not take a payment through them that the buyer uses an AmEx card on. Ask me about a $2800.00 hit I took. Specify no AmEx payments allowed. BTW, a PayPal customer service rep. explained the danger after the fact when I attempted to dispute the dispute. AmEx sucks.
-
I had the motor rebuilt. It is better but still needs major hand boost. Maybe my next step is to drop the assembly and attempt to lube the cable tunnels.
-
If you are reasonably handy, you can disassemble the motor and "tune" it up.
I find with Reatta headlight and antenna motors the main loss is at the brushes, lubrication is secondary.
After disassembly, clean the brushes (contact surface is most important) use WD-40, carb cleaner, or electrical cleaner.
Then clean the commutator on the armature ...... don't use carb cleaner on it as it might attack the insulation on the windings.
sand the surface with 200-400 grit paper, clean again after sanding.
Last, clean the gaps between the contacts on the commutator. and clean again.
Oil, grease and other contaminates will affect the performance of the motor when they get on the brush area.
Hey Barney, thanks. Trying to recall, which is becoming more difficult, when I drop the motor are the cables part of the motor ass'y or do they stay with the roof? I have a motor rebuilder 3 blocks from my shop and I could bring the motor to him. Want to do this before headliner goes back in.
-
Yup. The motor/roof is lazy. This a 2nd hand sunroof I purchased from an ex vendor. It was a Mazda RX7 unit. It installed and worked "fairly well" when I installed it. 2 -3 years later, it got lazy. I very rarely drive it. Going to service the motor as it pops free with just 3 screws. Local guy is very good at rebuild. He has done work for me in the past on other restoration products. I have not been able to find a replacement motor if necessary to be the solution.
-
A few years ago I purchased a recycled Mazda RX 7 sunroof ass'y complete from a once upon a time reseller source from this site. It fits just fine, but since my original panel was shot I used the Mazda/Wabasco. The difference is minimal. Something else I discovered was my misconception that the panel weatherstrip had to be "new" to prevent "leaking". Then I discovered the drain hoses took care of the "leak", so I cleaned up my old weatherstrip and used it,
Now I am at the point where my drive motor is weak and needs a major hand boost to slide the panel. Are there replacement motors or can they be refurbished. I have a local guy who does a bang up job on electric motors and wonder if it is worthwhile to let him have a go at it. Any thoughts. I want to take care of this before reinstalling my headliner.
BTW, I am having difficulty with "instant e mail notification" on replies. Any thoughts on this subject?
-
Buick unveiled a sports coupe concept car at the opening of the Detroit Auto Show. Wow.
2+2 Sports Coupe.
http://www.autoguide.com/auto-news/2016/01/buick-avista-concept-comes-dressed-to-impressed.html
-
Okay. The cabin roof lamp now works when the passenger side door opens. Not on the driver door.
-
I may be going down the wrong path. After disassembling most of the interior to make sunroof and headliner repairs, up[on reassembly I have no power to the sun visor lamps, overhead cabin light door panel lights, etc.
What happened to my AACA Reatta link?
in Buick Reatta
Posted
Thanks for the postings. Now I know I am not dumb (sorta) or being singled out.