waltmail
-
Posts
557 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by waltmail
-
-
2 weeks ago a buddy asked me to jump start his wife's car off of my Reatta. I regretfully refused, due to catastrophic events that can take place during this process. He was genuinely mad at me. We got a jump box and started it. 3 days ago he jumped the same vehicle, again, with his 2008 Ford van. Now he has a fried computer in the van. Coincidence?
-
By the way, if you want to attempt spraying starter fluid, spray it into the air filter box with the filter removed. Just spray it up the air duct tubing. Be careful.The best way to test for fuel delivery is to use a fuel pressure gauge at the appropriate test port on the fuel rail.
-
Simple spark test, if you have an extra spark plug laying around. Pull a plug wire from one of the front cylinders. Stick it on the uninstalled extra spark plug. Insulate yourself to avoid shock and have partner crank motor. You may have to ground the test plug to a metal surface, but you should hear the spark and see it if you have ignition. Be careful to avoid a jolt up your arm.
-
Beautiful weather here in Tennessee right now. Temps in the mid 70s.
The photo I took today says it all. Absolutely beautiful weather. My favorite time of year.
Nice wheels. What are they?
-
Maybe too late for you. But when I replaced the one on my now-sold '90 Regal, I just used an open end wrench on the oval area where the connector plugs in.
That worked for me.
-
errr which pressure switch, there are several ?
The rack & pinion pressure sensor. Got it finally. Driver's side of rack.
-
I see they have changed the design of these since I replaced mine. The wide metal part used to have a hex shape that the socket would fit on.
Now that part is round, with a smaller hex nut past it just above the screw threads.
Looks like your now supposed to use an open end wrench on the hex part coming in from the side. Hopefully you can find a space where you can get the wrench on it and turn it enough to loosen it up enough to spin off, and not bust your knuckles.
Guess the old style couldn't stand up to the torque being applied by the socket, and they redesigned it to make it more robust.
Finally got it. Top to bottom to top to bottom, back and forth and finally.
-
Been fighting this thing all day. No way does a deep socket fit over the switch and grab the hex head. Wonder if the plastic switch housing will hold up in one piece if I can get a socket on it. Anyone tried that? I definitely want to avoid dropping the rack. The switch is the source of my fluid leak.
-
Was remote key lock standard in '89? I am the 2nd owner of mine and never had a FOB.
-
I'm glad to hear the write up helped you. That is a really low price for the hub. Much better price than I have seen anywhere. What brand was it?
Timken # 513059. It was a close out special I bought about 4 months ago. Nice feature with Rock Auto is that once you purchase something vehicle specific, they send close out special notices through an e mail direct to you. I just bought 2 sets of Wagner brake pads for $ 2.68 each set.
-
Finally got around to replacing the passenger side hub. Used Ronnie's write up on the procedure and it was spot on. Didn't need the hub puller tool. The symptom was a groaning noise that went away when steered with left pressure. Got increasingly worse with time. Bought the part from Rock Auto for $38. Less than an hours worth of work. Make sure you have a T 55 Torx bit. Used a 1 3/8" socket for the axle nut. Took it for a test ride and the silence was sweet to my ears. Thanks for the write up Ronnie.
-
Yup. Got a buddy to turn steering wheel with motor running, and I spotted dripping from the top of the sensor. Ordered one through Rock Auto,. $22. Thanks for the tips.
-
Just wondering if power steering pressure switch is a common cause. Rack was replaced, by me, earlier this year along with hoses. Leak doesn't seem to be coming from connections on the rack, but the switch looks wet. It loses fluid quickly while running down the road. Is it very difficult to replace this switch with the rack in the car? Rock Auto has a replacement for $22.
-
So, I wonder what happened to the original poster? Curious as to what the problem was/is.
-
Walt, I don't see in my post where I said the balancer noise would go away by removing the belt. I believe I said it should change. I hope I'm not posting misleading information.
When my balancer went bad it did have a different sound with the belt off. It changed from a knocking sound to more of a rattle. Maybe I'm the only one to experience that. Have you tried removing the belt when you suspect a balancer being bad?
I see where you went with the original post. I misinterpreted the "noise change" part. I imagine there would be a change without the force from the belt tension bracket.
-
Remove the belt and start the engine. The sound should change if the balancer is at fault. Turn the engine off and you should be able to feel the outside (pulley) of the balance move around some if you pull on it from side to side. Balancers are available in The Reatta Store. Look in the Engine & Trans category.
Ronnie, if the harmonic balancer were bad I would think the noise would not change or would not go away with the serpentine belt removed. If it does go away without the belt, it is one of the driven components, IMHO.
-
Thank you. I figured 255 reading indicated a default "open".
-
Was working on the accessory tensioner bracket yesterday because one of the alternator mount bolts snapped off in the bracket ( don't know why ). Removed many items to get the bracket off so I could extract the broken bolt. Put it all back together, fired the motor up and the read out was 255#. Just wondering if this is an indicator that the pressure sensor is shot or an open connection.
-
Also, there doesn't seem to be a "stop" to the motor. When I open and close it the motor will run until I take my finger off, even when it's fully open or closed. Is that normal? thanks.
That is the same way my roof operates, so that would be normal for me.
-
My Black was low on brake fluid and the red light would come on and then go off. Added a bit more then later flushed system doing the LeSabre rear brake upgrade. Light has operated as should since the adding of fluid [the changing off the fluid had already bben on the list].
BTW low fluid in my case tripped the red light only, the amber light never came on [except for at start up, as it should].
You mentioned the LeSabre rear brake upgrade. What's that about? If you have a link, I like to read.
Never mind , I found it. http://forums.aaca.org/f116/rear-brake-upgrade-255362.html
-
I changed the tutorial on hub replacement sightly to make it clearer what the purpose of the puller is.
To break the axle loose from the hub I just screw the axle nut on the end of the axle so it will be flush with the end of the axle to protect the treads and bump the end of the axle with a large hammer. I've never needed to use the special puller. I don't say that in the tutorial because someone would end up messing the threads up on their axle or drive the axle into the transmission too far and blame me. In areas where corrosion and rust is a problem using the puller might be necessary to get the axle to break loose from the splines in the hub.
Thanks for the heads up, and thanks for the tutorial. I have used your tutorials for other projects and find them invaluable.
-
I am quite anxious to replace the front hub assembly on my '89. After reading the tutorial on Ronnie's site, I attempted to rent/borrow the puller tool, as mentioned in the tutorial. I have now been told by 4 different sources that since it is a bolt on item, the tool is not needed. Is this true?
-
Is this his/her insurance company or the other person's company?
-
Florida used to have a "collector" plat that was an ugly pale blue, white letters and numbers, and no logos/pictures. This was siscontinued in the last century (had on on my 78 Sunbird for a while so was for 20 year old cars)
Today the only "antique" plate is for cars 30 years old or more that are only used for parades and exhibitions. I just keep a regular plate on the Judge though there is a price break ($36/yr vs $70 for a 3800 lb car) for old cars.
I see plenty of those ugly robin's egg blue plates at classic car shows. I thought they still exist. I acquired a 1965 virgin Florida plate for my '65 Ranchero, years ago. Seems some one found a warehouse stacked with thousands of unassigned/unregistered Volusia county, FL tags. Soome guy acquired a bunch and was selling them for $25 at the Turkey Rod Run in Daytona. I never used it on the Ranchero, as it clashed with my paint job. They are still available from the Rod Run vendors. Lots of years available.
Fram PH3387
in Buick Reatta
Posted
Is the short filter used for ground clearance?